wen | touzijiepedaily

2024nianjijiangjieshule。

jinri，yidalichaopaijituanngg（new guards group）zhengshishenqingledi11zhangpochanbaohuchengxu。zhici，zheigecengjingdechaopaidiguo，zhongjiuaobuguozheiyinian。

chengliyu2015nian，nggkansimosheng，danqixiahuijulezhuduohongjiyishidejietouchaopai。tahaidizaolexianxiangjichaopaioff-white，yidubeishizuoshiyidalibanlvmh。dianfengshiqi，nggcengbeicaituanzhengxiangjinggou，zhidao2019nianbeiyingguoshishanglingshouxianshangpingtaifarfetchchizi6.75yimeiyuan（yuehe50yirenminbi）shougou。

danmeirenliaodao，nggdejingkuangjizhuanzhixia。bangeyueqian，shiqureebokruibudexieleihefuzhuangpinleideouzhoufenxiaoxuke，xianrujin，zhongyuchengbuxiaqu。duanduanyixizhijian，chaopaisihubeijitipaoqi。

曾风靡一时，那个潮牌破产了

rangwomenhuidaogushidekaishi。

neishi2015nian，claudio antoniolishimilanzhumingmaishoudiandelaoban，kunaoruheguanliqixiapinpai。ertadepengyoushishanggongguanzhuanjiamarcelo burlonzhengxiangzuogexinchaopai，yishidaofacebook、instagramzhengxunsuzouhong，“yihoudexiaohaizhihuitongguoiphonegoutong，zheishigaibianxingyedejihui。”

yipaijihe，tamenlalaichaopaizishenrenshidavide de giglio，zhengshichuanglinew guards group (ngg)。sangeyuehou，gongsidiyigepinpaijichuangshirenmarcelo burlondetongmingchaopaimianshi，congcishishangjieduoleyiduijijubianshidudeyuyi。

（图片来自官网）

sanweichuangshirenzaishishangjierenmaijiguang，tamenxianshibayifujijimingxing、yinlerenjiyishujiapengyoumen。conggeshoujustin bieberdaonbaqiuxingzhanmusiwubuchuanzhechujie，mingxingtongkuanzaishejiaopingtaibaohuo。rujinkanlaihuoxuyouxiezhongerguoshi，danzaidangnian，jihuquanqiugedidouyourenshenchuanyumaochibangtxu。

nggdechengmingzhizhandangshuoff-white。bishinggyuxihageshoukanye westhezuoshi，faxiankanyeshenbiandevirgil ablohjijucaihua，bianzhudongyaoqingtayiqichuanglixinpinpai，off-whitehengkongchushi，diyijianshitidianzaizhongguoxianggangkaiye，henkuaijinruneidi，luxuzaibeijing、shanghai、shenyang、tianjindengdikaisheleshiyujiamendian。

（图片来自官方微信）

yinzhejiaochajiantou、xiewenjiansudaidebaokuantuan，xunsufuhuoyizhongmingxing、shishangbozhuhenianqingrendexin。dingjiagengshidianfulejietoupinpaidepingminfengge，yijiantxudongzhe3000yuan，jiagezhibigucci、lvdengyixianshechipin。neijinian，off-whitejihuhengsaogedapinlei，yuqilianmingbidingchengweidaredanpin。

shenzhi，yishuangyuair jordanlianmingkuanqiuxie，chaodaojiangjinliangwanyuanrengjiuyixienanqiu。

dingshengshiqi，off-whiteshuaxinxuduoshechipinwangchenmojidejilu——nianxiaoshoue4nianzengzhang21bei，2020nianqizongxiaoshouechaoguo4yiouyuan，chengweimingfuqishideshishangjieyinchaoji。ernggzuoweioff-whitezuidadejingxiaoshang，gongbukemei。

cihou ，nggdelujingzhujianqingxi，zhuyaoyuxinruishejishihezuo，luxuchenggongfuhuajishougouheron preston、unravel project、alanuidengchaopai。yibaneryan，ngghuizhanfuhuapinpaideduoshuguquan，bingyongyou15nianzhi25nianbudengdeshengchan、fenxiaoxukeqixian。2019nian，gongsigangchenglibudaosinian，nianxiaoshoueyida4.2yiouyuan。

yigechaopaidiguojiuzheiyangjianliqilai。zaichuangshirenkanlai，nggdechenggongshibirande。“womenzhidaonianqingrenxiangyaoshenme，yinweiwomenjiushizheixienianqingren，yiqundongshishangdecongmingrenjinkenengchuangzaochuyouqudexiangmu。”huanyanzhi，nggbushichaoliupinpaidejiandanfuzhi，gengshiyigejijuyingxianglidechaoliuquanzi。

