按：aomenshiyizuoyimeishierwenmingdechengshi，2017nian，aomenbeilianheguojiaokewenzuzhipingwei“chuangyichengshimeishizhidou”，chengweijichengdou、shundezhihoudisangehuocishurongdezhongguochengshi。aomendeyinshihuayangfanduo，caishicaipindujutese。bujinyoucaipinkaojiudecanting，yeyourangrenjingxidelubianxiaopumeiwei。qizhong，tushengpurenmeishi、pushidanta、liangcha、zhushengmiandengjishixiangyuzhongwaidemeishi，yeshijixubaohuhechuanchengdefeiwuzhiwenhuayichan。aomenmeishidebeihou，yunzangzhetadutedelishiherenwen。

在《人居澳门：五星照耀下的莲花》yishuzhong，zuozhedanjixiangjiangshuleaomenmeishibeihoudelishi——zi16shijizhongqikaishi，yuelaiyueduodeputaoyarenzaiaomenjuzhu、kaizhanshangmaohuodong，zhongxiyinshiwenhuazaidutedehuanjingzhongjinxingjiaoliuronghe。zi19shijiyilai，suizhechengshirenkoudezengjia，aomendeshangyehuodongyejianqupinfan，chulechalouzhiwai，baobanjiuxiheyanhuidejiulouyezhujianchuxian。zaidutedeyinshiwenhuafenweidangzhong，yizhongcaiweizhudejiulouhechalouzhanyouzhongyaodiwei。

20shijichu，aomendefengchengpaichushizhizuodefengweixiaocaizaifulongxinjiedengdixingqi。suizhezhongxiwenhuadejiaoliu，aomenkaishileronghegongshengdeguocheng，qicanyinwenhuayijinyibujizhongxiyinshizhidacheng。jutongji，dangshiaomenyouxicantingyubaijian，zhongcanjiulou200duojian，kafeidian、kuaicandian、zhongxibingdian、fengweixiaochiyishuyibaiji，bianbupuguocai、aomentushengpucai、zhongguogedidecaixijiqitaguojiademeishi。

kangrizhanzhengshiqi，neidirenshitebieshiyixiesichutaonandaoaomen，weiaomendecanyinyedailailezijinhejishurencai，tebieshidifangxiaochihejiaxiangfengwei，youciaomenzhongcanjinyibuxiangduoyanghuadefangxiangfazhan。diercishijiedazhanjieshuhou，yipiluoyeguigendeoumeijidongnanyaguiqiaocanyujingyingaomendecanyinxingye，dailailegailianghoudexican。bujinruci，suizheyipiwaishang、fuhuhejishugongrenzhanzhuandaoaomenmousheng，zhongxicanyinyegengjianguimo。20shiji70niandai，gangshijiulou、sijihuoguomengya，waiguodeliansuokuaicandian、yuchihaixianjiujiayexiangjidengluaomen。1999nianaomenhuiguizuguoyijijinru21shijiyihou，waizizhengxiangjinzhuaomen，chuxianleduojiaguojidingjijiudian、jianzimingchushisihegaodangzhuticanting，shiaomenyinshifengweihecanyinyegengjutese。huigui25zhounianzhiji，rangwomengenzhedanjixiangchibianaomen。

《舌尖上的美食》（有删节）

文 | 单霁翔

土生葡人美食烹饪技艺

meishishiaomenchengshifengqingdexiangzheng，tushengpurenmeishiyoushiqifengqingdejuxiangbiaoda。zuoweiaomenzhongyaodezuqunzhiyi，tushengpurenzhuyaozhizaiaomenchusheng、juyouputaoyaxuetongdejumin，baokuopurenyuhuarenhuoqitazuqunjiehedehouyi，yijizhangqihuoshudaizaiaomenshenghuodepurenjiqihoudai。

