文｜深响 林之柏

2024nianxingzhiweisheng，kuaishishangxingyedejuliebiangerengzaijixu。

chengyaduoshidejigelaopaikuaishishangjutouxiangjifusu——12yue11ri，zaramugongsiinditexjituangongbusanjidubao，qiansanjiduzongyingshoutongbizengzhang7.1%zhi274yiouyuan，jinglirunzetongbizengzhang8.5%zhi44yiouyuan，duoxiangjingyingzhibiaojunyousuogaishan。youyikumugongsi2024cainiannianbaoyebufaliangdian，yingshoutongbizengzhang12.2%zhi3.1wanyiriyuan，yingyelirungengshitongbidazhang31.4%zhi5009yiriyuan。

shein、temudengdianshangpingtaiyerengranxiongmeng。waimeithe informationdeshujuxianshi，jinnianshangbanniansheinzongshouru180yimeiyuan，tongbizengzhang23%。suiranshouruzengsuyousuofanghuan，danshichangguimorengranburongxiaoqu。

zheijinian，kuaishishangxingyepinfanchuanchuhuaixiaoxi，guandian、huanxue、gaobiehuangjinshidai。jingliletongkudeqifuhou，kuaishishangsihumiwusanjin，jieranbutongdeliangtiaolujingqingxidibaizaimianqian——yaomezhangjiazougaoduan；yaomejizhixingjiabi。

追求利润，巨头杀向高端市场

qushiyijingmingxian——youyiku、zara、h&mweishoudelaopaikuaishishangjutou，zhengzaigaoduanhuazheitiaolushangzuodaliangdebuju。

yifangmian，diaozhengkaidiancelve，guanbibiaozhundian、xiaodian，zengkaidaxingqijiandian，jianligaoduanpinpaixingxiang。

zhongsuozhouzhi，zara、youyiku、h&m、gapdengpinpaikaoxianxiafajia，zhidaomuqian，qixianxiaqudaoxiaoshouzhanbirengyuangaoyuxianshang。xianxiabujinshitamendeyejizhizhu，gengshipinpaidemenmian，shizhanxianxinxingxiangdezhongyaoqudao。congmendiankaishiwanggaoduangaizao，wuyishizuihelidexuanze。

caibaoxianshi，jiezhijinniansanjidumo，zaramugongsiinditexjituanzaiquanqiuyongyou5659jiamendian，tongbijianshao63jia，qizhongzarapinpaidemendiantongbijianshao36jiazhi1791jia。danzaimendianshujianshaodeqingkuangxia，mendianzongmianjihepingjunmianjiquebaochizengzhang。2023cainianmo，inditexmendianpingjunmianjizedadaolishizuigaode801pingfangmi。zuixincaibaozezhichu，jituandemubiaoshizai2024-2026nianqijian，jiangshitidianmianjimeiniantigaoyue5%。

beichangshuaiduoniandegapyecongquniankaishijiasudiaozhengkaidiancelve。yizhongguoshichangweili，jinnianerjidu，gapxinkai9jiamendian，chuleshanghai、guangzhoudengyixianchengshiwai，yebujuleduogexinyixianchengshi。

congmendianxuanzhilaikan，chengshiremenshangquan、gaodanggouwuzhongxindehuangjinpuweishigapdexintouhao，yizaisuodingchengshizhongchan、bailingdengyouzhikehu，biruxinjinzhudeguizhoufangyuanhuihaitunguangchang、shenyangdayuechengdeng。gapyujijinnianquannianzaizhongguoxinkai50+jiamendian，xindianpingjunmianjizedadao500-600pingfangmi，zhuanzhuyudadianmoshi。

qitajigepinpaiyeyouzhexiangsidekaidiancelve：youyikuzaijinnian11yuexuanbule2025cainianquanxincelve，dangzhongmingquezhichuyidaxing、youzhididuanmendiantidaixiaoguimo、dilirunmendian。h&myezaiouzhou、meiguo、zhongguodengzhongdianshichangzhuajinluozi，kaichuduojiadaxingqijiandian。zaizhongguo，jinnianyijiduyiyouchengdouheshenghui、shaoxingyintaicheng、beijingyuehuiguangchangdengdimendiankaiye；5yue，weiyushanghaihuangjinshangquannanjingdongludeh&mqijiandianhuanxinliangxiang，jituandazhonghuaquzongcaisiyideyeqinzidaochangzhantai。

