文|定焦 苏琦

编辑|魏佳

“mannerpinpaidiaoxinghao，xingjiabiyegao，nicaishisheizaifuzhongqianxing？”yimingyilizhidemannerkafeishi，kandaojinqidemannershijianhou，zaishejiaopingtaishangyouganerfa。

mendianjiankongshipinxianshi，6yue17rishangwu8dian，manner coffee（yixiajianchengmanner）shanghaipudongmouzhiyingmendian，yougukeyindengdaishijianguozhangeryoubaoyuan，dianyuanzaisanjieshihouxunwen“shifouxuyaotuidan”，yinfagukebuman，gukekaishinaqishoujipaishipin，zuizhongyanbianweizhitichongtu。

tongyitianzaoshang10dian，mannershanghailingyijiazhiyingdian，yigukeyincuidanyudianyuanfashengmaodun，gukechengyaotousugaidianyuan，suihoudianyuanqingxushikong，jiangkafeifenpoxianggaiguke。

6yue20ri，mannerhuiyingchengliangqichongtushijianjunyizuochuli，qizhongpokafeifendenvxingyuangongyibeikaichu，erlingyiweinanxingyuangong，zezaixiangguanbumendiaojiexiayugukehejiebingdaoqian。

danzheiyihuiyingyinfalewangyoudebuman，bushaowangyoubiaoshi，zheichangchongtuzhong，yuangongyugukeshuangfangdouyouzeren，eryitianneifashengliangqichongtushijian，beihouderenxiaowentigengzhidefansi，wangyoumenhanhuamanner“yaobayuangongdangren”。

yulunfajiaozhixia，mannerzai6yue21rifabuzhiqianshengming，chengduidangshikafeishihuobanjinxingleanfu，jiexialaihuiyouhuamendianyunyinganpai，yehuijiaqiangduikafeishihuobanderichangguanxin。

henduoaihekafeideren，duimannershiyoufensilvjingde。tazuowei2015nianchenglidepingjiajingpinkafeipinpai，zaonianyinweihaohe、bianyi、nengyingli，yijijianchibuzuowaimai、“buxiangmoshadiaomeiyigekafeishigexing”dejingyinglinian，yinfalexiaofeizhehetouzirendeshuangzhongzhuipeng，yeyidubeishiweiruixingdezuiyoulijingzhengzhe。

dansuizhegongsipaochushanghai、jinjunquanguo，kaifangwaimai、laxinyonghu，mannerzaibaochidiaoxinghezhuiqiuguimozhijianyaobai，zaijizhidechengbenkongzhizhixia，yalichuandaojilekafeishi：weilequbieyuruixingdequanzidong，manneryongbanzidongkafeiji，zheixuyaokafeishiyougenggaodebakongli；weilejiangdichengben，henduomendianlizhiyouyigerenbaolanquanchang。

mannerdezheicishijiansixialekafeichayinxingyedezhexiubu，zaikuaisukuozhangyujizhirenxiaodeshuangzhongyalixia，beifuzhongdandeyouhezhimanneryijiadekafeishi？

Manner咖啡师，沦为“工具人”

mannerduocibaofachongtushijian，daohuosuodoushiyonghujuededengdaishijianchaochuyuqi。neime，mannerkafeishidesudu，daodimanbuman？

genjujiemianxinwendebaodao，youkafeishitoulu，mannerhuianzhaomendianyejifenpeirenshou，riyingyeezai5000yuanyixiade，yigedianzhipai1geren，riyingyeechao6000yuancaihuipai2geren。

womenjiandansuanyixia，ruguoyaodadao5000yuandemendiandanriyingyee，anzhaojunjia20yuan、mendianmeitianyingye10xiaoshijisuan，xiangdangyuyigongyaozuo250bei，yigexiaoshizuo25bei，ji2.4fenzhongyibei。

