文|聚美丽 衔 枝

2024nianjijiangguoban，congguojiatongjijushujulaikan，jinnian1-4yue，huazhuangpinleilingshouewei1357yiyuan，tongbizengzhang2.1%，shichangzongtichenghuinuanxianghao，danxuyaozhuyideshi，qizhong4yuefenhuazhuangpinlingshouetongbixiajiang2.7%，weikainianyilaishoucixiahua。lingwai，jieheyeneitiganlaikan，jinnianhuazhuangpinshengyirengranhennan。

zaigongyinglianduanyoushen，jinnian4yue，qingsonggufenfabugonggaozhongzhinuosibeier148mutudixiangmujianshe，bingyuzhengfubumenxieshangyouchangshouhuitudishiyongquan，jiangdishengchanjingyingchengben，jianqingzijinyali。

jinniangongyinglianduandeshengyijiujingruhe？jiexialaidefazhanhuiqingxiangyushenme？jumeilijizhedaizheshangshuwenti，zaigenmeibohuishangdeoem/odmqiyejiaoliuhou，zongjieleyixia5daguanyugongyinglianduanqiyexianzhuangyijifazhanqushi。

01 彩妆增速高于护肤品，底妆品类需求增大

shouxian，congcaizhuangweizhudegongyinglianqiyedefankuilaikan，zhengtifazhanlianghao，qizhong，dizhuangpinleixuqiuzengda。

“jinnianwomendetilianghaitingbucuo。yinweishichangcunliangyizhidouzai，zhuyaoshiyaokanzenmebawobingzuohaozijihexindetese。xiangzhenchenzaizhupinleishangfalidetongshi，haihuizaichunbu、dujiakejidepinlei，tiqianbujuyixieguochandetidaijinkoudeyuanliao。”zhuzuocaizhuangoem/odmdeshanghaizhenchendeshichangzongjianboninggaosujumeili。

shanghaixiafeidexiangguangongzuorenyuanzebiaoshi，“shengyishang，qunianwomenbingmeiyoushezuguoneibankuai，danjinnianheyixiebijiaoyoumingdepinpaiyouzaiyibubuhezuo，huozhejinxingjiechu，muqianyijingyouyiqianduowandeshengyi。zaijiashangguowaibankuaidebiaoxian，xiangbiqunianwomenshixianlezengzhang，erqiexianzaizhishiyierjidu，lianbanniandouhaimeidao。”anzhaomuqiandedingdanyuqi，qiyujiquannianqiyenenggoushixianshuangweishuzengzhang。

kesimeishizhanlveshichangbugongzuorenyuancheng，heyiqianxiangbikenengmeiyouhuifudeneimekuaisu。buguo，suiranbushigaozengzhangdezhuangkuang，danzongtilaishuohaibucuo，ercaizhuanghuizengzhangdegengkuaiyidian。

mianhuatangdexiangguangongzuorenyuanyegaosujumeilijizhe，deyiyuyushein、mingchuangyoupindengjinyibudehezuo，jinniandecaizhuangshengyibucuo。

jutidaopinleilaikan，shanghaizhenchen、koushimanjia、kesimeishi、mianhuatangdengqiyejunbiaoshidizhuangleichanpinxiaoliangbucuo，qizhongshanghaixiafei、mianhuatang、shanghaizhenchendefenzhichanpinyeyoubucuodebiaoxian，ciwai，kesimeishi、shanghaizhenchen、wuxikemadechunbuchanpindexiaoliangyeyousuotisheng。

“jinnianbeidajiajiaozuodizhuangnian，dizhuang、fenzhishiwomendeyidatese，shishishangqunianqijiuyijingzaiyanjiubujudizhuangxingdechanpin。”boningbuchongdao。

erkesimeishizeshijixuzhenduidizhuangxiniduyijichizhuangdezhuangxiaohechijiuxingjinxingtuijin。

ciwai，duoshuqiyebiaoshichulezaisecai、baozhuangshangjinxingchuangxin，zaifentidechulijishu、peifangyijiyuanliaoshangyehuizuoshengjihuozhechuangxin。

“suizhegexinghuadetuxian，xiaofeizheduizhuangronghuiyouzijidelijie，gengjiadiqubiaoda、zhangyangzijidegexing。dangran，zheiheguowaideshichangyeyouqubie，guowaideshichanghuiyaoqiuyansebaoheduhengao，zhuangganyebijiaozhong，danshiguoneidexiaofeizhehuizaixiansedudejichushang，haiyaoqiuyaogengqingtou、ganjing，buneimeyou，worenweizheishiyizhongzhongguoxiaofeizhezixinlidetisheng。erzheiyehuidaobipinpaihaiyougongyinglianqiyequgensuixiaofeizhedexuqiuzou。”zhenduishangshuchuangxin，shanghaixiafeidegongzuorenyuanrushijieshi。