16shiji，putaoyarenkongzhileouyazhijianyijiyinduhefeizhoudabufendiquzaineidemaoyiluxian。dangshi，putaoyadeshangrenhehaiyuanlaidaoyazhou，yuyindu、maliujiadengdiqudenvzitonghunbingdanxialehenduoouyahunxueer。houlaimingdaishixinghaijinzhengce，putaoyarenzhuanerjinxingzhongrizhijiandemaoyi，yikaishiyuribenjizhongguonvzijiehun。jinruqingdai，suizhemaoyiguimodekuoda，aomendepurenhezhongguorendoudaliangzengjia。youdepurenyijingzaidangdijuzhuleshudairen，yeyouxiejiadaikoulaiaomenshenghuodepurenhehunxueer。tamenkaishishuoyueyu，bingyudangdishangrenhoudaiguangfantonghun。

dao17shiji，zhongputonghunzaiaomenchengneiyishishifenpubiandexianxiang。cengyouyesuhuishibaogaoshuzhongjizai：“aomenpurenqiqiedaduoshizhongguorenhejuyouzhongguoxuetongderen。”yingguorenmangdizai《aomenjishi》zhongjizai：“quanchengchuyimingputaoyachushengdefunvzhiwai，jumindeqizibushizhongguorenjiushizhongpuhunxueerhoudai。”chuleputaoyananxingquhuarennvxingweiqi，yeyoubushaohuarennanxingquputaoyanvxingweiqi。mingmoqingchushirenqudajunzai《guangdongxinyu》zhongjizai：“purendeyitangrenweixu，juaoxianghe。”jiuzheiyang，zaiaomenzhujianxingchengleyigexindezuqun——tushengpuren。

tushengpurenjirenzuizhiguandeganshoujiushiwenhuajiaorong。tushengpurenbeixingrongcheng“yongkuaizichiniupai，yongdaochachifan”dezuqun。yitushengpurendejiajuyinshiweili，zaocanyibanchimianbao、hekafei，jingchangjiajidan、xiangchanghuohuotui；youshichimiantiao、changfen。wucan、wancanyibanchizhongshifancai，youshichimianbao、hekafei。zaitushengpurenzhongliuxingde“shuangzhonghunli”gengshizhongxiwenhuajiaorongdedaibiao。suowei“shuangzhonghunli”，jiushiyifangmianbaochixifangtianzhujiaohunlideyishi，tongshiyouhuianzhaozhongguochuantonghunliyishizaijubanyichang。zai20shiji70niandai，yichangdianxingdetushengpurenhunlishenzhihuijuxinghaojichang，shouxianjuxingyichangchuantongdetianzhujiaohunli，zhihoujuxingyichangzhongshihunli，baokuokujia、jingchadechuantongyishi。xinrenzaoshangqujiaotang，xiawujiuzaichalouzhaodailaibinchicha，wanshanghaiyaozaizhongshijiuloudabaijiuyan，rucicainengrangsuoyoubinkemanyi。

tushengpurenzhangqijinrunzailiangzhongbutongwenhuaheshenghuoxisudeshehuihuanjingzhizhong，zaizhong、puwenhuabingcundejichushang，zaixianghuxishou、ronghezhong，danshengleyizhongxinshide、duyoudeaomenwenhua，tushengpurenyinshiwenhuabianshiqizhongdedaibiao。

tushengpurenmeishijiehegedipengrensuozhang，jinglishubainianderonghuiguantong，xingchengyizhongdutedeyinshiwenhua。16shijichu，putaoyarenchengchuandonglai，yanzhefeizhouxihaian，raoguohaowangjiao，jingguoyindu、maliujiadaodaaomen。zaineigeyifengfanweidonglideniandai，zaimanzhangdehaishanghangxingheyanantingboqijian，putaoyarenjiangfeizhouheyazhoubutongdiquyijibutongminzudeshenghuofangshi、yinshixiguanhewenhuaxisujianjianrouhezaiyiqi。tamenzaizhongguonanhaizhibindeaomendingjushi，jiangzishendeouzhouwenhuayijiyantugedidebutongxisuyuhuarendeshenghuofangshixiangjiehe，zhujianxingchengle“tushengpurenmeishipengrenjiyi”。putaoyarenjiangzaishiwuheyinpinzhongtianjiadegezhongdiaoliaopintongchengwei“xiangliao”，erdongfangxiangliaoshiouzhou-yuandonghaishangmaoyidezhuyaoshangpin，weiputaoyarendailailefenghoudelirun。putaoyarenshizuizaolejiedongfangxiangliaobingjingyingmaoyideouzhouren。kancheng“zuichudaideronghecai”detushengpucaiyiputaoyashipengdiaofangfaweijidi，rongheleaomendepengrensuozhangheyinshifengsu，tianjialedongnanyaduyoudexiangliao，shizuididaodeaomencaizhiyi。

