文|真故研究室 龚 正

编辑|马路

2010nian，zaizhongguogongyuanlihaimeibiandikaihuadegezibushang，laizimoxigedeniuyouguoyikaishipinfandishangzhuo，suiranbushirenrendouzhongyitadeweidao，danneishixinyidaiyiqifengfadexinfurenqun，nuliguoshangzhongchanshenghuodexiangzheng。

rujin，niuyouguobuzaishiweiyidecwei，chelizi、liulian、lanmeilunfanchengweizuoshangbin。shangjiafenfenjiangtamenguanyi“chaojishuiguo”dehualitouxian，bingningchuyanzhi、yangsheng、kangshuaidengzhijirenxindemaidian。buguo，heqianshinianrenmenyigoumaigengguishuiguoweirongdeshidaixiangbi，rujindazhongzaishenfenbiaoqianshangbiandewushi，zaishuiguoxiaofeishang，yekaiqilingyizhongkoumenmoshi——keaideshuiguokeyijiangjia，danbunengjiangge。

#01、中国人餐桌，流转的超级水果

chaojishuiguo，yingwenxiezuosuper fruit，gainianqiyuanyu2004niandemeiguo，suihoukuosanzhiribenyuouzhou。tadehexinyaosuzhiyishi“gaoangderenqidaidongxunmengdexiaofei”。

zaizhongguorendecanzhuoshang，chaojishuiguoshijinlaidegainian，yiqianrenmendingduobatachengweitutechan。danmeiyidairenxinzhong，queshidouyouzijideshuiguojiyi。

1980nian3yue8ri，beijingjichang。

shinian32suideyangjie，haishiguojiapingguogongchengjishuyanjiuzhongxinyiweinianqingdeyanjiuyuan。zheitian，tahetadeyantaiguoshushiyanzhantongshiyiqilaidaobeijingjichang，yingjienongyebuhualeyibi12542meiyuandejukuan、congribenyinjindepingguoyouliangpinzhong——hongfushi（1939nianpeiyu），yigong2100zhuchengmiaohe21000tiaojiesui。

zheixiechengmiaoyigongfenfajileshandong、liaoning、henan、beijing、shanxi、hebeideng6gepingguochanqu。dangdakaimuxiangwaibaozhuangshi，yangjiefaxianchuanshuozhongdehongfushimiao，jiumaizaitianchongdezhixiedangzhong，genxiganzao。

yangjielianmangjimiaomusashui，nongyebudetongshizaiyipangbiaoyang：“nikankan，zheishineixing。”

congzheiyitianqi，zhonghuadadikaishiguangzhonghongfushi。tagetouda、yansemingkuai、guorouqingcui，shenshoudazhongxiai。henduorendouba“yitianyipingguo，jibingyuanliwo”dangchengyangshengfangshi。zaihunli、shengdandengqingdianshang，pingguodoubeidangzuotaocaitoudejixiangguo。

图 | 红富士，一代人的饭后水果

suibuyidingdoushihongfushipinzhong，dandazhongdagailvhuixuandaota。yinweishizhijinri，hongfushirengzhanwoguopingguochanliangde7chengzuoyou。

zailaoyidaizhongguorenyanzhong，hongfushijiushi80houmendecanhoudingliu，yeduiwoguochengweishijiezuidapingguoxiaofeiguozuochulegongxian。

yangjieyanjiuyuanzaitadehuiyiwenzhangzhongcheng，“yigepinzhonggaibianyigechanye，hongfushijiushiyigelizheng。chengqianshangwanguonongyongzhongzhihongfushihuanlaidelaodongsuode，gaishanleshenghuo。congzhongzhiyuantoudaozhenggechanyelianshang，zaojiuleduoshaojiuyehecaifu。”

ruguoshuopingguoshi80houmenxinzhongdechaojishuiguo，neimecongnanfangdeshanlizouchulaidetechandingliu，gannanqichenggengxiangkuayuele80、90、shenzhi00housangeshidai。