chulezheixielaowanjia，zhongguobentuxinruipinpaiurban revivo（xiawenjianchengur）zaikaidianfangmianyepoyouxinde。

zaichuangshirenlimingguangkanlai，“mendianjiushizuihaodeguanggao”。yinweimendianshizhijielianjiepinpaiyuxiaofeizhedechangsuo，xiaofeizheduipinpaidediyiyinxiangherenzhi，henduoshihouyeshijianlizaimendianjichushangde。

qubieyuchuantongkuaishishangpinpaiqianpianyilvdemendiansheji，urdeqijiandianbujinhuigenjusuozaichengshi、shangquandeteselaishejimendian，gengyibutongdezhushijuesediao、chenlie、kongjianbuju，dazaochayihuachangjing。

erzaixuanzhishang，urjujiaochengshihexinshangquan，dianmianyeshiyuekaiyueda。qidiyijiaqijiandianjiuxuanzaileguangzhourenqizuiwangshengdezhengjiaguangchang，mianjigaoda1000pingfangmi；tongyangweiyuguangzhoutiyuxilushangquandeguangshengqijiandianmianjigengshidadao4400pingfangmi，shiurquanqiuzuidademendian。

lingyifangmian，gedapinpaiyezaizhongsujiagetixi，zhuyaoshouduanshijiangdizhekoulidu（shenzhiquxiaozhekou）hedafanweizhangjia。

kuaishishangpinpaidezhangjiayuanyinbuwaihuyuancailiao、wuliuchengbenshangshenghetongzhangyalidenglaowenti。buguochukaizheixiehongguanyinsu，youyiku、zaramenbingmeiyoutingxiazhangjiadebufa，erqiechulexianyouchanpinxianzhiwai，haituichulegengduogaoduanchanpinxian。

zuijinjinian，youyiku、h&m、zaradegaodanjialianmingxilieshangxinpinlvhezhanbidouyousuotigao。qizhong，zhuruh&mhefaguoshejishipinpairabannelianmingxilie、youyikuhefenlanshejishipinpaimarimekkodelianmingxiliedouqudebuxiaoredu。

zhiyuzhekoulidudesuoshui，zaiyouyiku、gap、zarashenshangdoutixiandexiangdangtuchu。zaishejiaopingtaishang，youguanshangshupinpaizhekoujianshaodetucaotieziyuelaiyueduo。zhenduizara，youxiaofeizhebaoyuanapphexiaochengxudedazhexinxiyuelaiyueshao，buhuoshijianyebiandebuqueding，yijinghennanqiangdaoremendazheshangpinle。baozundianshanggengshizaijinnianerjiducaibaozhongzhijiebiaoming，zicongqunian2yuewanchengduigapdazhonghuaquyewudeshougouhou，yizhizhiliyubaituoyiwangzhangqiyilaizhekoucuxiaodeqingkuang。

liangdaguanjiancelvediaozhengxia，kuaishishangpinpaimendelirunshuipingrouyankejiandishangsheng。

youyiku、zaradeqingkuangshangwenyiyoujieshaobuzaizhuishu，gapsuiranyingshouzengzhangyijiuhuanman，danlirunduandejinbuyoumugongdu。jinniansanjidu，gapjinglirun2.74yimeiyuan，tongbidazhang25.7%。

chuleyanqiandelirun，wanggaoduanfangxiangfazhankeyichendianpinpaidiaoxing，baituoguyouxingxiang，weiweilaichuangzaogengduokeneng。yidangaoduanxingxianglizhule，zhangjiadezulijiuhuijianshao，bingxingchengzhangjia-lirunzengzhangdezhengxiangxunhuan。

