wen|meirirenwushe liqingyang
编辑|Yang
运营|泡芙
互联网上,关于中产男性的“三宝”,最广为流传的版本是:钓鱼、茅台、始祖鸟。但在最近几年,始祖鸟在男性心中的地位却被另一家运动品牌牢牢盯上——lululemon。
看上同一群人
“chuanshanglulu,xiabankeyizhibenjianshenfang。“zhongfanjinnian31sui,zaibeijingmouhulianwangdachanggongzuo。tashourubufei,zaibeijingyoufang,pingrixihuanjianshen,danyouyutongqinyifuhejianshenfangbujianrong,“youshiyixiangdaoyaohuanyifu,jiushiquleyibandejianshenyuwang”。lululemonyidingchengdushangjiejueletadefannao。tamailesanjianlululemondetxu,xiabanqujianshen,jibenbuyonghuanyifu,“zuiduozhixuyaohuanyishuangxie”。
tadegongzuoshichangyaocongbeijingfeiguangzhoushanghaichucha。nanfangchengshishihetouqixingqiangdeyifu,“shouxuanlululemondetxuhekuzi,chuanzhefeichangshufu”。danwaitaoyidingyaoshiqingbianyounengzhangxianjiazhigandeshizuniao,“youshihouchuchasansitian,xinglixiangdoubuyongdai”。
hulianwangshang,guanyuzhongchannanxingde“sanbao”,zuiguangweiliuchuandebanbenshi:diaoyu、maotai、shizuniao。danzaizuijinjinian,shizuniaozainanxingxinzhongdediweiquebeilingyijiayundongpinpailaolaodingshang——lululemon。
lululemonzhunei,shizuniaozhuwai。weilechishangnanxingshichangzheikuai“dadangao”,lululemonjizijizhaodaoderuchangquanshi——shushididiao,nengduochangjingshiyong。
shizuniaokaochongfengyichuquan,chengweizhongniannanxing“zuihaodeyimei”。kaoyujiakudakainvxingshichangdelululemon,zeyanxuletazuishanzhangdebufen——tuichuleabcnanku,shitucongxiabanshen“gongzhan”nanrenmendexin。lululemondechuangshirenqipu·weierxuncengjingxiangjiangzheitiaokuzimingmingwei“bushanggennanku”,yizhengmingtadeshushixingheziyoudu。
jinnian79suidehouyuyong,diyicizoujinlululemondedianpu,shinverhouyandaiqude。taduikuzideyaoqiushi:“buneimeyundongfeng,fuherichangchuanzhede,koudaishen,keyifanghenduodongxi。”zhijin,tayijingmailesitiaoabckuzi。
congyitiaokuzi“rukeng”,daoyijuliguamanlululemon,nanxingmenhaiyouyitiaozhongyaodefugouyuanyinshi——lululemondelogozugouxiao,tamentongchangbeixiuzaikuzidebianyuan,susetxushanggengshizhijiemeiyou。
▲ lululemon的logo被绣在裤子的边缘。图 / lululemon官网截图
zaibeijingcongshijinrongxingyedegujun,yijingmailesansishijianlululemon。yizhiyilai,tadoubuxihuanlogoxianyandeyifu,piruyidagouweibiaozhidenaike,tashenshaoguanggu,“buxihuantongguologoxuanyaoshenme,yebuxiangjilogozuoguanggao”。yinci,zhudongzangqilogodelululemongewaishoutaqinglai。
yugujunyiyang,zaishanghaishangyedichangongzuodehuangyuanlinyehenxinshanglululemondidiaodelogobiaoshi。tabazheidianguijieyutasuochudexingye,“wozhoubianderendouhuixuanzelogomeiyouneimeqiangdeyixiepinpai”。logotaidarangtajuede“tuqi”,tagengkanzhongxijieshangdesheji,biruzhuanzuohuwaifengyuyipinpaibarbour,“waimiankanqilaiyansedanyi,dandangnilakailaliankenenghuifaxianlimianyouqianniaogegewen。”