2.4fenzhongchuyibeihuoxushikeyishixiande，danzheigeshuzideqiantishiyigekafeishiyizhi“mandang”。zaishijigongzuozhong，kafeishixuyaochifan、shangcesuo，zaizhizuokafeiwai，haiyaochengdandiandan、qingjieweisheng、buhuo、pandiandenggongzuo，zheidouyasuozhezuokafeideshijian。

congyezhejieshao，butongyuruixing、kudidengliansuokafeipinpaishiyongquanzidongkafeiji，mannershiyongdeshibanzidongkafeiji，zhizuochengxugengjiafuza。

zishenkafeishiwanwangaosu「dingjiao」，ruixingzhizuoyibeinatiedeliuchengshi：danai、fangbing、ananjian、chuye、gaigai，suishouqing，chubeidabao。mannerdeliuchengzeshi：danai、fangbing、modouzi、bufenyafen、fangshangshoubingcuiquchuye，shoubingxiexiafenbingqiaochulaiqingli、chubeidabao。“ruguorangtongyigerenyongliangzhongjiqizuoshibeikafei，mannerzhishaomanyiban，qiechupingengjiabuwending。”

图源 / Manner官方微博

zheihaimeisuanshangdaizidaibeideyonghu（mannerguiding，ruguozijidaibeiziqu“da”kafei，hainengjian5yuan），dianyuanbujinyaozaijutaidiandan，haiyaoduizidaibeijinxingqingjie。youxiexiaofeizhehaihuidianshouchonghuolahua，zheizhongfeibiaozhunhuadecaozuosudugengman。

mannerzaichuangli7nianhou“potianhuang”qidongdewaimaiqudao，gengjiazhonglemannerkafeishidegongzuoliang，jinyibuyanzhanglekequndedengdaishizhang。guanzhukafeichayinsaidaodetouzirenlinchencheng，zheiyikansi“dalian”decelveyuanbenshiweilekuodafugaifanwei、laxinyonghu。

yiweimannerzhongshiyonghugaosu「dingjiao」，zidawaimaikaifanghou，tatiqian20fenzhongxiadanziqu，daodianhouyiranyaodengshijiershifenzhong。ruguoyudaomannerchulianming，paiduideshijiangengjiu。

hengxiangduibitongxing，ruixingkafeishixiaohegaosu「dingjiao」，yuangongshuliangkanmendiandanliangjueding，shixinglunbanzhi，danlianghaodedianshizaowange2-3geyuangong，danliangbudayuqidejiuzao1wan2huozhezao1wan1，geziyoujiaomingquedefengong。“xiangmannerneiyangzhipeibeiyimingyuangong，bufenshiduanbaolanquanchangdeqingkuangbijiaoshaojian”。

zaibosszhipinpingtaishangkeyikandao，zaimannerzongbusuozaideshanghai，mannerkafei、ruixingkafei、m standkafeiquanzhikafeishixinzifenbiewei8k-10k、6k-9k、5k-7k，jianzhishixinjunwei25yuan/xiaoshi-30yuan/xiaoshi。

kanqilai，mannerkafeishinadaolexingyeneijiaogaodexinchou，danshiyoumannerqianyuangongbiaoshi，gongsidekaoheyange，weifanguidinghuibeikoufa，gongzuoshijianyebuxianyumeitian8xiaoshi、shangwuxiuer，kenengxuyaomeitiangongzuo10xiaoshi、shangliuxiuyi，gongzuoliangda，dandaoshoudegongzibuwending。

zimeiti“youshudatavision”cengzai2023nianzuoguoshujuduibi，manneryidandian500danderidanlianglingxianyuruixing（400dan）hexingbake（330-375dan），danrengongchengbendezhichubiliquediyuruixing（15%-16%）hexingbake（18%-20%），jinyou12.5%。

diyuxingbakehuoxukeyilijie，danxiangzuojingpinkafeidemanner，rengongchengbenquebizuozidonghuakafeideruixinggengdi，zheibingbuheli。

