wen | yulezibenlun mia

“guoneidechayinjiamengshangshuliangxianzaiyijingchuyugaofeng，jinnianjindejiamengshang，80%huibenwuwangle。”yiweitoubushangyezhubozaishejiaopingtaishangzheiyangshuo。

yigeweixiandexinhaoshi，gebiepinpaideguandiansudu，yijingchaoguolekaidiansudu。

jihaipinpaijiancedeshujuxianshi，jin90tiannei，shuyishaoxiancaoxinkaimendian496jia，danguandianshuquegaoda1605jia。ershoupingtaishang，chayinmendianfenfenchushoushebei，youshebeihuishoushangbiaoshiyitianneizuiduojiedaoguo13geshuyishaoxiancaodechediandianhua。

juzhaimencanyanxianshi，jiezhidao9yue15ri，chayinsaidaojinyinianxinkaidian138682jia，danjingzengzhangzhiyou12493jia，yiweizhe，duanduanyinian，jin13wanjiadianpuyijingbufucunzai。

“buhaozuo，jiaobuqifangzu，qingbuqiren，yiweichengbendi，lirungao，qishiyiruchamenshensihai。”duoweichayinjiamengshangxiangduojiaobiaoshi，“huibenyaoyaowuqi”，dangaoedetouziyourangzijiwufataoli。

suizhenaichapinpaizhubukaishiwangtoubukaolong，yaobupinpaizaizhubushiqushichang，rangrengengbuyuanyikandaodeshi，yixiechayinpinpaiyijinggubushangjiamengshangdeshengcunkunjing，kaishiyujiamengshangzhengli。

“gongsijianwoyejihao，limachenglifengongsi ，zaiwosuozaidechengshikaiqibajiazhiyingdian”，yaobunaichapinpaijiamengshanglinyatoulu，maibuhaokuibaiwanzishengzimie，maidehaobeipinpaizaipangbianfangjiamenghuozhiying，pinpaiyujiamengshangbingbuchuyuyitiaozhanxianshang。

jiagexiangxia，zhujianchengweixingyeguanjianci，yechouhuailejiamengshang。“zhiyingdianzuohuodong，wojiubeipoyaogenzhezuohuodong，wobugenwojiumeishengyi”，dan“9.9yibei”ezhuxinchayindeyanhou，zhongjiandeyouhuijiamengshangchengdan，“pinpaidouzhigongbuxiaoshoue ，conglaibugongbushishoujine，yinweigenbenzhengbudaoqian。”

“chayinxingyeyijingmeiyouzengliangshichangle”，zishenxingyeneirenshiwangmiaogaosuduojiao，yaomesuoxianggengxiao，yaomeyongdaguimokuozhangjiejuewenti，zheishichayinpinpaifazhandebiran，danpinpaidefengkuangkuozhanghezhengzha，beihouyidingshijiamengshangmendekukuzhicheng。

“zaizheigequnlideren，kuisunzuishaoersanshiwan，duodeyoushangbaiwan，haibunengtucaoliangjulema？”xiaohongshushang，shuyishaoxiancaodejiamengshangqunli，qunyoumenzhengzhileqilai。

qunlibufazhengzaikaolvjiamengdexinren，dandagailvhuihuodeyijulaizilaojiamengshangdequangao，“jinshenkaolv，meiyiqianhaozuole。”

piliangdeguandianchaobeihou，buzhiyijiachayinpinpaidejiamengshangshenxiannitan。

jiazhumouyanhaichengshidejingyijiushiyijiaerxianchayinpinpailaojiamengshangzhongdeyiyuan，liangnianqian，tazaijiaxiangchengqukaileyijiapinpaijiamengdian，weizhichuyuxuannaodeshangyebuxingjie，yinweiyoushidedianwei，meitiandouyoujudadekeliuliang，danzuijintayezaikunao，kaolvyaobuyaobidian。

julejie，jiamengyaobunaichadianpinpai，diyiniandechengbenkenenggaoda60-70wanyuan，tadedianjiamengfeishi49800yuan，shebeiheshoupiwuliaodayuehuafeibudao20wanyuan，jiashangfangzu，zongtouzibianzai70wan，dangran，zheihaibubaokuorengonghezhuanrangfei。

