文｜砺石商业评论

xingbake，yizhishibizhejiweiguanzhudeyijiaquanqiuxingbiaoganqiye。

danjinri，xingbakedeyizerenshibiandongxinxirangbizhepoweiyiwai。8yue13ri，xingbaketuranduiwaixuanbuxianrenceonasihanjikexieren，youbulaien·nikeerjierenceobingjianrendongshizhang。

nasihanshiyuquniancaigangjietixingbakechuangshirenhuohuade·shuercichurenxingbakeceode，zaizhiqiantacengdanrenyingguozhumingxiaofeipinqiyelijieshijituan（duleisi、dilu、meizanchendengpinpaidemugongsi）deceo。zaiqigangshangrenzhichu，xingbakechuangshirenhuohuade·shuercicengchengzantashiyiweijuyouzhanlvexinghebiangexinglingdaolideren，zaigoujianqiangdaxiaofeipinpaifangmianyongyoushenhoujingyan。

danjinjinyiniandeshijian，cengbeijiyuhouwangdenasihanqueanranxiake。zaicibeihou，zuizhijiedeyouyinbianshixingbakezaiguoquyiniandeyejixiahuayugujiadadie。danjiangyejixiahuayugujiaxiadiewanquanguizeyugangshangrendenasihan，zheishifouyoushigongyun？

shuxiquanqiujingjideduzhehuilejie，zaiguoquyiniandeshijian，quanqiufanweidejingjidouchuxianledafushuaitui，daozhirenmendexiaofeixinxinbuzu，jinerzaochengdaduoshuquanqiuxingxiaofeiqiyedouchuxianleyejixiahuadejumian。xingbakeyehennanliwai。

zaishouhongguanhuanjingyingxiangerdaozhiduanqiyejibiaoxianbulixiangdeqingkuangxia，biancongconghuandiaoyiweicengjinghenhaodizhengmingziji，qieshangrenzhichucengduiqigaoduxinrendeceo，zheishiyigezhengquedexuanzema？

《lishishangyepinglun》zaizhangqishangyeyanjiuzhongfaxian，youyileiqiyeceoshihennanzuode。jiushizishenjuyouxianmingdegerenfengge，erqiyechuangshirenhaiyijiuzaishibingduiqiyerengbaochizhejudadeyingxiangli。

zheizhongqingkuangxia，qiyexinrenceohennanzaiqiyezhongjianliweiwang，zheishiyinweichuangshirendecunzai，huirangqiyeyuanlaobingbuqingyuanjiangxinrenceoshizuozhenzhengdelaoban，ershijingchanghuijiangyixieduiceodefeiyichuandaochuangshirenerzhong，zuizhongdaozhichuangshirenyuceozhijiandegehebuduanjiada，jinerzouxiangjuelie。

xingbakebianshizheiyangdeyigedianxinganli。zuoweixingbakechuangshiren，huohuade·shuercisuiranyijingxierenzaixingbakeneibudeyiqiezhiwu，danyijiubaochizheqiangdadeyingxiangli。jumeitibaodao，zainasihanjierenhou，shuercihaijingchangxiangzhenggezhixingtuanduifasongdianziyoujian，tigonglingdaolihuoshangyejianyi。youqizuijinjigeyue，qiduigongsideyeji、gujia、caidanxuanxiangyijiyingxiaohuodongdoujinxinglejiliedepiping，tashenzhihaizailinkedingongkaibiaodashiwang，chenggongsibuyaozhao“jiekou”，yao“chengrenbuzu”，shuoxingbakexuyaoyi“duiguketiyandekuangreguanzhu”laigaishanmendian。

zainasihanzhiqian，huohuade·shuerciqishijiuyijingyouguoyicigenghuanceodejingli。dayuezai2008nianmeiguojingjiweijiqijian，xingbakeyejiyugujiabiaoxiandoubulixiang，huohuade·shuercilianhedongshihuimianchuleshiren ceo dejimu·tangnadedezhiwei，youzijijieren。zai《yiluxiangqian》yishuzhong，huohuade·shuercibianxiangxijieshaoletazaidiercichurenxingbakeceohoudezhenggebiangejingli。

