wen  | huaerjiekejiyan houqijiang

bianji  | ccsuncongying guochuyu

各位读者：

周末好！

应广大读者需求，《华尔街科技眼》已开设《科技眼·看世界》栏目。该栏目将以图片形式展示包括中国在内的全球各地的商业活动、科技景观、风土人情。该栏目将在每周末与大家见面，让轻松的视觉盛宴陪各位读者度过每一个周末。

本期我们将带大家来到巴尔干地区的核心，欧洲亚洲交界处，塞尔维亚首都贝尔格莱德，探寻这座历史悠久的东欧城市中中国商业的影子。

jinglilecongnansilafudaosaierweiyadelishibiange，huashangzaidongoukaizhisanyefazhandeguochengyerongheyudiyuanzhengzhidebianhuazhong。erjinqi，suizhezhongguoyusaierweiyaguojiaguanxidejinyibujiaqiang，saierweiyachengweizhuduozhongguoqiyechuhaidemudedizhiyi。

zuoweibaergandiqudezhongxin，saierweiyayoujiulishiyuqifuzadediyuanzhengzhixianghujiaodie，guojishangmaohuodongzaicichenfuyugong，yushehui、zhengzhidengyinsujiaorongzuoyong。zaozainansilafushidai，huashangjiuyijinggaidiqujiaoliuhuoyue，dansuizheshangshijinansilafujieti、kesuowozhanzhengdengyixiliediyuanchongtu，shijichudeguojijinrongweijiheouzhouzhuquanzhaiwuweijidengyixiliehuanjingdebianhua，saierweiyadiqudehuarenyidujianshaozhishuqianren。

shijichu，saierweiyazhongyubaituo“baerganhuoyaotong”dejushi，jinershinianlaiyinglaiwendingfazhanshiqi，jingjifazhandexuqiucuishenggengduodeshangyejihui。youqizaizhongguodeyidaiyiluchangyi、2016nianzhongsaiqianshurujinghumianqianzhengxieyidengyinsuzuoyongxia，zhongsaiguanxibuduanshengwen，saierweiyachengweizhongguoqiye“chuhai”deyouyiremenmudedi。zhongguoshangrenzaizheiyidutedediyuanzhengzhiheshangyehuanjingzhongzhagengengyun，chengweilingyidaobutongdeshangyefengjing。

首都贝尔格莱德-城市风貌

图：于多瑙河对岸遥望贝尔格莱德要塞

图：水上贝尔格莱德，刚刚开业的瑞吉酒店，后面的工地是正在开建设的更多的高层住宅

2024nianqiuji，womenlaidaosaierweiyashoudoubeiergelaide。sawaheheduonaohezaizheilihuiju，lianghejiaohuichufujin，budanbaoliuyouyuanziguluomashiqidejunshiyaosai，yeyoujifuxiandaiqixidegangkaizhangderuijijiudian。zaisawaheliangan，beiergelaidebeifenwei“xinbei”he“laobei”。laochengqushizhijinrengshichengshihexin，renkoumiji，baoliuzhedaliangdeguluoma、aoxiongdiguodeshidaiyifeng，niandaiyoujiudelaofangzichengpiancunzai。bendizuizhumingdeyitiaoshangyedajieshiziluomashiqibaocunzhijinde。yiweisaierweiyapengyougaosuwo，jinguanliqingshibandaitilenitushizi，danzheitiaojiedezouxianghetadegongnengyizhiwanhaodibaoliuzhijin，neishihourenmenjiuzaizheilijinxingjiaoyile。

图：粗野主义的代表建筑——Genex塔

erbeiergelaidexinchengquzezaierzhanzhihouguihua，tashoudaonansilafushidaigongchanzhuyideqianglieyingxiang，yindaliangde“cuyezhuyi”jianzhuerwenming，qiangdiaoxiaolv、kongjianliyonghegonggongshenghuo，qudiaoleyiqiebubiyaodezhuangshihetese。ranersuizheshidaibianqian，zheiliyejianzhenglenansilafudejietiheyixilieshidaidebiange。rujin，huaweijudadesanxinglogozhuliyuxinbeikaiyuejiudianfujindeyichufeiqigongchang。shijishang，xiaomi、zhongxing、haixin……gezhonggeyangdezhongguopinpailogohuizaijiejiaobujingyizhijianchuxian。