rangtagandaoyalideshipinpaifangdegaoyijia。dangqian，daduojiamengshangzaiwuliaocaigoushangjihumeiyouyijiaquan，bixuyigaoyushichangjiadejiageconggongsitongyicaigou。chabaidaobiancengzaizhaogushuzhongmingquebiaoshi，qidabufenshourulaiziyuxiangjiamengshangxiaoshouhuopinheshebei，yijishouqutexuquanshiyongfeihejiamengfei。

zhuangxiufangmian，weilefuhegongsideyaoqiu，jingyibudebutouruewaidechengben，dingzhijuzi、guanggaozihedengxiang，dantabunengjieshoudeshi，zaichuqidedancitouruzhiwai，laiziyuancailiaoshangdechixuxinggaochengbenyijia。

“jiunagongsitigongdeguojianglaishuo，suiranbiaocheng950ml，danshijiguorouhanliangzhiyou35%，qiyudoushishui，ershimianshangtongdengjiagedeguojiangzeshihppchunyuanjiang。tongyang，shimianshang700duoyuanjiunengmaidaodegaopinzhiyaochaji，gongsiyaomai4500yuan。”

gaochengbenbingbuzhijiedengtonggaohuibao，gongsiqiangzhituixingdedijiacuxiaohuodonggengshirangtagandaotouteng。

xianshangyewuyanranchengweilekuisundezhongzaiqu。dangqian，waimaipingtaipubianchouchengbilizai20-30%，zaimouxieqingkuangxiashenzhikenengdadao40%，meibidingdanhaixuewaizhifupeisongfeiyong。weilexiyinguke，shangjiabudebucanyushenquan、manjiandenggezhongcuxiaohuodong，yaoxiangzaipingtaishanghuodepuguang，haibixuzhifuguanggaofeiyong，“meiyouguanggaojiuhennanbeikandao，yejiumeiyoudan”。

tazixisuanguoyibizhang，yibanqingkuangxia，canyupinhaofanhuodong，14.8yuandeyinpindawanzhehoushi7.9yuan，shangjiadaoshouzhiyou50%，shijishouruzhiyou3.95yuan，gengjiduandeqingkuangxia，yibei14.8yuandeyinpin，kouchupingtaichoucheng、yongjinheguanggaofeihou，shijidaoshoudezhiyou2.65yuan，jihuwuliketu。

图片来源：采访者提供

tajinyibubuchongdao，pinpaidiejiazaijiamengshangshenshangdexianshangguanlifeiyeshiyibibuxiaodekaizhi，yingyeechaoguo5wanjiuyaozhifu500yuandeguanlifei，yingyeemeizengjiayiwan，guanlifeijiuduoyibai，lirunbeiyicengcengnazou。

jixiwangyutangshixiaoshoushiweiyidechulu，danpinpaifangfengkuang“juan”dijia，yebianchengleyazaitashenshangdeyigengendaocao。

gongsitongyidedingjiayibei15yuanyishang，danhuodongjiazhiyougeweishu，shenzhimaiyisongyi，jinguanruci，pinpaifangrengandingjiajisuanliushuikouchuguanlifeiyong，jiamengshangquezhinengshishougeweishudejiaqian。

wuliaochengbenmeiyouyinweihuodongerjianshao，zhongjiandechajiawanquanluodaolejiamengshangshenshang。yichayinchangjiandelianmingweili，yigedanbeidebaocaichengbenkenengjiuzailiangdaosanyuan，baokuobeizi、gaizi、beitao、xiguanhebeituo，pinfandelianminghuodongyerangjiamengshangdelirunkongjianjinyibubeiyasuo。

jieguoshi，xieruchayinpinpaiyejizhongdedanyidianpuyingyeekanqilaipojuyouhuoli，danduijiamengshanglaishuo，shijishourudadazhekouqiemaolilvjidi。

yiyigeyue16wandeyingyeeweili，kouchuzhekou，qishijishouruzhiyou13wan，zaijianquchaoguo30%deyuancailiaochengben，shijilirunzhiyoubudao8wanyuan，kouchumeiyue5geyuangongde2.8wanyuangongzihe2wanyuandefangzu、shuidianfei，haiyaohuajiwanyuanquyuliukucun，yigeyuexinkuxialai，tadelirunsuoshengwuji。

