wen | 《zhongguoqiyejia》 tanliping

编辑 | 张昊

yijingdiecheng“baicaijia”dehpv（renrutouliubingdu）yimiao，jiangjiantoumiaozhunlenanxingqunti。

jinri，wantaishengwugonggaocheng，yijingshoudaoleguojiayaopinjianduguanlijuxiafade《yaowulinchuangshiyantongzhishu》，tongyigongsijiujiahpvyimiaokaizhanzhenduinanxingrenqunshiyingzhengdelinchuangshiyan。

zheibingfeiguoneishoukuanhuopilinchuangdenanxinghpvyimiao，guoneibijiaozaozuogaipinzhongdekangleweishihuiying《zhongguoqiyejia》cheng，qichanpinguanxianyijingjinrusanqilinchuangshiyan，yiwanchengjuedaduoshushoushizhededi12geyuefangshi，qieyiqidongdi18geyuefangshi。

qunian2yue，kangleweishizaibeijiaosuoguapai，zhaogushuzhongcheng，nanxingjiujiahpvyimiaoyujiyu2028nianhuopishangshi。ciwai，boweishengwuzai2022nian9yueyeqidongletongleichanpindeyiqilinchuangshiyan。moshadongxianfayoushimingxian，gaichanpinzaiguoneideshangshishenqingyihuodeshouli。

jizheguanchadao，zaiyixiejiankangpingtaishang，yijingchuxianle“nanxingjiujiahpvyimiaoyuyuedingyue”deyemian。buguo，yuyueyemianxianshi，chanpinhaiweizhengshihuopi，“ruodingyuedediqukaifangyuyuejiezhong，pingtaijianghuijishitongzhinin。”

hpvyimiaoshicengjingde“wanghongyimiao”，xianzaizaoyi“liuliang”buzai。

2018nian4yue，zhifeishengwudujiadailidemoshadongjiujiahpvyimiaojinruzhongguoshichanghou，yidugongbuyingqiu，shenzhi“42wanrenyaohaozhongqianlvbuzu2%”。henduoyonghubudebuquxianggang，huozhechuguojiezhong。neigeshichangguoyuyouren，2020nian，shijieweishengzuzhitichu，194gechengyuanguodao2030nian，yaoshixian90%denvhaizai15suizhiqianwanchenghpvyimiaojiezhongdemubiao。

danguoquliangnian，shichangjubian。yifangmian，moshadongdechannengfangliang，yijingjibengongyingchongzu；lingyifangmian，jikuanguochanerjiamiaoluxushangshizhihou，daqijiagezhan，zhengfucaigoujiacongmeizhenshubaiyuandoujiangzhijishiyuan。jinnian8yue，wosenshengwudeerjiamiaozhongbiaoshandongshengjibingyufangkongzhizhongxindecaigou，danzhijiagezhiyao27.5yuan，bianchengle“yibeinaichadeqian”，danyirandangbuzhuxiaoliangtuishi。

nanxingyonghuquntishixinde“gushi”。zaiqiyedeshexiangzhong，zheishiyigeshiyijiezhongguimochaoguo3yiren，jin10yiyimiaojicidedashichang。danzaigengchengshudeoumeishichang，nanxingquntiyinweiganranhpv“buzhisi”，fugaiduyaoyuanchayunvxingshichang。

gedayimiaochangshangyijingkaishizaishejiaopingtaishang“yure”，xiaoshoucelvehaishiweiraonvxingyonghu，youtamenlai“juece”weiqilingyibanjiezhonghpvyimiao。lujingsuiranrao，dankeyizuidahuafahuicunliangnvxingyonghudejiazhi。

zaishejiaopingtaishang，zhuduonvxingyonghuzaixiangguantiezidepinglunqu“aite”nanyoujiezhonghpvyimiao。youcongyezhecheng，chanpinshangshizhihou，nanxinghpvyimiaoyoukenenghuibeidangchenghunqian“bibeixiang”，xiangshichangdaguimotuichu。