图：飞机城

lingyigexindebangongyuanqu“jichangcheng”（airport city）zeshigaiguodiyigeshangyeyuanqu，tashibeiergelaidezuixindezhongyangshangwuqu，xuduozhongguogongsizaizheilizhuzhabangong。tayebeisaierweiyarenchengwei“chengzhongzhicheng”。zhisuoyijiaozuo“jichangcheng”，yeshiyinweinansilafushidaizheilicengjingshizhongyaodejunyongjichang，zhandoujihehongzhajizaizheilitingfang，tayouzaizhanzhengzhongbeicuihui，houlaiyoubeizhongjian。

图：街头涂鸦

图：街头涂鸦

raner，bulunshixinchenghaishijiucheng，chengqugechu，geleijianzhudeqiangtifugaizhehuojingmeihuogexingdejietoutuya。chulebentugeyao、shishichuanshuo、tonghuadengwenhuazuopin，zheixietuyayejinianzhezhanshideyoujiduiyuan、zhumingdezuqiuyundongyuan、gongxianzhuoyuedekexuejiadengdeng，chengweizhanshisaierweiyarenminzurentong、ziyoujingshenhechuangzaolidejuejiachuangkou。lishizhanghezhongdezheizuochengshijinglilecangsangerbanbo，yexingchengledutedeshangyehuanjing。

华商在塞尔维亚

shoudaoshangshijimobeiyueduinanlianmengdehongzhayingxiang，yijisuihoushoudaojin10niandezhicai，ouzhoudeshangyeshengtaiduisaierweiyashizhishangcaiqulegulihefengsuo。saierweiyajingjishoudaozhongchuang、yiduwuziquefa，putongrenshenghuokunnan。erhuashangqueconglingyimianbushanglezheiyiquekou。zaijintiandesaierweiya，fangzhiriyongpin、jiajuqichelingjiandengzhongguozhizaochanpinzaojiushisaierweiyarenshenghuozhongdebukehuoque，zhongxing、huawei、xiaomidengzhongguodianzikejipinpaideyingzizaibeiergelaidesuichukejian；zaikuangye、zhizaoyeshangliangguodeguanxiyerijianjinmi。“neishihoulagexinglilaidoukeyizhuandaobushaoqian，zhiyaobupaxinku，jiuhaishikeyizheiyangpao。”yiweiyijingzaisaierweiyadapin30niandehuashanghuiyiyoushisuifuqinlaicidijingshangdejingli，“zheiliyiduhenqueshangpinherichangshenghuowuzi。”

图：米哈伊洛大公街，是贝尔格莱德最有名的步行商业街和旅游景点

zaidangdi，zuiyoumingdehuashangjujidi，shibeiergelaidexinchengqu“70haobaihuolingpizongheshangchang”。qizhongzuilaodejianzhujianyu1997nian，zheilideshangpinyiqingfang、riyongpinweizhu。yinweiwumeijialianqiemanzuputongrenrichangshenghuoxuqiu，zheiliyexiyinlezhoubianheishan、aerbaniyadengguodeshangren，chongmanminjianhuoli，chengweizuichuhuashangwaimaowanglaideqiaotoubao。

rongrubendibingburongyi。“saierweiyayouzheyoujiufuzalishi，yuzhoubianguojiademinzuguanxiyeyidubijiaojinzhang，zheiduitamendexinggehenyouyingxiang。bendirenchunposhanliang，dantamendeminzujingshenliyeyoujiaoaomingan、gaozizundeyimian。”yiweixuezhezaijiaoliuzhongtanjigerendeganshou。yinweiliangguoguanxiyouhao，zheiliduizhongguorenshifenyoushan，zhongguoshangpinwumeijialian，zhongguoshangrenqinlaonenggan，danshiwenhuabujinxiangtong，zaishangyeguimokuozhangyufazhan、pinpaihuadengfangmianyemianlinqitaouzhouguojiashenzhieluosidejingzheng，shangyefangmiandebileibingbushineimeqingyinenggoudapode。suizhehuashangshushinianlaidegengyunnuli，yijijinqizhongguozaidianzikejichanpinfangmianqudedechengjiu，zhongguopinpaiyijingzhujianzaizheilijueqi。

