上海夜店网

正在阅读:

dangangpaomenzaikuangben,yundongxiezhizaoyezhengzaidierugudi

saoyisaoxiazaijiemianxinwenapp

当昂跑们在狂奔,运动鞋制造业正在跌入谷底

congyixiangongchangkanyundongxiexingyedefanrongyuweiji。

文|硅谷101

yundongxiefuxingyezhengzaishangyanyichangyinrenzhumudexinlaogengti。laizimeiguodehoka、ruishideonangpaodengxinruipinpaizhengyichaoguo30%dezengsukuaisujueqi,eryixiechuantongjutouzaizhongguoshichangzezaoyuzengzhangpingjing。

congzuixincaibaoshujukejianzheizhongxianmingfancha:hokapinpaizai2025cainiandierjiduyingshoutongbizengzhang34.7%,dadao5.71yimeiyuan;onangpaodisanjidujingxiaoshouetongbizengzhang32.3%,chuangxiashangshiyilaixingao,qiyataidiqugengshixianle79.3%dejingrenzengzhang;saluomengzaizhongguoshichangkuaisukuozhang,sanjidumoyiyongyou165jiamendian,niandiyouwangdadao200jia。

zhongguopinpaiyezaizheilunbiangezhongzhanxianchuxindehuoli:antajituanshangbannianxieleishourudazhang18%zhi146yiyuan,tebupaobupinleixiaoshoutongbizengzhang25%。xiangbizhixia,chuantongjutounaikezai2025cainiandiyijidubiaoxiandimi,yingshou116yimeiyuan,tongbixiajiang10%,jinglirun10.51yimeiyuan,tongbixiajiang28%,qidazhonghuaquyingshoutongbijianshao3%。

raner,zaishichangfanrongdebiaoxiangzhixia,daigongchangdeshengcunzhuangkuangqueburongleguan。henduogongchangbudebulinglirunjiedan,laobanbujiyingkui,zhiqiunengjigongrenfagongziweichigongchangyunzhuan。zaizhongguo,yundongxiedaigongchangdeshengcunkongjianzhengzaibuduanbeiyasuo——yishuangshoujia500yuandeyundongxie,gongchangdelirunkenengzhiyou10yuan。zheizhongduancengshidelirunfenpei,zheshechuzhenggechanyeliandejiegouxingwenti。

zaizheiqi《guigu101》zhong,womenyaoqingleyiweizaiguangzhoushengengxieleigongyingliandeguwen justin liang(liangwenxin)。taconglingshoucaigoukuaruxieye,qinlileyundongxiecong“yundongshuxing”dao“richangchuanda”defengchaoyanbian,zhanzhuanyudapinpai、dulichangpaihedaigongchangzhijian。taconggongchangyixianshijiaojieshilesangezhongyaoxianxiang:

lirunweibo,shenzhi“linglirunjiedan”:justintoulu,xuduogongchangchaoguo90%dedingdanlaizidanyipinpai,yidankucunjiyahuoxiaoshouxiahua,gongchangdedajiliganjianying。erxianzai,yuancailiaoherengongchengbenbuduanshangzhang,xuduogongchangyijingbeipolinglirunyunzhuan,zhiweiweichigongrenxinshuiyuchangfangkaizhi。

chuangxinxianrutingzhi:naikedeairqidiandanshengyu1978nian,adidasideboostzhongdijishutuichuyu2015nian,erjinshinianlai,yundongxiejishuchuangxinyijiushijianjinshidehuancailiao、huanpeise,tupoxingdechanpinjiduxique。justingengyizijicanyudeyikuanhaozibaiwande“lalianxie”weili,tantaochuangxinweihelvlvzaishichangpengbi。

xiaofeixuqiu“quyundonghua”,shichangquyuduoyuan:jujiabangongheshushifengchaogaibianlexiaofeizhexuanze,yuelaiyueduorencongyundongxiezhuanxiangtuoxie、jujiaxie,yundongxieshichangzhengzaijingli“quzhongxinhua”defenliu,zaijiashang“neijuan”deguochaopinpaibuduanyadijiage,xingyezhengxianruexingjingzhengdexunhuan。

justindeguanchadianfulewomencongcaibaoyushichangshujuzhongdelaidezhiguanyinxiang:yundongxiekansifengguang,zhizaoyeyizaixuanyabianyuan。

以下是部分访谈精选

01 繁荣背后的生存困局:500元的运动鞋,工厂只赚10元

duxiu:congnidejiaodukan,nijuedezuijinzheigexingyeyoushenmebijiaodadebianhuahuozhequshima?

justin:zuidadebianhuajiushijietoufengchaoheyouciyanshendeyundongxiefengchao。wulunshiyiqingqianhaishiyiqinghou,shichangdehexinqushidouhejietoufengchaomiqiexiangguan。zaozai2012nianzhiqian,shimianshangzhudaodexieleizhuyaoshishizhuangxie、nvzhuangxiehuozhenanzhuangpixie,zheixiexiangduizhengshidexiezi。dangshi,yundongxiedeyingyongchangjingjibenshangjuxianyuyundong,erbushirichangchuanzhe。

dancong2012niankaishi,suizhejietouwenhuadexingqi,yundongxiehebanxiekaishiliuxingqilai,zhujianchengweizhulixiekuan。zheigechaoliuyijingwufanizhuan,henshaoyourenzaibashizhuangxiehuozhepixiezuoweirichangzhulidechuandaxuanze。

duxiu:nimenzhuanyerenshizaipingjiayikuanxiezidechuangxinshi,zhuyaoguanzhunaxiebiaozhun?

justin:congxingyedejishujiaodulaikan,womenrenweiyikuanxiezidechanpinli,shouxiantixianzaitadegongnengshang,ergongnengtongchangtongguocailiaochuangxinlaishixian。biruhenzaozhiqianortholitepaomian,dangshizuidademaidianshikangjunhenaicai。zheizhongpaomiancailiaoxianzaiyijingpuji,danzaidangnianjueduishifeichangchuangxindejishu,xianzaizhongguotaiwandegongchangyijingnengbazheizhongcailiaozuodejibianyiyouhao,dandangchutaqueshishiyicitupo。

suoyi,womenpingjiachuangxinshi,shouxianhuikancailiao。biru,yigexiediruguonengshejichusizhongbutongdemidu,zheijiushicailiaoshangdetupo。qicishijiegoushangdechuangxin,birucongputongdejiaoshuizhanheshengjidaochabahuozhemokuaihuazuhesheji,zheidoushijiegoushangdeliangdian。danruguozhishizaipeiseshangzuowenzhang,neijiubunengsuanshizhenzhengdechuangxinle。

duxiu:neixianzaizhuliudeyundongxiejiegouyounaxiemoshi?

justin:muqianzhuliudeyundongxiejiegoufenweiliangdalei:

diyileishibanxie,yejiaoliuhuaxie。zheizhongxiezijishuhanliangbugao,gongyishiyongshengxiangjiaojiangxiebaoguoqilai,zaifangjingaowengaoyadeliuhualuli“zhushu”,rangxiangjiaobianying。kuangweidexiejiushidianxingdeliuhuaxie。liuhuaxiesuiranlishiyoujiu,danmeishenmejishushangdegexin。

dierleishilengzhanxie,yejiushimuqianzhuliudeyundongxiejiegou,baokuolanqiuxie、paoxiedeng,birunaike、adidasi、anta、liningzheixiepinpai。tadezhizuogongyishiyongjiaoshuijiangdadi、zhongdihexiemianzhanzaiyiqi,zhanjuleyundongxieshichang90%defene。

dui,congqishiniandaikaishi,yundongxiedejiegoujishujibenyijingguhuale。suiranhoulaiyouyixiexindesheji,birubuxuyaojiaoshuijiunengbaxiemianhexiedijiehedejiegou,danzheixiejishuyizhimeinengdaguimoyingyong。yuanyinzaiyu,tamendexiantianquexianhenduo,birushiyongshoumingduan、chuanzheshushidubuzu、shejiziyoudubugaodeng。xiangbizhixia,lengzhanxinggongyijichengshuyoulinghuo,keyimanzugezhongfuzasheji,suoyiyizhishixingyedezhuliuxuanze。

duxiu:biruyishuangputongdeyundongxie,gebufenchengbenzhanbiruhe?

justin:yibanlaishuo,mianliaodechengbenzhanbizai30%-40%,mojuhepeishibufen,biruzhongdi、hougendezhichengjiandeng,yezhan30%zuoyou。zheilianggebufendebiliyoushihouhuihuhuan,jutiqujueyushejixuqiuhecailiaoxuanyong。biru,youxieshejizhong,mojuchengbenhuitebiegao,chaoguomianliao,danyeyouyixiexiexingyinweixuanyonglegaoduancailiao,mianliaochengbenfanergaoyumoju。

shengxiadebufenjiushifuliaoheshengchanhuanjiederengongchengben,haiyouyunyingfeiyong,zheixiejiaqilaidayuezhan30%。yunyingfeiyongbaohanlegongchangdejichuguanlikaizhi,birushuidian、fangzudeng,haibaokuoshengchanhuanjiedeguanlichengben,birucaigou、paichandeng。zuihoujiushidaigongchangdelirun,zheigebiliyibanzhiyou5%-10%。danzaishijizhong,xianzaihenduogongchangweilenadan,lirunshenzhibeiyasuodaojiejinyuling。

duxiu:daigongchangdelirunkeyitiqiansuanchulaima?biruzaishengchanqian,nengquedingjutizhuanduoshaoma?

justin:shide。zaibaojiajieduan,pinpaifangtongchanghuiyaoqiudaigongchangtijiaoyifenxiangxidechengbenhesuanbiao,zheilimianbaokuorengongchengben、guanlifeiyongyijilirunlv,yejiushiwomenxingyelishuodelop(labor、overhead、profit)。zheixiechengbenbixufenxiangliedefeichangqingchu,biruniguleduoshaogongren,meigegongrenmeixiaoshidegongshichengbenshiduoshao,gongchangdeyunyingfeiyong,baokuoshuidian、fangzu,shenzhiguanlicengdexinzi,zheixiedouyaohesuanjinqu。zuihou,haiyaobanidelirunlvmingquebiaochulai。

buguo,zheizhishililunshangdelirun。shijishang,youyushichangjingzhengtaijilie,henduodaigongchangweileqiangdan,yijingbalirunyasuodaolejiejinyulingdeshuiping。huanjuhuashuo,pinpaifangdehesuanbiaolikenenghuixiezhe“lirunlv5%-10%”,danzaishijishengchanzhong,henduoshihouzheibufenlirunjihushimingyishangde。xianzaidegongchangjibenshangdouzaikaoboliduoxiaomianqiangweichi,nengaoxialaideyedoushixiwangdingdanliangnengwendinghuozhejinyibuzengzhang。

duxiu:jiasheyishuanglingshoujia500yuandexie,pinpaifangdechengbendagaishiduoshao?

justin:yibanlaishuo,yishuanglingshoujia500yuandexie,pinpaifangdechuchangchengbendagaishizai100yuanzuoyou。yejiushishuo,zheishuangxiecongwomendaigongchangnahuodejiageshi100yuan。erwomenzuoweidaigongchang,kenengzhizhuan10kuaiqiandelirun。

zhei500yuandeshoujiali,zhishaoyou300yuanshibeizhongjianhuanjiechidiaole。zheixiezhongjianhuanjiebaokuoqudaofeiyong,birushangchang、jingxiaoshangyaochoucheng;haiyouguanggaofeiyong,birumingxingdaiyanfei、dianshiguanggaofeideng;zaijiashangpinpaizishenderengongheyunyingchengben,xiangshejishituanduidexinzi、shichangyingxiaofeiyong,zheixiedoushiyibibuxiaodekaixiao。huanjuhuashuo,xiaofeizhemaizheishuangxiesuohuade500yuanli,zhenzhenghuazai“xie”benshencailiaohezhizaoshangde,qishizhizhanhenxiaoyibufen。

duxiu:xiangbiguoneishichang,zhuanyidaohaiwaihuibuhuigengyoujihui?guowaixiaofeizhedegoumailishibushigaoyixie?

justin:haiwaishichangqueshiyouyidingdeyoushi,tebieshihuilvshangdechayi。biru,500yuanrenminbizaioumeishichangdagaizhixiangdangyu70meiyuan。erzaioumeishichang,zuidishixinchabuduoshi20meiyuan,yigerengan3gexiaoshijiunengmaiyishuangxie。conggoumailidejiaodulaikan,queshixiangduikuansong,hua70meiyuanmaishuangxieduitamenlaishuobingbushihendadefudan。

danguoneishichangdewentishixiaofeizhedejiagemingandutaigaole。xianzaiguoneidenianqingxiaofeizheduiyuxiezidexinlijiaweifeichangmingque,300yuanshiyigezhongyaode“xinlixian”。yidanjiagechaoguo300yuan,tamenhuijuedebuzhi,zhuanerqumainaike、adidedazhekuan。zheigewentiduiwomenzuodaigongdeyingxianghenda,yinweiruguopinpaifangxiangzaiguoneishichangjingzheng,tamenjiubixuyadishoujia。ershoujiayadidejieguojiushiduidaigongchangdechuchangjiayaoqiuyehuigengkeke,gongchangdelirunkongjianjinyibubeiyasuo。

duxiu:suoyixianzaideqingkuangshibushiyoudianxiang“siwangluoxuan”?xingyeneijingzhengfeichangjilie,dajiajuandehenlihai,zuihouzhenggexingyedoushoudaoleyingxiang。

justin:keyishuomeigerendouzaipinmingyadijiageqiangshichang。

duxiu:danyiqingzhihou,yundongxieheyundongfushidexuqiubushidafushangzhanglema?zhenggeshichangzaizengzhang,anlishuoyinggaidajiadounengfendaogengduodangaocaidui。weishenmenimenxingyedeganshouhaishizheimecha?

justin:meicuo,yiqingzhihou,quanqiufanweineijujiabangongdexingqiqueshituidongleyundongxiedexuqiuzengzhang。dajiabuyongzaichuanneixie“shufurenxing”deyifu,biruniuzikuhuozhezhengzhuang。zheizhonghuanjingxia,yundongxieyiduchengweishouxuan,shichangzhengtixuqiushangzhangdehenmingxian。youqishiyiqingchuqi,“yundongshehua”(sport chic)fengchaoliuxingqilai,xiaofeizhegengyuanyimaineixiejiyouyundonggongnengyouxiandeshishangdegaoduanyundongxie,shichangkanqilaihenfanrong。

danshi,zheizhongqushibingmeiyouchixutaijiu。suizheshijiantuiyi,xiaofeizhedexuqiuzhujianzhuanxianggengjiasongchi、gengjujiadexiekuan,birutuoxie、bangenxie,shenzhiyixiemujishixiekuan。zheixiexieziyinweishushixinghesuiyixinggenggao,kaishiqudaichuantongyundongxiedeshichangfene。xiaofeizhekaishijuedeyundongxie“taijinle”、“taizhengshile”,bugouqingsongzizai。suoyicongwodetiganlaikan,xianzaichuantongyundongxiedeshichangshijishangshizaizhubuehua。

duxiu:yejiushishuo,suiranzhenggexieleishichangzaibianda,danbingmeiyouzhenzhengbangdaochuantongyundongxiezheigepinleishixianzengzhang?

