wen｜caijingtianxiaweekly linbei

bianji | libuqing

01、销售额增长97%

zaizuiwunengweilidenianji，yushangzuixiangyongyoudedongxi。zheishiyiweisichuandaernvshengdekunrao。

jinnian10yue，lifeijizijizhidinglezanqianjihua，mubiaoshiquankuannaxiamiu miuyikuanshoujia23300yuandeyangpixiaohaoshoutibao。

suiranmeiyueyou6500yuanshenghuofeidelifei，zaipubianyueshenghuofei2000yuanzuoyoudedaxueshengquntizhong，beikanzuo“jialiyoukuang”defuren。dancongdayikaishi，bianchenmiyumiu miudelifei，rengrangandaozijikewangqiewuli。

lifeijizijizhidingdejihuashi，meigeyuecunxia5000yuanshenghuofei。congjinnian10yue，daomingnian4yue，maixiazheigebaosongjizijidangzuoshengriliwu。

图源Miu Miu官网

zailifeijiluzijizanqianmaibaodetiezixia，xuduorenquanjielifei：“daxuejieduan，xuyaozanqianhenjiuhaishibiemaile，biebenzheshechipin。”danxianglifeizheiyang，beimiu miudeduteqizhizhengfudenvxinghaiyouhenduo。

zuoweipradajituanqixiadenianqingzipinpai，miu miuyizhibeishiwei“qianjin”dedaimingci。youduanzidiaokan，“dangnihaizaitanlunyuexinduoshaocainengmaideqimiu miu，shuomingnibushimiu miuxiangyaodexiaofeirenqun”。

guoqixuanzaimoufangdichangongsidanrenzixunguwen，nianxinzai50wan~100wanyuanzhijian，daxuebiyehou，guoqixuancengxianhoujinru《vogue》he《nanrenzhuang》shixi。taxiang《caijingtianxia》biaoshi，jinniangoumailejin20wanyuandemiu miu。

guoqixuandediyigemiu miushidaxueshiqiqufaguolvyougourudeyangpizhezhoubao，taweicihuale1wanduoyuan。dangshi，tajuedexiangbiqixiangnaier、lv，miu miudejiagesuannengjieshou，dan“henduokuanshipingpingwuqi，zhiyoudaredezhezhoubaohaisuanyouliangdian”。

guoqixuanduimiu miuyinxiangdezhuanzhelaizi2023nian，80suiyinghouwuyanshuweimiu miupaisheleshishangdapian，qiudongdaxiuyouyaoqingleqizhibufandetuixiuyishengtanhuilanshangtaizouxiu，miu miuzaidazhongshiyelidehaoganduzhixianshangsheng。

miu miuzuichuquandeyigeduanzishi，“maixiangnaierdebuyidingyouqian，maimiu miudecaishizhenyouqian”。guoqixuandetaiduwanmeidiquanshilezheigeduanzidezhenshixing。

biqixiangnaier、aimashidengchangnianliuzhuanzaizhuanjuheguzhediandeshepaimen，miu miuzaizhuanjuzhiwaidedierjiaoyichangsuoshi“aotelaisi”。zaizheili，guojidemiu miuchangyi“daguzhe”dezitaichuxian，beitucao“yidianyebubaozhi”。

ciwai，miu miudelogoyebuhuixiangqitashechipinneiyang，zuodebiaoshimingxian。ershiyaoyongdutededapeiheqizhixuanshi，zheijiushimiu miu。