tongyangzuoweierxianpinpaijiamengshangdelinyazaoyulegengyanjundewenti，chuleqitapinpaidejingzheng，tahaizaoyulelaizibenpinpaifangde“zijirendazijiren”。

tadedianpushispinpaizaizheigechengshidediyigejiamengdian，qianqiqudelefeichanghaodeyeji。suiji，gongsizaizheigechengshikaisheleqibajiajiamenghezhiyingdian，haizhijiezaitadedianpupangbiankaileyijia，qiangshijiyatadeshengcunkongjian。

pinpaifangdekuozhangxianranbujinshiweilezhanlingshichang，pinpaihaidingshangletadehuangjindiduan。gongsicengtichuyi25wanyuanshougoutadedianpudexiangfa，kaolvdaodianpudezongchengben70duowan，zhangmubujinmobuping，fanerhaihuidaokui，tajujuele。

raner，zicongjujuehou，tafaxianzijidedianpukaishizaoshoupinpaifangdewulidiaonan，congweishengbiaozhundaofuwuzhiliang，pinpaifangzaimeiyigexijieshangdouguofenkeqiu。

“wojuedetamenjiushimingdebuxingyaolaiyinde。”linyagankai。

muqian，taxianruleyigeliangnandejingdi：jixujianshoujiuyaomianlinchixudedimaoliheyingyekunnan，guanbihuochushouzeyiweizhejishiwandetouzikuisun。

pubiannanguoderizili，xichahebawangchajichenglejinzitadingduande“xingcunzhe”。

“zheiliangnianyejiuzheiliangjiahaikeyizhuandian”，buzhiyigejiamengshangzheiyanggaosuduojiao。

duojiaodiaochadaomouerxianchengshideshuju，shuyishaoxiancaodeyueyingyee9.3wan，shijishouruzhiyou6.1wan；molinaibai10tianneideliushui11wan，shijishourushi7wan，qiewuliaochengbenchaoguole40%”，erbawangchaji，meigeyuedeliushuidayue50wan，lirunkeyiweichizai5wanzuoyou。

tongshi，xichajinqibimiandijianeijuandexinzhengce，mingquetichubaohujiamengshangmianshoudijiachongji，ranghenduoqitapinpaidejiamengshangyanhong。

9yue18ri，xichazaineibuxinzhongbiaoshi“mendianguimobingbushichayinxingyedeguanjian”，chengnuobuzoutongzhihualuxian，budajiagezhan，zhiliyutigongdutedepinpaitiyanhechanpinchayihua，jiexialaijigeyuejiangyangebakongkaidiansuduheshuliang。

zheitiaozhengceganggongbu，jiuzaijiamengshangzhongyinqileguangfandetaolun，“xichaxinpinduo，erqiekedanjiayizhibaochizai19yuanzuoyou，youhuihuodongyemeineimelipu”“congzheifengxinlaikan，xicharuguozhendenengzuodaoyangebakongkaidiansuduheshuliang，yesuanduijiamengshangbijiaofuze”.....

jingyigankaidao，dangqian，xuduopinpaihaizaitongguojiangjiahecuxiaohuodonglaizhengduoshichangfene，xichadezuofaheduijiamengshangdebaohurangtagandaoxianmu。

dandaduoshushihou，zheiyangdexianmuyezhishiyizhong“yangwang”。toubupinpaiwangwangyiweizhegenggaodemenjian，rangjingyimenkewangbukeji。xianeryijiandeyinglinenglibeihou，qishaixuanjiamengshangdetiaojiangengweiyanke。

liru，bawangchajiyaoqiujiamengmendianmianjizhishao70pingmi，qiezaibufenxiachenshichangmianjiyaoqiugengda；jiamengshangchulexuyaozhifurengong、fangzudengchengbenwai，haixuyaozhishaozhunbeihao100wanyuandezijinchubei。