1971nian，congxianjiangxinongyedaxuelinxuezhuanyebiyede30suizhejiangqingnianyuanshougen，zaiganzhouxinfengxianshizhongle200keconghunanshaoyangdaihuilaide“huashengdunqichengmiao”，benlaizheigedifangdasuanzhongwenzhoumiju，danzhongmiaochangchangzhangsuikouyijujianyijiugaibianlelishi，gannanqichengcongcifaya。

1977nian，jingguo6nianmosuohou，yuanshougenjiang2000jingedaweitiandegannanqichengmaidaoxianggang，dangshimeigongjin36yuandejiagechaoguolemeiguoqicheng，yijuchengming。yuanshougenyechengle“gannanqichengdiyiren”。

2014nian，jiezhushengxiandianshangdequdaohezhuduohuojiang，gannanqichengzaiwangluodahuo，beinianqingrenbaomai。

ganzhouyouzhengjudangshifabuleyigegannanqichengsanniankuaijianshuju，2016nian567wanjian、2017nian1500wanjian、2018nian2156.84wanjian。2018nian10yue1riqi，gannanqichengdengluyangshi《xinwenlianbo》wan7dianqian10miaoguanggao，weiqisangeyue。kejiandangshidedingliu，budanyouxiaoliang，haiyougaodu。

图 | 赣南脐橙

zaipingguoheqichengzhihou，zhongguoxinyidaixinfurenqundecanzhuoshang，youluxuchuxianleniuyouguo、chelizi、liulian、lanmeidengchaojishuiguo。hepingguoheqichengyibentuhuadezuowubutong，zheixiebijiaoyilaijinkou，zhongguorenyekaishile“shuiguochishijie”moshi。

fuhandanbubaohezhifangsuandeniuyouguo，beitieshangle“huangjinshuiguo”biaoqian。2011nian，niuyouguozaizhongguodejinkouliangzhiyou31.8dun，2023nianyoushujuchengchaoguo40wandun，7chenglaizimilu。

2019nian，yipian《26sui，yuexin1wan，chibuqichelizi》rangchelizichedipolequanminquan。gaofengshi，zhongguorenchixiale87%dezhilichukouchelizi。

tongshi2019nian，zhongguojinkouxinxianliuliandeliangqiaoranchaoguochelizi，chengwei“jinkoushuiguozhiwang”。haiguanzongshushujuxianshi，2022nianwoguodeliulianjinkouliangdadao82.5wandun，qizhongtaiguoliulianzhanbi95%。2023nian，tongzhijiaxiongdideyuenan，yekaishiqiangtaiguodeduihualiulianchukoushengyi。

erxiaoxiaodelanmei，2023nianjinkouliangyeyou6wandun，qieqianlijuda。xingyeshujuxianshi，guoqu5nian，lanmeidexuqiunianzengzhanglvyue40%，qitashuiguodenianxingyezengzhanglvwei3%-5%。

neime，liuzhuandeshuiguocwei，tamendemingyunjiujingshitianzhudingde，haishilaiziwuxingzhishou？

#02、成为超级水果的6个条件

2004nian，kexuejiashoucizailanmeiheputaodengjiangguoleizhongfenlichuzitanqi。jingguoyanjiufaxian，zheiyiwuzhijuyoulianghaodekangyanghua、kangai、kangyanhekangtangniaobingdenggongxiao。

zheiyifaxian，zhijiejianglanmeigongshangle2004nianmeiguochudaichaojishuiguodingliu。

yourenshihouhuaiyi，kexuejiadaodishiqiahaoruchanghaishihezibenyouliandong，yizhiyujingquemingzhonglelanmeirihoudezhangshi。

cong2004dao2014niande10nianjian，jumeiguolanmeixiehuituisuan，meiguorenjunlanmeixiaofeiliangda9nianqiandeliangbei，jiageyepinpingaozhang。

yezhengshizai2014nian，lanmeikuayuetaipingyang，kaishiyiyizhong125kedesuliaohebaozhuang，chuxianzaizhongguodeshengxianchaoshizhong，jujiaolezhongguozhongchandiyiboguanzhu。