Manner还是没能打破不可能三角

mannerdekafeishiweishenmehuilunwei“gongjuren”，hezheijinianmannerfashengdebianhuamiqiexiangguan。

henduokafeiaihaozhedouhuihuainian2015niankaiyedediyijiamanner。neishihoushanghaidejingpinkafeifengchaoyijingxingqi，zaishouchongkafei40yuanqideshanghai，mannerpingjie25yuanyibeideshouchong，xiyinlebushaozhoubiangongzuodebailinghekafeiaihaozhe。

cihousannian，mannerzhikaileliangjiaxindian。zheiyishiqidemannermoshiweixiaodiangaopingxiaomoshi，jizaizuiremendediduan，kaimianjizuixiaodejiebiandian，kongzhikaidianchengben，bajiagedingdi，zaiyongdikedanjia、gaorenliulianglaibaozhengdanliang。

linchencheng，yijiajipingmidemannerdian，qianqitouruzhiyao30wan，kedanjiazai20yuanzuoyou，3geduoyuejiunenghuiben。“xiaodianmoxingrangmannerzaidangshimeiyouduishou，qieshixianledandianyingli，jizhidechengbenkongzhiyeshiqirihouchengweizibenchongerdeyuanyinzhiyi。”

zheisanjiadianrangbushaorenzhijinduimannerzheiyipinpai，yijichuangshirenfufuhanyulonghelujianxiayoufensilvjing，renweitamenzaibaochizhuanyexingdetongshi，fazhanyunnankafeidouchanye，yeyidujikafeishimentigongguogenghaodepeixunhefazhanjihui。

zhidao2018nian，5yueshimannerhaizaiguanfangweixingongzhonghaobiaoshi“manner，haishimanmanzouba，bushuaijiaojiuhao”。daole10yue，manneryong40%degufenhuanqulejinrizibende8000wanrongzi。nadaorongzihoulianggeyue，manneryikouqizaishanghaikaichu5jiafendian。

zibendejinchang，bukebimiandegaibianlezheijiagongsi。youqishizaiguimokuozhanghebaochijingpindiaoxingzhijian，mannerxianruleyaobai。

2020niandi，jinrizibenpaiqixiatouzijinglijinbinbinjinrumannerdongshihui，danrengongsiceo，fuzerichangyunyingguanli，erhanyulonghelujianxiazegengzhuanzhuyuchanpinyanfahepinpaishangyougongyinglian。

cihou，mannerdekuozhangbufagengxianjijin，dao2023nian11yue，mannerxuanbutiqiandachengquanguo1200jiadetuodianzhibiao，jiezhimuqian，mannergongyou1295jiamendian。

数据源 / 窄门餐眼 时间 / 截至2024年6月10日

zouchushanghaitan，xunzhaoxintiandidemanner，yijingwufazaifuzhixiaodianmoshi。yierxianchengshidekafeidianzhengquyubaohe，“yaoshajinbailing、nianqingrendejujidi，jiudejinhexinshangquanhexiezilou，gaojianaxiagaokeliuliangdedianwei，dianxingyeyaojinxingdiaozheng，houqixinkaidezhulimendiandiedaiwei20-50ping”，linchenbiaoshi。

rujin，zhenggekafeixingyedouzaijuandijia，2023nian6yueruixinghekudifaqi“9kuai9jiagezhan”yilai，mannerweichizaimeishi/natie15yuandejiagedai，zidaibeihaiyaozaijian5yuan。pinzhishang，manneryouyaohedulikafeidianduibiao，zaiyingxingzujinchengbenzengjiadejichushang，wufafangqigaoangderuanxingchengben——manneryizhijianchishiyonggengduofenliang、zhiyonghongbeihao20tianyineidekafeidou、shiyongduanbaolengliandelengxiannaideng。