2019nian，shechidianshangpingtaifarfetchfafaqiyi6.75yimeiyuangaojiashougoulengg，zheibeishiweifafaqideyexinkuozhang。cihounggjiadalebufa，yu2022nianyumeiguoyundongpinpaireebok（ruibu）dachengzhangqizhanlvehezuohuobanguanxi，jieguanouzhoushichangdelingshoumendianhedianshang。

ranerliangnianguoqu，nggbujinshiquruibuouzhoufenxiaoxuke，fanerqianxia3yimeiyuanshouquanfeiyong，jinjiezheshenqingpochanbaohuchengxuyijinxingzhongzu。

rujin，nianqingrenyanzhongdelvmhchedixianrulenitan。

为何陨落？

shuoqilai，nggdedaotayufafaqimibukefen。

2007nianzuoyou，congxiaochimibianchengbingyouguoxieleichuangyejingyandejosé neveschuanglifarfetch。gongsizuichudingweiyuxianshangyouzhimaishoudian，congyizhongshechipindianshangzhongtuoyingerchu。2014nianjinjunzhongguoshichang，zhongwenmingweifafaqi。

bishizhengzhidianshangrechao，fengtoujigoujiezhongerlai。fafaqicengzai8nianneizhanhuo6lunrongzi，zhongxingyunji，touzifangbaokuojingdong、ali、tengxun、danmaxi、idgziben、kangtainashijituan、eurazeo、lifengjituan、dst global……zuizhonggongsiyu2018nianzainiujiaosuoshangshi，shizhiyidugaoda290yimeiyuan。

cihou，fafaqibuzaimanzuyuzhizuoshechipin“zhongjie”。zaijiashangshechipinpaikaishiqinzixiachangdianshang，fafaqizheiyangdedisanfangnadaojianhuonandubianda，yushizhuanerhaozishuyimeiyuanshougounggdengzhongduochuizhidianshangheshishangpinpai，qiwangxingchengxindeyingshouzengzhangdian。

ranershiyuyuanwei，suizheyonghuzengzhangfanghuan、yinglinandengwentiluxuxianlu，fafaqinianbaoludelianniankuisun，shizhidiezhi2.2yimeiyuan。2023nian12yue，hanguodianshangjutoucoupangyi5yimeiyuanjiagesiyouhuafafaqi。

fuchaozhixia，anyouwanluan。mugongsizishennanbao，nggchuangshirenjielianchuzou，yewuzhujianbeibianyuanhua，qijianyiduchuanchubeidabaochushoudexiaoxi，queshizhongmeiyoujinzhan。

shenjiuxialai，nggdieluobeihou，shiqixiachaopaimendejitiandan。

zaozaijinianqian，off-whitechuangshirenvirgil ablohcengjieshoucaifangshi，ziwopipanshiyuyan，“jietoufushilisibuyuanle”。yiyuchengchen，nggdedangjiapinpaioff-whiteyenantaomingyun。

2021nian，lvmhjiangoff-whitenaruhuixia，ranerjinjinsannianhoujiuchezichushou。shijishang，zicongchuangshirenvirgil ablohyinbingqushihou，off-whitedepinpaiyingxianglixunsuxuejian，jihuzaimeiyouchuangzaochubaokuandanpin。zhongguoshioff-whitedezhongyaoshichang，jinnianyilaixianxiamendianluxuguanbi，jinshengxialingxingaolaizhekouquzaishou。

bujinjinshioff-white，nggqixiaqitachaoliupinpaiyejianshiyingxiangli。ambushjinnianguanbixianshangqijiandian，heron preston、palm angelsxuanzeyumoncler、h&mdengpinpaijinxinglianming，quezaoyibujidianfengshiqi。zainianqingrenxinzhong，tamenzuihuodeshihouyijingguoqule。

