wen | shenxiang liuyalan

dangyijianjiankuaidisongshangmen，chaikaihezideneiyikenishifouxiangguo——wozhendebixumaitama？wulunshiguide，haishibianyide。dang“duansheli”dejingshenkuaiganzhichongtianlinggai，nishifouxiangguo——wozhendebixurengdiaotama？

quanqiumeinianshengchandeyusanzongshuyuewei20yiba，eryusandelilunshoumingkezhangda10nian。jishiwomenjiangyusan“zheshou”wei5nian，wunian100yibadechanliangyewanquanchaoguoledangqiandiqiu82yirenkouzongshu；quanqiumeinianshengchanyue500yishuangwazi，pingjunfenjisuoyoudiqiuren，meirennenghuode6shuang；quanqiumeinianshengchandayue1000yijianyifu，tongshihuidiuqi210yijianyifu，shishangdekuaisuchaoliuxia，“chuanjicijiureng”delinianrangmeinianyoudayue59000dundeershouyifucongoumeiyijiyazhouyundaonanmeizhou，erqizhongmaibudiaodeyifugaoda39000dun，zheixieyiwujiubeidiuqizaileshamoli。

tianbumandewuzhiyuwang，guoshengdeshangpinshengchan，wujiezhixiaofeibeihoudeyuanxiongbuzhiyiren。

shinianqian，bbccengweiraozheiyihuatipaishelejilupian《the men who made us spend》（wujiezhixiaofeideyuanxiong）。shinianhoudejintian，qingkuangbingmeiyougaibian，faneryuyanyulie——zhizaoshangrengzairenweidisuoduanshangpindeshiyongshouming，pinpaifangrengzaibuduanzhizaoxingainianbingjiasugengxinhuandai，guanggaoshangrengzailecibupidifanmaineixiebingfeigangxude“jiaolv”。

“worenweixiaofeizhebingfeizhenzhengdezuikuihuoshou。”cengzailianhelihuadanrenleshinianceodepaul polmantanyan：“tamendangranshixiaofeidezhuti，dantamenweishenmeyaoxiaofei？yinweitamenshoudaolejidadeguli。dangwomenrengdiaoyiyangdongxishi，tabingbuhuizhendexiaoshi。bucunzaizhenzhengdexiaoshi，tazhishiqulediqiudelingyigedifang。erzheidailaidehouguoyuelaiyueyanzhong。”

图源：青山资本2024年中研究报告

缩短产品寿命，增加维修难度

zaimeiguojialifuniyazhoulifumoershidongdadao4550haodeyigexiaofangzhanli，youyigedengpaocong1901nianzhuangshewanchenghoujiuyizhifaliangzhidaojintian，yizhiliangle123nian。renmenshenzhiweilezheigedengpaojianleyigeguanfangwangzhan，congguanwangdezhibozhongnikeyikandaotadeshishizhuangkuang，kandaotachixude、weiruodeguangmang。

zheigedengpaoshishougongchuizhierchengde，tanzhidengsi，huangtongdizuo。1890niandaihouqiyouxieerbidianqigongsiyumeiguoehaiezhoudexieerbishengchanzhizao。dengpaojingliguoliangcijiaozhangshijiandeximie，yicishi1976nianxiaofangzhanbanjia，ximiele22fenzhong，lingyicishi2013niandianyuanxitongguzhang，ximiele9xiaoshi45fen。

直播中发亮的“百年灯泡”，图源Centennial Light官网

zheiwanquanfanchangyuwomenjintiangesanchawujiuxuyaohuandengpaodetiyan。zaozai1920nian，dengpaoshengchanshangjiuyijingkeyishengchangongzuoshizhangchaoguo2500xiaoshidedengpaole。dancihou，dengpaodeshiyongshoumingbuduanbianduan——

1924nian12yue23ri，choumingzhaozhude“taiyangshenkateerlianmeng”chengli，badengpaoshoumingxianzhizaile1,000xiaoshi。ousilang、feilipu、tongyongdianqidenggongsidoucanyulezheiyilianmeng。

taiyangshenkateerduiyu1000xiaoshishiyongshoumingfeichangyange，beikateerxieyiyueshudemeiyijiagongchangdouyaodingqixiangruishidezhongxinceshishiyanshijiquyangpin，ruguonajiagongsideyangpinshiyongshoumingchaoguohuoduanyubiaozhunshijian，tamenhuibeifakuan。chaoguoshengchanzhibiaodegongsiyehuibeifakuan。