zhengzongdeputaoyacaiweidaojixian、jitian、jisuan，kouweinonglie，yishao、ju、kao、huidengweizhuyaopengrenjifa。tushengpurendepengrenjiyizeronghelezhongxifangdepengrenwenhua。liru，puguojishitushengpurenshouchuangxingdironghuizhongshipengdiaojideshaofa，ranhoujiarudongnanyadexiangliao，zuihouyongxishidekaofazhicheng；menkaozhurouzecaiyongzhongguochuantongdeshaofa，xianjiangrouzhushuhoufangzaizhuyouzhongzhazhijiaohuang，ranhoushiyongputaoyacaichangyongdediaoliaohujiao、zanghonghua、guiyehesuanmodengpengzhiercheng；“shenjinfan”yeshiyidaozhongxihebidezhushi，yixihongshizhidiaoweidemifanweizhu，peiyidaxiangchangpian、zhongshihuotui、jirou、putaogan、zhushudejidan、tudouhezhamianbaogandengzhicheng。

ju《xiangshanxianzhi》jizai，yangku（zhuku）“laiziyangbo，turenyouzhongzhe”；shuhelandou“jinshushiniandezhongyuaoyi，jinchuchuzhongzhi”；yiyi“chuwaiguo，yueyangcongmiao”；yezhucai（fanjilan）“qizhonglaizifanbo，yirenduozhongzhi”。qingdou、woju、yangcong、ganlan、shuitianqin、boluohefanlizhidengzuizaojunyouputaoyarendairuzhongguo。putaoyadelachang、heishuilan、qingshuilan、ganlanyoudengyijingchengweiaomenmeishidezhuyaoyuanliao。majiexiu，yuanzipuyubacalhau，shiyizhongjiangxueyuyongyanazhiquebingbufengganbaocunerchengdeshicai，beiyuwei“putaoyarendeguobaojishicai”，yeshizhuduoaopucaidezhuliao，peiyidongfangdeshicairumifandeng，zhichengdemajiexiuchaofankanchengyijue。

lingwai，putaoyarenzaihanghaitujingzhidi——yinduhedongnanyadengdisoujidegezhongxiangliao，rukali、rougui、hujiao、roudoukou、jianghuangdengyebeiguangfanyongyuaopumeishidezhizuozhizhong。zhongguoguangdongdiqudeacai、xianya、xiancai、cong、lachang、huotui、mifendengyechangchangchengweifanzhuoshangdezhujiao。tushengpucaishiaomendutedemeishi。tushengpurenyipushipengdiaojiyiweijichu，yonglaizifeizhou、dongnanyajiyindudengdidebutongxiangliaohepeiliaolaipengdiaocaise，jiashangzhongguocaidepengrenfangfahekouwei，pengzhichurouhezhongputesedejiayao，houyanbianchengjintianmeiweideaomentushengcai。shubainianguoqu，yiaomentushengmeishiweidaibiaodeaomenteseyinshiwenhua，shenshoubendirenjiquanqiugediyoukedexiai。

2021nian，tushengpurenmeishipengrenjiyichenggongruxuanguojiajifeiwuzhiwenhuayichandaibiaoxingxiangmuminglu。zheixiangjiyidebaohuhechuanchengjiangdedaogengduodeguanzhuhezhichi。