justin:dui,xianzaishichangdequshishizouxianggengduoyuanhua。yiqian,zai2012nianzhiqian,suoweide“duoyuanhua”qishizhishijuxianzaiyigeleibielimian,birushizhuangxiezheigedaleihuifenchunvzhuangzhengzhuang、nanzhuangxiuxianzheiyangdexifenpinlei,danzhengtishangpixierengranzhanjuzhudaodiwei。neishihoude“duoyuanhua”gengduozhideshitongyigeleimuli,butongpinpaitongguoshejiqufenfengge,erbushileimudebenzhiduoyanghua。

dandaole2012nianzhihou,shichangturanfashenglehenshengyingdezhuanbian,shizhuangxiebeixunsupaoqi,yundongxiechengweizhuliu。xianzai,zheizhongqushiyouzaifashengbianhua,xiaofeizhezhujianxianggengshushi、gengjujiadexieleizhuanbian。worenweiwomenzhengchuzaiyigezhuanxingqi,yigeguodujieduan。weilaishichangdezhongxinhenkenenghuizhubuzhuanxiangsongchihejujiafenggedexiekuan。

duxiu:zheiqueshihewomencongshujuhuocaibaoshangkandaodeqingkuangyouhendabutong。yinweicongzhengtilaikan,shichangshizaizengzhangde。erqie,xiangyixiexiaozhongxieleipinpaidecaibaobiaoxianyefeichangbucuo,birulululemeng(lululemon)yekaishizuoxie,haiyouangpaozheiyangde。jiyuzheixiexinxi,womenhuijuedeshichangzhuangtaihenhao。dannimencongyezhedeganshouquewanquanbuyiyang。

justin:shide,womencongyezhedetiganfeichangcha。xieleixingyexianzaihuoxuhaisuanbushangwanquandexiyangxingye,danxiechangbenshenjueduishiyigexiyangxingye。

zhenggeyundongxieshichangxianzaidoubuhaoguo。wulunshiliuhuaxie、banxie、lanqiuxie、zuqiuxie、paoxie,jihusuoyoupinpaidouzaizhengzha。weiyihainengkandaoyixiexiaorongde,kenengzhiyouneiliangjiaxinruipinpai。dansheizhidaotamennenghongduojiu,nenghuoduojiuni?bijing,chaoliuwangwangdoushiduanzande,henkuaijiuhuibeiyiwang。danworenwei,buguanshicongchuangxinhaishicongredulaikan,ruguonifangqilechuangxin,zhishimanzuyuzhuanxiehuanpidelirun,neizheijiagongsilishuaituijiubuyuanle。

02 "只能在物料上创新"——一个古老行业的瓶颈

duxiu:congnimendejiaodulaishuo,zhixiezheigexingyeneibuyoumeiyou“bishilian”?jinzitadedingduanshishenmeyangdeni?

justin:kendingshishougongpixie,haowuyiwen。

shougongpixiejiushishougongkaipi、shougongcaijian、shougongfengzhi,suoyoudegongxudoushikaoyishuangshoulaiwanchengde。yingguodenorthampton(beianpudun)xiejiangjiushizheileishougongpixiegongyidedaibiao。shougongpixiewulunconglishidiweihaishijishuhanliangshanglaishuo,jueduishixingyejinzitadedingduan。

zaiwangxia,jiushiyixienvzhuanggaogenxiepinpai,birujimmy choo,zheileipinpaikeyisuanshizhanzaijinzitadingduandelingyigefenzhi,heshougongpixiejihuzaitongyishuipingxianshang。buguo,shougongpixiekenenghaishihui“wangxiakan”tayidian。erjimmy choozenengbishineixiexiangsteve madden、sam edelmanhuozheneutralizerzheileiwanquanliushuixianshengchandepinpai。

ruguozhicongjishuhanliangdejiaodulaikan,zaiwangxiajiushiyundongxiele。qishiyundongxiedejishushuipingbingbudi,youqishixiangnaikezheileipinpai,gongyishangshenzhibubigaogenxiecha。buguo,yundongxiezaiwangxiajiushibanxie,birukuangweizheilei,jishuhanliangjiuxiangduihendile。jibenshangzhiyaobaxiezizuochulaijiuxingle。suoyishuo,wozheisuanshigaokaidizoule。

duxiu:zainidecongyeshengyazhong,youmeiyounayishuangxiehuozhemougexiangmurangnijuedetebiejiaoao?shenzhishinenggouchufayixiechuangxinjihuide?

justin:dangnianwomenzuoguoyigeyidalipinpaijiaoacbcdexiezi,tashiyigefeichangtebiedexiangmu。

tadangshizhendeshidianfuxingdesheji,yizhidaoxianzaiwodoujuedetafeichangjuyougemingxing。tazuidadetedianjiushibaxiemianhexiedifenkaile。gangcaiwomenliaodao,chuantongxiezishitongguojiaoshuihezhongdijiangxiemianhexiedijieheqilaide。erzheigepinpaizhijiequxiaolezhongdi,bazhanhemeijiecongjiaoshuibianchenglelalian。

yejiushishuo,yishuangxiedexiedishigudingde,danxiemianshikeyisuiyigenghuande。zhiyaoyouyishuangxiedi,nikeyisuishibaxiemianchaixialai,zaizhuangshangxindexiemian,zheiyangxiezijiubianchenglelingyishuang。

duxiu:tingqilaiyoudianxianglegaoneizhongpinchadeshejifangshi。

justin:dui,leiside。buguozaimeiguoqishizaoyouleisidechangshi,danzuodehenchou。dangshitamenyongdeshineizhongdakuaidesuliaolalian,chihenda,feichangxianyan。tamenhaijizheizhongxieziqilegewaihaojiao“shayu”,yinweixiezidelalianjiuxiangzhangkaizuideshayuyiyang,yachitebiemingxian,henxingxiang,danshizhendebuhaokan。

erwomenzuodebanbenyonglefeichangxidenilonglalian,zhengtigengjiayinxing,shijuexiaoguoyaohaohenduo。erqiewomenhaizailalianshangjialeyicengfangposhuidechenbuhetuceng,suiranbunengwanquanfangshui,danposhangyibeishui,xiezilimianshibuhuishide。

erqiezheikuanxiebujinzaiwaiguanshanggengmeiguan,gongnengxingyegengyoutupo。meiguanbenshenjiushiyizhonggemingxingdechuangxin,yinweilalianyuexiao,duitadexingnengyaoqiujiuyuegao。yaoshixianzheigejishu,xuyaozaishejihegongyishangdadaofeichanggaodebiaozhun。suoyi,dangchuwojiedaozheigexiangmushi,zhendejuedefeichangyoutiaozhanxing。

duxiu:nimenhualeduojiushijianquwanchengzheishuangxiedeshejiheshengchan?

justin:wohelingwaiyigetongshiyiqihualeyiniandeshijiancaiwanchengta。keyishuo,duiwomenlaishuo,zheishuangxiejiuxiangzijideqinshenghaiziyiyang,womendouhenjiaoao。danyihandeshi,zheikuanxiehoulaimaidebuhao。

duxiu:weishenme?shiyinweixiaofeizheduizheigepinpaihuozhechanpingainianbulejie,haishitamenduizheigeshejibenshenburenke?

justin:qishixiaofeizheduizheigegainianshihenganxingqude。gangkaishideshihou,dajiaduizheizhongkeyigenghuanxiemiandeshejidoufeichanghaoqi。erqieyunyingfangdingdejiagezaidangshi(2017nian)yesuanheli,bingbushigaobukepande“tianjia”。zaiwomenshanghaidiankaizhangdeshihou,queshixiyinlehenduorenpaiduishichuan,changmianyiduhenrenao。danshi,zheicishichuanzhijiehuidiaolezheishuangxiedeshichangqianjing,yinweitadeshejiyouyigezhimingdequexian——xiexuanfeichangzhai,bushiheyazhourendejiaoxing。

duxiu:neiweishenmezaishejideshihoumeiyoujiejuezheigewentini?

justin:qishiwomenzaojiufaxianzheigewentile,yexiangshejishitichuguoyijian。womenshuo,zheishuangxiedexuanxingtaizhaile,yazhourenhuichuanbujinqu,bixugaikuanyidian。danshejishizhijiejujuele,tashuoruguobaxiexuangaikuanle,zheishuangxiejiubuhaokanle。

duxiu:shejishishinaguoren?

justin:yidaliren。

duxiu:suoyiyidalirenheyazhourendejiaoxingbenlaijiushiwanquanbuyiyangde?

justin:dui,wanquanbutong。yazhourendejiaoxingtedianshiqianzhangkuan、jiaobeigao,erouzhouren、tebieshiyidalirendejiaoxingpianshouzhang,jiaobeiyebijiaodi。shejishidangshiwanquanmeiyoukaolvguoyazhouxiaofeizhedexuqiu。womenzuoweikaifatuanduiqishiyijingtichulexiugaijianyi,danshejishijianchibugai。zheijiushiyigedianxingdeanli——shejishide“zifu”zhanshenglezhuanyeyijian。guigenjiedi,chanpinshibaideyuanyinbingbushiyunyingfanghuokaifatuanduidewenti,ershishejibenshencongyikaishijiucunzaiquexian,zhudinghuishibai。

ruguotadeshichuanjiaoganhao,nenggoushipeidaduoshurendejiaoxing,wojuedezheishuangxiewanquanyoujihuichengweibaokuan。dangshiyiqianduokuaiqiandejiagekeyimaisanshuangxie,xiangdangyuliangtaodadihesanzuxiemian。duiyuxiaofeizhelaishuo,guangshizheigexinxianganjiuzugouxiyinrenle。danxianshishi,xiaofeizhemaihuiquzhihoufaxiangenbenchuanbujinqu,neizheigechanpinhaiyoushenmeyiyini?tade“diyiqiang”meiyoudaxiang,houmianziranyejiumeiyourenhejihuile。

duxiu:ruguoxianzaiyoujihuirangnizhongxinqidongzheigexiangmu,nijuedetahaiyoukenengchenggongma?

justin:yijingmeiyoujihuile。zhongguoxiaofeizheyouqijianwang,yinweitamendexuanzetaiduole。meitianzaitaobao、tianmaoshangdouyousuoweide“guochaopinpai”yongru,jiageyebugao。qishi,dangshiwomenzheikuanxiededingjiabingbugui。daole2020nian,tamenhaichangshiguozhengzhaleyixia,huanleyijiaxindeyunyingfanglaijieshou,danzuihouhaishishibaile。

neicichangshiwanquanmeijiqirenheshuihua。wohoulaikandaotamenyijingzhongxinshejilechanpin,shenzhihuanyonglexindedadi。danshicuodechengbenshizaitaigaole,guangshimoju、gongchangfeiyong、dayangfeiyong、shengchanfeiyongherengongfeiyong,jiaqilaijiujibaiwanrenminbi。

zheigeyusuanzaidagongsineibuyigeshiyebulishihendadekaixiao。nixiang,huazheimeduoqianheshijianquzuoyikuanchanpin,ruguohaimeituichujiushibaile,neisheihaiganzaichangshini?ruguowoshifuzezheigexiangmudelaoda,gaobuhaozhenggetuanduidoudejiesan,dajiadoumeifanchi。suoyihenduolingdaozuihouzhinengxuanze“deguoqieguo”,buganqingyimaoxian。

duxiu:wojuedenijiangdezheigelizifeichangshengdong,nengshuomingyikuanxiecongchuangxindaoshichanghuayouduonan。

justin:dui,bieshuobaokuanle,nengzifuyingkuijiuyijingsuanchenggong。dangshishanghaineibiandeyunyingfangyeshizheimexiangde,tamendemubiaobingbushikaotazhuandaqian,zhiyaobukuijiuxing。danwentishi,tayituichujiukaishikui。wotingshuodiyipidahuojuranmaileliangniandoumeimaiwan。

diyipidahuowojideshi6wanshuangzuoyou,dagaibaokuoliangwantaodadihesanwanduojianxiemian。jieguoxiemianhaoxiangmaichuqubudaoshifenzhiyi,wanquanmaibudong。yinweiyidanxiezidexuanxingzuocuole,zaizenmetuixiaodoumeiyouyong,xiaofeizhegenbenchuanbujinqu。yifudalehainenggaixiao,danxiexiaolewanquanmeibanfagai。ruguoxiemazaidayihao,kuandugoule,zhangduyoutaizhangle。

xiezishilitidejiegou,diaozhengqilaitebienan。zheiyeshiweishenmezhixiexingyeyizhizhanzaishishangxingyebishiliandedingduan。zuoxiedegongyifuzadeduo,xiechangkanbuqineixiezuoyifuhewazide。

duxiu:jiulianneixiegaodingshizhuangwu,yebuyidingyouzhixiedejishuhanliang?