“touzi500wankaiyijiabawangchaji，100wankaijiaxicha，80wankaijiaruixingkafei，50wankaijiamixuebingcheng”，xingyeneicengzheiyangjiandangaikuo，danzheixieshuzizhishijichuxian，shijiyunyingzhongsuoxudeliudongzijinheziyuanzhichengdouzhiduobushao。

“xicha、bawangchaji、suannaiguanguandouhenyange，qizhongbawangchajishizuiyande，jishiyouqian，yebuyidingnengtongguojiamengmianshi。”youjingxiaoshangxiangduojiaobiaoshi。

zaishejiaomeitishang，wangyoumenfenxianglezijijiannandejiamengshenqingjingli。

yourentidao，yukefugoutonglezhangda40fenzhong，caihuodeyigetijiaoshenqingdejihui，jiamengguochengbaokuolianggejieduandeshenhe：shouxianshixianshangchushen，ranhoushimianshihuanjie，ermianshideanpaipaidaolelianggebanyuehou。

lingyiweiwangyouyebiaoshi，tahuafeizai3geyuehuodelebawangchajidejiamengquan，danhaixuyaodengdaiyaohaohequedingdianwei，zheigeguochengkenengxuyaobanniandaoyinianzhijiu，zaiciqijian，shenqingrenzhinengzaichubeichizhongdengdai。

duojiaolejiedao，toubupinpaizaicongchubeichizhongxuanzejiamengshangshi，jiangdianpudianweideshipeixingfangzaishouwei。

“birupinpaixiangjintongzhouwanda，neijishiyou100gerenzaipaiduidengdaijiameng，douyijingmianshitongguole，douyoukaidianzige，haishisheinengbangdingtongzhouwandajiujisheikai”，wangmiaoxiangduojiaobiaoshi。

yiyangdexushibeiyanshendaozhenggecanyinsaidao，haidilaogangganggongbudejiamengshenqingbiaozhizhong，jiuyouyigexuanxiangshi“shifouyongyouwuyeziyuan”，dan“wangpu”bujinyiweizhediliweizhiyouyue，gengyiweizhejiamengshangyongyoushenhoudegenjiherenmai。

bufenpinpaiduidianweideqiangliezhuiqiudailaileyixiliefuzuoyong，“pinpaimeigeyuehuijinxingyiciyaohao，cong50gehouxuanrenzhongxuanchuyige，dandianweiwangwangdoushiyuxianjuedingde。womenzheixiexinjiamengshangzhishizaibangzhupinpaiwanchengmianshiliangdekpi，taochudangdirenxinmuzhongdelixiangdianweihou，huibeipinpaimaijilaojiamengshang”。

yiweilaizizhejiangdeyonghufenxiangletadejingli，“mianshideshihouwenwoneigedianweinengbunengnaxia，woshuojueduimeiwenti，jieguotongguohougaosuwoneigedianweitamenyaozijianpai，dasidouburangwozuo”，bushaorenzaipinglunqufuhe，“henduopinpaidoushizheiyang，kanhaoledianweidadianhuazixunbeitaolehua，ranhoumeiguoduojiukandaoyijingzaizhuangxiu”，zheixieyouzhideweizhizuihouchangchangbianchenglegongsineibudeziyuan。

laiziguangdongdeyiweijiamengshangjinyibuzhichuleshijidewenti，“tamenshuoshizijijingying，danshijishangshizaixianglaojiamengshangchushoujingyingquan”，jibianshizishenjiamengshangyemianlinzhebeipinpaineibuziyuanpaijidewenti，bushaopinpaicunzaineibudeliyishusong，xiangkaidehaodianweibeiyouxiananpaijihegongsi“guanxihao”dejiamengshang。

lingyifangmian，xingyejingyanyechengweilezhongyaodekaoliangyinsu。zhangpengfenxiangletaqunianshenqingdejingli，“woshenqingdebawangchaji，tamenyaoqiujiamengshangbixutongshijingyingwujiayishangdeqitadianmian，bingqieyongyouzhishao40rendeyuangongtuandui”，zheiduiyutalaishuojibenshangnanyishixian。

buguantoubuhaishiyaobu，duishichangdeminruibawoheshijidepanduanzhiguanzhongyao。wangmiaojiushiyigedianxingdelizi，tazai2021nianjiamengleyigetoubupinpai，jinyongshigeyuejiushixianlehuiben，dangnianjiuxuanzelemaidiao，zhijiezhuanlejishiwandezhuanrangfei。tatanyan，xianzaiyijinghennanchuxianzheiyangdeshichangqiji。“meiyoufengkoule，buyaozuochayinjiameng，fengyijingtingle。”

shuyishaoxiancaodejinqizaoyuchengweilexingyedeyigesuoying，zheiyiboguandianchao，bujinshishuyishaoxiancaoyijiadekunjing，ershizhenggexingyezhongyaobupinpaigongtongmianlindewenti。

