文|红餐网 麦泳宜

编辑|王秀清

“cicibidianshifenshebude，danyelijie，youjishanyouyuanjianghuzaijian！”

jinri，youwangyoufatiecheng，haidilaochigu75%depinpai——“youjishanyunguichuantanhuoyufajiaobistro”（yixiajiancheng“youjishan”）yijingbidian。

hongcanwangheshifaxian，muqianyoujishanqueshiyichuyuzantingyingyezhuangtai，mendianzhuanghuangyezailuxuchaichuzhong。

人均300元，只存活了9个月

qianbujiu，hongcanwangshidizoufangleweiyubeijingdeyoujishan，gaidiandamenjinbi，qiangshangdehaibaoyoubeisixiadehenji，jiubabataishangduifangzheyixiejiuping，zhuangxiuqicaisanluozaigegejiaoluo，chengxianchurenquloukongdejingxiang。

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youxiaofeizhezaimeituanappliuyancheng，gaimendianyu“wuyi”jiaqiqiantingzhiyingye。hongcanwangduocizhidianyoujishanliuzaimeituanappshangdelianxifangshi，danjunchuyuguanjizhuangtai。

juhongcanwanglejie，youjishanyuqunian8yuedikaishishiyingye，congshiyingyedaobimenxieke，jinjincunhuole9geyue。

zhideyitideshi，youjishankeyishuoshihaidilaodediyijiadulijiuguan。

haidilaozai2023niancaibaozhongtidao，qichiyouyoujishan75%degufen。ciqian，haidilaocengyi“dianzhongdian”dexingshituichuguo“hilao”xiaojiuguan，eryoujishanzebeishiweihaidilaokaichudediyijiadulixiaojiuguan。

图片来源：红餐网摄

zheijiazhudayunguichuanfengweidezhongshichuangyicailiaolibistro，kedanjiazai300yuanzuoyou，yingyemoshiwei“zaocwana、rikayejiu”，yingyeshijiancongshangwu10diandaocirilingchen1dian。zhaopaichanpinzhuyaoyoukaoguizhouhuangniuniugusuipeizizhilubing、zifajiaosuanzarou、kaolaoguiyangcuicuidudeng，caipinjiagezai88-680yuanjian。ciwai，haitigongputaojiu、jiweijiu、qipaojiudengjiushui，qizhonghongjiuleiyipingqishou，jiagezai268-628yuanjian。

ciqian，youjishanyiduzaibeijingxiaoyoumingqi。hongcanwangyi“beijingbistro”weiguanjiancizaigedashejiaopingtaishangsousuo，jiuyoubushaotiezihuozhongcaohuozanmeiyoujishan，shenzhihaiyouxiaofeizhezhiyan“youjishanshibeijingzuijinzuihuodebistro。”

jiezhihongcanwangfagao，duiyuyoujishanbidianyishi，haidilaofangmianzanweizuogongkaihuiying。yimingzichengyoujishangongzuorenyuandexiaohongshubozhugaosuhongcanwang，youjishanguandianshiyinwei“xiangmudiaozheng”，muqianzanwujixukaidianjihua。

昔日网红开始降温？一批bistro门店开始倒闭

jinguanyiyoujishanweidaibiaodebufenbistroyeceng“wanghong”guoyiduanshijian，danzuoweiyizhongxuyaotongshijiangucan、jiu、fuwudeyetai，jingyingyijiabistrodetiaozhanbingbuxiao。

hongcanwangguanchafaxian，cengjingbaohuodebistrozhengzaijiangwen，muqianyijingyouyipibistroxiangjibidian。

juhongcanwangbuwanquantongji，chuyoujishanwai，hangzhoudebistro etexiajiu、beijingdegrape laneputaoxiang ·bistro&cafe、wuhandevive.tweijiudengyipidifangwanghongbistropinpaixiangjichuanchuguandianhuojingyingshoucuodexiaoxi。

erzheixiebistrozhisuoyibidian、zhuanrang，dadoushiyinweichengbenyaliguoda、buzhuanqianyijijingyingnanduda。

duoweishoufangzhexianghongcanwangtoulu，qijingyingdebistrodandianqianqipubianxuyaotourugaodabaiwanyuan，danyouyurichangdejingyingchengbengao，yinglinan，huibenzhouqiyuanzhangyuyibandecanyindian。