图：著名的泽蒙小镇最高点Gardos Tower。这里曾经是匈牙利帝国边境的军事重镇，今天则充满了古朴和复古的气息。

jinianqian，youyuouzhouyiqingbaofa，bushaoyicanyin、chaoshi、xiaoshangpinlingshouweizhuyedehuashangyiduzaoshoudaji，xuduoshangyehuodongxianrutingzhi，danrujinzhengchangshenghuohuifu。jintian，zaibeiergelaidexinchengzhong，yigedaxingdebaihuolingpishangchang——ouyashangmaozhongxinganggangkaiye。gaishangmaozhongxindechuangjianzheshiyiduizhejiangxiongdi，dianxingdesaierweiyahuashang，tamenzaiershinianqianjiulai70haobaihuolingpizongheshangchangdedangkoubaitan，zhubufazhanzhijin。

saierweiyahuashangquntizhong，yizheshangzuiweiyouming，erqizhongdaduoshulaizizhejiangdelishui、wenzhouhejinhuadengdi。womenluodihoudediyizhan，benxiangyaodingzaiyijia“qingtiancanting”，danqueyinweiqisuozaidezhengtiaojiedoutingdianerweinengchengxing，danzaisuihoudelvtuzhongfaxianqingtianshangrendeshenyingwuchubuzai。“jiushanbanshuibanfentian”，zhejiangguxiangshanduotianshaodedilizhuangtaifaneryunyuchulezheshangyuanshezhongyangganchuangganpindefengge，chengweirujinqingtian“jiajiayouhuaqiao、cuncunyouqiaoshang”dexianxiang，ersaierweiyashidongoudongqujizhongdezheshangjuejinmudedi。yiweirujinshiyeyijingfazhanpojuguimodehuashanghuiyidangnianxiaotandao：“womenneishihoubujiao‘chuhai’，doushiyiqiongerbailaigenzhefuqinjinhuo、paohuo。”

图：中国驻南斯拉夫联盟共和国大使馆旧址

duiyuzhongguoreneryan，tidaosaierweiya，qiannansilafu，zuixiangdaoderengranshifashengyu1999niankesuowozhanzhengzhongmeiguohongzhazhongguozhunanlianmengdashiguanshijian。rujinzhongguozhunansilafulianmenggongheguodashiguanjiuzhiqianrengranbaimanxianhua，xuduozhongguoyoukeyeqianlaipingdiao。ciwai，zhiqiandeshiguanjiuzhiyijingbianchengle“zhongguowenhuajiaoliuzhongxin”，dalouwailimianquzhongguoshanshuizhizaoxing，zaibeiergelaideyeduxiantebie。

高物价与慢生活并存

daojintian，congzhiguantiganshangeryan，beiergelaidedeminjianshangyezhong“maimaimai”debufenbujizhongguoerxianchengshifada，baokuodianshanghewaimaizaineidexianshangshangyeyebuxiangzhongguoguoneizheiyangpuji。suodaozhichu，renmendeshenghuoxiangduixiansan，jiejiaodekafeitingshushianyi。womentediqulesaierweiyazuidadegaoduanshangchang，yexianyouguorenshuzhideyixianshechipinpinpai。

yucitongshi，beiergelaidehaochengshiyouquanshijiezuihaodeyeshenghuodechengshizhiyi，zhanshididaogaizaodedixiajiubahepiaofuyuduonaohezhishangdechuanwujulebuxiyinquanqiulaike。zaisaierweiyadierdachengshinuoweisade，ouzhouzuidadeyinlejie“chukou”（exit）meinianzaibideluowaladingchengbaoyaosaizhongjuban，kuanghuanhuichixushuri，yingjiechaoguo20wanyouke。