justin:caifenghexiejiangbi,xiejiangdangranshikeyiaoshicaifengde。yinweixiezidebujianbiyifufuzadeduo,erqietaxuyaoyanjiuzubujiegou,shejidewentiyebiyifujingxideduo。yifukenengjiushijigeguanjiebuweidewenti,danxiezibixukaolvxuanxingruhewanquanfuhezubudeshenglijiegou,biruxueyexunhuan,zheitebienan。gengbuyaoshuoxianzaidezhixiegongyiyijingfazhanchengyigeduoxuekexiezuodexiandaihualiuchengle。

zuoxiebujinxuyaoshougongfengzhihejiancaidejingxi,haixuyaodongcailiaoxue、mojugongyi,shenzhiwulihehuaxuezhishi。jiunaneishuanglalianxielaishuo,tazuiguanjiandebufenbushixiedi,yebushixiemian,ershitadelalian。zheigelalianduiwomenlaishuowanquanshixindelingyu,jianzhixiangzaixueyimenwaiyu。yiqianwoconglaimeiyouxiangguozuoxiexuyaoyanjiulalian。

tagenyifushangdelalianyaoqiuwanquanbuyiyang。yifudelalianzhixuyaowanchengbihedegongneng,danzheishuangxiedelalianhaiyaochengshouxingzoushidechongjili。zaiputongxiezili,zheizhongchongjilihuifensandaoduogebujianshang,danzaizheishuangxieshangwanquanyilailalian。womenbixujisuanlaliandekangchongjinenglihewulicanshu,erzheixieceshishimeiyouxingyebiaozhunde。womenzhinengzijimosuo。

weilegaodingzheigelalian,wojihumeitianpaoqulalianchang,genlaobangoutong,yaoqiutamendiaozhengshengchangongyi。birutucengzenmechuli、cailiaoruhejiagu、laliandekanglalibixudadaoduoshao。zhenggeguochengtebieshaonao。zhiqianconglaimeixiangguozuoxiezixuyaoquyanjiuzheime“xizhimojie”dedongxi。

duxiu:wojuedezheishiyigehenhaodechuangxingushi。jishizuihoushibaile,nirengrannengganjuedaozijizaizuoyixiequanxindedongxi,shibierenmeiyouchangshiguode。

justin:dui,bijinghuadebushiwodeqian。zhanzheshuohuabuyaotengma。

duxiu:danmeigedagongsiruguoxiangzuochanpinchuangxin,doubixuchengdanzheizhongshibaidefengxian。yinweiyidanchenggong,shouyishijudade。

justin:lilunshangshizheiyangmeicuo。danzaidangxiazheigejingjixingshixia,shichangdebuquedingxingtaidale,sheihaiganzheimeshuoni?

yingxiongbuchangyou。dangnianshanghaineiweilaobanshilezheigexiangmu,zuihoushibaile,tazijiyehenshoudaji。wotingshuotahoulaikailehenduociwenzehui,yinweineipikucunyazaineili,suirancongcaiwushangkanzheidiansunshiduitalaishuobusuanshenme,danxinlishangdedajishijudade。

duxiu:zhiqiannaikedechuangshirenfeier·naitezai《xiegou》yishuzhongyetidaoguo,tazuichubingbushizijiyanfayundongxie,ershichuanglilelandaitiyugongsi,dailiribendeguizhonghuxie。raner,youyushuangfangjingyinglinianbuhe,qieguizhongyaoqiushougoulandaigongsi51%deguquan,fouzejiangshouhuidailiquan,zheiposhifeier·naitezhinengzijizhongxindazaoyigepinpai,yejiushihoulaichengweinaikedepinpai,bingkaishiyanfazijideyundongxie,fouzetajiuhuimianlindaobidefengxian。xianzaikanlai,henduopinpaibingmeiyouxianrurucidekunjing,xuduopinpaiyirannenggouyikaoguoqudejileijixushengcun。

justin:shide,zheigegushifeichangjingdian,dajiadouzhidao。jibianzaiyeneiwai,tayeshiliuchuanshenjiudechuanqi。henduoshihou,chuangxinshibeibichulaide。

duxiu:yaomeshiyinweiduixiezidejizhireai,zhendexiangzuochuyishuangdajiaxiaidexiezi。

justin:laoyibeidenaikerenzhendeshizheiyang,tamendexuantoushifuzhendeshiliangerbuwenchuangwaishi,yixinzhizuoxuantou。tamenzhuanzhuyuyanjiuzenyangzuoxuantoucainengrangxiezigengjiashushi。biruwoyudaoguoyiweinaikedeyuanlaojirenwu,gonghaodagaishiqianshiweihuoqianjishiweideneizhong,shuyufeichangzishendecunzai。

tacengjingshuoguo:“wozheiyibeizidouzaixuantoufangli,jiuzhigaixuantou。”naikedexuantoudayueyouyiqianduo、jibaigedoushitaqinzishejide。wogangruxingshi,wodoujuedezijinenggenzheiyangdedalaotongzhuochifan,jianzhishimodaderongxing,nengchuiyibeizi。laoyibeidenaikerenjiushizheiyang。

buguohoulaiwofaxianqingkuangfashenglebianhua,wojiechudaoqitapinpai,shenzhishinaikeneibudetuandui,dajiakaishitaolundedoubuzaishiruhetishengxiezideshushidu,ershimankouxingyeheihua,birukpi、roi、xiekuanxiaoshoudefeiyong breakdown。henshaoyourenzaitanlunruheshejichuyishuangnengranggukechuanshanggengshushidexiezi。zheixietaolunjihuzhizaigongchangneibutingdao,shenzhizaigongsineibuyebuzaitile。

duxiu:chanpinchuangxinyuxiaoshou、yijizuizhongkehutiyanzhijian,sihuwanquantuojiele。

justin:dui,zheixiegongsilidekaifatuandui,wogengqingxiangyurenweitamenxiangshizhijianyuanhuozhezhongzhuanshejishi。meiguoneibianjiangshejifanganjiaoguolai,gongchangderenwujinjinshijianchapeiseshifouzhengque、tuanshifouzhunque、chexianshifouhegui、shifouyouxiaci。gongzuoliuchengdazhijiushizheiyang,querenyucaotudeyizhixing,quebaomeiyouwenti,ranhoujiujinruliangchanjieduan。henduoshihouzheizhongzuofahuidaozhilujingyilai。

wojuede,ruguoshejishizaizheizhonghuanjingzhongjinxingshenduchuangxin,duiyusuoyoushejishilaishuodoushiyizhongjudadetiaozhan。nenggouzaizheizhongqingkuangxiazuochuyinlingxingyedechuangxin,xiangdangniandeairpad huozhe air jordan neiyangdegexin,zhendehenshao。daduoshushejishizhinengjinxingyixiexiaoguimodechangshi,zuoxielianmingkuanhuoxiaobujiandegaidong,zheizhongsuoweidechuangxin,tongchangzhishimougebujiandexiaodiaozheng。

henduoshihou,chuangxindebeihoubingbushizhenzhengdetupo,ershitongguoxuanchuanxincailiaodefangshi,jizheixiexiaobianhuafuyukuazhangde“chuangxin”biaoqian,yongjijuhualaimiaoshuyigejiandandesigezicailiao,jiecixiyinyanqiu。shijishang,yinzangzaiqizhongdezhishixingyeneibudepingjing,wulunshidaigongchanghaishipinpai,douyijingxianrulekunjing。

03 从品牌到电商的阵痛:大厂代工、炒鞋退潮与零售渠道之变

duxiu:xiangnaikeheadidasizheiyangdequanqiupinpai,tamenshizenmetiaoxuanhefenpeidaigongchangheshengchanxiandeni?

justin:tongchanglaishuo,tamenhuibazuijingying、zuigaoduandejitiaoshengchanxianjizhongzaiyiliangjiagongchangzuo。biru,baochengyiqianzaizhongshansanxiangjiuyouliangtiaozhuanmenweidapinpaifuwudeshengchanxian,naikeheadidengpinpaihuizhidingjigexieguanyuanlaiguanlizheixieshengchanxian。baochengzaizhongguotaiwandedaigongchangzaixingyelisuanshizuidazhiyi。

baochengzaizhongshansanxiangdegongchangyijingyouhenzhanglishile,wojidezhishaoshi90niandaideshier,womenchuzhonghegaozhongshiqumaiqiuxie,henduorendouhuiquneifujinmai,yinweineilideweihuozuiduo,zhuyaoshidanpin、zhiliangbuhegedexiezihuozhebuliangpin,jiushisuoweide“laoshuhuo”。neishihoudajiajingchangqudedifang,jiushizaigongchangduimiandeneitiaojieshang。

duxiu:zheixiexiezigongchangkeyiyouquanlimaima?ruguozheixiexieshangyoupinpaidelogo,yiyigejididejiageliuchu,pinpaifangbuhuiguanma?

justin:xieyeliyougebuchengwendeguiju,jiushishuo,ruguoyipixieziliyouyibufenbeibiaoshang“qcbuhege”debiaoqian,zheixiexiepinpaifangshibuhuifuqiande。xiechangmorenzheixiexiehaishishuyutamendezichan,busuanpinpaifangdechanpin。

nengbunengmaijiukanpinpaifangshifouzhuijiule。yibanlaishuo,pinpaifangshimorenzheizhongqingkuangde,yinweitamenbuxiangyin200shuangxiezigenxiechanggaohuaiguanxi。bijingniburangxiechangmai,putiandexiechangyiyanghuimai,zheiyangyoushenmechabieni?dangshiwomenjingchangqumaizheixie“laoshuhuo”,shenzhinengmaidaoganggangzaixianggangshangshidekuanshi。womennengmaidaodexiezijihuhexianggangtongbufashou。suoyi,womenkandaodeneixiechaoliukuanshi,henduodoushizaizhongshanshengchande。

houlaiwojinruzheigexingye,wotingshuo,xiangwogangcaishuodeneiyang,youliangjiagongchangshitamendezhulihejingruibudui,zhuanmenfuzekaifaheshengchanneixiedingjikuanshi,biruajdelianmingkuan、nbashizhanqiuxiedeng。neixiexiezideshengchan,jishuyaoqiuhengao,doushizaizheixiegongchanglizuode。wobuquedingzheishibushishishi,danwocongyeneitingshuoguoleisideqingkuang。henduodagongchanghejituandouyouzheiyangdeanpai。xiangfengtai、baochengzheixiegongchang,tamenzaifujianhezhongshandegongchanglidouyoujitiaozhuanmenzuogaoduanxiekuandeshengchanxian,zheixiexianyibanfuzexiaopiliang、gaoyaoqiudechanpin。

duxiu:chuciyiwaijiushijiushiputongdazhongkuan。

justin:dui,meicuo,neijiushiputongdedahuoxie,duiyuzheizhongxiekuanlaishuo,gongchangdezhilianghegongyijiumeiyouneimeyange,chanpinzhiliangcanchabuqi。zheixiexiezidouyoukenengchuxianzheiyangneiyangdewenti。yinweitamenbushitongguojiqizidongshengchanchulaide,ershirengongzhizuode,nanmianhuichuxianyixiequexian。

duxiu:lingyigezhidezhuyidedianshi,wofaxiandajiazuijinchaoxiedexianxiangmingxianjianshao,youqishiyiqingzhihou。wojuedeyiqingqian,dajiahaishihuifengkuangzhuipengyixietedingkuanshidexiezi,birulianmingkuan、xianliangpeisezhileide。danxianzaiwohenshaotingdaoyourenjiajiagoumaixiezi。

justin:guanyuchaoxiedeshi,wojidezai16、17nian,“du”appjiukaishihuoqilaileba?xianzaijiao“dewu”。

neigeshihouwozaivansdekaifabangongshigongzuo。womengongsineishifashengleyicixiemishijian,shejisupremehevansdelianmingxiekuan,neigeyangxieshizaiwodedabanshizhizuode。neitianwozhenghaochucha,huilaizhihou,wolaobancongxianggangdalaidianhua,fengkuangdimawo。wowentaweishenmemawo,tashuonizijiquinstagramkankanfashengleshenme。wogaosutawoxianzaizaicheshang,yushitafalejietujiwo。

jieguoyouyigebuzhimingderenpaojinlewomendeyangpinshi,erneitianqiahaoyangpinshidemenmeiyousuo。zheigerenbazhengzaikaifadesupremelianmingxiepaizhaobingfabudaoinstagram。zheigetiezizailiangxiaoshineidianzanchaoguo5wan,dajiadouzaifengkuangxunwenzheishihenagepinpaidelianmingkuan。

duxiu:zuizhongzheigeshijianyoujieguoma?shisheizuode,huozheduinimendeshengchanyouyingxiangma?

justin:meiyouchachushishei。fanzhengwoyincijigongsipeileyigeyuedegongzi。

duxiu:danzheishuangxiekenenghuibuhuifaneryincimaidegenghao?

justin:woyebuqueding,yinweitabenlaijiuxianliangfaxing,quanqiuzhiyou200shuang。erqiezheikuanxiebingmeiyoujinrudaguimoshengchan,zhishizaiyangpinxianxiaopiliangzhizuo。

duxiu:zheishuangxiededingjiashiduoshao?

justin:guanfangshoujiajibaimeijin,dannibukenengyizheigejiagemaidao,shichangjiagekenenghuijiageling。

duxiu:wojideneiduanshijianqueshiyouhenduoleisidexinwen,birunaikehediordelianming。

justin:dui,neishuangxiezaisneakerheadhuokickersshangchaodao13,000duomeijinyishuang。

duxiu:neizheixiexieziyouchengjiaoma?

justin:yinggaishiyoujiawushi,kenengyeshirenweitaijiadeqingkuang。yinweihenmingxian,yiqingzhihouhuozheyiqingqijian,dajiayijingbutaiguanzhuzheixiechaoliule。shouxianhenduorenshiyele,zaijialinalaineimeduoqian;qici,xiechangyeyinweigezhongxianzhiwufazhengchangshengchanhejiaohuo,zheishiyigehenxianshidewenti。

duxiu:dui,yiqingqijiancengjingyouxinwenshuoputiandexiechangwufakaigong,henduodifangdexiezidoumaibudao。

justin:dui,zheishizhende,bushiyangcongxinwen。xiangchengquneibianyidanhesuanjiancejieguochulai,quanxianfengsuo,xiechangfabulehuo。zheizhongqingkuangzhenshifashengguo。worenwei,congxinlicengmianlaikan,yiqingguohou,henduorenkaishifansi,weishenmeyaoweizheixiexuhuandedongxifuchuneimeduo。henduorendoujinglileshenghuozhongdebiangu,gaibianletamenderenshengguan。worenweizheizhongxinlishangdezhuanbian,yingxianglehenduorenduichaoxiedekanfa。

duxiu:niyouchaoguoxiema?

justin:yinweiwozijicongshizheigexingye,suoyimeiyouchaoguoxie。wolejietadebenzhi。suiranxiezishejikenenggenghaokan,danyejincieryi。womaixiebujinjinkangongneng,haihuizhuzhongwaiguan,yaoqiuxiezifuhewodeshenmei,yanseyehenzhongyao。youxielianmingkuan,wojuedegenbenbuhaokan,weishenmeyaohuaneimeduoqianmaiyishuangzheimechoudexie?nixihuan,ok,neisuini,danwobuhuimai。erqiezaizheigexingye,kanguotaiduohuashaodexinkuan,suoyiwomentianshengjiuduizheixieshiwuyouyidingdemianyili。

duxiu:nijuededianshangduichuantongpinpaizaochenglechongjima?