▲ Barbour户外风雨衣外面看似单一,但内里有千鸟格纹。图 / Barbour官网截图
didiao,shizhongchannanxingmendegongtongdezhuiqiu。buguo,ruguonengzaididiaodetongshi,bujingyidizhanshichushenfenhepinweijiangshi“jinshangtianhua”。
zhongfansuozaidedachang,meidaoshiyichuanchongfengyidechunqiujijie,bangongshiyijiashang,“shijianyifuliyousandaosijianshiniao”。
dachangzhiwai,guoqihetizhineiyeshi“niao”dejujidi。shenghuozaishanghaidehouyuyonghuanyouxinxueguanjichubing,changyaopaoyiyuan。youshihougandezao,conghuanzhetingchedeb3cengzuodiantishangqu,zaidiantilipengdaob2cengganlaishangbandeyisheng,“tamendexiezi、beibao、waitao,yiyankanguoquhaoduoshizuniao”。
rutongxingbakeyongyibeikafeiweizhongchanmendazaochu“gaojibailing,guozhexiaozishenghuo”dexiangzheng,zaihuwaiyundongyuranchengfengdedangxia,yongyouyijianshizuniao,jiuchengweilezhanshicaifu、zhuanyeshuipingdeshenfenzhangxian。shejiaomeitishang,biqitaolunmianliaodefangshuixing,shaichuyizhangchuanzheshizuniaobuyongdasandeyuzhongtu,gengyouhuatidu。
zaihouyankanlai,shizuniaojibuxiangshechipinneiyang“guoyuxianfu”,youjubeiyidingdeshenjia,“keyiwushengdixianshishenfenshangdemouxiedongxi”。huangyuanlinhuituijianba“niao”zuoweisongjifumudeliwu,“fumutuixiuzhihouchuqulvyou,youyijianshizuniaochuanzaishenshang,mianzizongshiyouguangde。”
duonianjingying,shizuniaoyijingchenggongbianchengyizhongshenfenbiaoqian,daibiaozheshenmei,xiaofeinenglihejiejishuxingdeduozhongkending,chengweimouzhong“tongxingzheng”yiyangdecunzai。zheijianshi,lululemonzainvxingshenshangyezuodaoguo,shenzhiyouyuyingxiaodetaiguoshenrurenxin,fanerchengweixuduonanrenmengoumaishidegulv。
zhongfanxinlijiuhenkangju“yishenlululemon”。jinguantahenrentonglululemondeshushixing,“txudangshuiyichuandouxing”,quetongshirenwei,“quanshenlulurongyiyinqiwuhui”。
youqizaixianxia,chulenanzhuangdedulimendian,lululemondianpudezhengtisheji、zhuanghuangdougengxiangnvxingkaolong。zhudamingmeiwenrou,haibanzhesisilvlvtuosikanachengxiangfendeduteweidao。
houyuyongdenverhouyanjide,tachangdaifuqinguangdelululemonshanghaixintiandidian,nanzhuangdequyuweiyunvzhuangdejintou,yunvzhuangdefujianrutousheng、fagubaizaiyichu,jiashangsichunengwendaodexiangwei,“xingbiequgeqishihenmohu。”
zaizhongfanxinli,shizuniaodailaidejiazhirentongbujinjiyutaangguidejiage,yejiyutaqiangdadehuwaigongnengxing,“chuanshangjiuxiandedong。”erlululemondexingnenghepinzhimeiyougengduodebuketidaixing。
suoyi,jishishizuniaozaijiageshang,bilululemonzhengtigaochuyigedangci,nanrenmenhaishigengyuanyiwei“tongxingzheng”huashangyibiqian。
高质量男性,是新的流量密码吗?
