文|镜观台 付 饶

编辑|饶霞飞

huaijiulingshi，zhengbiandeyuelaiyuegui。

nanjingbanya、baxikaorou、tuofei、guodanpi、wuhuaguo......zheixiexiaoshihouyidaijiazhi5maoqiandelingshi，xianzairenxuan7jianjiuyaohuafei10yuan。zaimingmabiaojiadejiaqianmianqian，beipiaoduoniande90hounvhaimomojuede“guidaolipu”。

dangran，momobingbushiweiyiyigebeigaojialingshi“beici”deren。zaixiaohongshushang，bushaotanji#huaijiulingshi#debijili，yebansuizhe“youdiankeng”“bilei”“buhuasuan”“tianjialingshi”dengziyan。

jinguanwangshangyoubushaorenfachu“sheimaisheiyuan”dequangao，danjujingguantaiguancha，rengyourenyuanyiweizijideqinghuaihetongnianmaidan，erjindiandexiaofeiqunti，daduoyi90hou，shenzhi00houdenianqingrenweizhu。

这不足为奇。

2022nian，kelaoruijiucengzuoguoyigeguanyunianqingrenshenghuoxiaofeixiguandediaoyan。diaoyanshujuxianshi，you94.7%denianqingxiaofeizhehuiyinweihuaijiuxinqingergoumaixiaoshihoudelingshi、yinliao，ruguomaidaodeshipinhejiyizhongdeweidaozhonghe，shenzhihuizhangqifugou。

zhouhongjiushizhangqigoumaihuaijiuxiaolingshidexiaofeizhezhiyi。jinguanyishenweibaoma，dantatoulu，zhidaoxianzai，tahaihuijingchangmaixiaoshihouchiguodelingshi，zuiaichideliangyangjiushixiaohuanxionggancuimianhebaxikaorou（latiaodeyizhong），“zaiwojialouxiadeshequchaoshi，zheixiexiaoshihoudeweidaorengjiuzaimai，erqiezheimeduonian，weidaohaishimeibian。”

huaijiudetongnianweidaonengjirendailaigongming，yuelaiyueduonianqingrenxiwangtongguoshiwuxunqiushuxigan。genjujuliangsuanshuhe36keyanjiuyuanlianhezuodeyixiangdiaoyanshujuxianshi，huaijiuqinghuai、changshilaopaizidexinpinhekexinlaidepinzhi，chengweilexiaofeizhegoumailingshiyinliaozuizhongyaodesangequdongyinsu。

zheiyecuishenglehuaijiulingshidiandefazhan。

jinjinian，quanguobushaodifangfenfenkaiqilehuaijiulingshizhutidian。yibeijingweili，zuijin，weiyubeijingmoushangquandeb1ceng，yijiamingwei“laotianqiaolijibaihuo”dexindiankaiye，dianneiyishoumaihuaijiulingshi、yinliaoweizhu，shundaishoumaiboliqiu、dangong、shabao（yeyoudiqujiaozuokoudai）xiaoshihouchangjiandewanjudengchanpin，shengyifeichanghonghuo。

图/老天桥李记百货怀旧零食店，来源/2023年12月11日，镜观台拍摄于北京市朝阳区合生汇商场

ciwai，tongnianxiaomaipu、huiweitongnianshiguang、shiguangzahuopu、xiaoshihoudengduogehuaijiulingshipinpaijueqi，mendianshuliangzaizengzhangdetongshi，yezaibuduanzengqiang“cunzaigan”，bushizuoluozainanluoguxiangremenshangquanli，jiushikaizaileisidayuecheng、heshenghuizheizhongrenliuxirangdeshangchangli。

eryuanzaianhuihuainanshishouxiandewuzhangfu，zai3geyueqianyexiudaolehuaijiulingshidianzheigeshangji。rujinyijingkailejiamengdian，meigeyueyoukeliu、youliushuidetaqiangdiaodao，zheibujinshigelingshidian，yeshiyifenwendingdexiaomaimai。raner，youliuliang、youshouyidehuaijiulingshisaidao，bingbuxiangkanshangquneiyangyipiantantu。

yifangmian，huaijiulingshiyiduanshibeixiaofeizhegoubingdegaoangyijia，yiduanshiduijiagemingan、kouweitiaotide90houxiaofeiqunti，suiranerzhezaiduanshijianneikaozheqinghuaishixianle“shuangxiangbenfu”，danshikaoqinghuaidemaimaidaodinenggouzouduoyuan，rengshigeweizhishu。

lingyifangmian，lingshisaidaoqianjingyourendebeijingxia，bushaowanghonghuaijiulingshidianchangdaoleliuliangheshouyishuangfengshoudetiantou。zheiyeshideyuelaiyueduodazheqinghuaipaidepinpaijinru，qiechanpinpinleijieduojujiaoyushipin、yinliao，chanpintongzhihuajingzhengjilie。

yaoxiangnaxiaxiaofeizhedefangxin，zaiyizhongdingweixiangtong、chanpintongzhihuadejingzhenghuanjingxiatuoyingerchu，huaijiulingshidianjiuyaohuafeigengduodexinsi。