“womaidongxideshihou，buhuikaolvdaobaobubaozhi，zhikanshibushihe，xibuxihuan”，guoqixuanshaoxianfanersai。“tabenzhishangshiyigeshangpindeshuxing，kaolvtabaozhihaishibianzhi，neidengyukanzhongtadejinrongshuxing，jiushiqulenixihuantadeyiyi”。

duimiu miuzhujianshangtoudeta，shenzhihaihuijiajiaqingrencongribendaigouremenxiukuan。

qunianxiatian，guoqixuankanzhongleyitaoleisiqunzihejiakewaitaodexiukuan，yuanjia2wanduoyuandeshangyi，tahualejin4wanyuandaigou，“woquskp（beijingzhuminggaoduanshangchang）shi，salesdoujingdaile，wenwozenmemaidaode”。

zaimiu miuyongdundezhichixia，quanqiushishangpinpailystzhishuzhong，jinniansangejidu，miu miuliangdudengding。disanjidu，miu miudequanqiusousuoliangtongbizengzhang30%，zhongxinchaoyueloeweduohuilediyidebaozuo。

图源Lyst官网

miu miuderenqiyefankuizailemugongsipradajituandecaibaozhong。jinnianqiansanjidu，miu miuxiaoshouedadao8.54yiouyuan，tongbizengzhang97%，zhandaopradajituanxiaoshouede25%，binglianxusangejiduchaoyuepradapinpai、chengweijituanzengzhangsududiyi。

zaimiu miugaozengzhanglvdedaidongxia，pradajituanjinnianqiansanjidujingshouru38.3yiouyuan，tongbizengzhang18%。erqitasandashechipinjituan，chuleaimashibaochizengzhang，lvmhjituanhekaiyunjituandeshourudouyousuoxiahua。

liangzhengquanyanjiubaogaocheng，miu miudezhuoyuezengzhangzhengshipradayejichaoyuqidezhuyaoyuanyin。

02、从“精致土”变身叛逆代表

zaidongzhe“bainianlishi”deshechipinxingyezhong，miu miudechuanglishijianbingbuzhang。1993nian，prada chuangshiren mario prada desunnvmiuccia prada，yizijidexiaomingchuanglilemiu miu。

buguohenzhangyiduanshijianli，miu miudeyejibingbulixiang。2013nianzhi2021nian，miu miuxiaoshouedoubuzu5yiouyuan，2021nianxiaoshouegengjinyou3.47yiouyuan。

zaoqidemiu miujidazhongliuxiadeyinxiangshi“jingzhitu”，fenggeyitianmeishaonvqizhiweizhu。erxianzai，miu miuyijingwanquansidiaolezheigebiaoqian，yaoshenyibianchengwei“gexing”dedaibiao。

miu miushizenmezuodaode？

shishangchanyedulifenxishi、shanghailiangqipinpaiguanliyouxiangongsichuangshirenchengweixiongxiang《caijingtianxia》biaoshi，miu miude“fanhong”qiezhonglejinnianlaierdaifurenjiecengdexiaofeixihao，cong“jingdian”zouxiang“qingkuai”。duitamenlaishuo，zheishiyizhongshenghuofangshidezaishenghua。

jinliangnian，shechipinxingyekaishichengxianchuduoyuanhua、gexinghuaqushi，suizhedapaipingtishichangchuxian，gengduoxinpinpai、erxianpinpaihuodelejihui。

qizhong，miu miujiyoupradajituan“wei”ziyuan，dingjiayegengjiediqi。genjuguanwangshoujia，miu miudechengyishoujiacong5000yuan~40000yuanbudeng，baoleishoujiadagaizai7000yuan~30000yuanqujian，xielvshoujiazai2000yuan~22000yuanqujian。

zaicijichushang，miu miuhenkuaijiubaqianbaosuoshuide“zhongchan”mennaxiale。

guoqixuanbiaoshi，henduoduanzilibamiu miuhexiangnaierxiangbi，danmiu miudejiageyuanburuxiangnaiergui，“xiangnaieryijianjiuyaosansiwan，womaidemiu miuzuiguiyijianyecaisanwanduo，talianggenbenbushiyigecengcide”。

zaishechipinsanjutouyijingzhanwenhexinshichangdedangxia，miu miuhainengzhaozhunzijidesaidaotuwei，yedeyiyumiuccia pradadadaokuofudegaige。

