wen｜zuihuafuntalk liangyanlin​

编辑｜刘宇翔

fangzu、shuidian、yuangonggongzi……meiyixiangkaizhidouyadezhouyangchuanbuguoqilai，zuizhong，zailianxukuisunjigeyuehou，zhouyangdedianpuwunaidiguashangle“wangpuzhuanrang”depaizi。

zhouyangyizhiyouchuangyedexiangfa，buduanzixunzhoubianpengyoudetongshiyezaiwangshangsousuochuangyejihui，yiciouranjian，tazaiwangshangkandaolezhaoyiminglingshidejiamengguanggao，zhouyangjuedezheizhongliangfanshilingshidiandabufenpinpailingshidejiagedoubijiaodi，er“xianzaidabufendenianqingrendouxuanzetangping，shouruyebugao，yemeishenmetebiedeaihao，bianyidelingshiduiyutamenlaishuo，haishibijiaoyouxiyinlide。”

zaixiaofeijiangjidedaqushixia，zhouyangjuedezheigeshengyizhidezuo，yushitaxuanzelejiamengzhaoyiminglingshijihedian。

dianpugangkaiqilaideshihou，zhouyangxinqierhengao，congdianmianzhuangxiudaoyuangongpeixun，suoyoudeshiqingtadouqinliqinwei，chuqiyequeshipingjiezhexindiancuxiaoyouhuihuodongxiyinlebushaoguke，meitiandeyingyeeyehaisuankeguan。

danshihaojingbuzhang，suizhetongleidianpudebuduanyongxian，zhouyangganshoudaoleqiansuoweiyoudeyali，gengrangtatoutengdeshi，youyuchucichuangyejingyanbuzu，tazaijinhuoshiweinengzhunqueyuceshichangxuqiu，daozhibufenshangpinjiyayanzhong，zaochenglebuxiaodesunshi。

zuizhongzaijianchijigeyuehou，zhouyangbeipoyanqixigu，xuanzeletuichu。zailingshijihedianjiamengshangzaigentoudebingfeizhiyouzhouyang，dakaixiaohongshu、douyin，sousuo“lingshidianjiameng”，zaiqufanfanpinglunqujiuhuifaxiankuiqiande，bingbuzaishaoshu。

raner，jiuzaizhouyangtuichudetongshi，liangfanlingshijiamengyijiuzaiquanguogongchenglvedi。yizhaoyimingweili，quanguomendianshuyitupo7000jia，fugai200duogechengshi，bingchaozhewandianguimokuangben，chengqianshangwanhuaichuaizhezhifumengxiangderenyuanyuanbuduanjiaru。

zheige“xueqiu”haizaiyuegunyueda。

raner，suiranlingshixiaofeidequeshigezhangpohouxuedechangjing，danzheixiesuoweideliangfanlingshipinpai，qishibingwutaigaomenjian。tamenbuxiangmingchuangyoupin，zijiguihuashejilechanpin，bingyongyouchayihuadegongyinglian，shenzhibuxiangneixienaichapinpai，haodaihouzhehaiyouxiedujiapeifang，erliangfanlingshipinpaiderujuzhe，benzhishangshixiaoshipindepifashang。

xianzaipifashangmenzhaorenshejileyixiamentou，guihualeyixiamendianchenlie，jiukeyikaizhanggaojiamengla，sheinengbushuozheizhenshimenrongyideshengyi，danyejizhongguodexianxiashangyedaleyigehuaiyang。

01 退出者

shanxilvliangrenliweizhiqianzailaojiajingyingzheyijiamianguan，shengyiyizhibucuo，liweishouliyouxieyuqianhou，jiuxiangkuozhanyixiayewu，hezhouyangyiyang，liweiyejiangmuguangmiaozhunleliangfanshilingshidian。

zheijinian，youyudianneizhuangxiushishang、dianpumianjida、huojiabaifangzhengqi、bufenshangpinjiagedilian，liangfanshilingshidianruyuhouchunsunyibanyongxianzaigegechengshi、xiancheng、xiangzhen。

qichuliweibutailijieliangfanshilingshidianzheigegainian，zaitaderenzhili，zuolingshishengyiyaomejiushilingshou，yaomejiushipifa，“liangfan”zheigecishizaiguoyumosheng，houlaijingguolejie，tacaizhidao“liangfan”zheigecizuizaolaiziyuriben，shi“daliangxiaoshoushangpindeyisi”。liangfanshilingshidiandetedianyouzhongleiduo、jiagedi、gouwufangbiankuaijiedengtedian，zhudapingjia、shengqian，suoyiyebeichengwei“xianxiabanpinduoduo”huo“lingshibanmixuebingcheng”，zhuzhanchangdabufenzaixiachenshichang。

