wen | yuansight anran
congyinglunguizudaoaolaihuanghou,mouzhongchengdushang,burberrykeyishuoshixinyilunshechipinxingyexipaizhongdediyigexishengpin。
jinri,yingguoshechipingongsi burberry jituangongbu2025shangbancainianyeji,jiezhi9yue28ride26zhounei, jituanzongyingshoutongbixiajiang22%zhi10.86yiyingbang,angudinghuilvjisuantongbixiajiang20%;jingdiaozhengjingyingkuisun4100wanyingbang,shangniantongqiweiyingli2.2yiyingbang。
shishishang,jinnianlaiburberryzaoyiyinyunlongzhao,bujinheqitashepaiyiyangmianlinquanqiushechipinxiaofeipiruandekunjing,zishenyeshiwentichanshen。
zaiyejieyuxiaofeizheduiqipinpailaohua、chuangyipifadezhiyishengzhong,burberrywuniansancihuanshuai,qitutongguogaocengbiangedaidongpinpaichuangxin,bingtongguotijiadengshouduanjinyibuxianggaoduanhuabenqu。2018nian,shirenburberry ceo demarco gobettibiaoshi,burberryweilaiyinggaixianggenggaoduandeshechipinpaijinhua,zhongxinnahuijiagezhudaoquan。
ranerzhongzhenjihuashouxiaoshenwei。zaijingjizengsufanghuan、xiaofeiriqujinshendedangxia,fazhanluxianyouxiemangmudeburberryshoudangqichong,shoudaoxingyehanliudechongji。
youyisideshi,zaiquanqiudiqumendianxiaoshouefenfenxiahuadeshi,burberryaotelaisimendianquechengxianyipaihuorejingxiang,shenzhibigaipinpaideershemaishoudiangengchixiang。
buguo,jinguanqiaolaidianxiaoshoushimeng,duanshijianneiweipinpaitigongbufenlirunzhicheng,danlingyifangmian,daliangjinzhuaolaidianyebuduanxiaojieburberryzaixiaofeizhexinzhongdepinpaijiazhigan,shiqitijiajucuonanyiweiji,shepaigaoduanxingxiangbuduanshoudaoxueruo。
zaizuixincaibaofabuhou,burberryshangrenbuzubanniandexinceo joshua schulmanxuanbugengxingongsizhanlve,jiangyi“burberry forward”weihexin,jujiaopinpaijingdianhewaitaopinlei,jiangdipijushoujia,youhuapifaheaolaiqudao。
raner,jinjijiuzhengdeburberry,qianfangyijiuchongmanweizhishu。
冰火两重天
burberryshibenlunshechipinhanchaoshouchongjizuiyanzhongdeshepaizhiyi。
2025shangbancainian,burberryzaiquanqiuzhuyaodiqumendianxiaoshouyewufenfenkuitui。shujuxianshi,baogaoqinei,burberrykebimendianxiaoshouetongbixiajiang20%。qizhong,yataidiqutongbixiajiang25%;emeia(ouzhou、zhongdongheyindudiqu)tongbixiajiang13%;meizhoudiqutongbixiajiang21%。
yuzhixiangbi,faguoshechipinjutoulvmhzai2024cainiandisanjidushouruxiadie4.4%zhi190.7yiouyuan。danshi,chuyazhou(bubaohanriben)yiwai,lvmhzaimeiguo、ouzhoudengjunshixianzengzhang。youqizairibendiqu,lvmhqiansanjiduyoujishourudazhang36%,meiguoshichangyoujizengzhang1%,ouzhoushichangyoujizengzhang3%。
ciwai,jinguanguccimugongsikaiyunjituan2024niandisanjiduyingshoutongbixiahua15%zhi37.86yiouyuan,guccipinpaidisanjidushouruxiahua26%,qietongyangmianduiqudaofenxiaotiaozhanjijiannanshichanghuanjing,dankaiyunjituanrengyoubottega venetadengpinpaidandangtuidongzengzhangdehoubeililiang。youkaiyuntuodi,biqijinkaodanpinpaifazhandeburberry,gucciderizihaisuanhaoguo。