01 “模糊”的男性市场

xianjieduan，zaiguoneishangshideerjia、sijia、jiujiahpvyimiaoli，qishiyingzhengdoumingqueweinvxing，nanxingxuzhuanxiangxianggang、aomenjiezhong。

chanpinhaiweishangshi，danbingbufangaireduxianqilai。shejiaopingtaishang，xiangguandekepu、taolunbingbushao。younanxingbozhufenxianglezijiqianwangxianggangjiezhonghpvyimiaodegonglve，“guanwangyuyuehenfangbian，keyizhijieyuediertian。shuangshiyiyouhuijia3630gangyuansanzhen。zaishatianhejianshaju，jiaotongfangbian。”shenzhiyouwangyoubiaoshi，zheishinanxingjinvyouzuihaode“liwu”，zijiquda，rang“baohu”gengchedi。

duiyunanxinghpvyimiaoshichang，xuduoyimiaogongsidou“leguan”diyongleyizushuju：shaliwenshujuxianshi，2020nianquanqiushiyijiezhonghpvyimiaodenanxingguimo（9suizhi45sui）wei21.51yiren，yujidao2025nian，jiangzengzhangzhi22.28yiren。zaizhongguo，2020niangaishuziwei3.44yiren，dadaowanquanjiezhongsuoxudeyimiaoyuewei9.8yijici。

zheizushuzicongmianyixuedejiaodulaikan，shizhunquede。gendazhongrenzhibutongdeshi，hpvbingbushi“nvxingzhuanyou”，nanxingganranhpvdebilibingbudi。qunian，《liuyedao·quanqiuweisheng》zazhikandengdeyipianyanjiubaogaoxianshi，quanshijiemei3mingnanxingzhongjiuyou1renganranlehpv。

yanjiucheng，zaihenzhangyiduanshijianli，renrutouliubingduzhiyunvxingwentixiangguan，danyanjiurenyuanyuelaiyueduodifaxian，zheileibingdushiyizhongyingxiangnannvliangxingdegonggongjiankangweixie。chuanranxinghaihenqiang，31%de15suiyishangnanxingkenengzhishaoganranlebingduzhongdeyizhong，yue21%denanxingshenzhishigaoweixing（jikezhiaixing）hpvbingdudexiedaizhe。

yixiang2019nianfabuzai《meiguoyixuehuizazhi》deyanjiuxianshi，zai1757ming18~59suidenanxingyanjiuduixiangzhong，nanxingshengzhiqihpvganranlvgaoda45.2%。zheishidangshidiyigenanxinghpvganrandeyanjiubaogao，cengyinqiyejieguangfanguanzhu。

zhishihpvduiyunanxinglaishuo，yangeyiyishangbunengsuanshi“zhisi”dejibing。

2008niannuobeiershenglixuehuoyixuejianghuodezhe，deguoshengwuyixuejiahalaerde·chuer·haosencengzhichu，nanxingdequebuhuihuangongjingai，dantamenshihpvbingduyinzidezhuyaochuanbozhe。jinanxingjiezhonghpvyimiao，shouxiankeyibaohutamendebanlv；qiciyekeyibaohunanxingzishen，yinweihpvbingduyehuidaozhiqitaaizheng，danbiqinvxinggongjingai，tamenhuanbingdegailvyaoxiaodeduo。

yincizaihpvyimiaojiezhonglvhengaodeoumeishichang，yemeiyoubeipubianjieshou。《zhonghuaquankeyishizazhi》yuanyinbaodaocheng，muqian，quanqiunanxinghpvyimiaojiezhonglvhewanchenglvrenghendi，2019nianquanqiunanhaihpvjiezhonglvhewanchenglvyuewei5%he4%，yuandiyunvhaide20%he15%。

jibianyijingyouhenduoguojiahediqubananxinghpvyimiaonaruqichangguimianyiguihuazhong。kangleweishidecaibaoxianshi，jiezhijinnian8yue，yiyou75geguojiahediqudeguojiamianyiguihuashejidaoqingshaoniannanxingjiezhonghpvyimiao，shejiqingshaoniannvxingjiezhongdeyou141geguojiahediqu。