miuccia pradayongyoumilandaxuezhengzhixueboshixuewei，shigeshizude“zhishifenzi”。

ciqian，miuccia pradazhuyaochengdanjituanzhupinpaipradadesheji，danzi2020nianqi，tazhubujiangpradadeshejijiaoyoubilishishejishiraf simonsfuze，zijigengjujiaoyumiu miu。tongshi，zhimingzaoxingshilotta volkovadejiaruyedailailexinxianxueye。

zheizhihou，miu miukaishizaishaonvfenggezhongjiaruzhishifenzi、balei、pannideyuansu，luqishangyi、xiaofubaizhequn、poloshanhebiaozhixingdexueyuanfengzhangwa，bingdengshangxiutai。

《2024nianqinglixiaofeibaipishu》zhichu，shehuidahuanjingbuqueding，xiandaigongzuo“luosidinghua”，getishixianjiazhinandushengji，nianqingrenjiazhigancongzhuiqiuchenggongxuezhuanxiangjingyingrichangxiaoshenghuo，yiwanjiaxintaikaiqiduoxianmoshi，zhuiqiu“ziyougan”he“shengmingli”。

duinianqingxiaofeiquntilaishuo，shiyongzhuyibuzaishixiaofeideweiyizhunsheng，shenzhigengyuanyiweiqingxujiazhifuchuyijia。

guoqixuanyebiaoshi，“miu miukansirengshishaonvfeng，danbeihougengduochengxiandeshixianmingdegexinghejingshenzhuangtai，erbushinidenianlinghuoyanzhi”。

jinliangnian，miu miuxuduodaredanpindoutongguo“buzouxunchanglu”dechuangyichuquan，biruchangbeidangzuo“xiayishizong”dechaoduanqun，“rongyizheliang”debanjieshangyihe“neikuwaichuan”dezuanshineikudeng。

shanzhangchuangzaoxijingdanpindemiu miu，zaiyizhongshepaizhonggegeburu，yi“yuegui”“panni”“tiaotuo”defengge，yanyiledangxianianqingren“chouxiang”dejingshenzhuangtai。

zaiguoqixuankanlai，lafulaolunfenggengpianxiangmeishi、laoqian，xiaoxiangfengzegengpianmingyuan、youya，ermiu miudebutongzhichujiuzaiyugexinghepanni。

guoqixuancengmaiguoxuduoxiangnaierdechengyi，tamingxianganjuedaochuanxiangnaierxuyaozhuzhongchanghe。ermiu miudefenggegengpianrichang，yougengduoyanghuadedanpin，keyiziyoupailiezuhe，jikeyichengxiansongchigan，yekeyiyingzaochujingzhigan，“zuizhongyaodeshinengtuxiangexing”。

“doujingtongchuanmiu miujiuyidianyebuweihe，danchuanxiangnaierjiuhuiyoudianqiguai”，guoqixuanbiaoshi。“baokuowohenxihuandemingxingwuqianyu、liujialingdouyouchuanmiu miu，buguanshinagenianlingduanderenqun，chuanmiu miudounengchuanchuzijidefengge。”

03、“Miu系平替”风靡

miu miuzaizhongchanquanzidebaohuo，yeyijingchuandaodaolegengweiguangfandedazhongquanceng，miu miubuzaijinjindaibiaopinpaiming，gengshichengweiyizhongfenggexingrong，“miulimiuqi”“miu miufengchuanda”yezaixiaohongshuxijuanchuandajie。

xiaohongshubozhujucee，benzhishihulianwangtiyanshejishi，yinianqiantakaishichengweichuandabozhu，zhuyaozuo“miuxipingti”chuandafenxiangdeneirong，rujinzaixiaohongshushangyongyou5700duomingfensi。

zhanghaogangqibushi，juceechangshiguogezhongchuandafenggeneirong，danzhiyou“miuxipingti”chuandazheipianbijibaole。

zaizuo“miuxi”chuandaneirongzhiqian，juceedefensishubudao600ren，buguo10geyueshijian，fensishuyiranfanle10bei，bingweitadailaileyidingdeshouru。“chuandabozhuyaoyoumingquedefengge，caihuibeijizhu。”

juceexiang《caijingtianxia》biaoshi，muqiantayijingjiedaojin30ge“miuxipingti”pinpaideshangdan，pingjunjiagezai500yuanzuoyou。