jinnian7yue,juyingguomeiti《meiridianxunbao》baodao,burberryyinyejibiaoxianqianjia,jiangdaliangcaijiangongzuogangwei。xiangguanbaodaocheng,burberryquanqiuyuangonggongyou9169ren,cicicaiyuanyugujiangzhuyaoyingxiangyingguoyuangong。julejie,burberryshangyiluncaiyuanfashengzai2020nian,yinyiqingyalicaijianle500ren,yijiesheng5500wanyingbangchengben。
ciwai,yejicandandeburberryhaixianru“maishen”yiyun。jujinriyingguoweibaoxiaoxi,yidalishechipinjituanmoncleryouyishougouburberry。raner,monclerduiyuzheiyichuanwenbuyuzhiping,chengbuhuidui“weijingzhengshideyaoyan”fabiaopinglun。
jinguanburberryzaigaojishangchangxiaoshoulengdan,danzaiaolaimaichangqueshitouhuore。bingqie,burberrydeaolaidianshuliangzaishepaizhongyiqijuechen,yizhibeixiaofeizhexichengwei“aolaihuanghou”。
caibaoshujuxianshi,jiezhi9yue28ri,burberryzaiguoqubannianxinkai19jiamendian,guanbi12jia,muqianquanqiuzhiyingmendiangongyou429jia,erburberryaolaimendianjiuchaoguo50jia。
jibiantongyangbeigoubing“aolaizhuangong”degucci,aolaidianzhanbiyeburuburberry。2023nian,gucciquanqiumendianwei538jia,qizhong47jiashiaolaimendian,zhanbibuzu10%。kaiyunjituanyebiaoshi,yiyoujihuajianshaoqixiachanpinzhekouyugucciaolaidiandeshuliang。
burberryaolaimendiannengdaxingqidao,yupinpaifangjiangdikucun,jianshaochengbenyitigaolirunyouguan。
yifangmian,jujoshua schulmanzhichu,burberry mianlin “yanzhongdekucunguosheng”wenti,eraolaidianchanpinjiagejiaodigengshouhuanying,youzhuyuxiaomiekucun。youshishangmaishouxiangyuansighttoulu,burberryyuanjia3000ouyuanzuoyoudewaitao,300ouyuanzuoyoujiunengdaoshou,jiejin1zhedejudazhekoulidu,rangaolaiburberrybiqiersheburberryhaichixiang。
lingyifangmian,juhuifengyinxingguji,burberrylaiziaolaidiandexiaoshouezhanbigaoda30%,erjinglirunzhanbigengshidadao60%。xiangjiaoyugaojishangchangmendian,aolaidianwuluncongxiaoshoulianghaishichengbenzhichushang,dougengzhanyoushi。
dantongshi,zaiaolaidiandehuoreshitouyeranggandaoburberrybuan。duikuaixiaofushilaishuo,jiyadekucunchanpinkuaisuqingxiaoduipinpaiyingxiangbingbuda,yinweipinpaibingbuduichanpindefujiashuxingfuze。
danduibiaobangshechipindepinpailaishuo,daliangchanpinxiangaotelaisiqingxie,nanmianhuirangxiaofeizhechanshengqiyuanjiayuchanpinjiazhibingbupipeidexiangfa。
“henduoquniandekuanshijinnianjiudadao2zhezuoyou”“sheizhengjiamailezheijiandouhuixiangbapinpailaheiba”……yuansightfaxian,zaimouxieshejiaopingtaishang,pinfandazhedeburberryyeyinfaxiaofeizheyilun。
aolaiburberrydefanlan,rangburberryzuoweishepaidexuanyaoshuxing、baozhishuxingdaweibiansun,bujinduiyishouchanpinxiaoshouzaochengchongji,yeshipinpaidegaoduanxingxiangzhujianxishi。
积重难返
burberryde“yanzhongkucunguosheng”wentijiyayijiu。
chuququanqiujingjifanghuanduixingyedepubianyingxiang,burberryzishenmangmudechanpincelveshizaochengzheiyiwentidezhuyaoyuanyin,yingxiangzuidade,jiushiqijinnianlaidejijintijiajucuo,yijiquefaguihuadeshejidingwei。