葡式蛋挞制作技艺

pushidantashiaomenxiaochizhongzuiyoumingdeyizhong，youcheng“puta”。putashidantajiazudeyiyuan，“ta”zhixianliaowailudexishixianbing。yongjidan、niunai、tangzhichengdedanta，zaiouzhouyiyoushubainiandelishi。20shiji20niandaichuandaozhongguoguangzhou，

guangzhouchushibazhongshidunnaiyu“ta”jiehe，fazhanchuleguangshidanta。houlai，guangshidantayuxiajiao、chashaobao、ganzhengshaomaibingchengyueshizaocha“sidatianwang”。

xiangchuan，pushidantadanshengyu200nianqian，youxiudaoyuandexiunvmenfaming。dangshizhizuoxiunvpaoshihuiyongdaodanqing，weilebimianshengyudedanhuanglangfei，bianyiqiweiyuanliaozhizuogaodian。houlai，youbingdianmaixialezheigegaodianpeifangbingjiangqifayangguangda。yinweibingdianweiyulisibendebeilunqu，suoyizheizhongpushidantayebeichengwei“beilunta”，zhijinrengshilisibendezhumingmeishi。

famingaomenpushidantadejibushizhongguoren，yebushiputaoyaren，ershiyingguorenandelu·situo，zheiyeshiaomenduoyuanwenhuajiaorongdeyigesuoying。andeluyingongzuoyuanyindingjuaomen。1989nian，tahetaitaimajialiezailuhuankaisheandelubingdian，zhudadechanpinshixinxian、jiankangdeoushidianxin。zaiaomenzuoshengyi，putaoyarenshizhongyaodexiaofeiqunti，yinciandelujuedingzhizuopushidantayiweijieshenghuozaiaomendeputaoyarendesixiangzhiqing。zaimeiyoupeifangdeqingkuangxia，andelujiejianyueshidunnai，ronghecaiyongyingguoshidegaodianzuofa，gailiangmianfen、danyehenaiyoudebili，chuangzhichubeishourenmenhuanyingdeaomenpushidanta。aomenputayuguangshidantatongzhongyouyi，aomenputadetapishiyicengcengde，taxinfangnaiyou；guangshidantadetapisuxiang，taxinyoudanxing，kougansibuding。

aomenpushidantadezhizuoguochengfenweizhizuotapihedanjianglianggebuzhou。hongbeishifuxianyongdijinmianfenroucuochengguanghuadetapimiantuan，jiangmiantuanfanfuzhediehoujingzhisongchi，ranhoubamiantuanqiechengxiaokuaifangrutamoqiachengdantaxing；zaijiangniunai、shatangchongfenjiaoban，daoruchundanhuangdedanye，jiarujilianhunhechengdanjianghoudaozaitapishang，fangrujulujinxingjukao。xinxianchuludeaomenputaxiangqinongyu、tianerbuni，cengcengsusongdetapihejiaoxiangjinhuangdedanjiangshiaomenputadezhuyaotezheng。

xianzaiaomenxuduobingdiandouzhizuobinggongyingputa，dangejiabingdiansuoshiyongdepeifanghehongbeishoufageyoubutong。rujin，putayifazhanchengweiaomenbenditesetiandiandedaibiao，weidangdijuminheyoukesuoxiai。aomenyoujuhaicengtuichuzhuanshudeaomenputayoupiao，kejianputazaiaomenminzhongxinzhongdezhongyaodiwei。2020nian，putazhizuojiyibeilieruaomen《feiwuzhiwenhuayichanqingdan》。