justin:qitapinpaiwobuqingchu,danvansjueduishishoudaolechongji。zaizhongguodeyiqingqijian,vanszijizhijiejinrudianshanglingyu,jihubajingxiaoshanggaodekuaisidiaole。suoyixianzaihenduojingxiaoshangbuzaicaigoutadechanpinle,vanszijizaidouyinhetianmaokaisheleqijiandian,jiageshenzhibijingxiaoshanghaibianyi。yucitongshi,vanshaiyaoqiujingxiaoshanganyuanjiajinhuo,dantazijiqueyigengdidejiagexiaoshou,neixiejingxiaoshanghainengyuanyichengdanzheigefengxianma?

birunaikexianzaizhongxinpinhuilelaoceo,yeshiyinweizhiqianguoyuyilaidianshang。dianshangmoshikuaisugengxinhuandai,buxuyaoguoduoguanzhushejichuangxin,zhixubutingdigenghuanyansejike。

04 三个品牌的不同选择:玛莎的保守、Vans的高淘汰率、斯凯奇的差异化

duxiu:neinizijizuoxiedexinlulichengshizenmeyangde?congshizhuangxiezuodaoyundongxie。

justin:wojuedeshishenmeifashenglebianhua。dangranmoushengshiqizhongyigeyuanyin。diergeyuanyinshiyinweiwozaizheixingdaidejiule,qianjitiancaigenpengyoutaolunguo,weishenmewomenyizhizaizheixing,jinguangongzuoliangdaqiexinshuibugao。womenzongjieleyixia,jinguangongzuoguodu,qianjidebugou,danwomenhaishizaijianchi。

wohaijidewozaimashagongzuoshi,zoudaonanjingxilumashabaihuosilou,shinanzhuangbu。wozoushangquduipengyoushuo,zheiyicengsuoyoudenanxiepinleidoushiwokaifade,meiyishuangnanxie,wulunshipixie、yundongxiehaishijiajutuoxie,doushiwofuzede。neiyikedechengjiuganwuyulunbi。

duxiu:shinilaijuedingmeiyijinaxiechanpinshangjia,ranhouzuzhishengchanma?

justin:jibenshangshizheiyangde。shouxianshishejishituanduihuishejibutongdexiekuan,ranhoutamenbatujiaojiwo,woderenwujiushijiangzheixieshejizhuanhuaweishiwu。dannengbunengshixianshejishidegouxiang,nengbunengluodi,zheijiushiwodezhizele。suiranzaimashameiyouneimeduotianmaxingkongdesheji,dangongzuohaishitingjuyoutiaozhanxingde。

dui,mashadeteseshituchu“jingdiankuan”,bingqieqiangdiaowending。mashadeceocenggongkaishuoguo:“ruguoninianqing,huozhebuman45sui,zuihaobuyaojinruwomendedian,womenbuhuanyingni。”tazaiyuangongdahuishanggongkaishuodezheiyijuhua,zhenjinglequanchang。

duxiu:neitadeliyoushishenmeni?

justin:tadesilujiushijizhongzai“tuixiurenqun”shang,zhuanzhuyuzhonglaonianshichang。danhoulaizhengming,zheitiaoluqueshizoucuole,zuizhongzhengmingshisiluyitiao。daozuihou,mashazhinengkaomaishipinweichishouru,qitayewujihuquandoushibaile。xieleihefuzhuangshiqizhongdezhongzaiqu。bukanweilai,zhiguanzhuguoqu,zheizhongsiweishixingbutongde。

wozaimashagongzuolesannian,houlaijuedezheizhendeshifeichangwuqu,yingwenyoujuhuajiao“i didn’t sign up for this”(wobushilaiganzheigede)。suiranwozaizheiduanshijiandedaolehendadeduanlian,duziguanlizheimedadebumen,shejizheimeduodesku,bingqieshiwujuxi,conggongchangdaogongyingshangdouyaozijifuze,congtuzhidaoxiezishangshi,wodoudecanyu。wodedaolehendadeduanlian,danyehenjianao,gongzuoyalifeichangda。gengzhongyaodeshi,kandaoneixiemeiyoushenmebianhua、meiyouxinyidexiezi,zhenderangrenjuedekuaitule。

duxiu:suoyinihoulaizaivansshishenmegongzuotiyan?

justin:wotiaocaodaolevanshoucaifaxiantamenmeigeyue、meiyijidouyouxinkuan。tamenbutingdichangshixinsheji、xinxingzhuang、xincailiao,bingbuduanjinxingchuangxinpengzhuang。zheirangwogandaoermuyixin。suiranshuodaojishu,liuhuaxiekuanyemeiyoutaiduojishukeyan。

duxiu:neitamendehexinjingzhenglizainalini?skudefanxinsudushizenmeyangde?

justin:vansdegengxinsudufeichangkuai,wozuoxiaoyangdeshihou,jibenshangshiguoquyiniankaifadezonghe。renjiashiyongshulianglaitaotaini,yinweikaifazheimeduokuanbudaibiaonengmaichuquneimeduo。jugelizi,woyigejiduyaoganwandexiaoyangliang,zuiduodeshihoudayueyou1600duoshuang,meiyishuangdoushibuyiyangde,1600duogesku。suiranwozaimashagongzuolesannian,yebuquedingzijishifoukaifalezheimeduokuan,danzaivans,womeigeyuedouzaiganzheizhonggaoqiangdudegongzuo。

tamenhuibayangpinnadaojingxiaoshangdahui,ranggedidejingxiaoshanghemaishouxuanding。zuihou,cong1600duogeskuzhong,zhiyoudayue200kuanjinruliangchan,zheiyiweizhedayue12.5%dao13%decunhuolv。suoyi,vansdechuangxinsuduhexiaolvshifeichanggaode,yenenglijietaweihenengxunsujueqi。erqieneishidajiadoubijiaoyouqian。

duxiu:zaivansgongzuotingqilaiqiangduyefeichangda,nidelequshishenme?

justin:vansdegongzuoqiangduqueshihenda,dankongxianshiyeyouyixiexianxiashijian,genmashadegongzuoqiangdushibunengbide。masharuguoshi100fendehua,vanszuiduozhinengdao60。

gengxinskushikaifajijiedeshi,richanggongzuozhong,wozhuyaofuzedeshikanyanghejiandushengchan,shengchanfangmianwozhixuyaokanyixia,querenshifoufuheyaoqiujike。

zaidaigongchangfangmian,gongzuomeiyouneimeyangeyaoqiu。zaimasha,womenmeiyouneizhongduorendetuandui,ershiyikao“one man army”demoshi。womenbangongshiyou11geren,danwomenzuole1300wanshuangxiezi,erqiewobingbushizuidadefuzeren。wofuzedenanxieyinianchuhuoliangdayueshi100duowanshuang,ernvxiezeyou400duowanshuang,geyouyigerenfuze。

zaivansdehua,wozhifuzekaifa,suoyigongzuoqiangduxiangduijiaodi。danmeiyigerendouzhenxinreaizheigexingye,tamenduixinshejiyouqiangliedereqing,xihuanzaimeishimeikedegongzuozhongjinxingshejipengzhuanghenaolijidang,neishihougongzuoxiangduigengchuncui,meiyouzaluanwuzhangdeshiwu。

duxiu:neigeshihoushibushigongsiyejiyehenhao?

justin:shide,duiwomenlaishuo,neishizhengchuyushangshengqi。danxianzaivansdeqingkuangxiahuadehenlihai,yijinglianxuliangniankuisunle。

duxiu:xingyedebianhuaqueshihuiyingxiangnideganshou。nizailimianzuodeshubushufu,youshihoubuwanquanqujueyugerennengli,henduoshihoushiyinweiniganghaochuzaiyigefengkou,nizuodemeijianshidoushunli,jiuhuiyouhenqiangdechengjiugan。

justin:keyizheimeshuo,dangshiyouhenduolianming,dajiadouyouxiepiaopiaorandeganjue。neishiwomenjuedezijihaoxiangzhanzaishijiezhidian,zuodeshiqingyehenyouxuronggan。dajiadouhuizhaowomen,wenyoumeiyoulianmingkuandeyangpin,shenzhishuo“buyaodejiwoliuyishuang”。houlaiwolikaishi,qingkuangyijingfashenglebianhua。woqulelingyigepinpai,zhuyaoshiyinweigongsineibudeyixieyuanyin,tuanduihuanlexinguanliceng,gongzuofenweiburuyiqianneiyangyukuai,suoyiwoxuanzelikai,quxunqiugengyoutiaozhanxingdegongzuo。qishi,xindeofferhezhiqianchabuduo,xinziyechabuduo。

duxiu:jiaruxianzaixuyaonijihaopengyouhuojiarentuijianxiezi,nihuijianyishenmeyangdepinpai?zaibubizhuiqiujizhigexinghuoyundongxingnengdeqiantixia,nijuedenagepinpaizaizheifangmianzuodebijiaopingheng?

justin:ruguobukaolvshenmeiyinsudehua,wohuituijiansikaiqi。shuodaozheili,woxiangqiyigehenzhongyaodepinpaijiushisikaiqi。tayeshidongyaonaikeshichangdiweidezhongyaoliliangzhiyi,jiangchengbenhegongnengjiehedefeichangwanmei,zhishizaishenmeifangmianshaoxianbuzu。

duxiu:queshiyoudianxiangzulijian。buguotadetongxiehejianbuxiexilie,congshichangfanyinglaikan,haishihenshouhuanyingde。

justin:zheishiyinweitaqueshizuodaolejiageshihui、xingjiabigao、gongnengchuzhong。jiyuzheixietedian,wofeichangtuijiansikaiqi。xiangtongleixingdexiezi,naikedeshoujiayaobitagaochusanfenzhiyi。suoyishuodaodongyaonaikeshichangdiweidepinpai,sikaiqijueduigongbukemei。

duxiu:zheizhongshichangbiaoxianshiquanqiuxingdema?

justin:shide,zheishiquanqiuxingdexianxiang。sikaiqiqueshizaiquanqiushichangshanggongchenglvedi。angpao、hokazaijingzheng1,000yuanyishangdegaoduanshichang,ersikaiqizezhuanzhuyu500-800yuandejiaweiduan。

duxiu:dui,tamendecelvejiushibadianmiankaizaiadidasihenaikedepangbian。

justin:meicuo,xiangdangyuzaigaosuxiaofeizhe:"juedenaiketaiguide,keyilaiwomenzheilikankan。ruguojuedewomendeshejibugouhao,erqieyusuanchongzudehua,keyiqugebi。"zheiyangbutongpinpaifanernenggouhubu,bangzhubicishaixuanmubiaokehu。biruwozhangmuniang,womenjiujitamaisikaiqi,yinweilaonianrenzaibuxingshihuiyouyixiegugewentihezubujiankangwenti。sikaiqizaizheifangmianzuodefeichangchuse,erqiexiezihenqingbian。

duxiu:nirenweisikaiqizuidadeyoushishishenme?shiqingbianxingma?

justin:shuoqilai,sikaiqizaoqidequanqiukaifazhongxinjiushezaidongguan,jiuzaiyitiaoxiaolushang。

duxiu:dantashiyigemeiguopinpaiba?

justin:shide,buguodangshijihusuoyoumeiguopinpaidouzaidongguansheyoukaifazhongxin。keyishuo,ruguomeiyouzaidongguanshelikaifazhongxin,doubunengsuanshizhenzhengdequanqiupinpai。sikaiqizailvzhougongyeyuanquzhanjulexiangdangdademianji,jiuxiangdangnianvanszaiguanghongyuanquyiyang。lvzhoudezhuligongchangjiangzhenggeyuanqudouhuajilesikaiqi,limiandoushitamendeyuangong。

wojiechuguotamendekaifatuandui,tamenneibuyechengrenzijiadexieziyangshibijiaochuantong,danchuanzheshushi。shuodaopeise,congworuxingshijiujuedeyoudianciyan,yizhidaoxianzaidoushizheiyang。buguoqueshihenshufu,wozijiyechuanguo。weiyidequedianshibugounaichuan,youqishixiedirongyimosun。

duxiu:shiyinweiyonglefapaocaizhidexiedi?

justin:dui,zheishiweilezhuiqiuqingbianxing。niyaozuoqingbiandexiezi,jiuzhinengxuanzeevacaizhi。pucaizhitaizhongle,suoyizhinengyongeva,zuiduozaiwaimianjiayicengnaimodepvchuoyingzhipuwaiqiao,yejiushisuoweidewaiguge。danzhuticaizhihaishieva,zheizhongcaizhiqueshibunaimo,henkuaijiuhuimosun。buguozhengshiyinweichuanzheshushi,xiaofeizhewangwanghuichanshengyilaigan。dengdaoxiezimosunzhihou,ziranerranhuizaimaiyishuang,zheijiuxingchengleyigexiaofeibihuan。tamenjiushiyongshushidulaixiyinxiaofeizhe。

womenzaiersanshisuishikenengbulijiezhonglaonianrendexuanze,shenzhihuiyouxiezhiyi,danxianzaiwomenyedaolezheigenianling,zhongyulijieletamendexiangfa。sikaiqixianzaizhengshimiaozhunlewomenzheiqunnianzhangyixiedexiaofeizhe。

duxiu:erqiezheigequntidexiaofeinengliyebucuo。zheizhongxiezidejiageyijingchaochuledaxueshengsansibaiyuandeyusuan,ruguobukaolvzhekoudehua,queshiyaoguibushao。

justin:shide,dayueguiyibei。buguowojuedetamendecelvehenzhunque,zhenghaozhenduilewomenzheixieyuanyifangqibufenshenmei,gengzhuzhonggongnengxingdexiaofeizhe。bijingdaolewomenzheigenianji,huoduohuoshaodouhuiyouyixiezubuwenti。

duxiu:wozaixiangzheixiezheigedongxishigefeichanggulaodeyigeshangpin,hainengzenmechuangxin?nichuangxinleyihouzheigeshichangzenmejieshou?

justin:zaichuangxinfangmianhaishiyouyixiefazhankongjiande,cailiaodechuangxinkongjianshiwuxiande,danzaigongyifangmian,yijinghennanyoudadetupole。xianzaidaduoshupinpaidouxiandelibucongxin,zhaobudaoxindetupodian。wulunshizhuiqiuliuchengjianhuahaishijingyiguanli,keyouhuadekongjiandouhenyouxian。

yinweizheixiexiandaigongyeliuchengshuyuguanlixuefanchou,yijingfazhandexiangdangchengshu,hennanzaiyougemingxingdejinbu。zheiyejieshileweishenmexianzaiyouneimeduoxiechangdaobi——tamenyijingwufatongguojiangbenzengxiaolaitishengjingzhengli,zhinengbeidongdiyilaidingdanliang。yidandingdanliangxiahua,tamenjiwufajixujiangdichengben,yewufatishengxiaolv,zuizhongzhinengzouxiangdaobi。

 
本文为转载内容,授权事宜请联系原著作权人。

评论

暂无评论哦,快来评价一下吧!