zaixingbakezhujianhuiguizhengguihou，shuerciyouyu2017nian4yuezaicixierenxingbake ceoyizhi，youneibugaoguankaiwen·yuehanxunjieren。danzai2022nian3yue16ri，kaiwen·yuehanxuntuixiu，huohuade·shuercizaicichurenlinshishouxizhixingguan，houyu2023 nianliyaodaonasihanchengweixingbakediyiweikongjiangceo。ranggongzhongmeixiangdaodeshi，huohuade·shuercidezheicituixiuyebushunli，zijiqinzijingxinxuandingdeceozaiyinianzhihouzaicibeizijiqinzibamian。zhishiyouyuhuohuade·shuerciniansuiyigao，qihennanzaiqinzichurenceoyizhi，zhinengtuierqiuqici，zhongxinxuanzeleyiweiceojieren。

xingbakexinrenceobulaien·nikeer，cengyu2018nian3yueqidanrenmeiguoliansuocanyinpinpaichipotledeceo，bingdailinggongsishixianleyejidedafuzengzhang，gongsishizhiyeshangzhangchaoguo750%。chipotleshiyijiazhudamoxigecaideliansuocanyinpinpai，chengliyu1993nian，zhuyingmoxigejuanbing、yumibingyushaladengchanpin。bulaien·nikeergangjiarushi，zheijiagongsihaichuyuyichangdaozhi1000duorenzhongdudeshipinanquanweijizhong，erjiezhimuqian，tayijingchengzhangweijinciyumaidanglaoyukendejidemeiguodisandacanyinpinpai。

dailingchipotlejuechufengshengdechusebiaoxian，rangbulaien·nikeerbeiyejieyuwei“the top public restaurant ceo（meiguodingjiandegonggongcanyinceo）”，touzizheduitadeshangrenyejiyulejiaodaxinxin，shangrenxiaoxifabudangtianbiandaidongxingbakegujiadazhangjin25%，chuangxiaxingbake1992nianshangshiyilaidezuidadanrizhangfu，gongsishizhiyezhonghuiqianyimeijin。

fupanlingdaochipotlebiangedeguocheng，bulaien·nikeerdehexincelvebianshizuojianfa，zhuanzhuzuiyoujiazhidelingyu。liruzhuanzhuziyingdianmian，bukaifangjiameng；zhuanzhumeiguobentushichang，bukuaisukuozhangguojishichang；butigongzaocan，zhizhuanzhuwu、wancan；quxiao“maiyizengyi”dengdixiaocuxiaoshouduan，zhuanzhu“for real”depinpaixuanchuanlaituchugongsideshiwupinzhi。chulezhuanzhuzaizuijuhexinjiazhideyewulingyuzhiwai，bulaien·nikeerhaizaishuzihuabiange，jiaqianggukelianxi，yijizaijiaqianggongsiyuangonghewenhualingyutouzidengfangmianzuochulezhuoyuegongxian。

huohuade·shuerciyeyizhigaoduzhongshixingbakedeyuangong、wenhuayuyonghutiyan，congbulaien·nikeerlingdaochipotledehexinxingdonglaikan，qiyuhuohuade·shuercidefenggepoweixiangxiang，gengrongyihuodeqirenke。zaibulaien·nikeershangrenzhihoudeyifenshengmingzhong，huohuade·shuercibiaoshi，“bulaien·nikeerzailingshoulingyuyouzhezhuoyuebiaoxianhetigongfeifangudongjiazhifangmiandejilu，tanenggourenshidaolingdaoyigeyiwenhuahejiazhiguanweiqudongdeqiyesuoxudeguanjianrenwenyaosu，woxiangxintashixingbakezailishishangguanjianshikesuoxuyaodelingdaozhe。”

xiangbinasihan，bulaien·nikeerhaizhengqudaoleyigegengweiyoulidetiaojian，qizaichurenxingbakeceodetongshi，haijianrenxingbakededongshihuizhuxizhiwei。zaimeiguodegongsizhilijiegouzhong，dongshihuijuyouhendadequanli，qinenggouzhijiejuedingceodequliu。erbulaien·nikeertongshichurendongshihuizhuxiyuceolianggezhiwei，huiyouliyuqizaigengziyoukuansongdehuanjingxialingdaoxingbakejinxingbiange。

buguobulaien·nikeeryemianlinzhejudadetiaozhan，xingbakedangxiamianlindeshiquanqiupoweibujingqidexiaofeihuanjing，qiexingbakedeguimotiliangyaoxiangbichipotledadeduo，yijiqiyouzhezhanbihendadegengweifuzadeguojishichang，zheidoushibulaien·nikeerzhiqianbucengyingduidetiaozhan。