cengyouyishougounggdesimuguquanjigoustyle capitalchuangshirenzhiyan：“nggqueshaolezhongyaodetouzizhichi，tuodeshijianyuejiu，pinpaijiazhibeixiaohaodeyueduo，zuihoujiuwukejiu。”

dangchaoliubuzaixinxian，nggdejiejubianyizhuding。

“一时火爆，五年倒闭”，消费大洗牌

chaoqiyouchaoluo，jinianshijian，chaopaimendezhongjujingyiwaizoudaoyiqi。

youzhexiangsimingyundeshisuperdry。jinnianchu，chaopaisuperdry（jiduganzao）beibaochubinlinpochandexiaoxi。

chengliyu2003nian，superdryshiyijiayingguobentuchaopai，zhuyaoshoumaidongzhuang，cengzaiquanqiu40duogeguojiakaileliangbaiduojiadian，beikehanmu、qiudeluodoucengshitadetieganfensi。2016nianjinjunzhongguoshichanghou，superdryhaizaiguoneikaishele25jiaziyingdianhe41jiatexujingyingdian。dan2020nian，superdryxuanbuzanbiezhongguoneidishichang。

zheijinianlai，superdryyufabujinrurenyi，shenxiankuisunnitan。dianfengshiqi，superdryshizhiyidudadao20yiyingbang（yuehe180yiyuanrenminbi），danjinnian7yue，queyilundunzhengquanjiaoyisuotuishishouchang，lingrenxixu。

championchuanglishijiangengzaoyixie，yenantaoeyun。chengliyu1919nian，zaoqihetiyuwenhuashendubangding，tongguozanzhugaoxiaoxunliandui、hezhiyeyundongqiuyuanhezuo，yinjiagedilian、shejishushierposhouhuanying。2015nian，championjinruzhongguoshichang，tongguolianminghemingxingzaoshi，xunsuzaiguoneishichangbaohuo，qitxuheweiyiyidubeizhengxiangqianggou。

danzheifenrenaozhichixuleduanduanjinian，zaixinxingpinpaiciqibifudejingzhengzhizhong，shejifashankechendechampionjianjianshiqudiwei，congchaopaibiancheng“dazhongpai”，xiaoshoueliannianxiahua，dasibidianhou，zuizhongbeimugongsipaimai。

haiyouyidaliyanjingjituanessilorluxotticaxuanbuyizuojia15yimeiyuancongvfjituanshouzhongquanzishougouzhimingchaopaisupreme，houzheyu2020nianyi21yimeiyuanshougougaipinpai，duanduansiniansuoshui6yimeiyuan；cengjingdeshishangnongchaoerespritzhengzaidafusuojianguimo，aodili、bilishi、ruishi、deguofengongsijunyishenqingpochan；hanguochaopainerdyzaizhongguokaiqiqingcangdashuaimai……tamenchenglishijiangebuxiangtong，doucenghuobaoyishi，youjihujitibeishidaipaoqi。

suoweichaopai，zaiyingwenzhongdeyisishi“streetwear”，jietoufushi。nianqingrenzhuichongchaopai，chulechaoliudebiaomianyiyi，gengduoshizhuiqiupinpaibeihouduli、fanpan、gexingziyoudeduteyuyi。danshidaibutingbianhua，xiaofeizhedepianhaoyehuibuduangengxin，xiaozhonggexingheshangyehuazhijiangengnanmiangelie。

“yishihuobao，sannianguoqi，wuniandaobi”，sihuchengweichaopainantaodesuming。

fangyanxiaofeixingye，womenyijingkandaoletaiduopinpaizhuiluodegushi，yezhiguandiganshoudaoxiaofeizhanchangdecanku：tamenhuoxukeyiyongyicichuquanxunsubaohong。danyigepinpaiyaoxiangzhangjiudizouxiaqu，gongyinglian、xianjinliu、maolilvdengzuiweiposudeshangyewentidouxuyaoyiyijiejue。fouze，zhongjiangshitanhuayixian。

“jinmingliangnian，nadaoguorongzidezaizibenshichangshangyouhenjidexiaofeiqiyehuijingliyibohendadepochanchao，daliangdechuangyegongsihuipochanzhongzu，huozhezhijiepochanshenzhichiguansi。”yiweixiaofeitouzirendeyuyanzhengzaiyingyan。

langchaotunqu，jingzhongzhangming。