下载界面新闻

微信公众号

当昂跑们在狂奔,运动鞋制造业正在跌入谷底

congyixiangongchangkanyundongxiexingyedefanrongyuweiji。

文|硅谷101

yundongxiefuxingyezhengzaishangyanyichangyinrenzhumudexinlaogengti。laizimeiguodehoka、ruishideonangpaodengxinruipinpaizhengyichaoguo30%dezengsukuaisujueqi,eryixiechuantongjutouzaizhongguoshichangzezaoyuzengzhangpingjing。

congzuixincaibaoshujukejianzheizhongxianmingfancha:hokapinpaizai2025cainiandierjiduyingshoutongbizengzhang34.7%,dadao5.71yimeiyuan;onangpaodisanjidujingxiaoshouetongbizengzhang32.3%,chuangxiashangshiyilaixingao,qiyataidiqugengshixianle79.3%dejingrenzengzhang;saluomengzaizhongguoshichangkuaisukuozhang,sanjidumoyiyongyou165jiamendian,niandiyouwangdadao200jia。

zhongguopinpaiyezaizheilunbiangezhongzhanxianchuxindehuoli:antajituanshangbannianxieleishourudazhang18%zhi146yiyuan,tebupaobupinleixiaoshoutongbizengzhang25%。xiangbizhixia,chuantongjutounaikezai2025cainiandiyijidubiaoxiandimi,yingshou116yimeiyuan,tongbixiajiang10%,jinglirun10.51yimeiyuan,tongbixiajiang28%,qidazhonghuaquyingshoutongbijianshao3%。

raner,zaishichangfanrongdebiaoxiangzhixia,daigongchangdeshengcunzhuangkuangqueburongleguan。henduogongchangbudebulinglirunjiedan,laobanbujiyingkui,zhiqiunengjigongrenfagongziweichigongchangyunzhuan。zaizhongguo,yundongxiedaigongchangdeshengcunkongjianzhengzaibuduanbeiyasuo——yishuangshoujia500yuandeyundongxie,gongchangdelirunkenengzhiyou10yuan。zheizhongduancengshidelirunfenpei,zheshechuzhenggechanyeliandejiegouxingwenti。

zaizheiqi《guigu101》zhong,womenyaoqingleyiweizaiguangzhoushengengxieleigongyingliandeguwen justin liang(liangwenxin)。taconglingshoucaigoukuaruxieye,qinlileyundongxiecong“yundongshuxing”dao“richangchuanda”defengchaoyanbian,zhanzhuanyudapinpai、dulichangpaihedaigongchangzhijian。taconggongchangyixianshijiaojieshilesangezhongyaoxianxiang:

lirunweibo,shenzhi“linglirunjiedan”:justintoulu,xuduogongchangchaoguo90%dedingdanlaizidanyipinpai,yidankucunjiyahuoxiaoshouxiahua,gongchangdedajiliganjianying。erxianzai,yuancailiaoherengongchengbenbuduanshangzhang,xuduogongchangyijingbeipolinglirunyunzhuan,zhiweiweichigongrenxinshuiyuchangfangkaizhi。

chuangxinxianrutingzhi:naikedeairqidiandanshengyu1978nian,adidasideboostzhongdijishutuichuyu2015nian,erjinshinianlai,yundongxiejishuchuangxinyijiushijianjinshidehuancailiao、huanpeise,tupoxingdechanpinjiduxique。justingengyizijicanyudeyikuanhaozibaiwande“lalianxie”weili,tantaochuangxinweihelvlvzaishichangpengbi。

xiaofeixuqiu“quyundonghua”,shichangquyuduoyuan:jujiabangongheshushifengchaogaibianlexiaofeizhexuanze,yuelaiyueduorencongyundongxiezhuanxiangtuoxie、jujiaxie,yundongxieshichangzhengzaijingli“quzhongxinhua”defenliu,zaijiashang“neijuan”deguochaopinpaibuduanyadijiage,xingyezhengxianruexingjingzhengdexunhuan。

justindeguanchadianfulewomencongcaibaoyushichangshujuzhongdelaidezhiguanyinxiang:yundongxiekansifengguang,zhizaoyeyizaixuanyabianyuan。

以下是部分访谈精选

01 繁荣背后的生存困局:500元的运动鞋,工厂只赚10元

duxiu:congnidejiaodukan,nijuedezuijinzheigexingyeyoushenmebijiaodadebianhuahuozhequshima?

justin:zuidadebianhuajiushijietoufengchaoheyouciyanshendeyundongxiefengchao。wulunshiyiqingqianhaishiyiqinghou,shichangdehexinqushidouhejietoufengchaomiqiexiangguan。zaozai2012nianzhiqian,shimianshangzhudaodexieleizhuyaoshishizhuangxie、nvzhuangxiehuozhenanzhuangpixie,zheixiexiangduizhengshidexiezi。dangshi,yundongxiedeyingyongchangjingjibenshangjuxianyuyundong,erbushirichangchuanzhe。

dancong2012niankaishi,suizhejietouwenhuadexingqi,yundongxiehebanxiekaishiliuxingqilai,zhujianchengweizhulixiekuan。zheigechaoliuyijingwufanizhuan,henshaoyourenzaibashizhuangxiehuozhepixiezuoweirichangzhulidechuandaxuanze。

duxiu:nimenzhuanyerenshizaipingjiayikuanxiezidechuangxinshi,zhuyaoguanzhunaxiebiaozhun?

justin:congxingyedejishujiaodulaikan,womenrenweiyikuanxiezidechanpinli,shouxiantixianzaitadegongnengshang,ergongnengtongchangtongguocailiaochuangxinlaishixian。biruhenzaozhiqianortholitepaomian,dangshizuidademaidianshikangjunhenaicai。zheizhongpaomiancailiaoxianzaiyijingpuji,danzaidangnianjueduishifeichangchuangxindejishu,xianzaizhongguotaiwandegongchangyijingnengbazheizhongcailiaozuodejibianyiyouhao,dandangchutaqueshishiyicitupo。

suoyi,womenpingjiachuangxinshi,shouxianhuikancailiao。biru,yigexiediruguonengshejichusizhongbutongdemidu,zheijiushicailiaoshangdetupo。qicishijiegoushangdechuangxin,birucongputongdejiaoshuizhanheshengjidaochabahuozhemokuaihuazuhesheji,zheidoushijiegoushangdeliangdian。danruguozhishizaipeiseshangzuowenzhang,neijiubunengsuanshizhenzhengdechuangxinle。

duxiu:neixianzaizhuliudeyundongxiejiegouyounaxiemoshi?

justin:muqianzhuliudeyundongxiejiegoufenweiliangdalei:

diyileishibanxie,yejiaoliuhuaxie。zheizhongxiezijishuhanliangbugao,gongyishiyongshengxiangjiaojiangxiebaoguoqilai,zaifangjingaowengaoyadeliuhualuli“zhushu”,rangxiangjiaobianying。kuangweidexiejiushidianxingdeliuhuaxie。liuhuaxiesuiranlishiyoujiu,danmeishenmejishushangdegexin。

dierleishilengzhanxie,yejiushimuqianzhuliudeyundongxiejiegou,baokuolanqiuxie、paoxiedeng,birunaike、adidasi、anta、liningzheixiepinpai。tadezhizuogongyishiyongjiaoshuijiangdadi、zhongdihexiemianzhanzaiyiqi,zhanjuleyundongxieshichang90%defene。

dui,congqishiniandaikaishi,yundongxiedejiegoujishujibenyijingguhuale。suiranhoulaiyouyixiexindesheji,birubuxuyaojiaoshuijiunengbaxiemianhexiedijiehedejiegou,danzheixiejishuyizhimeinengdaguimoyingyong。yuanyinzaiyu,tamendexiantianquexianhenduo,birushiyongshoumingduan、chuanzheshushidubuzu、shejiziyoudubugaodeng。xiangbizhixia,lengzhanxinggongyijichengshuyoulinghuo,keyimanzugezhongfuzasheji,suoyiyizhishixingyedezhuliuxuanze。

duxiu:biruyishuangputongdeyundongxie,gebufenchengbenzhanbiruhe?

justin:yibanlaishuo,mianliaodechengbenzhanbizai30%-40%,mojuhepeishibufen,biruzhongdi、hougendezhichengjiandeng,yezhan30%zuoyou。zheilianggebufendebiliyoushihouhuihuhuan,jutiqujueyushejixuqiuhecailiaoxuanyong。biru,youxieshejizhong,mojuchengbenhuitebiegao,chaoguomianliao,danyeyouyixiexiexingyinweixuanyonglegaoduancailiao,mianliaochengbenfanergaoyumoju。

shengxiadebufenjiushifuliaoheshengchanhuanjiederengongchengben,haiyouyunyingfeiyong,zheixiejiaqilaidayuezhan30%。yunyingfeiyongbaohanlegongchangdejichuguanlikaizhi,birushuidian、fangzudeng,haibaokuoshengchanhuanjiedeguanlichengben,birucaigou、paichandeng。zuihoujiushidaigongchangdelirun,zheigebiliyibanzhiyou5%-10%。danzaishijizhong,xianzaihenduogongchangweilenadan,lirunshenzhibeiyasuodaojiejinyuling。

duxiu:daigongchangdelirunkeyitiqiansuanchulaima?biruzaishengchanqian,nengquedingjutizhuanduoshaoma?

justin:shide。zaibaojiajieduan,pinpaifangtongchanghuiyaoqiudaigongchangtijiaoyifenxiangxidechengbenhesuanbiao,zheilimianbaokuorengongchengben、guanlifeiyongyijilirunlv,yejiushiwomenxingyelishuodelop(labor、overhead、profit)。zheixiechengbenbixufenxiangliedefeichangqingchu,biruniguleduoshaogongren,meigegongrenmeixiaoshidegongshichengbenshiduoshao,gongchangdeyunyingfeiyong,baokuoshuidian、fangzu,shenzhiguanlicengdexinzi,zheixiedouyaohesuanjinqu。zuihou,haiyaobanidelirunlvmingquebiaochulai。

buguo,zheizhishililunshangdelirun。shijishang,youyushichangjingzhengtaijilie,henduodaigongchangweileqiangdan,yijingbalirunyasuodaolejiejinyulingdeshuiping。huanjuhuashuo,pinpaifangdehesuanbiaolikenenghuixiezhe“lirunlv5%-10%”,danzaishijishengchanzhong,henduoshihouzheibufenlirunjihushimingyishangde。xianzaidegongchangjibenshangdouzaikaoboliduoxiaomianqiangweichi,nengaoxialaideyedoushixiwangdingdanliangnengwendinghuozhejinyibuzengzhang。

duxiu:jiasheyishuanglingshoujia500yuandexie,pinpaifangdechengbendagaishiduoshao?

justin:yibanlaishuo,yishuanglingshoujia500yuandexie,pinpaifangdechuchangchengbendagaishizai100yuanzuoyou。yejiushishuo,zheishuangxiecongwomendaigongchangnahuodejiageshi100yuan。erwomenzuoweidaigongchang,kenengzhizhuan10kuaiqiandelirun。

zhei500yuandeshoujiali,zhishaoyou300yuanshibeizhongjianhuanjiechidiaole。zheixiezhongjianhuanjiebaokuoqudaofeiyong,birushangchang、jingxiaoshangyaochoucheng;haiyouguanggaofeiyong,birumingxingdaiyanfei、dianshiguanggaofeideng;zaijiashangpinpaizishenderengongheyunyingchengben,xiangshejishituanduidexinzi、shichangyingxiaofeiyong,zheixiedoushiyibibuxiaodekaixiao。huanjuhuashuo,xiaofeizhemaizheishuangxiesuohuade500yuanli,zhenzhenghuazai“xie”benshencailiaohezhizaoshangde,qishizhizhanhenxiaoyibufen。

duxiu:xiangbiguoneishichang,zhuanyidaohaiwaihuibuhuigengyoujihui?guowaixiaofeizhedegoumailishibushigaoyixie?

justin:haiwaishichangqueshiyouyidingdeyoushi,tebieshihuilvshangdechayi。biru,500yuanrenminbizaioumeishichangdagaizhixiangdangyu70meiyuan。erzaioumeishichang,zuidishixinchabuduoshi20meiyuan,yigerengan3gexiaoshijiunengmaiyishuangxie。conggoumailidejiaodulaikan,queshixiangduikuansong,hua70meiyuanmaishuangxieduitamenlaishuobingbushihendadefudan。

danguoneishichangdewentishixiaofeizhedejiagemingandutaigaole。xianzaiguoneidenianqingxiaofeizheduiyuxiezidexinlijiaweifeichangmingque,300yuanshiyigezhongyaode“xinlixian”。yidanjiagechaoguo300yuan,tamenhuijuedebuzhi,zhuanerqumainaike、adidedazhekuan。zheigewentiduiwomenzuodaigongdeyingxianghenda,yinweiruguopinpaifangxiangzaiguoneishichangjingzheng,tamenjiubixuyadishoujia。ershoujiayadidejieguojiushiduidaigongchangdechuchangjiayaoqiuyehuigengkeke,gongchangdelirunkongjianjinyibubeiyasuo。

duxiu:suoyixianzaideqingkuangshibushiyoudianxiang“siwangluoxuan”?xingyeneijingzhengfeichangjilie,dajiajuandehenlihai,zuihouzhenggexingyedoushoudaoleyingxiang。

justin:keyishuomeigerendouzaipinmingyadijiageqiangshichang。

duxiu:danyiqingzhihou,yundongxieheyundongfushidexuqiubushidafushangzhanglema?zhenggeshichangzaizengzhang,anlishuoyinggaidajiadounengfendaogengduodangaocaidui。weishenmenimenxingyedeganshouhaishizheimecha?

justin:meicuo,yiqingzhihou,quanqiufanweineijujiabangongdexingqiqueshituidongleyundongxiedexuqiuzengzhang。dajiabuyongzaichuanneixie“shufurenxing”deyifu,biruniuzikuhuozhezhengzhuang。zheizhonghuanjingxia,yundongxieyiduchengweishouxuan,shichangzhengtixuqiushangzhangdehenmingxian。youqishiyiqingchuqi,“yundongshehua”(sport chic)fengchaoliuxingqilai,xiaofeizhegengyuanyimaineixiejiyouyundonggongnengyouxiandeshishangdegaoduanyundongxie,shichangkanqilaihenfanrong。

danshi,zheizhongqushibingmeiyouchixutaijiu。suizheshijiantuiyi,xiaofeizhedexuqiuzhujianzhuanxianggengjiasongchi、gengjujiadexiekuan,birutuoxie、bangenxie,shenzhiyixiemujishixiekuan。zheixiexieziyinweishushixinghesuiyixinggenggao,kaishiqudaichuantongyundongxiedeshichangfene。xiaofeizhekaishijuedeyundongxie“taijinle”、“taizhengshile”,bugouqingsongzizai。suoyicongwodetiganlaikan,xianzaichuantongyundongxiedeshichangshijishangshizaizhubuehua。

duxiu:yejiushishuo,suiranzhenggexieleishichangzaibianda,danbingmeiyouzhenzhengbangdaochuantongyundongxiezheigepinleishixianzengzhang?