raner，gaoduanhuazheitiaoluyebuhuiyifanfengshun。

qiyi，gaoduanshichangdejingzhengyehenjilie，xiangtongguogaoduanhuazhaodaodierchunmeiyouneimerongyi。youqixuyaozhuyideshi，zara、h&mmenbenjiubuquegaoduanzipinpai。yih&mweili，chulezhupinpaizhiwai，arket、& other storiesdenggaoduanzipinpaimuqianyechuyukuozhangqi，coszezhengdajujinjunzhongguoshichang，zaibeishangguangshendengyixianchengshikaisheduojiamendian。rujinzhupinpaiyezaiwanggaoduanfangxiangfazhan，bujinkenengfenboziyuan，gengyaotifangxingchengneihao。

qici，zhangjiahejianshaozhekoubiranhuizaochengbufenjiageminganxingkehudeliushi。youyikudecaibaojiuzhichu，jinnianqiansanjiduyueyou150jiamendiankeliuliangbuzu，bingtanchenmuqianzhengzaoshoupingjiafuzhuangpinpaidechongji。

bixuyaochengrendeshi，kuaishishangjutouzaidijiashichangdedipanchixuweisuo，jiyouzishendezhudongxuanze，yeyoubeidongdeyimian——juanjiage，tamenshijuanbuguodianshangde——zaiguoneijuanbuguotaotian、douyindianshangshangdebaipai/xiaopaishangjia，zaiguowaijuanbuguoshein、temu。

对抗内卷，差异化是最好出路

youyiku、zara、h&mtingjingaoduanshichang，tongguokaidadian、zhangjia、tuixinchanpinxianzhongsupinpaixingxiang；shein、temushengengxianshangqudao、pingongyinglianpinliuliangzuodaojizhidijia，liangzhonglujingdoumeiyoucuo。

danruguozaishengjihuoxiachendelushang，suoyourendoucaiquxiangsidecelve，zhuiqiuyiyangdemubiao，jingzhengdaozuihou，dajiajiuhuifaxiankeyifalidedianbingbuduo。weiraojiagewulunshishangzhanghaishixiajiang，douhennanheduishoulakaizhidechaju，jierxianruwuyiyideneijuan。

eryaobaituoneijuan，zuiyouxiaodefangfahaishizaixiangsizhongzhaobutong——jijianlizishendechayihuayoushi。

shouxian，wulunzougaoduanhaishidijialuxian，pinpaidouyingjiangzhuliuxiaofeiquntijinxinggengjingzhundehuafen，maodingzijidehexinkehuhuoxiaofeichangjing，dazaoyoubieyuqitajingpindepinpaixingxiang。

laizihanguodechuu，shizaiguoqujiniannishizengzhangdedianxinganli，qizhongyaoqushengmijuejiushichayihuadingwei。gaipinpaimiaozhundeshizshidainianqingxiaofeizhe，baokuoxueshengdang、churuzhichangdenianqingbailingdeng，youqishinvxingyonghu，zuituchudepinpaibiaoqianshiyige“ku”zi。

zaichanpinshejishang，chuuzunxuntianmei、gexingdengguanjianci，xihuancaiyongxianyandesecaihedutetuan，bingqiefeichangshanyurongheleisi、zhezhouhecixiudengqingliangyuansu。qifenggebizara、youyikugengqianwei，danyoubuzhiyubiaoxinliyi，jinengshiyingrichangtongqinhebangongchangjingdediaoxing，yenengmanzuyuehui、dakadezhezhuangxuqiu。

zaipinpaiyingxiaoshang，wulunshixianxiamendianhaishixianshangqudao，chuudouba“kula”、“gexinghua”、“ziyou”zheixieguanjianciguanchedaofangfangmianmian。mendianjibenyizhuayandelvseweizhusediao，qiangmianshanghuizhangtiedaliangchuandahaibao，wanmeiqiezhongrezhongzhuizhuchaoliuyouquefajingyandezshidaitongdian。zaixianshang，chuuzehezouku、lafenggedeyiren、mingxingpinfanhudong，jiezhumingrenxiaoyingyinliu，datoupinpaibiaoqian。