灯泡寿命下降趋势，图源柏林档案馆

yigedengpao5yuannengyong20nian，yigedengpao5yuannengyongbannian，nagenengdailaigengduodeshangyeliyi？xianranshihouzhe。

tongyangde“taolu”yezaidayinjilingyushangyan。xinpian、guangchuanganqi、dianchihedoukeyizuduandayinjimohedeshiyong，erbuwanquanshiyinweimeiyoumoshui。yijiahuishoudayinjimohebingtigonglianjiazhihuanfuwudegongsimoheshijie（cartridge world）cenggaosubbc，jinzaibeimeimeinianjiuyou3yi5000wange（buwanquankongde）mohezuizhongbeifeiqi。

gengzhimingdezeshifaguotingzhijihuaxingbaofeixiehui（jiancheng hop）duipingguogongsidediaocha，gaixiehuirenwei，pingguogongsi“weizengjiaxiaoliangshishilejihuaxingbaofeidezongticelve，zhizepingguoguyixianzhiyonghuweixiuiphone、macdengshebei，yibaohuanquandemingyishezhixuliehao，jinzhiyonghushiyongdisanfangpeijian，bingqiekeyitongguotiqian“jihuaguoshi”laojiupeijianzuzhiyonghuweixiu，congerrangyonghuqugenghuanquanxindeshebei。

“yuelaiyueduodegongsizairangweixiugongzuobiandekunnan。”ifixitchuangshirenkaier·weiensizainetflix dejilupian《lijigoumai》zhongzhijiezhizepingguodewuxianerji——“meigeerjineibuyoudianchi，chongdianheneiyeyoudianchi，womenwufadakaitamenlaigenghuanrenheyikuaidianchi。dianchihuizai18geyuehuo2nianhouchuxiantuihua。neishihounibiewutafa，zhinengmaixinde。”

不断更新换代，甚至“即用即抛”

ruguoshuo“jihuabaofei”shiqiangzhidirangshangpinbeidong“guoshi”，neime“gengxinhuandai”，jiushitongguoyixiliedezhuguanyingxiang，rangshangpinzaixiaofeizhexinzhongzhudong“guoshi”。

shuxishuma3c、jiadianderendouhuitingguoyigecierjiao“huanjizhouqi”——zheishichangshanghexiaofeizhedeboyi，keguanlaishuo，xiaofeizhedehuanjizhouqiyingqujueyuchanpindeshiyongshouming，zheiyeshishangwenzhongshangjiamenxiangyao“jihuabaofei”rangchanpintiqiansiwangdezhuyaoyuanyin。danxianzai，zuoyouxiaofeizhehuanjideyinsubiandefuza。

jishudiedaixia，buluowudesixianghuirangyonghuxiangyaochangxin。zaishoujixingye，5g、zhedieping、ai……zheixiejishujiediandebaofa，yidingchengdushangcujinlehuanjijiezoudejiasu。danjishujinburigongyizu，bingfeisuoyoudejishujinzhandounengrangxiaofeizhemaidan。zheiliangnian，shoujichanpinchuangxindefashankechenyijingrang“jihaizhanshu”xiadegengxinhuandaibianchenglekuangduixingnengbiaoshudegainianyouxihewaiguanweidiaodeshishangbipin。

meicuo，shishangchaoliudeqianbianwanhua，shishangyeshijiedebudingqiliwu。shoujishishangdanpinhuadequshiyijinghenmingxianle，gengbuyongshuoshishangyebenshen。

“woqingchudiganjuedaowobixuweizijishuzui。”cengzaiadidasidanrenpinpaizongcaiailike（eric liedtke）biaoshi：“yigengkuaidesuduchuangzaogengduodechanpin，buzhishiadidasi，suoyoudeshishangpinpaidouyouzheiyangdexingwei。”

genjuquanshangyanbaotongji，h&mnianshangxin2.5wankuan，zaranianshangxinyue3.5wankuan，sheinnianshangxinyue130wankuan。erjuqingshanzibenyanjiubaogaoxianshi，2023nianzhongguoguimoyishangqiyewanchengfuzhuangchanliang193.9yijian，renjunnianxinzeng13.85jianyifu。quanqiumeinianshengchanyifuchaoguo1000yijian，pingjunmeifenzhongshengchanchaoguo190250jian，quanqiumeinianshengchanbangqiumaoyue15yiding，pingjunmeifenzhongshengchanyue2854ding。