zaichengdoudekaola（huaming）dasuanzailiuyuediguanbizijidebistro。congshiyingyezhijin，kaoladedianyingyeshijianbudaoyinian。tabiaoshi，chengbenyaliguoda、buzhuanqianshijuedingbidiandezhuyaoyuanyin。

biru，beirenweiyijiaxiangduijiaogaodejiu，shijiquezhuanbudaoduoshaolirun。kaolazhiyan，yinxianghaiyuanbistro（zaixifang）pingjiacanjiuguandedingwei，tademendiankedanjiamaodingzai150yuanzuoyou，jiudelirunweihuqiwei，cantingzhijinrengchuyukuisunzhuangtai，suoyixiangzhechenzaobidianzhisun，“zhishaochenzuihouyigeyue，bayuangonggongzizhuanzu。”

zaishanghaikaizhejiangcaibistrodeyaya（huaming）zezaishejiaomeitishangbiaoshi，kaiyijiabistroyuanmeiyoutaxiangxiangzhongjiandan，bingzhiyanzijidemendianshiyingyeqijianyizhichuyukuibenzhuangtai。

yayabiaoshi，jinguanmendianderenjunxiaofeida300yuan，danzaishanghaikaidian，haiyaobaoyuangongdechizhu，shicaiyegui，mendiandechengbenyalibuyaneryu。

ciwai，tayezaiyipian“zishengxiaozuowen”zhongtidaolebistrodeguanlinanti，“bunengguoyuyilaizhuchuhuozheqiantaizhudiao，ershiyaojiangzijimendiandelinianguanshuyuzhenggezhuchutuanduihediaojiutuandui，fouzejiuhuihecantingdingdiaochuxianpiancha，yunyingjiuhuichuxianwenti。”

“zuocantaihaofeijinglile，yihouhaishizhikaijiubashengshidian。”duoduo（huaming）zaihangzhoukailejiarenjunxiaofei170yuandebistro，zuijinzhengzaizhuanrangzhong。

tagaosuhongcanwang，qichugukexiwanghejiutongshiyouxiajiudecaipin，suoyitajiangyuanyoudejiubagaiweibistro，dangaibianyetaihou，yuelaiyueduokerendaodianzhichifanbuhejiu。zuocanbimaijiugenghaofeijingli，duoduoxuyaodingqishedingxinzhutiduimendianjinxingzhongxinbuzhi，yijipinfangengxincaidanxiyingukezhuyili，zhangqixialaitajuedelibucongxin，zuihoujuedingzhuanrangmendian。

远道而来的bistro，在中国有些水土不服

shishishang，zuoweibolaipin，bistromuqianzaiguoneirengchuzaixiangduigangadediwei。

1、qianqueshichangjiaoyu，gukeyi“liushuishidaka”weizhu

youyumeiyouxingchengpubiandexiaofeixiguan，bistrorengbeirenweishiyizhongxiaozhongyetai，zheiyeyiweizhejingyingzheizhongyetaidekeliu、fugouxiangduijiaoshao，jingyingdetiaozhanxingjiaoqiang。

fang·fun bistrozhuchujaylerenwei，muqianbistrodegainianzaiguoneihaiyoudaipuji，“henduoxiaofeizhebumingbainizaizuoshenme，dianliyouxiangjiuguanyouxiangxican，danxicanyoudenaiyouyimiannizheiyoumeiyou，chidehaoxianghaishizhongcan，ruoyizhongcandejiagezuobijiao，bistrodexingjiabibiduanjiumashangbaoluchulai。”

zaitakanlai，muqianhenduoguoneibistrodebenzhirengshixicanting，erfeixifangdepingjiacanjiuguan，“bistrobenzhijiushixishidapaidang，meiyouguoduodeyishigan，ershiyigerangrenfangsong、suiyichifandedifang。”

erzaixiaofeiduan，xiaofeizheyeweipubianxingchengdaobistroxiaofeidexiguan。hongcanwangzaiguangzhoumoubistrotandianshi，yiweixiaofeizhebiaoshi，qidaobistroxiaofeidepinlvyuesangeyueyici，qiegengduoshi“liushuishidaka”，jiaoshaofugoutongyijiadian，jiuyeshimeicidouzaibianyidejikuanzhongxuanze，“congrenjunxiaofeilaikan，zheizhongdianbukenengjingchangxiaofei。”

duici，zhishengcanyinpinpaizhanlvezixunchuangshirenshouwenbinzongjiecheng，bistroyetairengranxiangduicuiruo，jiashangdangdainianqingrenjiaoxixinyanjiu，hennanyouwendingdexiaofeikequn。