02 护肤品复苏缓慢，两极分化加剧

xiangduieryan，yihufuweizhudegongyinglianqiyefusujiaoweihuanman。erqiesuizhexiaofeizhegengjialixinghegengqingxiangyugaoxingjiabichanpindexiaofei，pinpaihegongyinglianduanyinxiaofeixuqiudebianhuayesuizhishoudaoyingxiang。

conghezuokehulaikan，bujinjinshipinpaidedingdantiliangbianxiao，hezuokehubenshenyeduolehenduozhongxiaokehu。lingwai，kehuhezuodezhongdiduanchanpinkedanjiayehuijiangdi，gengzhuzhongxingjiabi。

baweigufenxiangguangongzuorenyuantoulu，“jinnianqishibusuanhao，zhenzhengzuopinpaideneixiexiahuadedoubijiaolihai，fanershineixiebaipai、kedanjiabijiaodidefazhandehuibijiaohao。”

suzhoukemazegaosujumeili：“jinnianshoudahuanjingyingxiang，dingdankenengbiqunianhainan。yinweixianzaipinpaifangkaipinbiandefeichangshenzhong，buhuixiangguoquyiyangyicikaihaojigepin，tebieshibijiaoxiaodepinpai，huichuxianneizhongxiaopiliangdingdan，yuanlaideqipiliangkeneng1wanduo，danxianzaiyigexinpinpai，kenengjiuxianzuoge5000，kankannengbunengxing。”

kesimeishi、nuosibeier、shanghaiquanli、guangzhoudongfang、shanghaiyidaidengqiyezaicaifangzhongyebiaoshiyouxiangsideganshou。

buguo，zaigaoduanshichangshang，yinpinpaiduigongyinglianqiyedeyaoqiuhuiyuelaiyuegao，yupingjiapinpaideliangjifenhuagengjiamingxian。

zaikesimeishixiangguangongzuorenyuankanlai，diduanpinpaihuikouchengben，gengyaoqiuxingjiabi，ergaoduanpinpaizeduiyuanliao、peifang、zhuanliyijibeishudengyougenggaodeyaoqiu。yuanlaizhongduanshichangshizuidade，danxianzaididuanhegaoduanshichangdezengzhanghuiduizhongduanzaochengjiya。

“gaoduanpinpaihediduanpinpaijixuliangjifenhua，erzhongduanshichangxiachendebijiaolihai，jiushi300-500jiaweidedingdanlianghuishaohenduo。”beihaobuchongdao。

ciwai，pinpaifangduidaigongchangdefuwuxuqiuyehuijinyibushenhua。

“xianzaigongchanghepinpaidehezuodoushiyaogongchuang。suoyi，gongyinglianyeyaogenglejiepinpai，congshichangshouzhongdaoliniandaoqudao，zaidaoshenmeyangdechanpinnenggoubangzhupinpaidazaochubaopin，yijicongyuanliaoduan、jianceduandengtigongyigequanlianludefuwu，zheiyanghezuocainengzhangqi。”nuosibeiershujujichuanxunjinglihuangbailujieshidao。

03 从科研发力，在功效护肤上继续“内卷”

congzheicimeibohuikan，gongxiaohufurengranshimuqiandaredesaidao，chulezaigongxiaoshangdexifen，ruminganjihufu、xiufu、kanglaowai，gongyinglianqiyeyezaikeyanshangfali，xiwanggoujiandujiayuanliao、peifang、jishutixi，tishengqiyejingzhengli。

biru，baweigufenzaimeibohuishangjiuzhanshileqidujiazhuanliweiningzhujishu、chaoweizhijishu、fangshenglixingzhizhicushenzhuanlijishu。julejie，fangshenglixingzhizhicushenzhuanlijishukeyibangzhuhuoxingwugenghaodetouguopifupingzhang。

wuxikemazezhanshileqikm-hydrotrop zone nanrongxingwuzhiwendinghuajishu、km-cyclosome shuangzhonghuanshijishu、km-multi pe complex kemadujiacushenzuhe、km-mf eml namiweisheliucushenjishubingjiangqiyunyongzaichanpinzhong。

congyuanliaohepeifangweidulaikan，beihaotuichuleziyanjinjiekangshuaixianfengkejichengfendapeijidi“bokara”，bingjiangqiyingyongdaobokarabojin「jiyin」nilinghufuxiliezhong。