01 线下复苏

xianrujin，suizhexianxiahuaijiulingshidiandejueqi，beishichangsuo“taotai”delingshihewanju，fenfenzhonghuidazhongshiye。

yizoujintongnianxiaomaipu，momoganjuezijidetongnianhuilaile。

zaibeijingzhumingdakadibiao—guijie，momoouranzoujinlezheijiaxiaodian，zuoyouliangpaihuojiashang，mimimamabaimanlechongmantongnianhuiyidexiaolingshi。“zhenmeixiangdaohainengkandaomailisu、xiaopangxie、liukoushui、dawowotangzheixielingshi。”momoxiangdianzhugankaidao。

zhanzaihuojiaqian，momonazhekuangtiaoxuanlehenjiu，dianlidabufenlingshidoushuyu“10yuan7jian”yidang，keyisuiyijinxingzuhedapei。zailinlangmanmudelingshijushang，momokandaolebaokuoguaishoutang、ccledengtangguo，yijichihuodalapian、shendiaoxialvdengyouzhashipin。

图/店内商品陈列及价格，来源/2023年12月11日，镜观台拍摄于北京市东城区簋街童年小卖铺

“suizhenianlingdezengzhang，woyijinghenjiumeiyouchiguozheizhongmeimingqidexiaochile。yigeshiweilejiankangdanyou，guoqujinianzaitingguo‘zheizhongshipinshiyongdigouyongzuode’chuanyanhou，bianmeiyouzaichiguozheizhongyouzhalingshile。zaiqie，woxianzaideyinshigengpianxiangshaoyou、shaotang，suoyiyebuhuiteyimailaizheizhonglingshichi。”momoshuodao。

momoshidongbeiren，yirenbeipiaoduonian，congxiaoyiqizhangdadepengyoudouliuzailelaojiadongbei，zhinengouerzaiweixinshanghefaxiaomenbaochizhebuxianbudandelianxi，pingshijianshangyimiandounan。ranerzaikandaoduodou、suanjiao、dabaitudenglingshihou，yixiazibatalahuilexiaoshihou，xiangqileyiqizhangdadefaxiao。jinguanjuedejiaqianyouxiegui，lingshiyebugoujiankang，danmomohaishichuyuhuaijiuxinli，zuihouhaishitiaoxuanle7yanglingshi，xingfendipailezhangzhaopianfajilefaxiao。zaizhenjing“zheixielingshijingranhaizaimai”zhiyu，yezaigankaihuaijiulingshidewujiayuelaiyuegui。

beixianxiahuaijiuzhutidianfuhuode，buzhishixiangmomozheizhong“xianghuiyitongnian”dexiaofeizhe，haiyouxianggangshangchusandetatazheizhonggengnianqingdequnti，danchunshixiangchanggexian，“youhenduolingshihewanjuzhiqianconglaimeijianguo，yebuzhidaochangqilaizenmeyang，mailaichangshiyixia。”

xianran，huaijiulingshibuguangshoudaolaoyipizhongshifensidezhuipeng，yeyoukuodadaogengnianqingshouzhongquntidequshi。

chucizhiwai，xiaofeizheyenengmingxianganshoudaoxianxiadehuaijiulingshishengyizhengzaifusu。“zhiqian，wozhinengzaitaobaoshangmaidaozheixiehuaijiulingshi，meixiangdaonengkandaoxianxiashitidianyeyoushoumai。”bailingshuodao。

zaitaobao，sousuohuaijiulingshi，yikuanmimixiatiaodeyuexiaoshoulianggaoda9wanjian，xiaodangjiagancuimianyeyouyuexiao5wanduodandechengji。bushaogukezaipinglunlijunjichuhaoping，shuozheixielingshirangtamenzhaodaoletongniandeweidao。erzaijinnian，huaijiushengyibuzhizaixianshanghonghuo，zaixianxiayanranyechengleyimen“haoshengyi”。

zaibushaodiqu，huaijiuzhutidelingshidianpinxian。yilanzhouweili，jin“xiaoshihou”yijiapinpai，jiukaileyou5jiamendian，jiezairemenshangquan。erzaibeijingheqitadiqu，leisimendianyezaijueqi。

