wen | 《zhongguoqiyejia》 lixin

编辑 | 米娜

2024nianzuihouyigedacu，lijiaqizaiciyinfazhengyi。

12yue12riwan，lijiaqizhiboyongjinpuguangdengshangresou。huatineideduozhangjietuxianshi，lijiaqizaizhiboshi，shangpinyongjinyisixianshizaizhibojianshangpinlan，butongshangpindeyongjinchouchengcong10%、12%、15%dao20%budeng。

《zhongguoqiyejia》jucilianxilijiaqisuoshugongsimeione（meiwanwangluokejiyouxiangongsidejiancheng），danxiangguanfuzerenbingweiduijietudezhenshixingyijiyongjinbilidengwentizuochuhuiying。

来源：微博截图

zaihulianwangshang，duoweidianshangxingyerenshidouduiwangchuanjietudezhenshixingchiyi。youxingyerenshigaosu《zhongguoqiyejia》，chaotouzhuboduiyumeizhuangpinpaidechouchengyongjinduozai30%~40%zhijianfudong。guojidapaixiangduijiaodi，lingyouyixiebutaizhimingdeguohuopinyongjinhaihuitupo40%。chuyongjinwai，haiyoulingwaidanshoudekengweifei。

zheizhangjietu，rang“zhubozhongjianshangzhuanchajia”“darenzhuanqiandaoshouruan”detaolun，zaicizaiyulunchangzhaguo。

guoquyinian，chaotouzhubomenyinfalezhongduozhengyi：douyinmeizhuangyigeluowangyu、sanzhiyangqixiadexiaoyanggejunyinxujiaxuanchuanwenti，jielianzaoyukoubeitafang，qianzhewunaituiwangduoyue，houzheqixiadezhibojianzezaoyudamianjitingbo。2024nian9yue，dianshangzhuboxinbakuaishoudezhanghaozhibogongnengbeifengjin，zhidaoshuang11qiancaicongcongfuchu。

yinci，zai2024niande618yushuang11，meizhuangpinpaiyongjiaotoupiao，xuanzecongxiaofeizhexinrenweijizhongjianjianzouchulaidelijiaqi。

ju“qingyanqingbao”tongji，2024nian618dacu，lijiaqizhibojianzai5yue19rideshouchangzhibozhonggongshangjia500geshangpin，qizhong371geweimeizhuang，sheji141gepinpai。er2023nian618deshouchangzhibozhishangjiale324gemeizhuangchanpin，sheji137gepinpai。daoleshuang11，zheigelijiaqizuiweikanzhongdejieri，tadezhibojianshouchangyushougongshangjia391gemeizhuangshangpin，sheji144gepinpai。

zheiyebiaoming，zaimeinianzuiweiguanjiandeliangdacuxiaojiedian，meizhuangpinpaiyijiuyilailijiaqideyingxiangli。

mouguohuomeizhuangpinpaiqianshichangzongjiankaixidui《zhongguoqiyejia》biaoshi，chaotouzhubodezuidagongnengzhiyishi“daxinpin”，daidongyaobuzhubogenjin，zaizheifangmian，lijiaqijihusuanshitaoxizui“haoyong”dechaotouzhubo。

buguo，jinguanlijiaqirengshimeizhuangpinpaizaidacuqijiandediyixuanze，danlijiaqiyeyufaganshoudaomeizhuangxingyedetiaozhan，zaimeione 618qidonghuishang，lijiaqizhiyan，2024niande618dacushijiannande。

zheishenggantanbeihou，shitasuoyikaodemeizhuangpinpaideshengyiyuelaiyuenanzuo。

yifangmian，huazhuangpinshichangzhengtizengzhangweimi。conghuazhuangpinlingshouzongededapanshujulaikan，jinliangnianzhongguohuazhuangpinshichangdezengsumingxianfanghuan。2023nianzhongguohuazhuangpinlingshouzongewei4142yiyuan，tongbizengzhang5.1%，yu2021nianxiangbizengzhang2.9%，er2015niandao2019niandenianjunfuhezengsuwei9.9%。