图 | 20年前，蓝莓就成了美国的超级水果

duiyuchaojishuiguogainiandezouhong，meiguoshipinxingyefenxizhuanjiazhulian·meileting(julian mellentin) yukaer·kelaofude(karl crawford)liangwei，bingbuyiweiran。

zailiangweihezhude《chenggongchaojishuiguozhanlve》（successful superfruit strategy）yishuzhong，cengdui“heweichaojishuiguo”youyige6yaosudepingpanbiaozhun，fenbieshi：

ganguanyouren，xinqi，fangbian，gongyingliangkekong，youqianzaijiankangyichu，quanfangweideshichangyingxiao。

zaishuzhong，zheiliangweizuozhemingxianzhanzaile “chaojishuiguo”gainianguchuizhededuilimian。zhulian·meiletingrenwei，“chaojishuiguoshibeiyouyizhizaochulaide，erbushicongshushangpingkongzhangchulaide。”

yisishi，“chaojishuiguo”gengduoshizibenyingxiaodechanwu，yuqishuorenmenzaixiangshoushuiguobenshendemeiwei，burushuotagouqideshirenmenduigoumaiyizhongshenfenbiaoqiandeyuwang。

zheizhongshenfenbiaoqianshouxianshijingjishangfuyu、qicishizhuyiyingyangyuyangsheng，yuanyiweisuoweidepinzhidasimaidan。zaicishi，zheizhongbiaoqianzaiquanshehuijubeiyinlingxinghuozhehuayuquan，danfanmeiyougenshangzhe，sihujiushishehuishiyiren。

zuoweishuiguoshengchanyijixiaofeidaguo，chaojishuiguodeyingxiaoyebeizhongguotudishangdeshangchao、dianshangwanchulehua。bijing1.4wanyidejudashuiguoxiaofeishichangchongmanshengyidekeneng，dangranyaodazaohuozheyunyinghaoyigechaojishuiguo，zheibingburongyi。

hemayiweizishendeshengxiancaigoufuzerenbiaoshi，congshangchaoyezhedejiaodulaikan，rujindechaojishuiguoxuyaojubeizheijigeyaosu：

●shengchanduan：chixuwendingdegongying，zuihaoshiyiniansijidounengchidao，bunengjintianchiwan、mingtianjiumaibudao；

●xiaofeiduan：youkeyuqidezengzhangshichang，zheiyangcongnonghudaoshuiguoshang，caiganquzuozhangqitouru；

●jiankangduan：qihequanminyangshenghejiankangdeguannian；

●changjingduan：zuihaonenggoulingshihua，chiqilaifangbian，zheiyangbijiaorongyichuangzaochuwendingdexiaofeichangjing，biruxiawucha、canhou。

yizheiliangnianhenhuodeliulianweili，shouzhongzhihechuzangjishudefazhan，xianzailiulianjihuyiniansijidoukeyichidao，baozhenglejiaoweiwendingdegongying。qizhong，taiguodeliulianchanjicong4yueyanxudao10yue，5-6yueshitaiguodongbujinzhenliulianchanji；yuenan、yijiwoguodehainanliulianduojizhongzai6-8yueshangshi。

liuliandexiaofeijiugengbuyongshuole。2010-2019nian，woguonianliulianxiaofeizengsu16%，shuyugaozengzhang。2023nianwoguonianxiaofeiliulianliang80wandun，zhandaoleshijieliulianxiaofeide82%。jibenshanggaodingzhongguoshichang，shuiguojingxiaoshangjiugaodinglequanshijie。erzaixiaofeizhedejiankangyishili，yigeliuliandeyingyangxiangdangyusanzhilaomuji，genbenwuxujinxinggaochengbendeyingxiaojiaoyu。