joshua schulmantancheng,“burberryguoqujinianjianzhuanxingchuxiandezuidawentishiguoduzhuiqiujijiexingshishangqushiyijiguoduzhangjia。zheisuozhailepinpainenggoujiechudaodeshouzhongrenqun,yeshiqiyuanbenxingxiangbiandemohu。”
2017nian,marco gobbettishangrenburberryshouxizhixingguan,bingrenmingriccardo tiscidanrenchuangyizongjian。ju《nvzhuangribao》baodao,marco gobbettishangrenchuqibianrenweipinpaidedingjiameiyouchongfenfanyingchuqidaibiaodeshechijiazhi。burberryweilaiyinggaixianggenggaoduanjinhua,zhongxinnahuijiagezhudaoquan。
2022nian,zaimarco gobbettihericcardo tiscilirenzhihou,jierendejonathan akeroydjixu“shangwei”celve,zaidaniel leeshangrenchuangyizongjianhoutuichudechanpinshoujiayegenggao。juboensitandecesuan,zaichuangyizongjiandaniel leezhixia,burberrytuichudexinshoudaipingjunbijiukuangui58%。
ranerzheiyijucuobingweizouxiao。zuoweierxianshechipinpai,burberrypinpaijiazhigenjibusuanwen,xiangjiaoyuaimashi、xiangnaierdeng,chanpinshejijipinzhishangbugouchucai,chanpintouzishuxingjiaoruo,quefazhichizhangjiadepinpaijichu。
qiangxingzhangjiahoudeburberrynanyitigongjixiaofeizhewuchaosuozhidetiyangan,jishuyuanleyuanxiandezhulizhongchanxiaofeizhe,duifuyuxiaofeizhedexiyinliyebugouda,gaojiachanpinzhixiaodejiejuyejiuhenrongyiyujian。
qici,chixubuduandegaoqiangduchuangyishejishishixianpinpaizengzhangdequdongli。
截图来源于Burberry天猫旗舰店
danzuoweidanshengyu1856deshechipinpai,burberryyijinghenzhangshijianmeiyoubaokuanchansheng。qifazhanluxian,yelingrenganjuehunluan。
zhongsuozhouzhi,burberryyifengyiwenming,ranerzaihouxufazhanzhong,chanpincezhongkuozhanzhibaodaiyuxielv,bingzaihouzheshangqingzhubushaojingli,tongguojiagediaozhengdengshouduanxianghuoqugengduoxiaofeizhezhuyili,qiangduoshichangfene,ranerqibaodaiyuxielvyingxianglijingzhenglibuzu,fanerdaozhixiaofeizheduipinpailuxiandingweichanshengkunhuo。
xiangbizhixia,zhijinlianxushijigejiduludegaozengzhangdemiumiu,pingjiechuangyisheji,jizhongduolaopaishepaishangleyike。
ciwai,pinfanbiandongdegaocengyerangburberrychongmanbuwendingyinsu——jihumeiyirenshejizongjiandoudailaixinlogo,congyiqiandezhanmalogodaolaohuatb,zaidaodaniel leedelansezhanma。duixiaofeizhelaishuo,daodishenmedaibiaoburberryxiandejinanbianren,qiduiburberryderenzhiyebiandemohu。
zhijin,burberryzaiyeneirengmianlin“youjingdian、meibaokuan”deganga,zaoyupinpaibianshidubuzu、pinpailaohuadeweiji。
紧急纠正
shixingqiadangdejiagekongzhichengweidangxiashechipinxingyedegongshi。
zaiyidalishechipinxingyexiehuijinqijubande2024niandudahuishang,pradajituanshouxizhixingguan andrea guerra biaoshi,shechipinxingyezhishaoyaoweizijidangqiandekunjingdanfubufenzeren。tarenwei,yixieshechipinpaiguodutigaolerumenchanpinjiage,guodupianlilepinpaidedingwei,bingqiemeiyouyouxiaokongzhichengben。