12yue16ri，guojiatongjijugongbule2024nian11yuehuazhuangpinlingshouejishehuixiaofeipinlingshouzongezhuyaoshuju：1~11yuehuazhuangpinleilingshouzongewei4015yiyuan，tongbixiahua1.3%。

mianduixianshangfeisushangzhangdeliuliangchengben，meizhuangpinpaiyekaishiyanjuanbeizhibojizhimoshalirunkongjiandexianshi，congdarendaihuorezhonglengjingxialai。

caizhuangpinpaifuqifomomydechuangshirencengduimeitibiaoshi，2018nianniandi，gaipinpaijiukaishishezudouyin，caizhongdouyinduanshipindaihuodehongliqi，roi（touzihuibaolv）nengzuodaohaojibaishenzhishangqian。danhoulaibaokuodouyinzaineidezhenggedianshangderoidouxialaihenduo，bozhubaojiayeyuelaiyuegao，daihuoshujuyepubianyuelaiyuecha。

erduiyucengjinrutoubuzhubozhibojiandejingli，gaihehuorenzecheng，gengduodeshipeiqianzhuanyaohe，“yongjinhengao，meiduomaiyidanwomenjiuduokuiyixieqian”。

yushi，taolichaotou，xunzhaoshizhizengliangdexingdong，zaozailiangsannianqianjiuyidaxiang。xuduomeizhuangpinpaikaishijiansheyipinpaiziboweijichu、zhongyaobudarendaixiaoliang、chaotoudaxinpindejuzhen，yekeyiguibiyubaokuolijiaqizaineidesuoyouchaotouzhubokunbang。

“yinweiyuelaiyueduopinpaiyishidao，ruguopinpai50%~60%doushikaolijiaqizhibojiantuojuqilaidehua，pinpaiqishishifeichangweixiande。”shangshuxingyerenshibiaoshi，kaodazhubotuojuqilaihou，pinpaiyehuizhuajinjianshesiyu、tizhenxiaoliang。danyeyoubufenpinpai，chuxianjiangguoduodeyusuanhelirunkongjiantourujiledazhubo，erzaiduanqineimeiyouzijinquweihuzijipinpaihuchenghedeqingkuang。

duoweixingyerenshibiaoshi，jiudangxiadehuanjingeryan，lijiaqihaishimeizhuangquandedingliu。shenzhi，dacuqijianxiangjirulijiaqidehuopan，yebingfeidanchunhuaqianjiukeyishixiande。

zhishixianzai，xianshangliuliangyuelaiyuegui，dangmeizhuangpinpaikaishilixingsikaoruheyudarenxiangchu，dangaoyaozenmefenzhishi，duiyuyilijiaqiweidaibiaodechaotouzhubomen，yeyinggaihuagengduoshijiansikaoruheyuduifangbaochigengzhangjiuhulideguanxi。

01 淘系超头，座位不稳

2020nianqian，kenengshitaobaozhibohelijiaqimenzuihaodeshiguang，2018nian、2019nian，taobaozhibofenbiezhanjulexingye71%he56%deshichangfene。

2020nian，zhibodianshangxingyetupowanyiguimo，douyinhekuaishouxiangjifalijiajitaobao。youbaodaocheng，douyinshenzhixianglijiaqibeihoudemeionegongsikaichuoffer：fensishuliang2bei，baodiyeji1.5beiyutaobao。

meiguoliangnian，taobaozhibolianxuzhesunliangweizhulizhubo，lijiaqichengweitaoxiweiyidechaotouzhubo。jumeitibaodao，2020nianweileliuzhulijiaqi，taobaoappjichule“gudinglijiaqizhuanshuzhibojiandeyijirukou”zheiyiwufajujuedetiaojian。