xiatianyao“duobaan”，dongtianyao“meilade”，nideyijuli，sihuyongyuanshaoyijianyifu。juguji，chaoguoyibandekuaishishangshangpinjiangzaibudaoyiniandeshijianlibeidiuqi，qizhongdabufenbeitianmaihuofenshao，haiyouyibufenbeiyunshudaofeizhou、lameidengdiduicheng“lajishan”。

haoxiaoxishi，kuaishishangqiyezhengzaixingdongqilai，birusheinzhengzaikuozhanqifeiqiwulingtianmaixiangmudefugaifanweibingtongguogoumaiqitapinpaishengyudekucunmianliaolaizhongxinliyong，haichuangjianleshein exchangeershoujiaoyipingtai。

danhuaixiaoxishi，daduoshuqiyebingweicongyuantoushangkongzhiguoshengdechanliang，shenzhishexian“huanbaowudaoxingxuanchuan”，yejiushi“piaolv”（greenwashing）。

yigegengkepadequshishi，“gengxinhuandai”haodaideyougegainianyoutou，nimenshifoufaxian，xianzaiyicixing“yongwanjireng”deshangpinyuelaiyueduole。

guoquyizhangmobuzaibujiyenengyongshangliangsangeyue，xianzaiyicixingxilianjin，yicixingyujin，yicixingchufangshijin，shenzhiyicixingzhuobuzhujiandakaishichang。guoqudeyicixingneikuzhishilvxingyongpin，xianzaitamenchengweileyixiexiaofeizhederichangyongpin。zheiyangdelizihaiyouhenduo，biruyicixingmaoshapen，jiuzaibazhurenmen“liangzhouyixi”dexiguangaicheng“liangzhouyihuan”。ruciyilai，xiaofeigaichanpindepinlvziranjiutigaolehenduo。

拿捏心理，制造需求

jinguanjintianyijingyouhenduorenzaichangshitiaochu“xiaofeizhuyi”dexianjing（birudoubankouzu），danbukefourendeshi，shangyedehuahongjiulvrengranyigezhongfangshishentoudaowomenshenghuodefangfangmianmian。

“weileyinmanzhenxiang，tamenwusuobuyongqiji。”zaiyamaxungongzuole15niandeqianshouxiyonghutiyanshejishimaren costatanyanxiaofeishiyimenyituqingxi、lingrenfeijieqiegaojingliandekexue，“zhongdianjiuzaiyu——（womenyao）zainichanshengxiangyaogoumaichanpindeyuwangshi，jianshaonirenzhensikaodeshijian。”

jujigechangjian“taolu”——zhiqianhenduoniandeshuang11doushizaibanyekaiqiang，zheibeihoushirenmenzaiyewanzikonglihuimingxiandiyubaitiandekexuelunzheng（dukedaxueguanyuchongdongxiaofeideshiyanfenxiledanaozaiyitianzhongdebutongshijianduijuecedefanying）；pingtaixianshi“jinsheng3jian”huo“yiyou5896rengoumai”denganshikucunbuzudexinxi，jiasuxiaofeizhejuecedejinpogan；dacujiediancaiyongdaliangxianyanyansehedongtaiyuansuxiyinyonghuzhuyibingcijikuaisuxingdong；pingtaitigongjishiyouhui，rumanjianhongbao、youhuiquan、jifenfanxiandeng，rangxiaofeizheganjue“xianzaimaizuihuasuan”，bingxunsuwanchengjiaoyi……

buzhibujuezhong，nide“gouwuche”yicicibeitianman，beiqingkong，youzaicibeitianman。

chulemanzujibendeshengcunxuqiu，xiaofeiyebianchengleyizhong“dingweixitong”，wuhuashehuidiwei，rangrenmenzhujianchanshengbaiwuqingjie——yaoxiangchengweineiyangderen，wuxuzuochurenheziwotishengfangmiandenuli，zhixuyaotongguo“goumai”jiunengyongyouzheixietezhi。zheizhong“dingwei”chuleduiyushehuishenfendetixian，haiyuelaiyueherenshengtaiduqiangxingguanlian——“mai”=“aita”，“mai”=“yueji”。

zheishibitianjiajige“yijiangoumai”deanniugengjiagaojidexiaofeicijishu。jishinimeiyouxiaofeide“zhudongyuwang”，xiaofeidexuqiuyehuibansuizhejiaolvbeizhizaochulai。