2、jingyingzhebeikunzai“kanbujiandechengben”li

yunyinghechengbenshizhongduobistrojingyingzhemenjixudaijiedenanti。

dancongcanyinye“sanzuodashan”shuoqi，youyuqiangdiaodakashuxing，xuduobistrodouchuyuyixianchengshizhongxindiduan，jiashangqiangkongjiantiyan、fenweigan，mianjiwangwangchaobaiping，zujin、zhuangxiuchengbendouxiangduijiaogao。tongshi，dianneibunengtaiyongji，zhuoshuyehuishoudaoyidingxianzhi，congeryingxiangfantai。

chuleshangshu“kandejian”dechengben，haiyouyixie“kanbujiandechengben”xuyaokaolv。

zoodlezhulirenwangsaxianghongcanwangjieshao，youshihouzuoyixiechuangyicai，qizhongdeyinxingchengbenwangwangbiputongdechanpingenggao，lirugaidiande“yanxunzhuerduo”shiyongdehexinyuanliaoguomuchai，bizhuerduobenshenjiagehaiyaogui，“danzheixieyinxingdedongxi，kerenganjuebuchulai。”

jayleyebiaoshi，zai“nanxiangfengweixueya”zhong，weiyangaiyaxiongdexingwei，huizaijiangzhizhongtianjiajinkouniuyoujinxingzhonghe，“dandaduoxiaofeizhedouchibuchulai。”

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erweileranggukeganshoudaozheixie“kanbujiandejiazhi”，yixiebistrodouhuizaimeidaocanshibeichengdaocanzhuoshangshidouhuibanyoufuwurenyuanhuozhuchuqinzijieshao，yihuoshizaicaidanzhongjiangsuoyongdaodeshicai、pengrenshoufabiaochu，qianyimohuarangxiaofeizhetiyandaocaipindejiazhi。

danbingfeizheiyangjiuwanshile。jaylebiaoshi，“xuyaorenyuanjieshao，jiuhuizengjiarengongchengben，diejiacaidangengxinpinlvjiaokuaishi，yuangongpeixunyoushiyijiannanshi。hekuangyouxiegukezailiaotianshibuxiwangbeidarao，womenyezhinengmomoshangwancaijiulikai。”

3、xiaofeiqushibianhuaxia，“xiaoziyetai”detiaozhanjiaju

chuleshangshuyinsu，zuoweizaixiaofeishengjilangchaozhongqudeyidingfazhandeyetai，xiaofeiqushiyeduibistrodejingyingdailailetiaozhan。

jinnianlai，canyingedayetaiwuyibuzaiqiangdiao“xingjiabi”dezhongyaoxing。erguoneidedabufenbistroqiangdiaoxiaoziqingdiao、jingzhigan，nanmianhuiliushiyibufenkeliu，duiyubenjiuxiangduixiaozhongdebistroeryan，jingyingdenandujinyibujiaju。

zuoweirujuzhe，jaylecongqunianniandijiuganjuedaobistrodereduchengxiahuaqushi，dantajuedesuizhenianqingrenjieshouchengdutisheng，“zhongcanxizuo”degainianhuiyuelaiyueguangfan，jieshibistroshichanghuojiangyinglaixinyilunkuorong。

“dangran，zheiyiqiedeqianti，jianlizaijingjihuifudeqingkuangxia”。jaylerushishuodao。

pinpaizixunzhuanjia、hongcanwangzhuanlanzuozhezhaibinyerenwei，bistrosaidaodejiangwen，yudangqianxiaofeiqushidedahuanjingyouguan。“bistrosuijiaoxiaojiuguan，danshijiagequebuqinmin，shiqudangqiancanyinyexingjiabiyuanze，liuliangjiunanyibaozheng。”

zhaibinrenwei，weilaibistrozaiyixianhuoxinyixianchengshihuiyougengduoshichang，danfugaifanweikenengbingbuda。“bijingbistrohaishuyuchihaohehaodefanchou，zheigenchibaoheshuangdexiaofeixiaxingdaqushiyoudianxiangbei。”