andrea guerra cheng,“jinnianlai,(shechipinxingyezai)dingjiashangchuxianleyigejudadecuowu。jinjinyinwei(tijia)rongyi(caozuo)jiudafutigaodingjia,zheishiyigecuowu。erqiewomenweinengrangxiaofeizhezhenzhengaishangwomendechanpin,yizhiyutamenganshoudaolejiageyujiazhizhijiandebupipei,zheishiwomengongzuozhongdezuidashibai。”
kongjiayeshidangxiashichangshoujin、xiaofeishousuotichudekeguanxuyao。
genjubeienzixunyanjiubaogao,yuji2024nianquanqiushechipinzhichujin1.5wanyiouyuan,yuqunianxiangbizaixiadie1%daozengzhang1%zhijian。qizhong,quanqiugerenshechipinshichangjianganshijihuilvxiajiang2%zhi3630yiouyuan。
beienhehuorenfederica levatobiaoshi,chuquyiqingzhiwai,zheishizi2008nianjinrongweijiyilaigerenshechipinxingyeshoucichuxianxiahua,chuangxialishizuidishuiping。
joshua schulmanzhichu,jinnianlai,burberryguoduzhuiqiu“pinpaitisheng”,tigaojiage,shuyuanlekehu,jiangshichangdingweipianxiangyigegengxiazhaidexiaofeizhequnti。zheigezhanlveshiwujiajulequanqiushechipinxuqiuweisuodeyingxiang,youqibiaoxianzaiburberrydezhongyaoxiaofeiqunti——zhongguoxiaofeizhezhizhong。
2025shangbancainian,burberryzhongguodalukebimendianxiaoshouetongbixiajiang24%(q1xiajiang21%,q2xiajiang27%),zaiquanqiufanweinei,zhongguokehuquntidexiaofeiexiajianglejinliangweishu,guojishichangdierjidudebiaoxianjixuhaoyuzhongguodalu。
yanjianjulunjijiangzhuangxiangbingshan,7yuelinweishoumingdejoshua schulmanjimangzhuanduo,zaizuixinjiducaiwushujugongbuhou,qidongmingwei“burberry forward”quanxinzhanlvejihua。
zheiyizhanlvezhuyaocongqianghuapinpaixingxiang,jiashenpinpaiyinjikaishi。genjuguihua,burberryjiangzhongxinjujiaoyuwaitaoheweijin,jinguanyiqianzheilianggepinleiyingaodushiyongxing、rumenshuxingdengbeirenweishiqigenggaoduanhuadezuai,danjoshua schulmanrenweitamendaibiaolepinpaigenyuanhexingxiang,“zaiwaitaoheweijinleibiezhongjuyouquanweixing,zaizheiyishiqiyeyizhibaochizherenxing”。
qicishikongjiafangmian。genju《huaerjieribao》baodao,burberrycong2024niannianzhongkaishixiadiaobufenchanpinshoujia,joshua schulmandegaigejinyibumingquegaicelvedeluodi。weilai,burberrydeshoudaishoujiajiangjizhongzai1500-2000yingbangzhijian,ciqianjizhongyu2000yingbangzuoyou,gaojiashoudaizaigaipinleizhongdezhanbijiangwei5%-15%。
yucitongshi,joshua schulmanhaixuanbuqidongchengbenjieyuejihua,yihoumeinianjiesheng4000wanyingbang(bencainianjiangjiesheng2500wanyingbang),bingjiangjinkuaijiejuekucunguoshengwenti,huifuchanpinxiquexing。
“woshangrendetoujigeyuerangwozaicijianxin,burberry shiyigefeifandeshechipinpai,juyoudianxingdeyingguotese,jianjuchuantonghechuangxin。”jinguanjiangdailingburberry“jieyisuoshi”,joshua schulmanduiweilairengbaoyileguan。
“womenzuijindebiaoxianbujiayuanyujigeyinsu,baokuopinpaizhixingbuyizhiyijiquefaduiwomendehexinwaitaoleibiehehexinkehuqundeguanzhu。jintian,womenzhengjinjicaiquxingdong,jiuzhengfangxiang,wendingyewu,rangburberryzhongfankechixudeyinglizengzhang。”
评论