justin:dui,xianzaishichangdequshishizouxianggengduoyuanhua。yiqian,zai2012nianzhiqian,suoweide“duoyuanhua”qishizhishijuxianzaiyigeleibielimian,birushizhuangxiezheigedaleihuifenchunvzhuangzhengzhuang、nanzhuangxiuxianzheiyangdexifenpinlei,danzhengtishangpixierengranzhanjuzhudaodiwei。neishihoude“duoyuanhua”gengduozhideshitongyigeleimuli,butongpinpaitongguoshejiqufenfengge,erbushileimudebenzhiduoyanghua。

dandaole2012nianzhihou,shichangturanfashenglehenshengyingdezhuanbian,shizhuangxiebeixunsupaoqi,yundongxiechengweizhuliu。xianzai,zheizhongqushiyouzaifashengbianhua,xiaofeizhezhujianxianggengshushi、gengjujiadexieleizhuanbian。worenweiwomenzhengchuzaiyigezhuanxingqi,yigeguodujieduan。weilaishichangdezhongxinhenkenenghuizhubuzhuanxiangsongchihejujiafenggedexiekuan。

duxiu:zheiqueshihewomencongshujuhuocaibaoshangkandaodeqingkuangyouhendabutong。yinweicongzhengtilaikan,shichangshizaizengzhangde。erqie,xiangyixiexiaozhongxieleipinpaidecaibaobiaoxianyefeichangbucuo,birulululemeng(lululemon)yekaishizuoxie,haiyouangpaozheiyangde。jiyuzheixiexinxi,womenhuijuedeshichangzhuangtaihenhao。dannimencongyezhedeganshouquewanquanbuyiyang。

justin:shide,womencongyezhedetiganfeichangcha。xieleixingyexianzaihuoxuhaisuanbushangwanquandexiyangxingye,danxiechangbenshenjueduishiyigexiyangxingye。

zhenggeyundongxieshichangxianzaidoubuhaoguo。wulunshiliuhuaxie、banxie、lanqiuxie、zuqiuxie、paoxie,jihusuoyoupinpaidouzaizhengzha。weiyihainengkandaoyixiexiaorongde,kenengzhiyouneiliangjiaxinruipinpai。dansheizhidaotamennenghongduojiu,nenghuoduojiuni?bijing,chaoliuwangwangdoushiduanzande,henkuaijiuhuibeiyiwang。danworenwei,buguanshicongchuangxinhaishicongredulaikan,ruguonifangqilechuangxin,zhishimanzuyuzhuanxiehuanpidelirun,neizheijiagongsilishuaituijiubuyuanle。

02 "只能在物料上创新"——一个古老行业的瓶颈

duxiu:congnimendejiaodulaishuo,zhixiezheigexingyeneibuyoumeiyou“bishilian”?jinzitadedingduanshishenmeyangdeni?

justin:kendingshishougongpixie,haowuyiwen。

shougongpixiejiushishougongkaipi、shougongcaijian、shougongfengzhi,suoyoudegongxudoushikaoyishuangshoulaiwanchengde。yingguodenorthampton(beianpudun)xiejiangjiushizheileishougongpixiegongyidedaibiao。shougongpixiewulunconglishidiweihaishijishuhanliangshanglaishuo,jueduishixingyejinzitadedingduan。

zaiwangxia,jiushiyixienvzhuanggaogenxiepinpai,birujimmy choo,zheileipinpaikeyisuanshizhanzaijinzitadingduandelingyigefenzhi,heshougongpixiejihuzaitongyishuipingxianshang。buguo,shougongpixiekenenghaishihui“wangxiakan”tayidian。erjimmy choozenengbishineixiexiangsteve madden、sam edelmanhuozheneutralizerzheileiwanquanliushuixianshengchandepinpai。

ruguozhicongjishuhanliangdejiaodulaikan,zaiwangxiajiushiyundongxiele。qishiyundongxiedejishushuipingbingbudi,youqishixiangnaikezheileipinpai,gongyishangshenzhibubigaogenxiecha。buguo,yundongxiezaiwangxiajiushibanxie,birukuangweizheilei,jishuhanliangjiuxiangduihendile。jibenshangzhiyaobaxiezizuochulaijiuxingle。suoyishuo,wozheisuanshigaokaidizoule。

duxiu:zainidecongyeshengyazhong,youmeiyounayishuangxiehuozhemougexiangmurangnijuedetebiejiaoao?shenzhishinenggouchufayixiechuangxinjihuide?

justin:dangnianwomenzuoguoyigeyidalipinpaijiaoacbcdexiezi,tashiyigefeichangtebiedexiangmu。

tadangshizhendeshidianfuxingdesheji,yizhidaoxianzaiwodoujuedetafeichangjuyougemingxing。tazuidadetedianjiushibaxiemianhexiedifenkaile。gangcaiwomenliaodao,chuantongxiezishitongguojiaoshuihezhongdijiangxiemianhexiedijieheqilaide。erzheigepinpaizhijiequxiaolezhongdi,bazhanhemeijiecongjiaoshuibianchenglelalian。

yejiushishuo,yishuangxiedexiedishigudingde,danxiemianshikeyisuiyigenghuande。zhiyaoyouyishuangxiedi,nikeyisuishibaxiemianchaixialai,zaizhuangshangxindexiemian,zheiyangxiezijiubianchenglelingyishuang。

duxiu:tingqilaiyoudianxianglegaoneizhongpinchadeshejifangshi。

justin:dui,leiside。buguozaimeiguoqishizaoyouleisidechangshi,danzuodehenchou。dangshitamenyongdeshineizhongdakuaidesuliaolalian,chihenda,feichangxianyan。tamenhaijizheizhongxieziqilegewaihaojiao“shayu”,yinweixiezidelalianjiuxiangzhangkaizuideshayuyiyang,yachitebiemingxian,henxingxiang,danshizhendebuhaokan。

erwomenzuodebanbenyonglefeichangxidenilonglalian,zhengtigengjiayinxing,shijuexiaoguoyaohaohenduo。erqiewomenhaizailalianshangjialeyicengfangposhuidechenbuhetuceng,suiranbunengwanquanfangshui,danposhangyibeishui,xiezilimianshibuhuishide。

erqiezheikuanxiebujinzaiwaiguanshanggengmeiguan,gongnengxingyegengyoutupo。meiguanbenshenjiushiyizhonggemingxingdechuangxin,yinweilalianyuexiao,duitadexingnengyaoqiujiuyuegao。yaoshixianzheigejishu,xuyaozaishejihegongyishangdadaofeichanggaodebiaozhun。suoyi,dangchuwojiedaozheigexiangmushi,zhendejuedefeichangyoutiaozhanxing。

duxiu:nimenhualeduojiushijianquwanchengzheishuangxiedeshejiheshengchan?

justin:wohelingwaiyigetongshiyiqihualeyiniandeshijiancaiwanchengta。keyishuo,duiwomenlaishuo,zheishuangxiejiuxiangzijideqinshenghaiziyiyang,womendouhenjiaoao。danyihandeshi,zheikuanxiehoulaimaidebuhao。

duxiu:weishenme?shiyinweixiaofeizheduizheigepinpaihuozhechanpingainianbulejie,haishitamenduizheigeshejibenshenburenke?

justin:qishixiaofeizheduizheigegainianshihenganxingqude。gangkaishideshihou,dajiaduizheizhongkeyigenghuanxiemiandeshejidoufeichanghaoqi。erqieyunyingfangdingdejiagezaidangshi(2017nian)yesuanheli,bingbushigaobukepande“tianjia”。zaiwomenshanghaidiankaizhangdeshihou,queshixiyinlehenduorenpaiduishichuan,changmianyiduhenrenao。danshi,zheicishichuanzhijiehuidiaolezheishuangxiedeshichangqianjing,yinweitadeshejiyouyigezhimingdequexian——xiexuanfeichangzhai,bushiheyazhourendejiaoxing。

duxiu:neiweishenmezaishejideshihoumeiyoujiejuezheigewentini?

justin:qishiwomenzaojiufaxianzheigewentile,yexiangshejishitichuguoyijian。womenshuo,zheishuangxiedexuanxingtaizhaile,yazhourenhuichuanbujinqu,bixugaikuanyidian。danshejishizhijiejujuele,tashuoruguobaxiexuangaikuanle,zheishuangxiejiubuhaokanle。

duxiu:shejishishinaguoren?

justin:yidaliren。

duxiu:suoyiyidalirenheyazhourendejiaoxingbenlaijiushiwanquanbuyiyangde?

justin:dui,wanquanbutong。yazhourendejiaoxingtedianshiqianzhangkuan、jiaobeigao,erouzhouren、tebieshiyidalirendejiaoxingpianshouzhang,jiaobeiyebijiaodi。shejishidangshiwanquanmeiyoukaolvguoyazhouxiaofeizhedexuqiu。womenzuoweikaifatuanduiqishiyijingtichulexiugaijianyi,danshejishijianchibugai。zheijiushiyigedianxingdeanli——shejishide“zifu”zhanshenglezhuanyeyijian。guigenjiedi,chanpinshibaideyuanyinbingbushiyunyingfanghuokaifatuanduidewenti,ershishejibenshencongyikaishijiucunzaiquexian,zhudinghuishibai。

ruguotadeshichuanjiaoganhao,nenggoushipeidaduoshurendejiaoxing,wojuedezheishuangxiewanquanyoujihuichengweibaokuan。dangshiyiqianduokuaiqiandejiagekeyimaisanshuangxie,xiangdangyuliangtaodadihesanzuxiemian。duiyuxiaofeizhelaishuo,guangshizheigexinxianganjiuzugouxiyinrenle。danxianshishi,xiaofeizhemaihuiquzhihoufaxiangenbenchuanbujinqu,neizheigechanpinhaiyoushenmeyiyini?tade“diyiqiang”meiyoudaxiang,houmianziranyejiumeiyourenhejihuile。

duxiu:ruguoxianzaiyoujihuirangnizhongxinqidongzheigexiangmu,nijuedetahaiyoukenengchenggongma?

justin:yijingmeiyoujihuile。zhongguoxiaofeizheyouqijianwang,yinweitamendexuanzetaiduole。meitianzaitaobao、tianmaoshangdouyousuoweide“guochaopinpai”yongru,jiageyebugao。qishi,dangshiwomenzheikuanxiededingjiabingbugui。daole2020nian,tamenhaichangshiguozhengzhaleyixia,huanleyijiaxindeyunyingfanglaijieshou,danzuihouhaishishibaile。

neicichangshiwanquanmeijiqirenheshuihua。wohoulaikandaotamenyijingzhongxinshejilechanpin,shenzhihuanyonglexindedadi。danshicuodechengbenshizaitaigaole,guangshimoju、gongchangfeiyong、dayangfeiyong、shengchanfeiyongherengongfeiyong,jiaqilaijiujibaiwanrenminbi。

zheigeyusuanzaidagongsineibuyigeshiyebulishihendadekaixiao。nixiang,huazheimeduoqianheshijianquzuoyikuanchanpin,ruguohaimeituichujiushibaile,neisheihaiganzaichangshini?ruguowoshifuzezheigexiangmudelaoda,gaobuhaozhenggetuanduidoudejiesan,dajiadoumeifanchi。suoyihenduolingdaozuihouzhinengxuanze“deguoqieguo”,buganqingyimaoxian。

duxiu:wojuedenijiangdezheigelizifeichangshengdong,nengshuomingyikuanxiecongchuangxindaoshichanghuayouduonan。

justin:dui,bieshuobaokuanle,nengzifuyingkuijiuyijingsuanchenggong。dangshishanghaineibiandeyunyingfangyeshizheimexiangde,tamendemubiaobingbushikaotazhuandaqian,zhiyaobukuijiuxing。danwentishi,tayituichujiukaishikui。wotingshuodiyipidahuojuranmaileliangniandoumeimaiwan。

diyipidahuowojideshi6wanshuangzuoyou,dagaibaokuoliangwantaodadihesanwanduojianxiemian。jieguoxiemianhaoxiangmaichuqubudaoshifenzhiyi,wanquanmaibudong。yinweiyidanxiezidexuanxingzuocuole,zaizenmetuixiaodoumeiyouyong,xiaofeizhegenbenchuanbujinqu。yifudalehainenggaixiao,danxiexiaolewanquanmeibanfagai。ruguoxiemazaidayihao,kuandugoule,zhangduyoutaizhangle。

xiezishilitidejiegou,diaozhengqilaitebienan。zheiyeshiweishenmezhixiexingyeyizhizhanzaishishangxingyebishiliandedingduan。zuoxiedegongyifuzadeduo,xiechangkanbuqineixiezuoyifuhewazide。

duxiu:jiulianneixiegaodingshizhuangwu,yebuyidingyouzhixiedejishuhanliang?