wantaishengwuyezaixiangguangonggaozhongbiaoshi，“jiujiahpvyimiaonanxingshiyingzhenghuopishangshihoudexiaoshouqingkuangshoudaoshichangjingzhenghuanjingjixiaoshouqudaodengzhuduoyinsuyingxiang，houxushichangxiaoshouqingkuangcunzaibuquedingxing。”

youyuguoneichanpinhaiweishangshi，gejiadexiaoshoucelvebingbumingque。dancongmuqianshejiaopingtaishangduihpvdetaolunlaikan，congshihunnvxingquntiqieru，younvxingweiqinanyouhuolaogong“juece”，laiwanchengzhenggexiaoshou。jiyuguowangyijingjileiledaliangdenvxingyonghu，yimiaoqiyexiangdangyu“cunliangzaikaifa”。

02 拐点已至

jibianruci，guoneihpvyimiaochangshanghaishiyaoyingzhetoupijuanxiangnanxingqunti，yinweihpvyimiaozaiguoneishichangdegongxuguanxiyijingyinglailemingxiandezhuanzhedian：dijia（erjia、sijia）miaoshichangjingzhengyishi“honghai”，gaojiamiao（jiujia）shichangxuqiufanghuan。

moshadongdebiaoxianshizuimingxiande。yinweixianfayoushi，zai2021nian，moshadongdeliangkuanhpvchanpinchuangshoule57yimeiyuan，tongbizengzhang44%，yuanchaoqitachanpin，shenzhishouruzhanbijindiyu“kangaishenyao”kyao。

fengzhangdetaishiyizhichixudao2023nian。dangnian，moshadonghpvyimiaozaimeiguoyiwaishichangdezongxiaoshoueshi68yimeiyuan，tongbizengzhangle40.7%，zengsuyuangaoyu2022niande27.4%。qizhong，“xiaoshouzhuli”jiushizhongguoshichang。

weilebaochixianfayoushi，moshadongduocikuodachanneng。2022nian4yue，wanchengfujiniyazhouaierkedundeyimiaozhizaogongchang12wanpingfangyingchidekuojian；2022nian10yue，zaixinjiapogongchangneikuojianlesantiaozhuanyongyushengchanjiujiahpvyimiaodechanxian。

yucitongshi，moshadongyezaiquanqiudaguimo“youshuo”，kuodahpvdejiezhongfanwei，yixiaohaochanneng。2022nian8yue，jiujiahpvyimiaojiezhongrenqunyou16~26suikuolingdao9~45suinvxing。

zhongguoyizhishimoshadong“gaoduzhongshi”deshichang，qixiangguanfuzerencengtidao，jishizaiquanqiugonghuojinzhangdeqingjingxia，duizhongguodehpvyimiaogongyingliangrengranchengzhunianzengzhangtaishi。tazaizhongguodeyingxiaocelveyijingxihuadaobutongquyuduiyingbutongdafa，moshadongzhongguozongcaitianannazaiyicizhuanfangzhongtiji，yaozaigeditansuo“yindizhiyi”degongjingaifangzhimoshi。

chulehpvyimiaojinruzhongguojiaowan，shimoshadongzuidadezengliangshichangzhiwai，tayezaiqiangshijian。yinweizheishiyige“chuangkouqi”：moshadongjiujiahpvyimiaozaizhongguodeguanjianzhuanlidaoqishijianshi2025nian，erzheiqianhou，zhengshiduokuanguochanyimiaoshangshidejieduan。

jinzhanzuikuaideshiwantaishengwudejiujiahpvyimiao，jinnian8yueshangshishenqinghuoshouli。huaxizhengquandeyanbaozhongcengyugu，2025niangaichanpinyouwangshangshixiaoshou。ciwai，boweishengwu、kangleweishi、ruikeshengwu、wosenshengwudenggongsidejiujiahpvyimiaojunyijinrulinchuangsanqijieduan，chengdousuoyanfadeshiyijiahpvyimiaohechengdashengwuyanfadeshiwujiahpvyimiaoyezai“buwei”zhong。

erqieguochanerjiamiaodeluxushangshi，yinjiagedilianyejidachongjilemoshadongdeshichang。yigetuchudexinhaoshi，jiujiahpvyimiaoyijingbuzainanyue，shenzhishixiaoxianchengyeyouhuo。