manner“jingpin”dingweizuihoudejueqiang，haitixianzaishiyongbanzidongkafeijishang。

“duiliansuokafeidianeryan，banzidongkafeijiyoufeibiaozhunhuadebufen，xuyaogenggaoangderengongchengben”。wanwanji「dingjiao」suanleyibizhang，mannershiyongdeshila marzoccobanzidongji（yeneisuchenglama），butongmendianshiyongdexinghaobutong，jiageyue8-10wan；ruixingdabufenmendianshiyongdeshischaerer（xuelai）quanzidongkafeiji，jiagezai8wanzuoyou。

zaijiqitouruchengbenchabuduodeqingkuangxia，shiyongbanzidongkafeijidemannerxuyaogengduorenli，danzaijieshengchengben、zhuiqiurenxiaodeqiantixia，yalizuihoubeizhuanjiazaikafeishishenshang。

jutianyanchaxinxixianshi，2021nian5yue26ri，jinrizibendelaoguyoucoatueheh capitaljieshou，xuxinlichang。dangshibuzhiyiweitouzirenrenwei，zheikenengshiyinweitouzifangyuchuangshituandui，zaizhanlve、jingyinglinianshangyoujiaodafenqi。

mannerdezuijinyicirongzihaitingliuzai2021nian，qiguzhiyidugaoda28yimeiyuan（yueherenminbi203yiyuan）。dangshimannerzaiquanguomendianhaibudao200jia，xiangdangyuyijiadianguzhiyigeyi。

zaiyixietouzirenyanzhong，mannertouzhileweilaijiniandeguzhi。“yaoxiangchengdeqizheigeguzhi，youliangzhongfangan，yizhongshikuozhangdaoliangsanqianjiadeguimo，yizhongshijiangdichengben，zengjiadandianyingshou，tigaozhengtilirunlv。”linchenbiaoshi，mannerxianzailiangzhedouzaizuo，2024nian，mannerlixiale2000jiademendianmubiao。

erduiyujinglirundezhuiqiu，kenengyeshizaochengqiduirenyuanchengbenjidukongzhideyuanyinzhiyi。

mannerxianzaidenantishi，jibugoujingpinyebugouliansuo，chuzaijiafengzhongdekafeishi，haizaikukuchengya。zuoweikafeishi，wanwanbiaoshi，mannercengjingshituxiangyaodapokafeixingye“bianyi、haohe、liansuo”zheigebukenengsanjiao，zhishixianzai，zheigesanjiaozaicipoliele。

行业内卷，“不体面”的不止Manner

2020nian，yipianguanyuwaimaiyuandeyanjiu《“suanfaluoji”xiadeshuzilaodong：yixiangduipingtaijingjixiawaimaisongcanyuandeyanjiu》cengyinfaguangfantaolunhefansi。zuozhetidao，zaifuwuxingye，shijianfenpeichengweileyizhongzhanxianquanlidefangshi，sheizhangwoleshijiandekongzhiquan，sheijiugengchuyuquanlidegaowei。

zheizhongshijiandezhangkongquan，jiuzangzaigongsizhidingdexitonghesuanfali，tongyangdeqingkuang，yecunzaiyukafeichayinxingyezhong。lunwei“gongjuren”dekafeishihechayinshi，bujuxianzaimanneryijia。

zairuixinggongzuodexiaohezichao，toushangyeyousanzuodashan。

zairuixing，dajiazongshijiaozijiwei“kafeianjianshi”，yinweiruixingdequanzidongkafeijibuxuyaorenhejineng，fuzeananjianjiukeyile。danshiruixingchuxinpindesuduhenkuai，“danzitebieduodeshihou，rongyinongcuopeifang。”sudushang，ruixingyeyaoqiuyange。xiaoheshuo，ruguonagemendianchaoshitaijiu，wanshanghuizaidaqunlibeidianming。

gengrangxiaohejinzhangdeshigezhongxingshidejiankong。xiaohekaiwanxiaocheng，dianli18kuaizhuan，you5gejiankong，yonglaijiandudianyuanyoumeiyouweiguixingwei。ruixingyiduyaoqiuyuangongzhiyaoshoupenglezhizuogongjuyiwaidedongxi，jiuyaomashangxishou，erqieyaoxi20miao。quniannianmo，“ruixingkafeishishoulan”dehuaticengchongshangweiboresou，cong2024nian1yue8riqi，ruixingdianyuandexishoupincicongyixiaoshigenggaiweiliangxiaoshiyici。