图：远眺全世界最大的东正教教堂：圣萨瓦大教堂

pengyouyaoqingwoxiaozhuo，yelibuxingyubeiergelaideshiqujietou。xiantanjiantabiaoshizuoweibendirenyefeichangzhenxikeyisuiyizaiyejianbuxingyubeiergelaideshiqudeshenghuo：“yuneixiegengfadadeouzhouguojiaxiangbi，saierweiyagenganquan，meiyourenhuicongxiangzilituranchulaiqiangjie。”

danzheibudaibiaomeiyoutiaozhan。youyusaierweiyajingjifazhanyuanburuxiou，saierweiyaderencai，youqishijishurencaihezhuanyegongzuozhehenrongyizaishourugenggaodexiouguojiazhaodaogongzuoqieyimin。saierweiyabendiyemianlinzherencailiushihelaolinghuadetiaozhan。lingyifangmian，laizizhoubianyouqishixiyajingjigengchadiqudelaogongkaishimibubendishengchanlidebuzu。

图：马路路口表演杂技的吉普赛人

genjuzuixindeshuju，saierweiyajiatingpingjunnianshouruwei3753meiyuan，danfangzuyejugaobuxia。genjushenghuochengbenxiezuoshujuku，shoudoubeiergelaidexiaoxingdanshengongyuzujinpingjun800meiyuanmeiyue，dayixiedesanjushigongyudepingjunyuezujinwei1500meiyuan。bendidenianqingrenyehuibaoyuanshenghuochengbendeshangzhang。wojiechudaodelingyiweibendipengyoucongshikejijinrongxingye。“wocengzaieluosigongzuolesinian，danewuchongtukaishijiuhuidaoguxiangzuoshuziyiminle。yeyoudaliangeluosirenlaidaosaierweiya，zheilidefangzuzhangdelipu。duiyuwaiguoren，fangzuhuibibendirengenggui。”

“shanggezhoumo，xuexiaodelaoshiyeganggangshangjieyouxing，fanduigongzitaidi。zaibeiergelaide，youxingshihenzhengchangde，womenyedouxiguanle。”wujiagaozhangsuoyourendouyousuotihui，bendirengengshiduidadaxiaoxiaodeyouxingsikongjianguan。

neiduiyuneixierengranzaibendigongzuoderen，tamenruhechengshouzheiyangdewujia？pengyouhuidadao，saierweiyarenreaitiyuheyundong，zhongshijiatingheshequshenghuo，yibeikafeikeyihepengyouliaoyizhengtian，butaibapinfandexiaofeishizuolisuodangran。ruguojialiyouzhufangmeiyoudaikuan，neimeyejiuhaishuodeguoqu。

jinnianlaisaierweiyashibaergandiqugdpzengzhangzuikuaisudeguojia，suizhezhengzhihuanjingdezhujianwendinghejingjidexinyilunfazhan，gengduodechaichuhezhongjianzhengzaifasheng。qizhongzuizhumingdexiangmuzhiyishiyoualianqiukaifashangjianshedehaohuagaocengshequshuishangbeiergelaide，qianwentijideruijijiudianjiushuyuzheiyiquyu。tazuoluoyusawahepan，yuanlaishizhumingdesawamalajiequ，yuanyoudeshushizuolishijianzhuchaichuxiaoshi，xinkaifadegengduodegaocengzhuzhaizeyijingwangongdaishou。zheilidefangjiagaoqi，yuanyuanchaoguofujindeqitaminju，chengweiwaiguoshangrenheshangcengshehuiderementouzibiaode。erbendimeitizhize“zhengfujiangzheizuochengshidelishihewenhuachumaijichujiazuigaoderen”。

woxunwenwobendipengyoudekanfa，tatankaishouxinshuo：“zaisaierweiya，yiqiedoushifuyouzhengyide。”