2024nian1yue，moshadongxuanbu9~14suinvxingjiezhongjiujiahpvyimiaoshikejindaliangzhen，zheiyiweizhejiaozhiqiansanzhendeshuliang，feiyongjianshaole1/3。

danzheibingmeiyouhuanjiezengzhangpitai。moshadongzaizhongguodedujiadailizhifeishengwubannianbaoxianshi，sijiahpvhejiujiahpvyimiaozaishangbanniandepiqianfaliang，zengzhanglvfenbiewei-92.56%、24.48%；2023nian，duiyingdeshujuzewei-26.27%、136.16%。yejiushishuo，zhifeishengwudafujianshaolesijiamiaodecaigou，bashichang“rang”jileguochanyimiao，haichuzaixiquezhuangtaidejiujiamiaoyejibenpengdaoletianhuaban。

03 国内厂商求变

xingyedepubianyuqishiguoneiyimiaoqiyejiangjiyuchengbenyoushi，bashichangcongmoshadongshouliqiangguolai。danzhiqianzibenshichangdebaochao，fanerrangzheigeyuqichengle“tangshoushanyu”。

2020nian5yue，wantaishengwushangshiguoneishoukuanerjiahpvyimiao，qiangzhanleyiduanshijianderedu。zheirangtazaiguapaikechuangbanhou，lachujin30gezhangtingban，shizhigengshizai2021niantupo1800yiyuan。

danrujin，wantaishengwudeshizhihuiluodao900yiyuanzuoyou，“wanzhongqidai”dejiujiamiaolinjinshangshi，touzizhequebuzaikanhaozheijiagennongfushanquantongyigelaobandeyimiaogongsi。ciqian，erjishichangbushaotouzizherenweinongfushanquandongshizhangzhongshanshanshidingjideyingxiao“guicai”，shenanzhongguoxiaofeiduanshichang。

danerjiamiaoshichangtaicanliele。wosenshengwudeerjiamiaoshangshihou，genwantaishengwuzhijiekaidajiagezhan。liangjiadezhengfucaigoujiage，fenbiecong2022niande246yuan/zhi、329yuan/zhidezhongbiaojia，diezhijinniande27.5yuan/zhi、86yuan/zhi。

congcaiwushujushangkan，jiangjiafudugengda、shoujiagengdidewosenshengwuquebingbuchikui。jinnianqiansanjidu，wantaishengwuyingshou19.48yiyuan，tongbixiajiang60.79%，jinglirun2.67yiyuan，xiajiang85.25%；wosenshengwuyingshou21.41yiyuan，tongbixiajiang32.19%，jinglirun2.56yiyuan，xiajiang53.67%。

kanshangqu“gengyouqian”dewantaishengwubingmeiyouguoduochanshuzaihpvshangdecelve。conggongkaiziliaolaikan，wantaishengwujinjinianjiakuailezaihaiwaidebuju。

2021nian10yue，qierjiahpvyimiaozhengshitongguoshijieweishengzuzhideyurenzheng（pqrenzheng），kegonglianheguoxitongcaigou。jinnianshangbannian，yihuodemoluoge、niboer、taiguo、gangguo（jin）、jianpuzhaideng18geguojiadeshichangzhunru。