“xihuanmiu miufengdenvhaichulezhuizhuchaoliuzhiwai，yezaizhuizhupinpaisuobiaodadeganjue，zhuizhuxiangyaochengweideziji”，juceebiaoshi。“miu miudehexinxiaofeinianlingcengzai25~34sui，xiaofeinenglibuyidinggougao，zhiyaonengbafenggejiayuhao，xuanzepingtiyemeishenmewenti。”

duiyudazhongjiecenglaishuo，miu miudegaojiaqueshishi“zhenqianjin”cainengmaideqi。zheiyecuishengchulexuduomiu miufengdepingtifushi，yijibuzixikanfaxianbulededaoban“min min”。

cengzaishanghaimouguanggaogongsigongzuoguode95hounvhailinjia，diyicizhuyidaomiu miudezhuanbian，shizai2022niandemiu miuchunxiashizhuangxiushang。linjiajingqidifaxianmiu miuxuduoqunzhuangwanquanbaituoleyiwangde“keaifeng”，querdaizhidediyaominiqun、baizhequn、luqiqundengdougengjiadeqiaopi、qianwei，yuzhongbutongqiejiangushaonvdehuopogan。

zuoweimeitianchurushanghaifanhuadiduandejingzhidagongren，linjiajiangmiu miuzongjiewei“shaonvsongchigan”。“jiushixihuantazhanxianchulaidesuixinsuoyu、wuyouwulv，buyongcaoxinshenghuoyalideganjue。”

yueshuaxiaohongshu，linjiagouwuchelidemiu miuyuansuyuelaiyueduo。kexi，qianbaodeganbiechengdupeibushangtariyipengzhangdegoumaiyuwang。“xiangnaiermaibuqi，jiumaixiaoxiangfeng，miu miumaibuqi，jiumaimiu miufeng”，zheishilinjiaduishechipinpingtidetaidu。

linjiatongji，guoquyinianli，tagoumaileshiduojianmiu miufengfushi，huafeile3000yuanzuoyou。“suoyoudewenhuadoushizheimechuandaode，zhongcengjiejimofangshangceng，pingminmofangzhongceng，dahurenjialiuxingmiu miu，dazhongjiuliuxingmiu miufeng。”linjiashuo。

“shechipinshuobaile，maideshinidexurongxin” ，guoqixuankandehentongtou，“dajiayuanyimaita，chuleduishangpinbenshendexiai，gengduodeshiduizheigepinpaidaibiaodejiazhiderending”。

chengweixiongrenwei，liuxingqushibenzhishangshicongjinzitajiandexiaoquanzizouxiangyaobudedaquanzi，zuihouzouxiangdazhong，“yiqianzheigechuandaodeguochengkenengyaojinglisanwunian，xianzaiyinianjiukeyiwancheng”。

“liuxingzhisuoyixingcheng，jiushiyinweidajiadouzaizuoyiyangdeshi。miu miuzuole，zaraheyouyikuyezuo，daozuihoubaipaiyezaizuo，zheijiudaibiaomiu miudefenggezhenzhengliuxingqilaile。”

danchengweixiongyezhichu，“liuxingshiyoushengmingzhouqide，dangliuxingdefenggechuandaodaodazhongjieceng，jiuyijingzhaqulepinpaideshengyujiazhi。buguokenengguojinian，tayouhuizhongxinliuxingqilai，neishidajiajiujiaota‘jingdiankuan’le”。