02 成投资风口？

shangjiaminruidiganshoudaolexiaofeizhedereqing。

guolinglingshi”tongnianhuaijiu“lingshidianjiamengzongbudeyuangong，fuzemendianjiamengzixunyewu。

juguolinglingjieshao，“tongnianhuaijiu”pinpaixianyijingfazhancheng500duojiamendian，100duojiazhiyingmendian，cong2018niankaifangjiamengmoshikaishi，daoxianzaiyiyou300duojiajiamengdian。tongshi，taxiangjingguantaitoulu，zuijinyoubushaorenkanzhonghuaijiulingshizheigefengkou，xiangtazixunhuaijiulingshidianjiamengxiangguanshiqing。jiamengfangshijiandan、lirungao、touzihuibaozhouqiduan、zidailiuliangdouchengweibushaorentouzijiamenghuaijiulingshishengyideyuanyin，wuzhangfujiushijiamengshangqizhongzhiyi。

zaishanghaiyijinggongzuojiejin20geniantou，congshihunqingxiangguangongzuodewuzhangfu，yizhiyougemengxiang，jiushixiwangnenghuilaojiayouyifenzijideshiye，buyongzaijibierendagong。

buguo，kanzhun“huaijiulingshi”shengyidewuzhangfu，bingmeiyouxuanzemaorantouzi，“wodangchuzhisuoyijuedingkailingshidedian，jiushikanzhonglehuaijiulingshimendianmenkouyoulailaihuihuideguke，jinguanduoshurenzhishijinqukangerenao，danxiangbiyuzhouweiqitalengqingdedianlaishuo，qimabaozhenglekeliu。”

zaiwuzhangfujuedingkaidiyijiadianqian，tadunshouguojijiatongshilingshixingyedemendian，“zheixinghaobuhaozuo，jiuzaimendiandunshouguancha10tian、bangeyue，shenzhiyigeyue，quguanchakeliu，dagaigusuanyixiakeliulianghekedanjia，zaiqujuedingyaobuyaotouzi。”

wuzhangfupaoleshijijiamendian，zheishitapanduanlingshishengyinengbunengzuodejichu。“yinweibuyidingmeijiadiandeshengyidouhao，danruguomeijiadianshengyidouhao，zheigexingyejiukeyizuo。”

jinguankaidiancai3geyue，wuzhangfuzaitasuozaidexiaoxianchengkaishedelingshidian，renliuliangyizhihenduo。“xuanzehelidedianpuweizhiyehenzhongyao，haodeweizhibaozhengkeliu，jiunenggoubaozhengyingshou。”wuzhangfupingriyingyeehaibusuanwending，haodeshihoukedashangqianyuan，meifengjierihuozhezhoumozegenghao。

图/吴长福开的“童年怀旧”门店，来源/吴长福供图

zheiyangdeyingyeesuiranbibushangyierxianchengshi，danwuzhangfugandaohenzhizu。danyucitongshi，xiangwuzhangfuzheiyangkanzhunlingshisaidaoderenbuzaishaoshu。

zaiwuzhangfusuokaimendiande3gonglifanweinei，jieliankaileliangjiahuaijiulingshizhutidedian。

xinkaideliangjiamendian，meijiademianjihewuzhangfujiayiyang，douzai50-60ping（fangmi）zuoyou。dianpuzhuangxiudefenggezhengtidoubijiaoxiangjin，chengxianhuaijiufeng。haozaiwuzhangfudedianli，youerbadagangzixingche、heibaidianshiji、huaijiushouyinjihuaijiulaowujiandenglaowujianbangzhudianlixiyinlebushaokeliu。

duibiqitaliangjia，“womenyou2000+sku，erqiemeinianhaizaibuduantuichuxinchanpin。”wuzhangfubaochileguantaidu。tongshitajianxin，“lingshisaidaohaichuyushichanghongliqi，jishiyoujingzhengduishoucunzai，womenyenengqudeyidingdeshichangfene，fendeyibeigeng。”

03 仍有不少困境

jinguanfanmaitongnianlingshichenglexuduowanghongdianpudecaifumima，huaijiulingshishangdianyemianlinbushaokunjing。zaixiaofeizhezheiyiduan，tongnianlingshiyijiayanzhongdexianxiangzhengzaiyinqibushaoxiaofeizhedefangan。

zaiguizhoushangdaxuedeyangyangjiushiqizhongzhiyi，“yinxiangli，lingshi‘niuyangpei’‘hupopaixiaomiguoba’doushi5maoqianyibao，xiaoshihouyiweizhangdanengtiantianchi，danxianzaiyixiaobaojiuyao5yuan，taikengle。”jibianshizaiguiyangqingyunshijizheizhongteseshangyejiequli，yangyangyebiaoshiwufajieshouzheimeguidelingshi。