lululemondeshouxinanzhuangshejishishizheiyangmiaoshutamendemubiaonanxingkehude:“tayoupinwei、gongzuonuli,qiechongmanyoumogan。tashiyigefengfuderen,jikeyichengweinidepengyou,yerangnidemeimeixiangyaojiajita。”zheiyangdexingrong,henrongyilingrenlianxiangdaobeichengzuo“gaozhiliangnanxing”dequnti。
“gaozhiliangnanxing”bujinzhixianggenggaodexiaofeishuiping,gengzhongyaodeshiyongyougengsongchihezizaideshenghuotaidu。youqian、youxian、youaihao,shitamendebiaopei。
zheiqunrenshilululemonheshizuniaozhengqiangdehexinrenqun。yeshitamenxiangjisuoyougoumaizijipinpaiyifudenanxing,yingzaochudefenweigan——yongyouyijianshizuniaohuozhelululemon,shinimairu“gaozhiliangnanxing”quntidezuidimenjian。
zaijinianqian,zheiyitaohuoxuhaiyouyong。danrujinzheigexingjiabiweiwangdeshidai,zijinengbunengchengwei“gaozhiliangnanxing”yijingbuzhongyaole,qianshibushi“gaozhiliang”dihuachuqu,caishizuiyaojinde。
tangnishiyijia4agongsideshejizongjian,richangreaiyundong,shiguangzhoudingjijianshenfangdechangke。diyicijiechulululemonzhihou,tangnicengshituxunzhaopingti。tamaiguohaochengshilululemondaigongchangdekuzi,danjiaweiyezailiangsanbai,shangshenxiaoguoburulululemonhaochuanhaokan。jinguanruci,biqiqiziyinianfugouliuqitiaokuzi,maixuduojiantxu,tamailululemonrengranshilizhierkezhide,baozhengyundong、tongqin、shangwudouyoukuzikeyichuanjiuzugoule。
napashirezhongchuandadenanxing,duilululemondezhongchengduyeyaodagewenhao。zhongfanpingrixihuanchuanda,maiyifujianjupaizihexingjiabi。duinengdailaishenfenfujiazhidedapai,ruaries、lvdedanpin,tahuidundazhe、taozhonggu、zhaodaigou。tadediyijianshizuniao,shiquhanguolvxingshigourude。yinweitingshuo“shizuniaozairihandejiageshiquanqiudiershihui”,caitedianpaileyizhanguangshizuniaoqijiandiandexingcheng。
shengxiagongnengxingjiazhigaodepinpai,biruyizhousangujianshenfangshi,yinshiyongpinfan,xiaohaoda,liangsanbaiyijiandenaikeheadidasibidongzheshangqiandelululemongengdazhonghuasuan,“quanshenpeiqilululemonhaishiyoudianshechile”。
gujunjiechulululemondeshijianchaoguowunian,huadaqiandunhuodeshihou,douyaodenglululemondazhedacu“yijiantongxiliedekuziyicixingmaisansitiaobutongyanse”。
xiaofeilingyuyizhiliuchuanzheyijuhua,“xiaofeinenglicongdadaoxiaopaixing,fenbieshinvren、xiaohai、laoren、gouhenanren。”yourenjiecidiaokan,“nanxingdexiaofeiligoudouburu。”zhidao2023nianshuang11,nanxingdexiaofeilicaichaoguochongwuyongpin,baituolediandidemingyun。
huanjuhuashuo,xiangqiaodongnanxingdexiaofei,bingbushiyijianyishi。biqinvxingduoyanghuadexiaofeixuqiu,nanxingdexiaofeixinyuangengweiposu,“yinianguangyici,yicimaiyinian”。
▲ 男性的消费心愿是“一年逛一次,一次买一年”。图 / 《囚徒》
houyuyongmeigezhoumoleidabudonghuiqugongyuanyulaopengyouhecha,tachuanzhelululemondekuzi,changbeihaoyoukua“laoyoufan”。wenqipaizi,yitingjiage,yaohua1000yuanmaiyitiaokuzi,“likejiuyaotoule”。
zainverhouyanxinli,neixieshushubobobingfeimeiyou1000yuandexiaofeinengli,danzaitamenderenzhili,weiyitiaokuzizuiduoyejiuhualiangsanbai,erzheigejiagequjiandaibiaodepaizixuanzeshiyouyiku。
“中产”标签是怎么贴上的?