竹升面

zuoweizhushi，miantiaozaizhongguoyichuanchengshuqiannian。yingedidezhifahecailiaobutong，xingchenglebutongpinzhongdemiantiao。qizhongguangdongquandanmianxiruyinsi，kouganshuanghuayoudanxiang，yinyizhushengdamianercheng，gucheng“zhushengmian”，shizhusanjiaodiqudechuantongtesemianshi。

zhushengmiansucheng“yuyeyinsi”。“yuye”zhimiantuansezehuangcan，“yinsi”zezhimiantiaoxiyounenhuadexingzhuang。zhizuozheiyimeishishi，renmenyizhuganyiluoyishengdezitaiweiqimingming，youhanyou“bubugaosheng”dehaozhaotou。zhushengmianyigaojinmianfen、yadan、jianshuiweicailiao，shiyongyadanhejianshuishiweizengjiamiantiaodedanxianghejiaojing。zhizuozhushengmian，xianjingcuofen、hemiandegongxuzhichengmiantuan；zaiyongzhugan（yin“gan”deyueyintong“gan”，yougankushuaibaizhiyi，suigaichengweizhusheng）yadamiantuan，damianshifuqizaizhushengdeyiduandantiaozhongfuyada（xingneishuyuchengcigongxuweizuosheng、tiaoshengheliansheng），shimiantuangengjiamishiyoujindu；jiezhejiangyapingchengbuzhuangdemianpilaihuizhediebingguoshengfen，ranhouqiechengtiaozhuang，zaizhimianchengtuan。

zaizhizuoguochengzhong，damianshifuxuyaoshulianzhangwomiandecailiaobili、ganshi、ruanyingjihoubochengdu，quanpingjingyanhejiqiao。xiamiandeguochengyehenyoujiangjiu，xuyaojiangmianfangzailoushaoli，ranhouyongzhangkuaizikuaisudasanmiantuan，jinjiezhexunsujiangmianlaoqiguolenghe，zuihouzaifanghuigunshuizhonghuizhuo。zheisandaolengrejiaotidegongxu，zaojiulezhushengmiandeshuangcuidanya。chuantongshifashijiangzhuhaodezhushengmian，jiashangyuntun、shuijiao、niunandengpeiliao，yijiyoudadiyu、yinxia、zhutonggudengaochengdetangdiyiqipinchang，yikezuochenglaomian。“liujizhoumian”shiaomendeyijiachuantonglaodian，lianxu12nianhuode“miqilinmeishizhinantuijie”。zaiaomenzheizuomeishizhidouli，huodezheiyangderongyushifennande。1945nian，“liujizhoumian”dechuangshirenliliuzaiaomenshalitouyidaikaishe“liuji”dapaidang，houlaichuanjileerzilimingjia，rujinyousunbeiliwenlongjingying。zuoweidisandaichuanren，liwenlongjianchishiyongchuantongdefangfazhizuozhushengmian。zheixiangkansiqingsongdegongyi，qishishixiangtilihuo，xuyaojingguoshangwancidefanfunianya，cainengzhizuochutongtouboruandemianpi。zhisuoyijianchichuantongzhifa，shiyinweizhushengnenggoujiangjianfenmianhuakai，tongshijiayamidu，shimiantiaogengshuanghuadanren。

xiriguangdongquandanmianyipingshougongzhizuo，yizhushengdamian，gongxufanfu。xingneiyibanyishituzhichuanchengdamianjiyi，xuetuxushuyuezhiyiniandeshijiancainengzhangwojiyi，shizizhierding。20shiji70niandai，aomenzhimianxingyekaishijixiehua，bufenhuoquanbugongxugaiyongjiqishengchan，dadatigaolechanliang，jiangdilechengben。jiqishengchanzhishizhushengmianshougongzhizuoquxiangshiwei，zaijiashangdamianjiyiyixuenanjing、xuhaofeijiaodatili，qichuanchengjidaixiangguanbumendefuchi。

suiranzhushengmianrengshishiminheyoukexiaidedidaotesemianshi，danaomenxianjinjinyoushujianmiandianyizhushengdamian。2020nian，aomentequzhengfuwenhuajujiangzhushengmianzhizuojiyilieruaomen《feiwuzhiwenhuayichanqingdan》，zheijiangyouzhuyuduiqijinxingbaohuchuancheng。

本文书摘部分节选自 《人居澳门：五星照耀下的莲花》，经出版社授权发布，较原文有删节。