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新国潮大会丨『朱炳仁·铜』品牌创始人朱军岷:新国潮下的匠人品牌

7yue29ri,youshanghaibaoyejituan|jiemianxinwenzhubandeshoujie【xinguochaodahui】yuanmanluomu。『zhubingren·tong』pinpaichuangshirenzhujunminfabiaozhuzhiyanjiang《xinguochaoxiadejiangrenpinpai》。

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『朱炳仁·铜』品牌创始人朱军岷

shoujie【xinguochaodahui】yunfenghuixianchang,duoweijiabinyi“xinpinpai · laozihao”weihexinzhankailejingcaidefenxiang。yixiashi『zhubingren·tong』pinpaichuangshirenzhujunminzhuzhiyanjiang《xinguochaoxiadejiangrenpinpai》wenzishilu——

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suoyi,datongbenlaishiyigefeichangchangjiandezhiye,tongqishirichanglaobaixingyizhizaiyongdeyizhongqiwu,danshizaiguoqudeyiduanshijianliduancengle。zhongguodelaobaixingzaiyebuxiaofeitongqile,dangranyuanyinyouhenduo,wozheilijiubushuole。suoyizai2005niandeshihou,wotichuyigexiangfashi“rangtonghuijia”。weishenmewoyaotichuzheigegainian?yinwei(zhei)yeshiwomenjiazudechuancheng。womenshitongdiaojiyifeiwuzhiwenhuayichandechuanchengren,tongshiwomenyeshizhonghualaozihao“zhufutongyi”dechuanren,daowozheili(shi)diwudai。womenjiazuyizhishizuotongjiang,yizhishizuotongqi。dangshitongjiangzuodetongqijiushirichanglaobaixingsuoshiyongdeqiwu,neimewozaixiang,woshibushikeyizhongxinlaikaifayixiezheiyangdeqiwu,jidaolaobaixinglaishiyong。zaidangshiderenzhilimian,ruguoshirichangdeqiwu,tongchangjiushidajiakandaodezheixiepenzi、guozi,baokuoyixienuanshoulu,baokuonongcunliyongdeyixieguowanpiaopen。wokendingbunengzuozheixiedongxi,yinweizheixiedongxiliwomenrichangshenghuotaiyuanle,zheishiyixiechuantongdeqiwu。neimewomenzuoshenme?

zai2005nianwomenzuzhilehenduodekaifatuandui,kaishizaizhongguo,shenzhizaiguowaikaishikaocha。womenkaochalegezhonggeyangdewenchuangchanpin,baokuoriben、hanguo、ouzhou、meiguo。womenshejidaodegezhonggeyangdeshejichaoliu,birushuogongyefeng、jijianfeng、beioufeng、rihanfeng。womenzonghelesuoyoudeliuxingyuansu,kaishikaifachanpin。zheishi2005niandeshihouwomenzuodechanpin,xianzainiqukan,yidianwentiyemeiyou,birushuowomenzuomao,maomimengchong,zheixiexianzaifeichangzhiyuxi,duiba?womenzuodexishoupen,shiqudaiyuweishengjiandeyixiecipen,duiba?zheigejiao“xiaofeishengji”。womenbianshangzuolezhutai,duiba?zheigejiao“meihaoshenghuo”,keyiquxiangshouzhuguangwancan。chanpinmeiyouwenti,danshigenbenmaibudong。cong2005niankaishi,womenshengchandaliangdezheixiezuopin,danshimeiyourenhedeshichangfankuihexiaoshou。wobenrenyeshi(zai)jianchi,jianchidaole2014nian,huozheshuozai2013nianzuoyou。weishenmezai2005nianwomenkaishikaifachanpin,zhidao2013nianmanzhangdezheiduanshijiannei,womenyizhishichuyuyigekuisundezhuangtai,chuyuyigepeiqiandezhuangtai,chuyu“jiaohaobujiaozuo”deyigezhuangtai。yinweidangshiwoyeshichuangyezhe,hulveleyixiezuijibendeshangyeluoji。