zhihou，taobaokaishicongquanwang“wa”zhubo。jutaobaozhibogongbudeshuju，2021nian，taobaoxinzenglechaoguo50wanmingxinzhubo。2022niantianmaoshuang11daculinjindeqianlianggeyue，youchaoguo100jiazhibojigouruzhutaobao。danrutaodezhubomen，youxieyutaobaozhibo“shuitubufu”，zuizhongtaobaoweinengzaizaoyigelijiaqi。

cihou，taobaosuibeikuaishouhedouyinhoulaijushang，danlijiaqizuowenletaoxichaotoudeweizhi。tebieshimeizhuangleimu，bishizaitianmaoguojifuzehuazhuangpinzhiboyewudelinyuedui《zhongguoqiyejia》biaoshi，jiumeizhuangeryan，2022nianlijiaqiyirendezhibofenenengzhandaotianmaoguojimeizhuangleimuzhibofenede25%~30%，chulijiaqizhiwaisuoyoutaoxizhubojiaqilaiyejinyuezhan5%。

zuoweitaoxiweiyidechaotou，lijiaqizai2022nian6yue，yediyiciyinweineibushebeiguzhangwufajixuzhibo，taxiaoshilesangeduoyue。zhidao9yue20ri，caizaicihuidaotaobaozhibojian。

jinguancongshujushanglaikan，tayiranshidangniandedingliu，dancihouyigedediweisihubiandeyufacuiruo。

2023nian，lijiaqizaicijinglile“huaxizimeibi”zheiyizhongdafancheshijian。tayiyiju“youshihouzhaozhaozijiyuanyin，zheimeduonianlegongzizhangmeizhang，youmeiyourenzhengongzuo”，bazijisongdaolexiaofeizhededuilimian。

jumeitibaodao，2023nianshuang11shouri，lijiaqizhibojianxiaoshouewei95yiyuan，he2022niantongqixiangbi，jianshaoyibanyishang，chuangxiaguoqu3nianxindi；er2024nian618gouwujieshouri，lijiaqizhibojianmeizhuangleimugmv，tongbiqunianxiajiangle46%。

lijiaqidongdangdezheiliangnian，zaigengguangdezhibojianghushang，qiangduotadangaoderenyuelaiyueduo。

biru，qiantomfordcaizhuangshichushendeluowangyu，zhubuzuowenledouyinmeizhuangyigedeweizhi。gongkaibaodaoxianshi，luowangyuyou97%yishangdedaihuoshangpin，doushuyuhufupindalei；dongyuhuizouhonghou，dongfangzhenxuandedaihuopinleiyecengkuozhandaohuazhuangpinlingyu；“fengkuangxiaoyangge”yezaojiudingshanglemeizhuangshengyi，biruyslqidianyeshangguosanzhiyangqixiazhubodezhibojian。

2023nianshuang11，xiaoyangge、jingdongcaixiaozhibojianjielianduilijiaqi“kaipao”。shenzhihouzhezai2024nian，rengzaigongkaijiaobanlijiaqi。

yiweidianshangxingyerenshixiang《zhongguoqiyejia》toulu，zaidouyin、kuaishoudechaotouzhubomeiyoufanchedeneiliangnian，nenghelijiaqisanfenshichangdeyezhiyouluowangyu、xiaoyangge、xinbadeng。lijiaqitamen（tuandui）pingshiyehuiguanzhuzheixiezaidouyin、kuaishou、xiaohongshushangdetoubuzhubo。

“biruxiaoyangge，suirantamaimeizhuangbuxing，danqitapinleihenmeng。kuaishoupingtai，xinbashizhidezhongshideduishou。”gaixingyerenshibiaoshi，“zhiqiandaolefangshaiji，xinbahelijiaqitongshishangmoupinpaidefangshai，shangjiayebeilianggepingtaichedetouteng，zuihouhaishizhineng‘cuoguige’，rangxinbamai40ml，lijiaqimai90ml，zaidapeibutongdezengpin。”

houqizhixiubuduanshentoujinlijiaqiyuanbendelingdi，cengjingdetaoxichaotouyenanmianjiaolv。