图 | 榴莲盲盒，去年最火

yinweiliuliande“shanghuotizhi”，zheidangzhong，haidanshengleyijiakaojinkouliulianyewuqijiade “shuiguodiyigu”—hongjiuguoye（2002nianchuangliyuzhongqing），yu2022nianzaigangjiaosuoshangshi，shizhigaofengshiyidutupo500yiyuan。

hemafuzerenbiaoshi，jiliulianzhihou，muqianshichangwanjiayoujihuabalanmei“dabao”。suirantayijingzaizhongguoshichangmailexuduonian，danrennianjunxiaofeiliang0.26gongjin，ermeiguonianrenjunshi2.63gongjin，shichangrengyouzengzhangkongjian。ciwailanmeiqinghuasubaohuyanjingzhishuo（zhu：lanmeizhixujiandanchongxi，pishangbaishuangcaifuhanhuaqingsu）shenrurenxin，xingzhuangxiaoqiaorongyibeidazaochengxiawuchalingshi，jubeileduogeyoulitiaojian。

zuoweishichangdeqianduan，shangchaokenengyongyuandoushilingminde，danjinkaotamenlaichuangyihaibugou，haixuyaoshuiguozhenggechanyeliandeliandong。

#03、超级水果的命运走向，还需产业链重塑

chaojishuiguosuiranbeishangjiajiyuguangmingdeqidai，dantabingfeijiuyiluhaoming，yinweidanfanyichangyu、yichangyangguang，doukeyigaibianzheigefengxianxingyedezoushi。zheidangzhongbijiaohexinde，jiyoushuiguobenshenchanliangyujiagebiandongdeyinsu，yeyuzhenggexiaofeidahuanjingmiqiexiangguan。

duiyuqianzhelaishuo，shichangdanfanchuxianyigechaojishuiguo，henrongyizaiduanduanshunianneiyinfagenfengzhongzhi，dailaidejieguojiushichanliangkuoda，danbuyidingnengmaichugehaojia。

zheiliangnian，hongfushi、gannanqichengdouyinweichanliangchaoguoshichangxuqiu，zhongzhihubudebugerou。danzailingshouzhongduan，jiaogaodeshuiguojiageyourangxiaofeizhedahu“shuiguomeileziyou”，lirunbeizhongjianshangzhuanzou。

zuishouzhumude“tiaoshuihuanghou”haishuyangguangmeiguiputao，tashenger“tianjia”，beiyuweishuiguojiedeaimashi，danzuizhongchadianjiubeidachengdishangyikuainiba。

rimeibaodao，suizhe2017nianyangguangmeiguizhongmiaoliudaohanguohezhongguo，2020nianzhongguoyangguangmeiguizhongzhimianjidadao5wan3000gongqing，shengchanguimodadaoriben2280gongqingde20beiyishang。hanguo2019nianyedadao1800gongqing，wuxukuozhangzaochengdezhijiejieguojiushi“pinpaishuiguobianchengledazhonghua”。

zaiguonei，yangguangmeiguidezhongzhimianjixunmengkuodadaozhichanliangjizeng，tongshichanpinpinkongbingweiyangeguanche， henduoxiaofeizhefanyingyangguangmeigui“butianle”。

2023nian，yangguangmeiguijiageyicongciqianshubaiyuan/jin，zuididiedaole20yuan/jin，shenzhihaiyougengdide，suishuodangzhongyoupinzhongdechayi，dangaoduantiaoshuizhishuofengqi，zuizhongyingxianglezhongzhizheliyi。