birushuo,womenquzuowomendekequndehuaxiang,quzuowomendechanpindefenxi。zai2005niandeshihou,womenguojiazhenggexiaofeiderenqun,xiaofeidelinianhaimeiyoudaodaguanyuwenhuaxiaofei,guanyuchuantongwenhuaxiaofeidezheiyangyigedianshang。nikanwomendeshejiduiba?doumeiyouwenti,danshiwomendegoumairenqunhewomenbupipei,hezheixiechanpinbupipei。dangshi2005nianzhidao2013nianzuoyou,suoyouduitongyourenzhi、nenggouyougoumaili、yuanyilaimaitongderenjibenshangkeyishuoshi50suiyishang,shenzhishi60suiyishang。neimetamenduiwomentichulaisuoweidezheizhongjingzhideshishangdeshenghuoqishishimeiyouganjuede,tamenxihuandehaishichuantongwenhua,xihuandeshishouzuo。zheizaimanzhangdeshijiannei,womeiyouzongjiechulai,(zheixie)zongjieshiwohoumianzongjiede。suoyiwoshuo“chao”youmeiyou?“chao”shiyoude,danshiwomengandetaizaole。womencong2015nianjiukaishiganwenchuangde“chao”,ganfeiwuzhiwenhuayichanzoujinshenghuode“chao”,ganjueshaoweizaoleyidian。youqishiwomenkaifadezhenggechanpin,genwomendegoumairenqunqixubupipei。zheixiechanpinruguofangdaoxianzai,worenweishiyoushichangde,shishishangwomenxianzaihuiguolaiyouzaizuozheixiedongxi。danzai2013nianyiqian,zhenggexiaofeidexingshibingbushiwomenqiwangdezhenggeluoji,zhenggeshengtai。

neimedao2013nian,pengdaoyijianshenmeshiqing?wojuededuiwomenlaishuoyouliangge。yigeshidadeshidaibeijing,zaizheigeshijianqianhou,dangzhongyangtichule“sigezixin”,qizhongyoujiangdaolewenhuazixin。jiushizaizheigeshijianduankaishi,dajiajuedezhongguochuantongwenhuafeichangfeichangdebodajingshen,bingqiefeichangxiai,lairenshi、laichuangzao、laixiaofeishiyongzhongguochuantongwenhua。zhongguochuantongwenhuadewenhuazixin,yinggaishizaineigeshijiandianmanmandijianliqilaide。wozaiqianbujiucanjiayigejianzhuluntandeshihou,woyeshuoruguomeiyouwenhuazixin,womenxianzaishenghuozaichongmanluomazhudejianzhuli。dajiakeyixiangxiangzai10nianqian,15nianqian,shenzhi20nianqian,womensuoyoudehaozhaiyidingshioushideluomazhu。suoyixianzaiyouwenhuazixin,womenjiangzuozhongshi,shenzhixinzhongshi。neimezaizheigeshijiandianshang,zheishiyigedadeshidaibeijing,worenweizheijiushi“chao”,yigedachaokaishixiongyongdipuxiangwomenerlaile。neimeduiyuwomenzijiqiyebenshen,yeganghaoqiaqiaganshanglezheigechaotou。2013niandeshihou,womenfashengleyijianshijian,jiushidanjixiangyuanzhang,xianzaijiaoqianyuanzhang,churengugongbowuyuandeyuanzhang。tatichuyigelinian——“bagugongwenwudaihuijia”,yinweitayeshiyigebijiaozhuzhongwenchuangkaifaderen,dajiadouzhidao。neimetahewode“batongdaihuijia”,qishilinianshangshiyizhide。

weishenmeshuoyaobagugongwenhuadaihuijia,zhinengzuowenchuang?xianeryijian,yinweigugongdewenwunishidaibuhuijiade,nizhinengtongguowenchuangkaifa,bafuhangugongyuansudewenchuangchanpindaihuijia。taweishenmeyaotichuzheigexiangfa?qishizaihenduochanghewoyetichuzheiyangyigeguandian,yebuzhidaoshibushizhengque。worenwei2013nianshizhongguowenchuangdeyuannian。yinweizaizheigeshijianwangqian,womenbuzhidaowenchuangshishenme,womenbuzhidaowenchuanggaizuoshenme。suoyoudebowuguanwenchuang,suoyoudejingqudelvyoujinianpindoushiqianpianyilvde。dajiashuodeshineizhongdidangde、dizhide、liezhide,baokuodangshidegugongyeshizheiyangdeqingkuang。bingxiangtie、yaochikou、mingpianjia、shuqian、taiyangmaojiushizheixiedongxi,zheidongxishibushi(wenchuang)?zheixiedongxikendingshibufuhegugongduiyuwenchuangdexuqiu。erqiedangshiwomenbaodao,zhengchuyuwenchuangkaifadeyigegaofeng,tamenbaodaoshangmianyouhenduodewenchuangpinpai。xiangguoligugongbowuguan、falanci、liuligongfangdengtuichuledaliangde,keyishuodangshiwomenwensuoweiwendewenchuangchanpin,yechongjilezhenggezhongguodaludewenchuangxingye。neime2013nianshihou,danyuanzhangshangtaiyihou,tichu“bagugongwenhuadaihuijia”,jiuzhaodaolewofuqinzhubingrenxiansheng。tatichuwomengugongyaozuowenchuang,xiwangzhubingrendashilaicanyuwenchuangdekaifa。