zaiduimuqianjijiadaxingdeliangfanshilingshidianyoulechubulejiehou，liweizaimianguanshengyibumangdeshihoubotonglezhaoyimingdezhaoshangjiamengdianhua，anzhaoduifangsuoshuodeyaoqiu，taxuyaoyouyigezhishao150pingmiyishangdemendian，xuyaoanzhaopinpaifangdeyaoqiujinxingtongyizhuangxiu，shangpinyoupinpaifangtongyitigong、tongyidingjia。

liweiculvesuanlexiajiamengfei、baozhengjin、zhuangxiufei、shebeicaigou、shoucijinhuofeiyong，zaijiashangfangwuzujin、renli、shuidiandengdengzaqizabade，zhengtisuanxialaishoucidetouru60duowanzheigediancainengkaiqilai。

duiyuliweizuiguanxindeyingliwenti，pinpaifangjichudehuidashi“zheizhongliangfanshilingshidiandepingjunriyingyeezai1wan-1.5wanzuoyou，pingjunmaolilvzai18%zuoyou。”

muqianliweihaibuxiangfangqiyouzhewendingxianjinliudemianguanshengyi，suoyixuyaoguren，liweidagaisuanlexia，kaiyigelingshidianxuyaoshanghuo、lihuo、shouyindenggongzuo，neimejiuzhishaoxuyaogu1gedianzhang+3gedianyuan，anzhaolvliangdangdidexinzishuipinglaijisuan，liweimeigeyuezairenyuangongzishangjiuyaohuafei1.5wanzuoyou，chulerenlichengben，fangzumeiyuedagaiyexuyaohuafeiwuqianduo，shuidianmeiyuedagaiyeyaoyougeliangsanqian，zheigechengbenbingbudi。

weilelejiegengzhenshideqingkuang，liweishidiquwenlejijialingshidiandeyeji，tafaxianbufenmendianderiyingyeeyupinpaifangdeshuofadaxiangjingting，yibanriyingyeezhiyouliuqiqian，maidehaodeshihounengdaoyiwanduo，danriyingyeeguowanbingbushichangtai。

ruguoanzhaopingjunriyingyeebaqianlaijisuan，jianqugezhongchengben，kaiyijiazheiyangdeliangfanlingshidian，dagaimeigeyuenengjingzhuan1.8wanzuoyou，qianqitouruliuqishiwandehua，dagaisannianzuoyoucaikeyihuiben。

liweisikaoleyiduanshijian，suirantabuqiwangzaiduanshijianneizhuandaqian，danshisanniandehuibaozhouqihaishitaijiule。

gengrangtabuandeshi，suiranbuguanshihaoxianglaihaishizhaoyiminglingshidoubiaoshi，weilebaohujiamengshangdeliyi，zaikaidianzhihoubuyunxulinjie500mizhineizaikaidierjia，dantamentongyangyebiaoshile，jutihaishiyidangdiderenliulianghexiaofeinengliqupipeixiangyingshuliangdemendian。

liweirenwei，“neizheigebaohu，jiumeiyoutaiduodeyiyi，500mizhineibunengkaidierjiaxianzhidezhishijiamengshangjiamengdezheigepinpai，danshiqitapinpailingshidianjiuyaozainidianpudepangbiankai，tayeguanbulea。”

zuozhemianguanshengyideliweimingbai，yitiaojieshangtongyangdediankaiduole，jiyoukenengdianpukaileyinianduohuozhebudaoyinianjiudaobile，tourudechengbenjiubuyidingnenghuidelai。

yushi，liweizuizhongfangqilejiamengliangfanshilingshidiandexiangfa。

02 “买的没有卖的精”的二道贩

chenqiduijiamenglingshidianbuganxingqu，dantajingchanghuiquliangfanshilingshidiansaohuo，tajuedezaizheilitakeyishixian“lingshiziyou”。

bijing，shichangshangmai3kuai/pingdebaisuishan，zaizhaoyimingdengliangfanshilingshidiankeyimaidao1.8yuan；5.5yuan/pingdesandeliwulongcha，zheilimai3.8yuan；13.5yuan/he（204g）dehaoliyoupai，zheilimai8.9yuan；8yuan/daidequduoduo，zheilimai4.9。jibenshangdajiaershunengxiangdepinpai，zailiangfanlingshidiandoukeyiyonggengbianyidejiagemaidao。