02 美妆品牌逃离超头直播间

ergengrangxiridingliugandaoyouxinde，huoshitacengyizhangfajiadedapaimeizhuang，duiyuxiaofeizhexiyinliyezaixiajiang。dijiadapaimeizhuang，yibuzaishilijiaqishouzhongzuiyoulidewangpai。

linyuehaijide，cong2020niankaishi，chuweiya、lijiaqizhiwaidesuoyoudazhubodoukaishimaidijiadapaimeizhuang。lijiaqiheweiyamailaizitaobaoguanfangqijiandianqudaodechanpin，qitadazhuboweimaidijiadapaichanpin，kaishizhaogongyingshangqulingwaiqudaonadijiahuo，birumianshuidiandehuoyuan。

duizhubolaishuo，maizheizhongqudaodedapaimeizhuangyongjindechouchengpubianzhiyou1%，suoyimudebingbushiweizhuanqian，ershiweileyigehaokandechengjiaoe。

zhangciyiwang，kenengyedaozhiguanfangqijiandiandewaizidapaihuazhuangpin，zaixiaofeizhexinzhongyuelaiyuebuzhiqian。jiazhi2020nianhou，guohuomeizhuangjueqi，lijiaqizhibojianwaizidapaiguanqihuazhuangpinyufaquefaxiyinlile。

dangran，zuoweitoubuzhubo，lijiaqiyeyouzhegengweilingmindexingyexiujue。

zaozaidapaishiweimiaotouchuxianzhiqian，lijiaqizhibojianjiukaishichuxiangeleiguohuomeizhuang。zaoqi，huaxizi、wanmeirijidengguohuopinpai，junbeirenweishilijiaqiyishoupenghongde。

yihuaxiziweili，juguoyuanzhengquantongji，2020nian，huaxizipinpaijinrulijiaqizhibojiandecishugaoda71ci，pingjunmeiyuehezuochao5ci。zaishuangfanghezuoqijian，pinpaidexiaoshoueshixianfeisuzengzhang。xibuzhengquanyanbaozhichu，2021nianhuaxizishixianxiaoshoue54yiyuan，jiao2018nianyue0.4yiyuanxiaoshouetishengchaoguo100bei。lingjushanghaizhengquanyanbao，2017nian~2021nianhuaxizishizhanlvcong0.30%tishengzhi6.80%。

danguohuopinpaijintielijiaqidexianxiang，henkuaijiuhuashanglexiuzhifu。

jinru2022nian，kaiximingxiandiganjuedao，yuelaiyueduodexinruiguohuopinpaibuxiangyubaokuolijiaqizaineiderenhechaotouyourenhexingshidebangding。dajiakaishiyishidao，ruguopinpaixiaoliangde50%doukaolijiaqidengchaotouzhibojianlaituijudehua，duipinpaieryanbushiyoushi，fanergengweixian，youqishiyuetoubudedaren，yuerongyiyouweiji。

jutaguancha，xinruipinpaifazhandaoyidingtilianghou，doukaishiquchaotou、quzhongxinhua。xiaopinpaidechanpinjieshidazhubohou，jibendouhuijixuhengxiangkuozhangengduodedaren，laizhubujianshaochaotouzhibojianduiyuxiaoliangdegongxianzhanbi。

jibianmeiyouhuaxizimeibishijiandefasheng，pinpaiyebuyuanyibazijidazaochengyigedarenpinpai。