justin:caifenghexiejiangbi,xiejiangdangranshikeyiaoshicaifengde。yinweixiezidebujianbiyifufuzadeduo,erqietaxuyaoyanjiuzubujiegou,shejidewentiyebiyifujingxideduo。yifukenengjiushijigeguanjiebuweidewenti,danxiezibixukaolvxuanxingruhewanquanfuhezubudeshenglijiegou,biruxueyexunhuan,zheitebienan。gengbuyaoshuoxianzaidezhixiegongyiyijingfazhanchengyigeduoxuekexiezuodexiandaihualiuchengle。

zuoxiebujinxuyaoshougongfengzhihejiancaidejingxi,haixuyaodongcailiaoxue、mojugongyi,shenzhiwulihehuaxuezhishi。jiunaneishuanglalianxielaishuo,tazuiguanjiandebufenbushixiedi,yebushixiemian,ershitadelalian。zheigelalianduiwomenlaishuowanquanshixindelingyu,jianzhixiangzaixueyimenwaiyu。yiqianwoconglaimeiyouxiangguozuoxiexuyaoyanjiulalian。

tagenyifushangdelalianyaoqiuwanquanbuyiyang。yifudelalianzhixuyaowanchengbihedegongneng,danzheishuangxiedelalianhaiyaochengshouxingzoushidechongjili。zaiputongxiezili,zheizhongchongjilihuifensandaoduogebujianshang,danzaizheishuangxieshangwanquanyilailalian。womenbixujisuanlaliandekangchongjinenglihewulicanshu,erzheixieceshishimeiyouxingyebiaozhunde。womenzhinengzijimosuo。

weilegaodingzheigelalian,wojihumeitianpaoqulalianchang,genlaobangoutong,yaoqiutamendiaozhengshengchangongyi。birutucengzenmechuli、cailiaoruhejiagu、laliandekanglalibixudadaoduoshao。zhenggeguochengtebieshaonao。zhiqianconglaimeixiangguozuoxiezixuyaoquyanjiuzheime“xizhimojie”dedongxi。

duxiu:wojuedezheishiyigehenhaodechuangxingushi。jishizuihoushibaile,nirengrannengganjuedaozijizaizuoyixiequanxindedongxi,shibierenmeiyouchangshiguode。

justin:dui,bijinghuadebushiwodeqian。zhanzheshuohuabuyaotengma。

duxiu:danmeigedagongsiruguoxiangzuochanpinchuangxin,doubixuchengdanzheizhongshibaidefengxian。yinweiyidanchenggong,shouyishijudade。

justin:lilunshangshizheiyangmeicuo。danzaidangxiazheigejingjixingshixia,shichangdebuquedingxingtaidale,sheihaiganzheimeshuoni?

yingxiongbuchangyou。dangnianshanghaineiweilaobanshilezheigexiangmu,zuihoushibaile,tazijiyehenshoudaji。wotingshuotahoulaikailehenduociwenzehui,yinweineipikucunyazaineili,suirancongcaiwushangkanzheidiansunshiduitalaishuobusuanshenme,danxinlishangdedajishijudade。

duxiu:zhiqiannaikedechuangshirenfeier·naitezai《xiegou》yishuzhongyetidaoguo,tazuichubingbushizijiyanfayundongxie,ershichuanglilelandaitiyugongsi,dailiribendeguizhonghuxie。raner,youyushuangfangjingyinglinianbuhe,qieguizhongyaoqiushougoulandaigongsi51%deguquan,fouzejiangshouhuidailiquan,zheiposhifeier·naitezhinengzijizhongxindazaoyigepinpai,yejiushihoulaichengweinaikedepinpai,bingkaishiyanfazijideyundongxie,fouzetajiuhuimianlindaobidefengxian。xianzaikanlai,henduopinpaibingmeiyouxianrurucidekunjing,xuduopinpaiyirannenggouyikaoguoqudejileijixushengcun。

justin:shide,zheigegushifeichangjingdian,dajiadouzhidao。jibianzaiyeneiwai,tayeshiliuchuanshenjiudechuanqi。henduoshihou,chuangxinshibeibichulaide。

duxiu:yaomeshiyinweiduixiezidejizhireai,zhendexiangzuochuyishuangdajiaxiaidexiezi。

justin:laoyibeidenaikerenzhendeshizheiyang,tamendexuantoushifuzhendeshiliangerbuwenchuangwaishi,yixinzhizuoxuantou。tamenzhuanzhuyuyanjiuzenyangzuoxuantoucainengrangxiezigengjiashushi。biruwoyudaoguoyiweinaikedeyuanlaojirenwu,gonghaodagaishiqianshiweihuoqianjishiweideneizhong,shuyufeichangzishendecunzai。

tacengjingshuoguo:“wozheiyibeizidouzaixuantoufangli,jiuzhigaixuantou。”naikedexuantoudayueyouyiqianduo、jibaigedoushitaqinzishejide。wogangruxingshi,wodoujuedezijinenggenzheiyangdedalaotongzhuochifan,jianzhishimodaderongxing,nengchuiyibeizi。laoyibeidenaikerenjiushizheiyang。

buguohoulaiwofaxianqingkuangfashenglebianhua,wojiechudaoqitapinpai,shenzhishinaikeneibudetuandui,dajiakaishitaolundedoubuzaishiruhetishengxiezideshushidu,ershimankouxingyeheihua,birukpi、roi、xiekuanxiaoshoudefeiyong breakdown。henshaoyourenzaitanlunruheshejichuyishuangnengranggukechuanshanggengshushidexiezi。zheixietaolunjihuzhizaigongchangneibutingdao,shenzhizaigongsineibuyebuzaitile。

duxiu:chanpinchuangxinyuxiaoshou、yijizuizhongkehutiyanzhijian,sihuwanquantuojiele。

justin:dui,zheixiegongsilidekaifatuandui,wogengqingxiangyurenweitamenxiangshizhijianyuanhuozhezhongzhuanshejishi。meiguoneibianjiangshejifanganjiaoguolai,gongchangderenwujinjinshijianchapeiseshifouzhengque、tuanshifouzhunque、chexianshifouhegui、shifouyouxiaci。gongzuoliuchengdazhijiushizheiyang,querenyucaotudeyizhixing,quebaomeiyouwenti,ranhoujiujinruliangchanjieduan。henduoshihouzheizhongzuofahuidaozhilujingyilai。

wojuede,ruguoshejishizaizheizhonghuanjingzhongjinxingshenduchuangxin,duiyusuoyoushejishilaishuodoushiyizhongjudadetiaozhan。nenggouzaizheizhongqingkuangxiazuochuyinlingxingyedechuangxin,xiangdangniandeairpad huozhe air jordan neiyangdegexin,zhendehenshao。daduoshushejishizhinengjinxingyixiexiaoguimodechangshi,zuoxielianmingkuanhuoxiaobujiandegaidong,zheizhongsuoweidechuangxin,tongchangzhishimougebujiandexiaodiaozheng。

henduoshihou,chuangxindebeihoubingbushizhenzhengdetupo,ershitongguoxuanchuanxincailiaodefangshi,jizheixiexiaobianhuafuyukuazhangde“chuangxin”biaoqian,yongjijuhualaimiaoshuyigejiandandesigezicailiao,jiecixiyinyanqiu。shijishang,yinzangzaiqizhongdezhishixingyeneibudepingjing,wulunshidaigongchanghaishipinpai,douyijingxianrulekunjing。

03 从品牌到电商的阵痛:大厂代工、炒鞋退潮与零售渠道之变

duxiu:xiangnaikeheadidasizheiyangdequanqiupinpai,tamenshizenmetiaoxuanhefenpeidaigongchangheshengchanxiandeni?

justin:tongchanglaishuo,tamenhuibazuijingying、zuigaoduandejitiaoshengchanxianjizhongzaiyiliangjiagongchangzuo。biru,baochengyiqianzaizhongshansanxiangjiuyouliangtiaozhuanmenweidapinpaifuwudeshengchanxian,naikeheadidengpinpaihuizhidingjigexieguanyuanlaiguanlizheixieshengchanxian。baochengzaizhongguotaiwandedaigongchangzaixingyelisuanshizuidazhiyi。

baochengzaizhongshansanxiangdegongchangyijingyouhenzhanglishile,wojidezhishaoshi90niandaideshier,womenchuzhonghegaozhongshiqumaiqiuxie,henduorendouhuiquneifujinmai,yinweineilideweihuozuiduo,zhuyaoshidanpin、zhiliangbuhegedexiezihuozhebuliangpin,jiushisuoweide“laoshuhuo”。neishihoudajiajingchangqudedifang,jiushizaigongchangduimiandeneitiaojieshang。

duxiu:zheixiexiezigongchangkeyiyouquanlimaima?ruguozheixiexieshangyoupinpaidelogo,yiyigejididejiageliuchu,pinpaifangbuhuiguanma?

justin:xieyeliyougebuchengwendeguiju,jiushishuo,ruguoyipixieziliyouyibufenbeibiaoshang“qcbuhege”debiaoqian,zheixiexiepinpaifangshibuhuifuqiande。xiechangmorenzheixiexiehaishishuyutamendezichan,busuanpinpaifangdechanpin。

nengbunengmaijiukanpinpaifangshifouzhuijiule。yibanlaishuo,pinpaifangshimorenzheizhongqingkuangde,yinweitamenbuxiangyin200shuangxiezigenxiechanggaohuaiguanxi。bijingniburangxiechangmai,putiandexiechangyiyanghuimai,zheiyangyoushenmechabieni?dangshiwomenjingchangqumaizheixie“laoshuhuo”,shenzhinengmaidaoganggangzaixianggangshangshidekuanshi。womennengmaidaodexiezijihuhexianggangtongbufashou。suoyi,womenkandaodeneixiechaoliukuanshi,henduodoushizaizhongshanshengchande。

houlaiwojinruzheigexingye,wotingshuo,xiangwogangcaishuodeneiyang,youliangjiagongchangshitamendezhulihejingruibudui,zhuanmenfuzekaifaheshengchanneixiedingjikuanshi,biruajdelianmingkuan、nbashizhanqiuxiedeng。neixiexiezideshengchan,jishuyaoqiuhengao,doushizaizheixiegongchanglizuode。wobuquedingzheishibushishishi,danwocongyeneitingshuoguoleisideqingkuang。henduodagongchanghejituandouyouzheiyangdeanpai。xiangfengtai、baochengzheixiegongchang,tamenzaifujianhezhongshandegongchanglidouyoujitiaozhuanmenzuogaoduanxiekuandeshengchanxian,zheixiexianyibanfuzexiaopiliang、gaoyaoqiudechanpin。

duxiu:chuciyiwaijiushijiushiputongdazhongkuan。

justin:dui,meicuo,neijiushiputongdedahuoxie,duiyuzheizhongxiekuanlaishuo,gongchangdezhilianghegongyijiumeiyouneimeyange,chanpinzhiliangcanchabuqi。zheixiexiezidouyoukenengchuxianzheiyangneiyangdewenti。yinweitamenbushitongguojiqizidongshengchanchulaide,ershirengongzhizuode,nanmianhuichuxianyixiequexian。

duxiu:lingyigezhidezhuyidedianshi,wofaxiandajiazuijinchaoxiedexianxiangmingxianjianshao,youqishiyiqingzhihou。wojuedeyiqingqian,dajiahaishihuifengkuangzhuipengyixietedingkuanshidexiezi,birulianmingkuan、xianliangpeisezhileide。danxianzaiwohenshaotingdaoyourenjiajiagoumaixiezi。

justin:guanyuchaoxiedeshi,wojidezai16、17nian,“du”appjiukaishihuoqilaileba?xianzaijiao“dewu”。

neigeshihouwozaivansdekaifabangongshigongzuo。womengongsineishifashengleyicixiemishijian,shejisupremehevansdelianmingxiekuan,neigeyangxieshizaiwodedabanshizhizuode。neitianwozhenghaochucha,huilaizhihou,wolaobancongxianggangdalaidianhua,fengkuangdimawo。wowentaweishenmemawo,tashuonizijiquinstagramkankanfashengleshenme。wogaosutawoxianzaizaicheshang,yushitafalejietujiwo。

jieguoyouyigebuzhimingderenpaojinlewomendeyangpinshi,erneitianqiahaoyangpinshidemenmeiyousuo。zheigerenbazhengzaikaifadesupremelianmingxiepaizhaobingfabudaoinstagram。zheigetiezizailiangxiaoshineidianzanchaoguo5wan,dajiadouzaifengkuangxunwenzheishihenagepinpaidelianmingkuan。

duxiu:zuizhongzheigeshijianyoujieguoma?shisheizuode,huozheduinimendeshengchanyouyingxiangma?

justin:meiyouchachushishei。fanzhengwoyincijigongsipeileyigeyuedegongzi。

duxiu:danzheishuangxiekenenghuibuhuifaneryincimaidegenghao?

justin:woyebuqueding,yinweitabenlaijiuxianliangfaxing,quanqiuzhiyou200shuang。erqiezheikuanxiebingmeiyoujinrudaguimoshengchan,zhishizaiyangpinxianxiaopiliangzhizuo。

duxiu:zheishuangxiededingjiashiduoshao?

justin:guanfangshoujiajibaimeijin,dannibukenengyizheigejiagemaidao,shichangjiagekenenghuijiageling。

duxiu:wojideneiduanshijianqueshiyouhenduoleisidexinwen,birunaikehediordelianming。

justin:dui,neishuangxiezaisneakerheadhuokickersshangchaodao13,000duomeijinyishuang。

duxiu:neizheixiexieziyouchengjiaoma?

justin:yinggaishiyoujiawushi,kenengyeshirenweitaijiadeqingkuang。yinweihenmingxian,yiqingzhihouhuozheyiqingqijian,dajiayijingbutaiguanzhuzheixiechaoliule。shouxianhenduorenshiyele,zaijialinalaineimeduoqian;qici,xiechangyeyinweigezhongxianzhiwufazhengchangshengchanhejiaohuo,zheishiyigehenxianshidewenti。

duxiu:dui,yiqingqijiancengjingyouxinwenshuoputiandexiechangwufakaigong,henduodifangdexiezidoumaibudao。

justin:dui,zheishizhende,bushiyangcongxinwen。xiangchengquneibianyidanhesuanjiancejieguochulai,quanxianfengsuo,xiechangfabulehuo。zheizhongqingkuangzhenshifashengguo。worenwei,congxinlicengmianlaikan,yiqingguohou,henduorenkaishifansi,weishenmeyaoweizheixiexuhuandedongxifuchuneimeduo。henduorendoujinglileshenghuozhongdebiangu,gaibianletamenderenshengguan。worenweizheizhongxinlishangdezhuanbian,yingxianglehenduorenduichaoxiedekanfa。

duxiu:niyouchaoguoxiema?

justin:yinweiwozijicongshizheigexingye,suoyimeiyouchaoguoxie。wolejietadebenzhi。suiranxiezishejikenenggenghaokan,danyejincieryi。womaixiebujinjinkangongneng,haihuizhuzhongwaiguan,yaoqiuxiezifuhewodeshenmei,yanseyehenzhongyao。youxielianmingkuan,wojuedegenbenbuhaokan,weishenmeyaohuaneimeduoqianmaiyishuangzheimechoudexie?nixihuan,ok,neisuini,danwobuhuimai。erqiezaizheigexingye,kanguotaiduohuashaodexinkuan,suoyiwomentianshengjiuduizheixieshiwuyouyidingdemianyili。

duxiu:nijuededianshangduichuantongpinpaizaochenglechongjima?