muqianshimianshangdedaxinglingshidianmingbai“bianyijiushiyingdaoli”，tamenxuancheng“hegongchangzhijieduijie，shengqulejingxiaoshanghuanjie，gengduoderanglijixiaofeizhe”，zheiyangxiaofeizhejindianjiuhuixiayishidijuededongxidouhenbianyi，yushijiubutingdemaimaimai。

danshizheixielingshidiandechanpin，daodishibushizhendexiangrenmenyiweidezheimebianyini？

yiyibaoputongdeleshishupianweili，chaoshimai3.5yuanzuoyou，danshizaizheixieliangfanshilingshidianwangwang2.8yuanzuoyoujiunengmaidao，yushi，xiaofeizhejuedemaiyibaoshupianjiuzhanle 7 maoqiandebianyi。

zhengshizheixiexijiejilexiaofeizheyizhong“zheilisuoyoudeshangpindouhenbianyi”dexinlianshi，queshi，zheizhongxiweidexinlianshizaichuqishiyouxiaoguode，zaijiashangshichangdeshengyinzaibuduanzhongfu“zheixieliangfanlingshidiandelingshidouhenbianyi”，xiaofeizhebianzhendexiangxintamenhenbianyi。

danmeizhuyidaodeshi，meibaoshupiandekezhongshibuyiyangde，chaoshilideyibao3.5yuandeshupianshi40g，erlingshidianliangfandianlimiandewangwangshi35g，huansuanxialai，qishishibichaoshilimaidehaiyaogui。

zaiqiaomiaodebaozhuangxia，liangfanlingshidianlidabufenershunengxiangdelingshipinpai，kanshangqushibishimianshang“bianyi”yixie，liangfanlingshidianwangwangjiubadapaishangpindejiage“zuodi”，yongdapaishangpinyinliu，birubufenshangjiahuibayikuaiduodekuangquanshuifangzaimendianrukouchu，qiangzhanyonghuxinzhi，jidajiayingzaochuyizhongdianlidedongxidouhenbianyidejiaxiang，qishi，dianlinengzhenzhengzhuanqiankaodeshi“baipai”sanzhuanglingshi。

gongdaodishuo，liangfanshilingshidianlide“baipai”sanzhuanglingshisuiranpinpaizhimingdubugao，dantamenbingbushijiahuo，yebuyiweizhetamendepinzhicha，shishishang，henduobaipaishangpinzaishangpinpinzhishangwanquankeyipimeibufenpinpaishangpin，danyinweiquefapinpaixiaoying，sanzhuangshoumai，fengjianyouren，gengjiashihezhongdishouruqunti。

youyu“baipai”sanzhuanglingshibenshenmeishazhimingdu，jiageyouburuneixie“dapai”shangpintouming，suoyijiuyunhanlelirunkongjian。

《zuihua》lianxishanglemoudaxingliangfanshilingshidiandegongyingshangsunxiansheng，congsunxianshengkouzhong，womendezhixiangjianjiancuizheiyangdexiaolingshijinhuojiashi6.3jin39.5yuan，bufenlingshidiandelingshoujiashi8kuaiduo/jin；weihuadejinhuojiashi5jin33.5yuan，xianxialingshoujiayibanzai10kuaiduo/jin。

sunxianshengshuo“womenyibandoushihelingshidianqiandingzhangqihezuodehetongde，liangtaishaolewomenbumaide，neixiedadeliangfanshilingshidianjiubushuole，tamenmeicijinhuodouhenduo，womenyehuijidaotamengengjiayouhuidejiage，xiaodelingshidianyicigoumaizuishaodouyao1000xiangde。”

duiyushangjialaishuo，baipailingshisuiranmeiyouguogaodepinpaiyijia，danshengzaijinhuojiadi，suoyimaolilvyegao，shimendiandezhuyaoyinglizhicheng。lingshiyoumingchuangshirenlishuyucengjingbiaoshiguo“zailingshiyoumingdeduogepinleizhong，baipaishangpinshuliangyuewei77%，xiaoshouegongxianle73%”，baipaishangpinduiyuliangfanshilingshidiandezhongyaoxingbuyaneryu。

womenlejiedao，“baipai”lingshidegongyingshangweishuzhongduo，jinhenanyidi，guimojiugaodaqianyiji，jiashanghunandengsheng，gexifenpinleidouyouwushugongyingshang。zheiyeyiweizhe，liangfanshilingshoupinpaifangsuiranbuchoumeiyougongyingshang，danzaichanpincengmian，gejiapinpaifangqishidoumeiyoumenjianhe“huchenghe”，doubuguoshierdaofanzi。