suzhoukematongyangzhanshilekangshuaiyuanliao，jiribenkemadujiakangshuaiyuanliao—beejuvena ，gaiyuanliaotiquzixibanya“0min”fenghuafen，juyoukangshuailaoxiaoguo。julejie，xinyuanliaojiangyujinnianzaiguojiayaojianjujinxingbeian，shiyongxinyuanliaodechanpinxianxiujinghuajiangzaibeianchenggonghouzhengshituichu。

baweigufenzezaimeibohuishangzhanshileshoukuandujiayanfabingzizhubeiandexinyuanliaoxiangludouyetiquwu。erguangzhoudongfangzhanshilehanqidujiazhuanliziyanyuanliaoshuangxiaojiaoyuandexinpin「juedaishuangjiao」kangzhouxilie。

keyikandao，dabufengongyinglianqiyedouzaiyouyishidiqutishengzishenkeyannenglibingwajuedujiayuanliao、jishudeng，yiqigouzhuzishenjishubilei。

04 寻求增量，出海意愿增加

zaijinnian，chuhaiyeshiyeneibeipinpintijidereci，conggongyinglianduanlaikan，chuhaiyeshiqiwajuezengliangdefangshizhiyi。

qizhong，baweigufen、guangzhoudongfang、shanghaizhenchen、shanghaixiafei、wuxikema、kesimeishi、nuosibeierjunbiaoshihaiwaishichangdehezuokehuyixiangtisheng、shuliangzengjia，tongshi，qiyebenshenyehuiduihaiwaishichangjinxingkaituohetansuo。

biru，mianhuatanggongzuorenyuanbiaoshi，qiyumingchuangyoupindehezuojiuyouhendayibufenshichukoude，suizhejinnianmingchuangyoupinzaiyingguodeyewukuoda，hezuoyejinyibujiashen。

shanghaixiafeidegongzuorenyuanzegaosujumeili：“womengongchangbankuaizhongchaoguo70%dedingdandoushiguowaidingdan，zaijiashangguoneihezuokehuhehaiwaidepinpaidouhuizaijiechuchuhaidexiangmu，suoyimuqianweizhiwomenzengliangdoushibijiaodade。”

“jinnianmingxianganshoudaodongnanyachuhaichaodeyingxiang，womenjiuyoujiechudaoyixieyinnidekehu，yijibeimei、dongnanyadexinkehu。ciwaizhenchenbenshenyezaiyinnijianchang，zhengtilaijiangwomenhaishibijiaokanhaoguowaishichangde。”boningtouludao。

05 拥抱监管，在行业正向化发展中谋增长

chuleshangshutiganwai，jumeilijizhezaimeibohuixianchanglejiedao，jinnianwanzhengbananpingyeranggongyinglianqiyeshoudaoleyidingyingxiang。

congcaifangfankuikan，dabufengongyinglianqiyejunbiaoshigaiyingxiangbukebimian，qizhong，baweigufen、suzhoukema、shanghaiquanli、guangzhoudongfang、koushimanjiadengdoubiaoshi，zaiwanzhengbananpingweixuanbuyouyinianhuanchongqizhiqian，duolehenduo“quanlibeizhan”dekehu。danzaiyinianhuanchongqidexiaoxichulaizhihou，kehumendefanyingbujinxiangtong。

suzhoukemashichangbugongzuorenyuangaosujumeili：“youxiejuedeanpingjiranyanhoule，jiuyaoganzaiwanzhengbananpinghaimeiyoushishizhiqianjinkuaishangxingengduodechanpin，haiyouxiejuedefanzhengyanhoule，jiubuzhejile。yuanbendasuan5yue1haoyiqiankaipinde，xianzaikenengzhunbeinianqiankaidiaojiuhao，bazhouqilazhangle。”

erwenjiruheyingduiwanzhengbananpingdeshishi，gongyinglianqiyemenjunbiaoshiyizaitiqianjinxingchubeigongzuo，bingzaijishuyijishengchangongyi、yuanliaoshangjinxingyouhuaheshengji，jibenshangkeyizuodaozai2025nianshipingwenguodu。

“guojiaduihuazhuangpinanquandeyaoqiukendinghuiyuelaiyueyange，zheishiyingzhibiaoyeshidashisuoqu，zuoweitoubudachang，womennengzuodejiushiyongbaojianguan，wanggaozhiliangfazhan。”huangbailushuodao。

zaibujumingyeneirenshikanlai，“gaozhiliangfazhanshixinshidaideyingdaoli。zheiyejiuyiweizhe，zairujinjingzhengjiliedeshichanghuanjingzhong，gongyinglianqiyebixuyaoyoukejishili，cainengzhanlingxiaofeizhedexinzhi”。

“datieshangxuzishenying”，zaicunliangshichangjingzhengzhong，gongyinglianqiyeweiyoutishengzishenyingshili，goujianchayihuayoushi，cainengzoudegengyuan。