“gengzhongyaodeshijieshichaotouzhubohou，qujianshewendingderixiaotixi，erbushigequelechaotouzhubodexiaoliangjiubengtadetixi。”kaixibiaoshi。

ciwai，pinpaiduiyuchaotouzhubodeganqingyeyufafuza，xiangjinruchaotoudeliuliangjizhongdi，yiweizheyaoxishenglirunlai“zanjizhi”，danjirudazhubohounengfoudaidongqitaqudaoshangchanpindefugou，jieguowangwangxiang“xuedingedemao”yiyangbukeyuce。

yinci，henduomeizhuangpinpaidouyouzijianhuayuquandexiangfa。

guanchatoubupinpaideyingxiaojiezoubunanfaxian，rujinmeizhuangpinpaihuiweiraozipinpai、pinleijianshezibohaojuzhendetongshi，hezuobutongleixingdezhongyaobudaren，zuihouzaituixinpin、618、shuang11dengjiedianzaitouruziyuanzaichaotouzhuboshang。

“2022nianzhiqian，douyinzhibodequanlizhongxindouzaidarenzhibo（jianchengdabo），jingguozheiliangniandefazhan，bufenpinpaiyetongguodabo，zaixiaofeizhexinzhongjianlilepinpaixinzhi，zaizheigejichushang，pinpaiyeyoulejianshezibojuzhendejichu。”kaixijieshidao，“zheiliangnian，meizhuangpinpaipubianyuqizibojiandexiaoshouenengdadaotianmaoqijiandiande1.5dao2bei。”

pinpaizibojianyichengweibukehushideshourulaiyuan。

yidouyindianboweili，qingyanqingbaoshujuxianshi，2024nianshangbannian，douyinmeizhuangleimuzibogmvchao331yiyuan，tongbizengzhang36.42%，chanpinjunjiawei123.6yuan，tongqi，douyinmeizhuangleimudabogmvchao551yiyuan，tongbizengzhang10.04%，chanpinjunjiawei79.5yuan。

03 品牌自播背后的生意

jinguanpinpaizibodexiaoshoueheyingxianglichixuzengqiang，danduoweixingyerenshidourentong——lijiaqirengshimeizhuangxingye“zuihaoyong”dechaotouzhubo，duanqineimeizhuanglingyuhennanchuxianyigenengyuqikanghengdezhubo，shanglijiaqizhibojianyerengshixuduomeizhuangpinpaizaidacuqijiandebixuanxiang。

ersuoyouxuanzedebeihou，zuizhongdoushishengyiyusuanzhangdeluoji。kaixigaosu《zhongguoqiyejia》，jinguanzibokanqilaixiangshizengzhangzuikuaisudequdao，danxianshiwentishi，muqiandouyin、kuaishou、xiaohongshudechunziranliulianghenshao，pinpaizibojianyaoyoupuguang，jiuzhinengqufufeitoufang。tongguoyixiliefufeitoufanghou，tebieshixinruiguohuomeizhuangpinpaiyejianjianfaxian，ziboduiyutuanduidejingxihuayunyingyaoqiuchengdujigao，zuihouxuduopinpaizaidajianzibojianzheikuaijinxiwangnengzhuan5%huozhiyaoqiubukuisunjike。

guoqujinian，xingyezongxiguanxingrenwei，chuantonghuojiadianshangpingtailiulianghonglizhujianxiaotui。yuhuojiadianshangxiangbi，xinxingneirongdianshangrengchuyuzengzhangqi，qieketongguoneirongjinxingchixuyinliu。

danmeizhuangxingyerenshiqueyoubutongtigan。linyuerenwei，taobaodapanliuliangxiajianghou，douyinqudaodehuihuangyetingliuzailesannianqian。

sannianqianpinpaizaidouyinzuozibo，roihainengdao10，danxianzaikenenglian2douhennandadao。zheiyeshiweishenmemeizhuangquanzongshigantanbushi“renminbiwanjia”，jiuhennanzuoqilaipinpaideyuanyin。

dangjiannanjumianluozairujuzhetoushangshi，dailiangzuikuaidedabo，shibukenengfangqidebankuai。zheiqizhongruoyouyigenenggoudabaoxinpin，daidongxiaoliang，shenzhinengdaidongchanyeshengjishi，xingyerenhennanyoubuxuantadeliyou。