zheixiebaipaishangpinzhibiaozhulemeijindejiage，dandabufenxiaofeizhejibenbuhuihuashijianqusuanyijinyoujibao，gengbuhuiqujisuandankejiage，suoyijiurongyibei“taolu”。

chenqishuo，“jinlezheixielingshidian，nikenengjuedemeimaishenme，danzuihoujiezhangdeshihoufaxianmeicidounengxiaofeijishidaoshangbaiyuan。”

youwangyoubiaoshimaiyixiaobaoyouyuzijiuyao15yuan，maiyibaosanzhuangquduoduojiuyao5yuan，zheiyibaoliyejiuliangpian，“tuotuodelingshicike”。haiyouwangyoubiaoshizaizheixieliangfanshilingshidianlimaidelatiao，chiqilaiganjueguaiguaide，jieguofaxianhaiyou5tianguoqi。

yizhiyu，xianzaichenqiquzheixielingshidian，“jibenzhimaiyinliao，qitadesanzhuangshipinjibenbumaile。”

03 击鼓传花

suiranmeixuanzejingyingliangfanlingshidian，danjingguokaocha，liweiduizheigexingyeyoulezijidekanfa。

zailiweiyanli，zheizhongliangfanshilingshidiandejingyingmoshihezhiqianfangdichanyouneimeyidiandianxiang，doushishuyugaozhouzhuanmoshi，bixubutingkaixindian，baguimoyuezuoyueda，pinpaifangcainengcongjiamengshangneizhuandaogengduodeqian。

zheishigetingbuxialaidezijinyouxi。zaichengxianggedi，xiangliweizheiyangdezhongduoxiaoshengyirenzhengmianlinzhegezhongzhuanxingkunju，jiamengliangfanlingshidianzhuanwenwendeqian，chengledajiayanlide“jiumingdaocao”，bijingzuizaojiamengderenli，queshiyouzhuandaoqiande，yushi，qitarenfenfengenfengjiaru，rangduogeliangfanshilingshipinpaizoushanglexunsukuozhangdedaolu。

aimeizixunshujuxianshi，2023nianzhongguolingshijihedianshichangguimowei809yiyuan，yuji2027nianyouwangdadao1547yiyuan。jiezhi2024nian11yue，zuoweizhimingdujiaogaodezhaoyiminglingshidemendianshuliangyijingchaoguole7000jia。

zheixieliangfanlingshidianzoudeshi“nongcunbaoweichengshi”deluxian，xuanzhiyibanzaisansixianchengshi、xianchengnaizhixiangzhen，youqizaixiangzhen，liangfanlingshidianneishuoda、yansexianyandeguanggaopaijiweixingmu，haocheng“xiaozhencbd”。pinpaifangxiangxiyindeyezhengshizheixiedifangdexiaoshengyiren，liangfanlingshidianpinpaijisukuozhangdebeihou，zhengshichengqianshangwandejiamengshang。

jutongji，2023nianzhongguodeliangfanlingshizhuanyingdianshuliangjiutupole2.2wanjia，zaishamen，xianggebuzujibaimi，jiuyousanjialingshijihedian，chanpingaodutongzhihua，suirangejiafenfentuichu“lingshidakaqiang”、“renqidingzhilingshiwawaji”dengduozhongwanfa，yijiyueyueshangxin、cuxiaoxiyinxiaofeizhe，danxiaofeizhezuiguanzhudehaishijiage。

weilejiangdichengbenladishoujia，gejialiangfanlingshipinpaibuduanxiangbanfaxuejianchengbenhe“zuodi”jiage。

yizhaoyiminglingshiweili，zaihouduan，taxuanbuyu500duojiazhengpindachangjianlijinmidehezuoguanxi，shixian100%deshangpinzhijiecaigou，jiangdicaigouchengben，ciwaiyinrushuzihuaguanlixitong，tourujianshele20dashuzhihuacangpeiwuliuzhongxin，caiyongzidonghuasheshiyujishutisuhuowudefenjianyudabaoliucheng，suoduanpeisongzhouqi。

zaiqianduan，gejiapinpaifangchuledapailingshou，gengduoshiyinrudaliang“baipai”sanzhuanglingshi，ladipingjunjia，haituichu“dingzhikuan”，“baozhuanggaixiao”、“kezhongbianqing”dengfangshi，zaixuejianmeibaokezhongdetongshi，meijianshangpindedanjiakansiyejiujiangxialaile。