shukoushuilingdaopinpailishidelindeanliyijingxierulehenduoshangxueyuandekecheng。renmenhuishukou，dancongmeiyouguoshiyongshukoushuidexiguan，yebuqingchuweishenmeyaoyongzhuanyedeshukoushui。tamenyinrule“halitosis”yici，xianxiangdazhongjieshikouchoushishenme。zaitongguogezhongshejiaoxiaogushigaosunikouchouwentiyouduoyanzhong。zai1923niandeguanggaozhong，lishidelinchuangzaolezhumingdeguanggaowenan：often a bridesmaid but never a bride（weirenzuobinxiang，heshiweixinniang），anshikouchouwentirangnvrenshiquhunyindejihui。

dangchanpindegongnengxingherenmendejiaolvdianzhonghe，xiaoliangjiuhuishunjianbaofa。zheiyidian，meizhuanghufuchanpinduiyingderongmaojiaolvgengweiwaixian。youduoshaonvshengconglaimeiyouyongwanguoyizhikouhong，danrengranrenbuzhugouruyizhiyouyizhixindekouhong？youyouduoshaorenyounengdiyushuailaodejiaolv，jujuekangshuaichanpindemozhou？

谁为无节制消费买单？

rifuyiri，womenmailexuduogenbenyongbudaodedongxi。xiaofeixingyeyexianrulewujiezhineijuandeexingxunhuan。erwomenduiyuzheizhongwujiezhixiaofeidehuaichuyiwusuozhi。

“（yamaxun）wangyeshangdemeigexiangsudoujingguoleceshihewushuciyouhua，yizuidakenengdixiyinnigoumaichanpin。neishihouwojuedewoyouhualegouwutiyan，rangrengengrongyizhaodaorangrenxihuandechanpin。danwomeixiangguo，tachengweiyuelaiyuegaoxiaodeyinqinghou，huidailaishenmehouguo。womenconglaimeixiangguo，zheixiechanpinzuizhongdouqunaerle。”maren costashuo。

tapaochuleyigewujiedanyouguanjiandewenti——xiaofeidezhongdian，daodizainaer？

congwuzhishangkan，zheishiyigehuanbaowenti。youdeshangpinbeixiaofeizhegoumaishiyonghoupaoqilangfei，youdeshangpinzecongweizouchuguoshangdianshenzhicangku，chengwei“zhixiaopin”。cengzaitouxinggongzuodeanna sackszaitiktokshangfabuleyixilie“fanlaji”shipin：yixieshechipinweilefangzhizhixiaodechanpinbeidazhechushou，jingranzijibabaodaihuapohouzhijiediuqi。suihougengduoderenfenxianglezijisuozaideqiyerangyuangongxiaohuiwanhaoxinpindegushi。

netflix dejilupian《lijigoumai》shenzhitichuleyigerangrennanyijieshoudejielun——rujinsuliaobaozhuangshangdekehuishoubiaozhi，henduodoushipianrende，juedaduoshusuliaogenbenbukehuishou，tieshangzheixiebiaozhihaowuyiyi，tazhishirangxiaofeizhezaigoumaishijianshaoneixindezuieganeryi。

zuizhiguande“fanche”anlishihanzhuang“yueshifengyin（innisfree）”cengtuichuguoyikuan“zhipingbaozhuang”dechanpin，danshijishangzhiqiaolimianrengranshisuliaoping。“kehuishou”daodishipinpaizhendeweixiaofeipinzhaodaoleguisu，haishilingyizhongcijixiaoliangdebaxi？

danconggengfuzadeshijiaokan，zheishiyigeshehuiwenti，yeshiyigezhudingwujiedewenti。xiaofeituidongzherenleishehuidejinbu——jingjihuoli、jishuchuangxin、shehuifazhan、shenghuogaishandoulibukaixiaofeidedongli。shixiangruguoyiyezhijian，renmendouzhenzhenglizhileqilai，liangruweichu，jianghuiyouduoshaozhixutanta，duoshaoliansuofanyingfasheng？yinci，xiaofeimeiyouzhongdian，yebunengyouzhongdian。

tantaowujiezhixiaofeidewentiyebingfeiyaochengweijiduanhuanbaozhuyizhe，danhuoxuwomenkeyiyoujihuisikao，fengkuangdeshengchan、juanbudongdeshangye、cijigengduowujiezhidedizhixiaofei、dailaigengduodeziyuanlangfeihehuanjingfudan，zheiyangdeexingxunhuanshifouyoupojiezhidao？

xiaoshihoucengzaiyuwenkebenshangdudaoribenduanpianxiaoshuo《wei——chulai》。danyuan「xiaofei」bushineigegushilidejudong。