zaishejiaopingtaishang，bushaorutongyangyangyiyangdexiaofeizhebeijiagequantui，guanyuhuaijiulingshidian“maiqinghuai，gejiucai”detucaocengchubuqiong。

raner，huaijiulingshidianbuguangyaomianlin”ruhewanhuixiaofeizhe“zheiyigenanti。

shijishang，huaijiulingshidianpubianjinruletongzhihuajingzheng。

jibianshizaishouxianzheiyangdexiaoxiancheng，huaijiulingshidiandejingzhengyetongyangjilie。weiyushouchunhuanqiugangdeshangyejieli，chulewuzhangfudemendian，haiyouliangjiafenbiemingwei“nihao，tongnian”、“xiaoshihou”tongyangzuohuaijiulingshishengyide2gepinpaimendian，youshibudebukaopindijialaiqiangduoxiaofeizhe。

“tongyangshi80、90niandaihuaijiufenggedezhuangxiu，chanpindepinleidoushilingshiyinliao、wanju、shougongyipinjidalei，youdeshihoujiubudebubeipojuanrujiagezhan。”wuzhangfushuodao。

“jianlibao、xuriqing、zhenzhendengyinliaozaiwodedianlishoujia5yuan，ranerqitaliangjiadiananzhao2.4yuandejinjiamai，xiaofeizheziranhuibeilingwailiangjiamendianxiyin，shoutamenyingxiang，weilenengliuzhuxiaofeizhe，wobudebuxiangzonggongsishenqing，jiangbufenchanpinjinxingjiagexiadiao。”wuzhangfuzaitanleyikouqihou，wunaibiaoshi。jinjinian，lingshisaidaoshichangqianjingguangkuo，xingyexinlaoduishoudouzaiweiqiangduogengduoshichangernuli。

juaimeizixunfabude《2023-2024nianzhongguoxiuxianshipinchanyexianzhuangjixiaofeixingweishujuyanjiubaogao》xianshi，cong2010niandao2022nian，zhongguoxiuxianshipinxingyeshichangguimochixuzengzhang，cong4100yiyuanzengzhangzhi11654yiyuan，yuji2027nianzhongguoxiuxianshipinxingyeshichangguimoda12378yiyuan。

zaicibeijingxia，xinpinpaiwanjiadouzaijimangpaomaquandi。

fangyanquanguolingshisaidaopinpai，xinwanjiarulingshihenmangzai2023nianyinianneijiuxinzeng2000jiamendian。zhaoyimingdekuozhangsudutongyangjingren，jinnian8yuedao10yuejinlianggeyueshijian，mendiancong2200jiazengzhi2500jia。

muqian，zheiliangjiapinpaidemendianzongshuyichaoguo6500jia，jiashangchuanyuguilingshiyouming、ailingshi、haoxianglai，haotemaidenglingshiliangfanpinpai，zhenggesaidaodedianpushuliangzaoyitupowanjiadaguan。weileyingheyuelaiyueduoxiaofeizhedehuaijiuqinghuai，jinnianlaibushaolaopinpaiyezaijijiqiubian，rangxiaofeizheyougengduodexuanze。ruxiaofeizheshuxideahuatian、jianlibao、dayao、weilong、dabaitudenglingshiyinliaopinpai，jiadayingxiaolidu，huotongguoxianyoudechanpinwajuexindeshiyongchangjing，manzuyufatiaotidenianqingquntideduoyanghuaxuqiu。

zheiqizhong，yeyoubushaowanjiarushanghaojia，tuichulezhuliushichangwutai。“shanghaojiashichangdingweicuowei、cuoshizhongguohulianwangfazhanhongli、chanpingengxinzhihoucaishibeixiaofeizhemanmanyiwangdezhuyin。”lingshouyefenxishiwangyuanbiaoshi。

jingzhunshichangdingwei、jinwofazhanhongli、gengxinlaohuachanpin…renheyijiapinpaiyaoxiangzairiqujiliedeshichangjingzhengzhong“tuoyingerchu”，doubixufanyuezheisanzuodashan。

wuyi，zaiyingxiaohechanpinriqutongzhihuadedangxia，yi“huaijiu”weizhutideyingxiaofangshibuzaixinxian，suiranhuodeleyishideliulianghehongli，danzhikaoqinghuaizhichengdeshengyi，kenengzhangyuanbule。

duiyu“wuzhangfumen”laishuo，huaijiulingshidianyaoxiangfazhandezhangyuan，bunengzhidingzheyanqiandeqinghuai，lianghaodepinzhi、gongdaodejiagecaishizhangjiuzhidao。

*文中默默、周红、吴长福、塔塔、白灵、羊羊、郭玲玲皆为化名。