danqishi，zheidouhaishimeinengtiaochuyuanlaidemoshi，liweishuo，“zaizoujinzheixieliangfanlingshidiandeshihou，dabufenxiaofeizhedouyouyigejiagemaodianle，yinweizhiqiangezhongyulunyijingrangdajiaxingchenglezheilidongxidouhenbianyideyinxiang，ruguoyidanxiaofeizhefaxiannizheilidedongxibiwoxinliyuqideyaogui，huozheshuobishimianjiagedouyaogui，neidajiahaihuizaicidaozheixieliangfanlingshidianxuangoushangpinma？”

buguanjiamengliangfanlingshidiandejiamengshangmennengbunengzhuandaoqian，danlingshouliangfanpinpaishizhuandaoqianle，yigejiandandejisuanti：（jiamengfei、baozhengjin、zhuangxiufei、shebeicaigou、shoucijinhuofeiyong）xdianshu，jinzhaoyiminglingshijiuyijuzhanhuojishiyizijin，zheihaibubaokuozaigongyingshang、jiamengshangzhijiandeshangpinchajia。

zhengshizheijuedejiamengfeiyongyijiwenzhuanbupeidechajia，cijilexuduoqiyefenfentouruzheigujiamenglangchao，duanduanshunian，bujinchuxianlelingshihenmang、zhaoyiminglingshi、haoxianglaidengdengqiandianguimodedengjituanhua、zibenhuayunzuodeliansuojiamengpinpai，yixiebendishangrenyexiudaoshangji，sharuliangfanlingshishichang，zaihenduodifangdouchuxianlebendiliangfanlingshijiamengpinpai，suodachudekouhaojibendoushi“changjiazhigong、haochibianyi、jingjishihui”。helingshihenmang、zhaoyiminglingshi、haoxianglaiyiyang，zheixiebendiliangfanlingshijiamengpinpaiyezaidalizhaoshang，shituxiyingengduorenjiameng。

zheichangyijiamengfeiyong、chajiaweimudedeshengyanzhixia，lingshidianyuekaiyueduo，lingshixingyeyechengxianchulequnxiongzhuluzhishi，zaijieshangzouliangbujiunengkandaobutongpinpaideliangfanshilingshidian，youdejinaizheduifangkaidianchengweile“linju”，youzhemianduiduimiankaidiandaqile“leitaisai”。

dan，keliuliangshiyouxiande。

zaimoshi、pinleitongzhihuayanzhongdeqingkuangxia，gejialiangfanlingshidianzhinengkaogezhongzhekoucuxiao，cong 88 zhedao 8 zhezaidao 75 zhe，duijiamengshanglaishuo，zheibingbushishenmehaoshier，biaomianshangkanshengyizuodehuore，danwanshangbidianzhihouyisuanzhang，genbenzhuanbuleshenmeqian，“xinxinkukumanghuobantian，yifenqianmeizhuandaohaidajinqubushao，zuihoujiushijipinpaifanghefangdongdagong。”

zaishejiaomeitishang，suibianyisou，youhenduoliangfanlingshidiankaizhangyilianggeyuejiuguanzhangdetiezi，danyucitongshi，gejialiangfanlingshipinpaidejiamengxinxiyedaochudoushi。gejialiangfanlingshipinpaiyefangxialeshenduan，xuanbu“6ge’0’zhengce”，ji0jiamengfei、0guanlifei、0xuanzhifei、0peixunfei、0fuwufei、0peisongfei，shenzhihaiyoupinpaifangzai0jiamengfei、0guanlifei、0peixunfei、0fuwufei、zhuangxiu0lirunjichushang，duimianji、kaijianyijiweizhizhaopaidabiaozheyicixingbutie10wanyuan。

zheiyushizhe，shichangzengliangyijingjianding，dajiabudebuzaicunliangshichanglisisha，yebudebujiasuzhenghehebing，zaimengyankuangben5 nianhou，lingshouliangfanpinpaijinrulecankudecunliangboyijieduan，kaoyanjiamengshangmendeshihoudaole。

yemanshengzhanghoudeliangfanshilingshijiamengmoshi，haishijixianxiashangyejiedalegehuaiyang。meiyoudujiapeifang、meiyouchayihuagongyinglian，jinpingkuaisukuozhang，pinpaifangjiunengzuoshoujuejiamengshouru，rangqitaxingyepoweiyanhong，douzhengyueyueyushishitufuzhizheigedimenjiangaojiamengshourudemoshi，yituquanjinyidabiqian，zailagaozaizibenshichangdeshizhi，zhiyujiamengzhedesihuo，bingbuzaitamendekaolvzhinei。

这，已经有了苗头。

duiyuliweilaishuo，tahenqingxingfangqilejiamengliangfanlingshidian，xianzai，tademianguanhaikaizhe，erneixiejiamengliangfanlingshidiande，yijinghuanlejicharenle。

（文内皆为化名）