图源 / luckincoffee瑞幸咖啡微博

chucizhiwai，dianyuanhaiyaoyingfugezhonggeyangdejiancha。xiaohecheng，gongsidepinkongrenyuan，zhiyaochadaomendianyouxiaowenti，zheigeyuedejixiaokendingjiumeiyoule。danjishidedaomanfen，gongsiyebuhuijirenhejiangli。

xiangbiruixing，mixuebingchengdekafeizhizuojiandan，danchayindezhizuoguochengfeichangfuza。yijiadiandedianzhangxiaoxiagaosu「dingjiao」，gongsiduihouchangbeiliaodepeibi（cha、shui、bingdepeibi）、zhuzhenzhuyuyuandebuzhou、chatanggenkafeiyedepaozhishijian、kaifengyuanliaodexiaoqijiancha；qianchangdecanpinzhizuobuzhou、yaoshaobiaozhun、weishengweihuheshouyinfuwutaidu，douyouyangedekaohebiaozhun，yidanbuhegejiuhuifaqian，mendianhaiyaobeitongbao。

xiaoxiajieshao，zhengchangrenliuliangqingkuangxia，yigemendiantongchangpeiyigehouchangbeiliao、sangesiqianchang，wangjirenshouhuilveyouzengjia，yibanshilianggehouchang、wuliugeqianchang。

moutoubuchayinpinpaideqiandianzhangzegaosu「dingjiao」，zijidianneiderenyuanshezhihemixuebingchengchabuduo，danshisuizhexinkaimendianzengduo，jianzhirenyuandezhanbibiangao，jiashanggongzuobuzhoubijiaofansuo，jiurongyichucuo，kesulvzhujianzenggao。

tongshi，kaidianmidubianda，dandianyingyeeshoudaoyingxiang，yuangongxinzijinyibuxuejian，yekanbudaoshangshengtongdao。“dianzhangdegongzibiyuangongduobulehenduo，zhizequeduodeduo。dianzhangbujinxuyaofuzemendianyunying，haiyaobeiyingyeehehaopingdukpi，dabudaojiuyaojieshouchengfa，beigongsiwenze，yalihenda。”

zaikafeichayindouzaijuanwandian、juandijia、juanrenxiaodejintian，bulunshiyuangonghaishidianzhang，doumianlinzhongdayali。

shangshukafeishidourenwei，cicimannershijianzhong，gongsi、guke、kafeishigeyouwenti，gongsiweilejieyuerenlichengbendaozhichucanman，gukebafuwuxingyedangchengqingxulajitong，kafeishimeiyoudiaozhenghaoxintai，fanyingyoudianguoji。

cicishijianyejieshileyigecankudezhenxiang：duiyuliansuokafeihechayinqiyelaishuo，renmeineimezhongyao。dangliansuodianyuelaiyuejiejinbiaozhunhua，yejiuhuilirenyuelaiyueyuan。

zaizheitaozhuiqiubiaozhunhuadexitongli，kafeishizuoweifuwurenyuan，jiyaorangzijishiyingsuanfa“zuigaoxiao”debiaozhun，youyaomanzuxiaofeizhe“gengkuaigenghaohainenggexinghuabeizhuyaoqiu”deyuqi，lunweigongsizhuiqiufazhansududegongju。

“ruguoyougenghaodejihui，wokendingbuxiangzaifuwuxingyehunxiaqule。”yiweikafeishishuo。

应受访者要求，文中林晨、万万、小河、小夏为化名。