jiuzaijinianqian,shizuniaohaishiyigehuwaiquanzilidexiaozhongpinpai。zaichengweizhengxiangqianggoudezhongchanshishangdanpinzhiqian,shenzhihaichadianzoushangyuqiyongzuobiaozhideshizuniaoyiyangde“miejuedaolu”。qimugongsiyamafentiyucengyidushiadidasideleizhui,binlindaobi。
2018nian,antashougouleshizuniaodemugongsiamer sport。congci,shizuniaokaishifeishangzhitoubian“fenghuang”。antazhizaoleshizuniaozuowei“yunshe”degainian,yisishiyundongshechipin。danfankaidian,shizuniaoyidingmiaozhunshechipinzhaduidedifang,xiangshishizuniaoaerfazhongxin,jiuweiyushanghaidehuaihailu,yuaimashigejiexiangwang,pilintiffany。jiezhe,zaitongguoduokuanpinpailianming,chaoliumingxingchuanda,shejiaopingtaizhongcao,yibubuqiangzhannianqingrendezhuyili。
lululemonzaigongzhannanxingshichangshi,jihuxuanzeleyiyangdedaolu。
weileniuzhuanpianxiangnvxingdeguyouyinxiang,zaichanpinqizhilijiarugengduonanxingqinglaidebufen,butaiqianyuedaiyanrendelululemonqianxialeyanyuandouxiaohezhongguoshouweif1saicheshouzhouguanyuzuoweipinpaidashi,jiangxiyinnanxingxiaofeizhedexiwangjituozaibenshenyongyoubushaonanxingyongdundesaicheyundongyuanshenshang。
▲ Lululemon签下了演员窦骁。图 / 微博截图
zhongfanhuiyi,qianjiniankandaodelululemonqijiandianlideguanggao,xuanyongdedaduoshi“bainenjingzhi”demote。xianzailiulanshi,nenggandaozaimotexuanrenshangwangyanggangfangxianggaibian,chuxianlepingtou、wenshendengyuansu。jinnian2yue,lululemonzaibeijingyidigangkaichudiyijiananzhuangdiandedangtian,babeijingnengshudeshangmingzide,congyujiadaotuankegegelingyudejianshendarendouzhaoleguolai,weikaidianlarenqi。
zainanzhuangchanpinxianshang,lululemonyebuyiyulidibuquan、tuozhan。zheijinian,huangyuanlinfaxiandianneifushicongzhudayujiaxiangguan,chuxianlewangqiu、nanshigaoerfu、tubudengnanshixihaodepinlei。suiranlululemonbingmeiyouduicizuoguozhuanmendetuiguang,danzouzaishangbanlushang,shibushinengyudaotayiyangbeilululemonjianshenbaodenanxing,“yiqianshimeiyoude”。
yizhiyilai,xieleichanpinzainanxingxinzhongjuyoubukehandongdezhongyaoxing。jinnian2yue,lululemonxuanbuzhengshituichushougenanshixielvxilie,baokuocityverse yundongxiuxianxiehebeyondfeelpaoxie。zheiyiweizhe,lululemonbuquanlenanzhuangchanpinxianshangdezuihouyikuaipintu。
▲ lululemon推出的cityverse 运动休闲鞋。图 / lululemon官网
shangjiazhihou,huangyuanlinkanguoxuanchuantu,“shejideyoudianxiangnvxie,meiyoukejidezhuanyexing,yemeiyouhuanbaoxing”,pingjiaweipuputongtong,meiyourangtaranqiqudianneiyishideyuanwang。
zhongfandaoshiqudianneishiguo,“zhengtipiandexunxiexilie,shangjiaohenshufu,keyijianshenchuan,yekeyishangbanchuan。”danshi,zhongfanzuizhongmeiyoumaixia,“xingjiabibugao,taiguile”。