3yue，wantaishengwucengzaihudongpingtaishangbiaoshi，jinnianjiangweiraoquanqiushangweijianghpvyimiaonaruguojiajihuamianyijianshedeguojiahediqu，kaizhanshichangtuozhanhexiaoshougongzuo。

jinnianchu，wantaishengwuhuanlezongjingli。xinrenzongjinglijiangzhimingyouduonianzaitiwaizhenduanxingyederenzhibeijing，ertiwaizhenduanyewucengshiwantaishengwudeyejizhizhu，shouruzhanbiyiduchaoguobacheng。cicirenshibiandongyebeishichangjieduweiyingduiyimiaoyejijiangsu，wantaishengwuyaodiaozhengyewuzhongxindexinhao。

zhuyaoshiwosenshengwuguodeye“buhao”。yikaodijiacelve，erjiahpvyimiaozai2022nianshangshixiaoshoudediyinian，wosenshengwujiuzhanshangshouru50yiyuantaijie。danzaizibenshichangkanlai，tadehexinchanpinzongshi“manyibu”——zaoyijinrusanqilinchuangshiyandejiujiahpvyimiaohaimeiyouxindejinzhan。tongguodijiaqiangzhandeshichangfugaidu，ruguohouxuchanpingenbushang，haide“gongshouxiangrang”。

chulehpvjinru“weilishidai”，jinnianyilai，wosenshengwuzhengtibiaoxianbujia。lingyikuanzhulichanpinshisanjiafeiyanqiujunduotangjieheyimiao，shouguoneixinshengershuliangxiajiangheshichangjingzhengjiajudengyinsuyingxiang，2023nianchanpinxiaoshouliangkaishitongbixiajiang。

4yue，wosenshengwuhaifangqilebaokuo4kuanxinguanyimiaozaineideduokuanyimiao。quniandi，wosenshengwuqianzongcaijiangrunshengjieshoucaifangshishuo，youyushichangbodong、xiaofeifali、jingjizengzhangfanghuan，wosenshengwuyouwaibuyaliheneibukunnan。

nianzhong，wosenshengwuduizuzhijiagoujinxingledadiaozheng，zhongxinshulichusidanenglipingtai、qidazhinengbumenheliudayewudanyuan。7yue22ri，gengshiyirizhinei，pilu9weigaoguandezhiweibiandongqingkuang。

jinnian5yue，wosenshengwuzaihuidatouzizhetiwenshicheng，gongsiyezhengzaizhunbeierjiahpvyimiaodeshijieweishengzuzhiyurenzhenggongzuo，zheibiwantaishengwuwanlesannianduo。zainianzhongdezuzhijiagoudiaozhengzhong，wosenshengwuyejiangshichangbankuaixifenweiguoneiheguojishichang。

xiangjiaozhixia，yidailimoshiweizhudezhifeishengwuyao“congrong”henduo。2023niandankaodailimoshadonghpvyimiao，shourujiugaoda480yiyuan，zheitongshiweitadakaileguoneidexiaoshoutonglu。

qunian10yue，zhifeishengwu“huandao”younaxialedujiashengyi。taconggelansushikeneilihuodeledaizhuangpaozhenyimiaoshingrixdedujiajingxiaoquan。zuoweiyikuanzhuyaozhendui50suiyishangchengrendeyimiao，dangqianguoneishichangweiyidejingzhengduishoushibaikeshengwu，qieshichangpujidubingbugao，zheibeishichangrenweiyaozaicifuzhihpvyimiaodegushi。

zhifeishengwubingmeiyouzhenduinanxinghpvyimiaodehouxudailihexiaoshoucelve，youguoduochanshu。zheizhong“mohu”dezhuangtai，duiyuxingyelaishuo，bingbusuanyigehaoxinhao。

bushaoyimiaoxingyerenshijiqiwangyuguochanjiujiamiaoshangshizhihou，zaixiaofeiduanshichangshangdebaofa，yerenweiguojiabahpvyimiaonarudaomianfeijiezhongdefanweinei，youhendadebiyao。zheiduiyushichanglaishuo，doushibukekongdejudazengliang。

dangran，zhanzhenghaiweikaishi，gejiahaiyoujihuiquzhengqunenggaibianzhanjudejingzhengyaosu。suiranhennan，danmianduiqianqidaliangdetouru，bixudequzuo。