bababazheigexiaoxichuandijiwodeshihou,xianzaikanqilai,woturanhaoxiangkaiqiaoyiyang。yuanlaiwomenhaikeyiquzuogugong,yuanlaiwomenhaiyougugongzheigejudadebaozang。dangran,woyuanlaikendingyeshiquguogugong,danshimeiganjue,meiwangzheifangmianquxiang。suoyiwojiugankuaiqulegugong,bazhenggewenwudoukanwan,huilaiyihouzaisisuo。ruguowomenyaozuogugongdewenchuang,womendaodigaizenmezuo?womendangshimianlindesuoyoudewenchuangchanpin,shigangcaiwoshuodeneixie“xiaodongxi”。wojuedegugongdaibiaodeshi“guojiadui”,gugongdewenwudaibiaodeshizhongguochuantongwenhuadedianfeng,shisuoyouchuantongwenhua、chuantonggongyi、chuantongmeixuedejidachengzhe。woyaozuodeyinggaishizhongqi,woyaozuodeyinggaishirangdajianenggouliuchuanxiaqude、chuanchengxiaqudewenchuangchanpin。dangshizheigelinianquedinghaoyihou,wojiukaishikaifa。zheigeshihou,womenzhenggezhongguodewenchuang,qishiyinglaileyige“ipshidai”,neimehoulaidajiadouhuifeichangduodiqutanlunipdeliliang。queshizai2013nian,2014niandeshihou,wo“zhuazhu”lezhenggegugongdedaip。womenkaishiquzhaogugongdeminghua、gugongzuidingjidewenwu、gugongdejianzhu、gugongdelishi,danshi,women(you)yigelinian,jiushiwomenjuebuzuowenwudefuzhi、fuke。

yinweidangshijihusuoyoudebowuguanzuodewenchuangchanpin,danfanshidayidiandetiliang,yidingshifuke、fuzhi。birushuowomenyouqingtongqi,womenfuzhigeqingtongqi,womenbuquzuozheigedongxi。womenzuodeshiwenchuang,yidingshizaiyuanyoudewenhuayuansudejichushangzuochuangzao,fuhedangdairendexuqiu。zheishiwomanzhangdewenchuangchanpinkaifadeyigejingyanjiaoxun,jiushinizuodedongxibushinizijixihuan,ershiyaorangxiaofeizheyoushiyongchangjing,rangnidejingzhunkehuyouyigeshiyongchangjing。womenjiyuzheiyangyigelinianquzuodeshiwenchuangdekaifa,suoyiwojuedewo“zhua”zhuledade“guochao”。zheige“guochao”shizhiguojiadechuantongwenhuadefusu、zhenxing,wenhuadezixin,zheishiyigedadeshidaibeijing,bingqiewozhuazhulegugongzheigedakaifa、dawenchuangshidai。suoyisuirangandeshizaole,danshihaozaiwojianchi,suoyijinrulesuoweide“ ipshidai”。neimewomenzuoshenme?womenzuoledaliangdegangcaishuode,gengugongyouguandewenchuangchanpin,erqiezuodeshizhongqi。birushuowomendezuidangjiade(chanpinshi)womendewuniu,dajiadouzhidaogugongyouyifutufeichangyoumingde,jiao《wuniutu》,tangdaideyifufeichangyoumingdehua(zuo)。

womenkandaozheifuhuayihoufeichangdejingyan,feichangdejingya,yuanlaiwomenzaitang(chao),1000duonianqiannenggouhuachuzheimexuxurushengdewutouniu,bingqiequequeshishidaibiaozhezhongguodechuantongjingshen。nikantabushixiangxifangdehuaerjieniuzheimezhangyang、zheimemanniu,tashifeichangruyade、fuzhongdelaohuangniu,shiruziniu。neimewomenbatafuzhichenglewutouxuxurushengdewutouniu,fangzaiyigeanjishang,bingqiejitaqugemingzijiaozuo“wufulinmen”,duiba?wutouniudaibiaolewugefuqi,wugeyuyi,tayuyifeichanghao。women(chule)zuolewutouniu,yezuole“qianlongbajun”。womendangshiqukansuoyoudeguanyuwenwufangmiande(ip),womenjiusuodingleqianlong。weishenmesuodingqianlong?zheigehenjiandan,wogangcaishuode“ipshidai”,qianlongshidaip,renrenzhidao。hao,neimetaxihuanshenme?women(jiu)quyanjiuqianlong,faxiantafeichangxihuanma,tayefeichangxihuanlu。neimema,taqinglangshininghuaguotade《bajuntu》,neimewomenbabapimazuochengbapixuxurushengdetongma,tiliangyehenda,feichangdadetongma。tongshiwomenyequkantadeluyuan,tazaixiangshandeluyuan。tazaigugongzhanghualide,xiang《caizhitu》,tagenluzaiyiqideneixietu。wojuedeluyeshizhongguorenfeichangxiaideyigedongwu,jixiangderuishou,womenjiukaifalehenduodeguanyuludeticai。