qici，pinpaixuyaobaituokuaishishangjiushi“maiyifu”dechenjiuguandian，tongguochanpin、fuwu、xiaofeichangjingdezuhequan，weixiaofeizhetigongyizhongdutedeshenghuofangshi。

chenjiduoshidemeiguokuaishishangpinpaiabercrombie &fitch（xiawenjianchenga&f）zaizuijinjiniankeweiniepanzhongsheng，jinnianyijiduyingshoutongbidazhang22%zhi10.21yimeiyuan，chuangxialishitongqixingao，guoquyiniangujialeijizhangfugengshigaoda271%。a& fnengdayingzheichangfanshenzhang，kaodeshi“shushi”zheigeguanjianci。

a&fshouxiyingxiaoguancarey collins krugcengbiaoshi，jingguoyiqingzhihou，zhenggeshijiedouqingxiangyugengshushi、fangsongdeshenghuofangshi。a&fjiyuduizheiyixiaofeixuqiudejingquedongcha，congchanpinsheji、mendianbujuhepinpaidazaofangmiangongtongfali，weiyonghutigongfanpuguizhen、shushizizaidexiaofeitiyan。

biruzaimendianshejishang，a&fpaoqileguowangdebiaozhundianmoshi，qixinyidaiqijiandiancaiyongsuoweide“getaway”linian，caiyongdaliangnuansediaomucai，jiayilvzhidianzhui，bingshezhikeyirangxiaofeizhexiuqidebatai，haijiangshiyijianshejichengleisijiudianfangjiandekuankuokongjian，sihaomeiyouchuantongshishangdianpudejincouganhehuashaogan，jirenyizhongbaorong、fangsongdeganjue。

erzaichanpinduan，a&fdechanpinbujinshifenzhuzhongxijie，biruqixiadehollisterpinpaizidaidadideduanqun，haihuigenjubutongguojia、diquxiaofeizhedetixinghechuanzhexiguanyindizhiyidiaozhengsheji，yiqiedouyiyonghudeshushiduweidaqianti。

disan，zaichanpinyongliaoheshiyongchangjingshang，pinpaiyekeyijinyibuxihua。youqishizhenduidangxianianqingxiaofeizheshifenzhongshideshiyongxing、gongnengxingxuqiu，bushaokuaishishangpinpaizhaodaolexinfalidian。

urqixiapinpai“benlai（benlai）”jiuzhudakeji+huanbaoshuangzhonglinian，tongguoxingnengkejihekechixuliyongmianliao，tuichuleyixiliebiyibankuaishishangfushigongnengxinggengqiang，youbichuantonggongnengfushigengjushejigandechanpin，rangxiaofeizhezaishiyonghehaokanzhijianzhaodaogenghaodepingheng。

birujinqifabude2024qiudongxinkuanchongfengyixilie，caiyongle“tefulongsanfang”jishu，zaimianliaobiaocenggouzhufenzipingzhang，yishixiangenghaodefangshui、fangyouwuxiaoguo。“rongyixilie”zeshiyongyuanhongwaixurejishu，kaoxishoubingzhuanhuaduanbonenglianglaigaishanbaonuanxiaoguo，bingneizhidaodiansi，jiejuejingdianwenti。

jinlaibushaokuaishishangpinsihuyibumanzuyuduixianyouchanpindexingneng、mianliaojinxingchuangxin，jinnianlaifenfenshaxiangyundongfushi、neiyidengsaidao，kewangjinyibudakaishichang。biruzaratuichulegaojiyundongfushipinpaiathleticz，h&mqixiadeshishangqingyundongzipinpai“h&m move”zai2023niankaishishezuhuaxuefulingyu。

erzheiyesuandeshangxingyedehaoxiaoxi，kuaishishangshichangbingmeiyouruchuanwenzhonglengque，jutouyehao，xinruiyeba，pinpaimendouzaiduikangzishenzhongli，tansuoxindechulu。