yiweimeizhuangxingyerenshigaosu《zhongguoqiyejia》，meizhuangxingyeyaobuzhuboxuanpinyidingchengdushanghuishoutoubuyingxiang，yigexinpinpaihuoxinchanpinruxianshanglechaotouzhibojian，zhihouhuigengrongyizaiyaobuzhuboneibianbuju。zheiyeshilijiaqizhibojianrengshixingyexiqueziyuandeyuanyinzhiyi。

zaiduoweiyeneirenshikanlai，jinguandacuqijianlijiaqizhibojiandeyongjinhuozhekengweifeihuitigao，danzhenzhengxiangzouzhangqizhuyidemeizhuangpinpaihaishihuizhengqujinruzhibojian，yulijiaqipeihe，dayigeyoujiezoudeyingxiaofangan，laizhengqujiangzheicihezuojiazhizuidahua。

mouzhongchengdushang，lijiaqixiquexingye“quankaotongxingchentuo”。duoweiyulijiaqihezuoguoderenshijunbiaoshi，lijiaqizhibojiandexuanpinhezhaoshangtuanduizaizhenggexingyelidoushifeichangzhuanyedecunzai。

kaixizerenwei，zheizhongzhuanyexingtixianzaihuiduiyigechanpinzaixingyedechuangxinxing、kenengcunzaidebaodian、shangxinshijian、tuiguangzhunbeidengjichuheshidejianyi，“yuhenduodoukuaipaixidetuanduixiangbishinianyajibiedecunzai。”kaixishuo，“lijiaqidezhibochannengkenengzaixiajiang，danzhubozhengtidechannengqishidouzaijiangdi，taxiangduieryanhaishidiyi。qici，lijiaqiyuqitatoubuzhuboxiangbi，zaixuanpindehezuoshijian、jinqianchengbenshangxiangchabingbuxuanshu，xiangjiaoeryandajiahaishiqingxiangshanglijiaqizhibojian。”

zheixiemeizhuangpinpairenkelijiaqideliyou，lijiaqisuoshugongsi——meionezaoyiminruibuzhuodao。ju《zhongguoqiyejia》guancha，jinnianmeionezuimingxiandedongzuozhiyishifabuleyifenzhibodianshangzhilianglanpishu，tongpianqiangdiaozhibodianshangde“pinzhi”yuzhongdiandazaoneirongxiangzhibojian，biaomingleyaoyujinnianpinpintafangdezhubo“gexi”。tamenyishidao，dangxiazheipixiaofeizhelailijiaqizheilimaidebushidijiachanpin，gengbushizhibojianzhuamadebiaoyan。

lingyoujiejinmeionerenshicheng，congzhibojian、zongyijiemushuchuneirong，zhihoudagailvshimeionedezhongdianfangxiang。

yigebukefourendeshishishi，duilijiaqilaishuo，jinguanyijingtuopinleixujiu，danmeizhuangpinleirengshiqizuishanzhang、zuijuxiyinlidepinlei。zaidacujiedianwai，ruhetongguodazaoneirong，laibaochizhibojianduimeizhuangpinpai、xiaofeizhedexiyinli，shibaozhulijiaqi“yige”diweidebiyaotiaojian。

zhengruxuduoxingyerenshisuoyan，xuanzetabingfeishizuiwanmeidejietisilu，danqueshidangxiazuiyoukenengkandejianchengxiaodefangfa。zhishi，dangjiruhuopanhou，gaizenmehelibeihuo，zuizhongzuodaojianshaozhixiaokucun，bingliyonghaochaotouzhubodaidonghouxufugou，duimeizhuangpinpaieryan，doushiyaotiqiansikaodewenti。

zhishaoxianzai，lijiaqixuyaomeizhuangpinpai，meizhuangpinpaiyelibukailijiaqi，baotuanqunuanhuoshibiciduguozheigedongtiandezuihaoxuanze。

应采访者要求，文中林悦、凯西为化名