justin:qitapinpaiwobuqingchu,danvansjueduishishoudaolechongji。zaizhongguodeyiqingqijian,vanszijizhijiejinrudianshanglingyu,jihubajingxiaoshanggaodekuaisidiaole。suoyixianzaihenduojingxiaoshangbuzaicaigoutadechanpinle,vanszijizaidouyinhetianmaokaisheleqijiandian,jiageshenzhibijingxiaoshanghaibianyi。yucitongshi,vanshaiyaoqiujingxiaoshanganyuanjiajinhuo,dantazijiqueyigengdidejiagexiaoshou,neixiejingxiaoshanghainengyuanyichengdanzheigefengxianma?

birunaikexianzaizhongxinpinhuilelaoceo,yeshiyinweizhiqianguoyuyilaidianshang。dianshangmoshikuaisugengxinhuandai,buxuyaoguoduoguanzhushejichuangxin,zhixubutingdigenghuanyansejike。

04 三个品牌的不同选择:玛莎的保守、Vans的高淘汰率、斯凯奇的差异化

duxiu:neinizijizuoxiedexinlulichengshizenmeyangde?congshizhuangxiezuodaoyundongxie。

justin:wojuedeshishenmeifashenglebianhua。dangranmoushengshiqizhongyigeyuanyin。diergeyuanyinshiyinweiwozaizheixingdaidejiule,qianjitiancaigenpengyoutaolunguo,weishenmewomenyizhizaizheixing,jinguangongzuoliangdaqiexinshuibugao。womenzongjieleyixia,jinguangongzuoguodu,qianjidebugou,danwomenhaishizaijianchi。

wohaijidewozaimashagongzuoshi,zoudaonanjingxilumashabaihuosilou,shinanzhuangbu。wozoushangquduipengyoushuo,zheiyicengsuoyoudenanxiepinleidoushiwokaifade,meiyishuangnanxie,wulunshipixie、yundongxiehaishijiajutuoxie,doushiwofuzede。neiyikedechengjiuganwuyulunbi。

duxiu:shinilaijuedingmeiyijinaxiechanpinshangjia,ranhouzuzhishengchanma?

justin:jibenshangshizheiyangde。shouxianshishejishituanduihuishejibutongdexiekuan,ranhoutamenbatujiaojiwo,woderenwujiushijiangzheixieshejizhuanhuaweishiwu。dannengbunengshixianshejishidegouxiang,nengbunengluodi,zheijiushiwodezhizele。suiranzaimashameiyouneimeduotianmaxingkongdesheji,dangongzuohaishitingjuyoutiaozhanxingde。

dui,mashadeteseshituchu“jingdiankuan”,bingqieqiangdiaowending。mashadeceocenggongkaishuoguo:“ruguoninianqing,huozhebuman45sui,zuihaobuyaojinruwomendedian,womenbuhuanyingni。”tazaiyuangongdahuishanggongkaishuodezheiyijuhua,zhenjinglequanchang。

duxiu:neitadeliyoushishenmeni?

justin:tadesilujiushijizhongzai“tuixiurenqun”shang,zhuanzhuyuzhonglaonianshichang。danhoulaizhengming,zheitiaoluqueshizoucuole,zuizhongzhengmingshisiluyitiao。daozuihou,mashazhinengkaomaishipinweichishouru,qitayewujihuquandoushibaile。xieleihefuzhuangshiqizhongdezhongzaiqu。bukanweilai,zhiguanzhuguoqu,zheizhongsiweishixingbutongde。

wozaimashagongzuolesannian,houlaijuedezheizhendeshifeichangwuqu,yingwenyoujuhuajiao“i didn’t sign up for this”(wobushilaiganzheigede)。suiranwozaizheiduanshijiandedaolehendadeduanlian,duziguanlizheimedadebumen,shejizheimeduodesku,bingqieshiwujuxi,conggongchangdaogongyingshangdouyaozijifuze,congtuzhidaoxiezishangshi,wodoudecanyu。wodedaolehendadeduanlian,danyehenjianao,gongzuoyalifeichangda。gengzhongyaodeshi,kandaoneixiemeiyoushenmebianhua、meiyouxinyidexiezi,zhenderangrenjuedekuaitule。

duxiu:suoyinihoulaizaivansshishenmegongzuotiyan?

justin:wotiaocaodaolevanshoucaifaxiantamenmeigeyue、meiyijidouyouxinkuan。tamenbutingdichangshixinsheji、xinxingzhuang、xincailiao,bingbuduanjinxingchuangxinpengzhuang。zheirangwogandaoermuyixin。suiranshuodaojishu,liuhuaxiekuanyemeiyoutaiduojishukeyan。

duxiu:neitamendehexinjingzhenglizainalini?skudefanxinsudushizenmeyangde?

justin:vansdegengxinsudufeichangkuai,wozuoxiaoyangdeshihou,jibenshangshiguoquyiniankaifadezonghe。renjiashiyongshulianglaitaotaini,yinweikaifazheimeduokuanbudaibiaonengmaichuquneimeduo。jugelizi,woyigejiduyaoganwandexiaoyangliang,zuiduodeshihoudayueyou1600duoshuang,meiyishuangdoushibuyiyangde,1600duogesku。suiranwozaimashagongzuolesannian,yebuquedingzijishifoukaifalezheimeduokuan,danzaivans,womeigeyuedouzaiganzheizhonggaoqiangdudegongzuo。

tamenhuibayangpinnadaojingxiaoshangdahui,ranggedidejingxiaoshanghemaishouxuanding。zuihou,cong1600duogeskuzhong,zhiyoudayue200kuanjinruliangchan,zheiyiweizhedayue12.5%dao13%decunhuolv。suoyi,vansdechuangxinsuduhexiaolvshifeichanggaode,yenenglijietaweihenengxunsujueqi。erqieneishidajiadoubijiaoyouqian。

duxiu:zaivansgongzuotingqilaiqiangduyefeichangda,nidelequshishenme?

justin:vansdegongzuoqiangduqueshihenda,dankongxianshiyeyouyixiexianxiashijian,genmashadegongzuoqiangdushibunengbide。masharuguoshi100fendehua,vanszuiduozhinengdao60。

gengxinskushikaifajijiedeshi,richanggongzuozhong,wozhuyaofuzedeshikanyanghejiandushengchan,shengchanfangmianwozhixuyaokanyixia,querenshifoufuheyaoqiujike。

zaidaigongchangfangmian,gongzuomeiyouneimeyangeyaoqiu。zaimasha,womenmeiyouneizhongduorendetuandui,ershiyikao“one man army”demoshi。womenbangongshiyou11geren,danwomenzuole1300wanshuangxiezi,erqiewobingbushizuidadefuzeren。wofuzedenanxieyinianchuhuoliangdayueshi100duowanshuang,ernvxiezeyou400duowanshuang,geyouyigerenfuze。

zaivansdehua,wozhifuzekaifa,suoyigongzuoqiangduxiangduijiaodi。danmeiyigerendouzhenxinreaizheigexingye,tamenduixinshejiyouqiangliedereqing,xihuanzaimeishimeikedegongzuozhongjinxingshejipengzhuanghenaolijidang,neishihougongzuoxiangduigengchuncui,meiyouzaluanwuzhangdeshiwu。

duxiu:neigeshihoushibushigongsiyejiyehenhao?

justin:shide,duiwomenlaishuo,neishizhengchuyushangshengqi。danxianzaivansdeqingkuangxiahuadehenlihai,yijinglianxuliangniankuisunle。

duxiu:xingyedebianhuaqueshihuiyingxiangnideganshou。nizailimianzuodeshubushufu,youshihoubuwanquanqujueyugerennengli,henduoshihoushiyinweiniganghaochuzaiyigefengkou,nizuodemeijianshidoushunli,jiuhuiyouhenqiangdechengjiugan。

justin:keyizheimeshuo,dangshiyouhenduolianming,dajiadouyouxiepiaopiaorandeganjue。neishiwomenjuedezijihaoxiangzhanzaishijiezhidian,zuodeshiqingyehenyouxuronggan。dajiadouhuizhaowomen,wenyoumeiyoulianmingkuandeyangpin,shenzhishuo“buyaodejiwoliuyishuang”。houlaiwolikaishi,qingkuangyijingfashenglebianhua。woqulelingyigepinpai,zhuyaoshiyinweigongsineibudeyixieyuanyin,tuanduihuanlexinguanliceng,gongzuofenweiburuyiqianneiyangyukuai,suoyiwoxuanzelikai,quxunqiugengyoutiaozhanxingdegongzuo。qishi,xindeofferhezhiqianchabuduo,xinziyechabuduo。

duxiu:jiaruxianzaixuyaonijihaopengyouhuojiarentuijianxiezi,nihuijianyishenmeyangdepinpai?zaibubizhuiqiujizhigexinghuoyundongxingnengdeqiantixia,nijuedenagepinpaizaizheifangmianzuodebijiaopingheng?

justin:ruguobukaolvshenmeiyinsudehua,wohuituijiansikaiqi。shuodaozheili,woxiangqiyigehenzhongyaodepinpaijiushisikaiqi。tayeshidongyaonaikeshichangdiweidezhongyaoliliangzhiyi,jiangchengbenhegongnengjiehedefeichangwanmei,zhishizaishenmeifangmianshaoxianbuzu。

duxiu:queshiyoudianxiangzulijian。buguotadetongxiehejianbuxiexilie,congshichangfanyinglaikan,haishihenshouhuanyingde。

justin:zheishiyinweitaqueshizuodaolejiageshihui、xingjiabigao、gongnengchuzhong。jiyuzheixietedian,wofeichangtuijiansikaiqi。xiangtongleixingdexiezi,naikedeshoujiayaobitagaochusanfenzhiyi。suoyishuodaodongyaonaikeshichangdiweidepinpai,sikaiqijueduigongbukemei。

duxiu:zheizhongshichangbiaoxianshiquanqiuxingdema?

justin:shide,zheishiquanqiuxingdexianxiang。sikaiqiqueshizaiquanqiushichangshanggongchenglvedi。angpao、hokazaijingzheng1,000yuanyishangdegaoduanshichang,ersikaiqizezhuanzhuyu500-800yuandejiaweiduan。

duxiu:dui,tamendecelvejiushibadianmiankaizaiadidasihenaikedepangbian。

justin:meicuo,xiangdangyuzaigaosuxiaofeizhe:"juedenaiketaiguide,keyilaiwomenzheilikankan。ruguojuedewomendeshejibugouhao,erqieyusuanchongzudehua,keyiqugebi。"zheiyangbutongpinpaifanernenggouhubu,bangzhubicishaixuanmubiaokehu。biruwozhangmuniang,womenjiujitamaisikaiqi,yinweilaonianrenzaibuxingshihuiyouyixiegugewentihezubujiankangwenti。sikaiqizaizheifangmianzuodefeichangchuse,erqiexiezihenqingbian。

duxiu:nirenweisikaiqizuidadeyoushishishenme?shiqingbianxingma?

justin:shuoqilai,sikaiqizaoqidequanqiukaifazhongxinjiushezaidongguan,jiuzaiyitiaoxiaolushang。

duxiu:dantashiyigemeiguopinpaiba?

justin:shide,buguodangshijihusuoyoumeiguopinpaidouzaidongguansheyoukaifazhongxin。keyishuo,ruguomeiyouzaidongguanshelikaifazhongxin,doubunengsuanshizhenzhengdequanqiupinpai。sikaiqizailvzhougongyeyuanquzhanjulexiangdangdademianji,jiuxiangdangnianvanszaiguanghongyuanquyiyang。lvzhoudezhuligongchangjiangzhenggeyuanqudouhuajilesikaiqi,limiandoushitamendeyuangong。

wojiechuguotamendekaifatuandui,tamenneibuyechengrenzijiadexieziyangshibijiaochuantong,danchuanzheshushi。shuodaopeise,congworuxingshijiujuedeyoudianciyan,yizhidaoxianzaidoushizheiyang。buguoqueshihenshufu,wozijiyechuanguo。weiyidequedianshibugounaichuan,youqishixiedirongyimosun。

duxiu:shiyinweiyonglefapaocaizhidexiedi?

justin:dui,zheishiweilezhuiqiuqingbianxing。niyaozuoqingbiandexiezi,jiuzhinengxuanzeevacaizhi。pucaizhitaizhongle,suoyizhinengyongeva,zuiduozaiwaimianjiayicengnaimodepvchuoyingzhipuwaiqiao,yejiushisuoweidewaiguge。danzhuticaizhihaishieva,zheizhongcaizhiqueshibunaimo,henkuaijiuhuimosun。buguozhengshiyinweichuanzheshushi,xiaofeizhewangwanghuichanshengyilaigan。dengdaoxiezimosunzhihou,ziranerranhuizaimaiyishuang,zheijiuxingchengleyigexiaofeibihuan。tamenjiushiyongshushidulaixiyinxiaofeizhe。

womenzaiersanshisuishikenengbulijiezhonglaonianrendexuanze,shenzhihuiyouxiezhiyi,danxianzaiwomenyedaolezheigenianling,zhongyulijieletamendexiangfa。sikaiqixianzaizhengshimiaozhunlewomenzheiqunnianzhangyixiedexiaofeizhe。

duxiu:erqiezheigequntidexiaofeinengliyebucuo。zheizhongxiezidejiageyijingchaochuledaxueshengsansibaiyuandeyusuan,ruguobukaolvzhekoudehua,queshiyaoguibushao。

justin:shide,dayueguiyibei。buguowojuedetamendecelvehenzhunque,zhenghaozhenduilewomenzheixieyuanyifangqibufenshenmei,gengzhuzhonggongnengxingdexiaofeizhe。bijingdaolewomenzheigenianji,huoduohuoshaodouhuiyouyixiezubuwenti。

duxiu:wozaixiangzheixiezheigedongxishigefeichanggulaodeyigeshangpin,hainengzenmechuangxin?nichuangxinleyihouzheigeshichangzenmejieshou?

justin:zaichuangxinfangmianhaishiyouyixiefazhankongjiande,cailiaodechuangxinkongjianshiwuxiande,danzaigongyifangmian,yijinghennanyoudadetupole。xianzaidaduoshupinpaidouxiandelibucongxin,zhaobudaoxindetupodian。wulunshizhuiqiuliuchengjianhuahaishijingyiguanli,keyouhuadekongjiandouhenyouxian。

yinweizheixiexiandaigongyeliuchengshuyuguanlixuefanchou,yijingfazhandexiangdangchengshu,hennanzaiyougemingxingdejinbu。zheiyejieshileweishenmexianzaiyouneimeduoxiechangdaobi——tamenyijingwufatongguojiangbenzengxiaolaitishengjingzhengli,zhinengbeidongdiyilaidingdanliang。yidandingdanliangxiahua,tamenjiwufajixujiangdichengben,yewufatishengxiaolv,zuizhongzhinengzouxiangdaobi。

 
本文为转载内容,授权事宜请联系原著作权人。