zaizheili，womenbuquzhongdiantaolunxingbakegenghuanceodeshifeiduicuowenti，ershiqutantaoqiyeruhegenghaodijiejuejiebanrenchuanchengdewenti。

bizhezaiguanzhudaliangdeqiyejiebanrenchuanchenganlishifaxian，shibaizhebibijieshi。liru，zhiqiandoucengbeijiyuhouwangdealibabajituanceozhangyong、jingdongjituanceoxuleiyubaidujituanzongcailuqijunyiwaizhongtuxiake，qizhongyigezhongyaoyuanyinshishangshuqiyedechuangshirenyuchuangyeyuanlaotuanduidoujuyouhenqiangdeyingxiangli，zheixiejiebanrendouhennanzaiqiyejianliqizhenzhengdeshengwang，chuangshirenyedoumeiyoujiyuqizhenzhengchongfendexinrenyuzhangqizhichi。

fanguanjigejiaoweichenggongdeanli，lirumeidejituanhexiangjianjiaobanfanghongbo，wankejituanwangshijiaobanyuliang，lianxiangjituanliuchuanzhijiaobanyangyuanqing，junjuyoulianggegongtongtezheng：

diyi，hexiangjian、wangshiyuliuchuanzhidoushijijuxionghuaiyugejude，tamennenghuanweisikaoqulijiejiebanrensuomianlindekunnan，yinciwanquanfangshouqielipaizhongyi，jiyujiebanrenwutiaojiandexinrenyuzhichi，zheibianweinianqingjiebanrenzaiqiyezhongxunsujianliqiweiwangchuangzaolelianghaotiaojian。

dier，fanghongbo、yuliangyuyangyuanqingdoushizaiqiyezhangqirenzhideneibuyuangong，bujinshuxiqiyedejutiyewuyuwenhuafengge，qiedoutongguozhiqiandeyejibiaoxianhuodelechuangshirenyuchuangyeyuanlaoderentong，nenggouyongyougengduodeshicuokongjian。

xingbakeshiyijiaquanqiudingjiandejiechuqiye，huohuade·shuerciyeshiyiweishijiejidejiechuqiyejia，danqiquezaiqiyejiebanchuanchengdewentishanglvlvzaoyucuozhe，bizherenweizuizhongyaodeyigegenyuanshiqiquefaduineibupeiyanglingdaozhedexinxin。xingbakeyouzhequanqiuzuijiadewenhuayuyonghutiyan，zaishushiwanyuangongzhongquewufatiaochuyiweihegedeceoshibukesiyide，fangqizishenneibudeyouxiuyuangongerquwaimianwuserenxuan，wuyishishejinqiuyuan。

jishizheiweiwaiburenxuanzaiyouxiu，qiyejiangmianlinzhelianggeduanshijiandouhennanjiejuedezhangai，yigeshiduigongsiyewuxijiedeshuxichengdu，yigeshituanduidexinrendu。ruguowufazuodaoduiyewuxijiedechongfenshuxi，wufahuodechuangshirenyutuanduidechongfenxinrenyuzhichi，youxiaodeqiyebiangebianhennanzhankai。

zheigedaoliqishimeiguozhumingguanlixuejiajimu·kelinsizaozaiqijingdianzhuzuo《jiyezhangqing》zhongjichudaan，tazongjieyixiliejiyezhangqinggongside113weiceofaxian，zhiyou4ciwaiburenxuanzhijiejierenceojiaosedegebieanli，qitaquanbushi“zijiachengzhangdejingliren”。buzhishenmeyuangu，ranghuohuade·shuerciyanzhonghushilezheigejielun，zaicongwaibukongjiangceoshibaihou，youzaicixuanzelezheitiaolujing。

congwaibukongjiangceoyebunengzhijiepandingxingbakejiexialaijiuhuizaicishibai，danhuohuade·shuercizheiciyidingyaobaochinaixin，zhudongruohuazijiduiyugongsideyingxiangli，jiyuxindelingdaozheziyoufahuidekongjian。ruguoqiyefazhanshaoyoubulixiang，jiukaishichuxianduijierenzhedebuxinrenbingchushouganyu，neimebulaien·nikeeryehennanbimiannasihandexiakemingyun。