dingjia,shizhongshilululemonraobukaide“quexian”。muqian,zuishouhuanyingdeabckuzishoujiawei1080yuan。chucizhiwai,yundongbeixinpubianzai400dao500yuan,banlalianweiyijiagezezai1000yuanzuoyou。xiangyaoyishenlululemonzhuangbei,zhishaoxuyaoshuqianyuan。
xiangshangbi,shishizuniao5000yuanqibudechongfengyi,anggui,danshinengjinanrenmendailaigenggaodeshenfenguishugan。xiangxiabi,junjia200yuandeyouyikuxianrangengyouxingjiabi。lululemonjiazaidangzhong,zuoyouweinan。
zhisuoyixiangzainanzhuangpideyifentiandi,yuanyinshilululemonzhuyaodechanpinxian“yujiaku”yongruleyuelaiyueduodejingzhengzhe。qianyoushizuniaohuanshangcengzailululemondailewuniandexinrenceo,nulixiyinnvxingyonghu;houyounaikeheliningdouzailuxutuichuyujiaxilie,youyingxiaodiguozhichengdeantagengshizai2023nianshougoulebentuyujiafupinpaimaia active。
mianduiqunxionghuansidenvzhuangshichang,lululemonjixuzhaodaodierzengzhangquxian,nanzhuangchengweitashituzouchudexinlu。danmuqianlaikan,lululemondexinluzoudebusuanshunchang。2023cainian,qinanzhuangyewuquannianzengzhanglvwei15%,tongbizengsuyousuoxiajiang。lululemonshouxizhixingguancalvin mcdonald tanyan:“womenqueshikandaonanxingkerenzaifuzhuangheyundongxiaofeifangmianyousuotuisuo。”
faguozuojialuolan·batecengzai《liuxingtixi》yishuzhichu,dazhongchuanmeishishikekesuoyingzaochude“liuxing”fengchao,daduoshushihouzhishiyunyongxiuciyijiwenzibenshendemeili,“quzhizaogezhonglingrenjingtandehuanmeng,lingdazhongyiyujieshou,bingchenmiyuqizhong。”
tangnijiechuhuwaideshihou,xuduohuwaipaizihaimeiyouzaiguoneihuoqilai。zuichutamaizhuanzuohuwaidesaluomenghehoka,doushijiyudengshanyueyedehuwaixuqiu,jieguochuquandahuozhihou,jiageshuizhangchuangao。tangnijide,tadiyishuangsaluomeng,sannianqianmaideshihoushi400duoyuan,rujinyifanzaifan,qizizuijinmaideyishuangxt6yao1600yuancainengnaxia,congsanweishujiudaihuijiayueshengweiyiqianyuancaikankanrumen,rangtahenshiyumen。
daiyouzhongchanbiaoqiandedongxikaishirangtafangan。tahuansuanlexia,chongfengyikeyimanzujichuxuqiudeqingkuangxia,yijianshizuniaokeyihuanwuliujiandikanong,“neijiumeibiyaomaile”。
tajihuazhequribenchuchadeshihouquhuwaichanpindiankankangengyouxingjiabi、kejihanlianggenggaodexinhuo,“meibanfa,xianzaiguoneishaoweihaoyidiandeyixiayougaoguile。”
zhiyulululemon,“tadexie,woshijueduibuhuikaolvde。”
(据受访者要求,除侯堉镛外,其他人为化名)
参考文章
[1]《杀疯了的始祖鸟,正在收割县城土豪》. 傮值
[2]《卖瑜伽服年收入40亿美元,万字长文解读lululemon增长历程》. GymSquare编辑部
[3]《哪些中国男性在买lululemon?》.SOOZY塑最
[4]《后Gorpcore时代,始祖鸟如何引领“运奢品牌”迅速崛起?》.DIGIN
[5]《始祖鸟,卖给每一位渴望成为中产的年轻人 》.刺猬公社
[6]《lululemon围猎中产男》.市界
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