图 | 陕西街边的阳光玫瑰葡萄摊贩

lingwai，jiushixiaofeihuanjingbianhua，yejichaojishuiguodemingyundailailebuquedingxing。yuanlaixiangyaonulichengweizhongchandedazhong，kaishixiaofeijiangjibujiangge——yejiushizhuzhongxingjiabi，jixiangyaochidaojiaogaozhiliangdeshuiguo，jiagehaixiangbiandebianyi。

zhenduizheiyangyizhongzonghejumian，chaojishuiguoxindeshengcunzhidaozhengzaibeiyezhegousi。tongguoshenfenbiaoqiandegaoyijiahuaxiaoshou，yibufuhezhongguoxiaofeishichang；tongshi，weileliyiquanxingyeyihongershangdezuoyefangshi，zhihuiniangchengyigeyouyigeyangguangmeigui。

muqian，xingyeneisikaochudelujingfanganyijingyouyixie。jiangbaokuandangaoangdejinkouchaojishuiguojiage，gaiyiguochanpingti，tongshitongguodingdannongye，laibaozhangquanxingyegeliantiaoliyi，jiushiyixiedifangzhengfuyuqiyeshangjiaxiangchudelujingzhiyi。

yilanmeiweili，yunnanhonghezhoudeshoufumengzishi，shiyunnanzuidadelanmeizhongzhizhixiang。dangdinongyebumendebaofushirangzhongguoxiaofeizhechishanggaozhiliangdanjiagebianyidezhongguochan。

zhengfushouxiantongguozhidaodangdilanmeizhongzhilongtouqiyexinrongmaoyuquanqiuhezuo，yishengchanguochangaopinzhilanmei，laizhanjudingduanhuayuquan。

biruzheilidegailiangzhongzilaiziquanqiuzuidadelanmeizhongzhigongsihortifrut（chuangliyuzhili），kejunyunsansheyangguangdewenshibomolaiziyuxila，yongyeqiaosuiyutannihunzhichengdeturangdiguanxitonglaiziyuyiselie，fenjianxitonglaiziyidali，shengchanchudemengzilanmeiyida、cui、tian、xiang、wunongcandengweimaidian。

dailanmeichanchuhou，zaixiaoshoushang，tongguoyuhemadengzheiyangdechaodaxinglingshoushang，caiyongjidizhicai、yijidingdannongyefangshixiaowangquanguo。

dingdannongyedebenzhijiushiyiliangsuojia，baozhengcongshengchan、jiagongdaoxiaoshoumeigehuanjieyoulikebao，jianggehuanjiedefengxianjiangdaozuidi，erbuhuixiangyiwangneiyanggeliantiaoquanjunfumei。tongshiyouyushizhongguozhizao，zheilichuchandelanmeilingshoujia，fangdaohemadengshangchaojutaiqian，zhishiguowaijinkoupinpaideyiban。

图 | 蒙自光照时间日平均在7-10小时及以上，适合蓝莓等生产

zheizhongjiangshijiepinzhijiehezhongguozhizao+dingdannongyedefangshi，beirenweishibaozhengchaojishuiguokechixufazhandeyitiaotonglu。

buguo，zheiyerongyiyinfashuiguoguojishichangdeyigelaoketitaolun。zhongguoshishijieshangzuidadeshuiguoshengchanguo，dangsuoyoudezhongzijieshangzhongguozhizao，youyizhongdanxinshikenengjiagedouhuibeidadaodishang。

erdangzhongguokenengbayuanbenbujubeiyoushideshuiguodoukenengzuodazuoqiangshi，shibiyehuiyingxiangdaoguojichuantongwanjiadeliyi。

youguandianrenwei，zheishiyigeguanxidaozhongye、nongtianguanli、daojiage、chukoudengduofangmiandezonghejingzheng，yeshiguojiayuguojiazhijiannongyebumenliyidejudajiaoliang。

dangran，zheigeguochengbuhuiyicuerjiu，zaishuiguodeshijie，bicihezuodeqianlibeirenweirengdayuneihao。

erduiyuriquwushidezhongguodazhongeryan，goumaichaojishuiguoxuyaoxindeguannian。zuozaihuagezibushangrenmenbuhuizaijuniyuniuyouguozheigechaojishuiguo，huijizijideshenfendailaiduoshaoyijia。ershihuiguizuichudexiaofeichangshi——tayaopinzhihao、weidaohao、erqieyaobianyi。