“leiqishimaidebijiaozao，dangshikuozhangdetaikuaile，gefangmiankenengzhichengbuqizheimegaotiliang”，wangmiaofenxishuo，tongyigejiagedaitongyigetiliangdejingzhengduishoujingzheng，zuihouzonghuiyouyigeluoxialaide。xinchayinxingyedekuaisufazhanqi，xiangshuyishaoxiancao、guming、chabaidaodengdoucaiqulexunsukuozhangdecelve，zheiyeweiweilaimaixialeyinhuan。

yishuyishaoxiancaoweili，qimendianshuliangzaiduanduanjinianneikuaisuzengzhang。2020nianxinzeng3898jiamendian，zongshuda4561jia；2021nianxinzeng2653jiamendian，zongshuda7115jia；2022nianxinzeng786jiamendian，zongshuda7544jia；2023nianzhijinxinzeng1658jiamendian，zongshuda8325jia，chule2022nian，meinianxinzengdouchao1000jia。

suizhepinpaikuozhang，yixiewentiyezhujianbaoluchulai。jiamengshangxiangduojiaotoulu，“shuyishaoxiancaoyi‘banbeidoushiliao’weimaidian，daozhichengbenbenlaijiubudi。”ciwai，xiaofeizhefankuiyebiaominglepinpaidewentisuozai：“quefaxindebaokuanchanpin，meiyouxingchengshenkedepinpaijiyidian，chanpingengxinsudutaiman”，“zaixianzairenrendoujiangjiankangdeshidai，shuyidezhaopaijuranmeifadiaozhengtianduniganxin？”xianran，zaitongjiaweidenaichapinpaizhong，xiaofeizheyouyuelaiyueduodexinxuanze。

tongshi，congzhenggechayinjiamengsaidaolaikan，suizheyuelaiyueduodapaicongyixianchengshizouxiangersanxianshenzhigengxiachendequyu，ruxingyunka，shuyishaoxiancaodengzaixiachenchengshizhanjuxianfayoushidepinpai，shichangyezaibeibuduanfenshi。

“kuozhangzhinengyangaiwenti，danbunengjiejuewenti。shuyiyaodaxicha、bawangchaji，yaodachayanyuesezheiyangde“yuanlaoji”dediyupinpai，haiyaozijihezijida，rizidangranyuelaiyuenan。”wangmiaoshuo。

“jinniankenengshixipaidekaishi”，wangmiaoguanchadao，shichangzhengzaijingliyichangcankudeyoushenglietai，“yixiediweiduchengshidepinpaixiangyaojinrugaoweiduchengshi，huozhequyuxingpinpaixiangyaochengweiquanguoxingpinpai，jihubukenengle。”

chayinxingyedeyixiexiaopinleipinpaiyouqiruci。

yiningmengchaweili，quanguoningmengchazhuanmendiandeshuliang2021nianshixianbaofashizengzhang，nianzengzhanglv103.3%，ningmengchayechenggongchuxianle1000jiajiamengdianyishangdepinpai，fenbieshi1739jiadeningji、1633jiadelinlihe1307jiadelinli。

yankanzheningmengchadeshengyicongguangdonghuodaolequanguo，danwangmiaoduicizhijietanyanbingbukanhao，haizhijiezhichule“pinpaidebeixiangkuozhangkenenghuizaijinniandongtianmianlinfengxian”dewenti。

yifangmian，ningmengchapinleicunzaizhemingxiandejijiexingzhigu。ningmengchadechanpinjiyinjuedinglezaichangwenxiakenengnanyimanzuxiaofeizhedekouweixuqiu，zhinengzuolengyin，eryidanjinrudongji，xiaoliangbianhuixianzhuxiahua。

“tongchangdaole11yuedi，guangzhouhezhusanjiaodiqudeyejihuixiajiang30%。zheishichangjianxianxiang。”wangmiaobiaoshi，zaiguangdongzheiyangxiangduiwennuandediquxiaoshoudouchengwenti，beifangchengshimianlindetiaozhangengda，youqishizaidongbeidiqu，10yuefenqiwenjiuyizhoujiang，duilengyindexuqiudadajiangdi。

jinguanyixieningmengchapinpaishitutongguozhuanxingweizonghechayinlaiyingduibeifangdedongjishichang，birutuichukougangengqingshuangdereyin，danyeneirenshirenweizheibuguoshi“pinpaifangweilehuanjiejiamengshangdejiaolvertichudeshuoci”，shijishangzaireyinlingyu，xiaofeizhekexuanzedechayinpinpaigengduo，ningmengchapinpaigenbenmeiyoujingzhengli。

lingyifangmian，chengshiwendudechayizhijiedaoxianglepinpaixuanzhidewenti。zaibeifangdiqu，xiaofeizhezaidongjichuanzhehouzhongdeyurongfujinrudainuanqideshangchanghou，duilengyindexuqiucaihuiyousuozengjia，danzheiyeyiweizhepinpaizaixuanzhishigengshouxianzhi，gengqingxiangxuanzeshangchangdian，yinweitamentigongleyigexiangduiwennuanqiekeliuliangdadehuanjing。danzheibujinduiziyuanjichengbenyaoqiugenggao，yemianlingengduojingzheng。muqian，beifangdechengshushangyequ，pubianyijingbeigeleizonghechayinpinpaiqiangzhan。

jinnian，zheixieshichangshangdechayinjutoumenyeguanchadaolexifendeningmengchazengzhangqushi，zhengzaitongguotuichudijianingmengchalaizhengduoshichangfenehexiaofeizhedezhuyili。

duojiaoguanchafaxian，dangqian，ruixing、mixuebingcheng、gumingdengkafeidian、naichadianjunyoushouningmengchaleichanpin，qiedafudujingjia，youdepinpaishenzhijiangningmengchadejiageyadizhi10yuannaizhi4yuanyibei，zhijiechongjizhuanzhuyuningmengchadechuileipinpai。liru，ningjidezhaopaiyashixiangningmengchajiage20yuanyibei，yuelaiyueduoxiaofeizhebiaoshinanyijieshou，“buruqumai4yuandemixuebingcheng”。

“keyiyujiandeshi，jinniandehuanjingxia，daliangbeishangdeningmengchajiamengshangjiangmianlin‘handong’，shenzhikenengzaiciyinfayibodaobichao。”wangmiaobiaoshi。

zhanzaidangxiajinyibuguancha，chayinshichangdemingxianqushishixingyeneibuliudongxingdejiangdiheneixunhuandejiaju。

guoqu，naichajiamengshangzhongbufameiyoujingyandexinshouxiaobai，danjinnianzheizhongqingkuangbiandeshaojian。yiweizishenjiamengshangxiangwomentoululexingyedexianzhuang，“jinianqiankaichabaidaodejiamengshang，jinniankenengyoukaileguminghuozhehushangayidengqitapinpai，zheixierenbuhuiguanbiyuanlaidedianpuershizhuantouqukaixindian，jingyingduogepinpai。”

yejiuyiweizhe，shichangshangdexinzengcanyuzhezhengzaijianshao，tianpingchaozhedajiamengshangqingxie。

“womenjianguodejiamengshangzhong，shenzhiyourenjingyingzhe1000duojiaruixingkafei。nengzhuandekeyiyizhizhuan，zhishaobukui。wanbuxiaqudejiupeiqian，lichang。dianshiyuelaiyueduode，renshiyuelaiyueshaode，meiyouxinzengdehuoshuijinlai。hepinpaiyiyang，jiamengshangyeshiyigecunliangshichang。dangxiaoxiamibeichidiao，shengxiadejiuzhiyoudayudebosha。”