womenzheixiezhongqinachulaiyihou,danyuanzhangkandaohoufeichangdejingqi,tashuonizenmehuiyouzheimeduogugongdechanpin,yinweitabuzhidaoqishiwoshi“pingkong”zuochulaide。neimedangran,woshiyouyidingfengxiande,xianzaikanqilaizheiyinggaishiwowenchuangshengyadezuihouyibo,yinweiwomenyouyicitoule1600duowandeqidongzijinlaikaifagugongdewenchuangchanpin。gangcaiwojiangleqianmianbanianwoyizhimeiniandou(yi)1000wandesuduzaipeiqian,yijingpeibuqile,zheibaruguoshudehuakenengwojiubuwanle。danshiyunqihaihao,zheicidekaifashoudaoleshichangderenke。dangranzheigelimianyehenquzhe,womenzheixiechanpinnadaogugongdeshihou,meiyourenkanhao,suoyouderenbukanhao,jiushuonifengle,nizaigugongchaoguo100kuaidongxibuyaomai。dangshishi2014nian,yinweiwo2013niankaishikaifa,kaifalezhengzhengyinian。ranhou2014niandanyuanzhangbagugongzuihaodeyikuaidifang,jiaozuo“qianlonghuayuan”,rangwoquzuowenchuangchanpindezhanlan。dangranzhanlanshijishangshixiaoshou,danyuanzhangzaizheigeshangmianfeichangdekaifang,tarenweinijiushidongxiqueshihao,danshiniyidingyaomaidedong。niyidingyaoranglaobaixingnenggoutaoqianmaihuiqu,zhiyoumaihuiqucaishijiaozuo“bagugongwenhuadaihuijia”。wojuedewoxinlimeidi,dajiabukanhao,yinweichaoguo100kuaibuyaomai,gugongmeiyoukenengmai。

yinweiwoshidajiqianshenzhishangwandedongxi,duibudui?zenmekenengzailvyoujingdianmaishangwankuaiqiandedongxi,zheizhongmoshimeiyoujianliqilai,zheizhongshiyongchangjingdajiagenbenbunengxiangxiang。yinweiyuanlaimaideshishuqian,10kuaiqianyizhangdeshuqian,qianbihe、xiangpi、qianbi,maideshizheiyangdedongxi。danshiwomendezuopinqueshishoudaolehenhaoderenke,woyemeixiangdao,keyishuoshiyipaodaxiang。womenyeshishoujiajinrugugongdewailaipinpai,yinweiyuanlaigugongdekaifadoushineibuzaizuode。weishenmehuodedajiaderenke?wojuedeyoujigefangmian,yifangmiandajiazaizheigeshijiandianshang,xiaofeizheduiyuchuantongwenhuadexiaireqingfeichanggaozhang,tongshixiangyingdenenggoupipeizheizhongchuantongwenhuagaodudezheixiewenchuangchanpinshichangkongque。dajiayigunaoerdiquzuoneixiexiaowenju,lvyoujinianpin,meiyoubatazuoweiyigedeyishupindechuancheng,shenzhishishouzangpindechuanjia、chuanshidegainianlaidazao。dangranwomenyeyouhenhaodejiagetixilaiweihu,lairangdajiajuedezhendeshiwuyousuozhi,suoyiwomenzuolexiangdangduodewenchuangchanpin,womenjiujinrulegugong。

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suoyizheijiushiwomendangshiganshangle“chao”,womennenggoujinrugugongzuihexindejingqulimianzuozhanlan。qishiwomendangshizhendehenruoxiao。nishuopinpaiyehao,nishuoqiyeyehao,zhendeshifeichangweibuzudaodeyijiaqiye,yigegenbenmeiyoubapinpaizuochulaideqiye,danshiwomenyinweiyouzheiyangdejiyuanqiaohe,womenjinrulegugong,bingqieshoudaolexiaofeizhe、shoudaoleguanzhongdexiai。yinweiwomenzaichanpinkaifashangqueshifuheledangshideren,baokuoxianzaideren,duiyuzhongguochuantongwenhuadegaodu、dingjidexuqiu,zheigegenwo2005niandao2013nianshihouzuodewanquanbuyiyangle,tashihuidaolebenshenyingyoudegaodu。zheijiushidangshi,wogangcaijieshaode《wuniutu》,womenzuochenglewutouniu,(jiao)wufulinmen。zheigeshiguojiadeyixielingdaoceng,yinweitamenyaoxuanyixieguolideshihou,jiuhuidaowozheigedianlilai,keyidaodianlilaixuan。houlai,jiushiyinweidanyuanzhangdalikaifawenchuangdeshihou,quanguolaobaixingdouzhidao,gugongwenchuangzuodefeichanghao。neimeguojia,baokuogegebumen,tayouchufangdeshihou,tahenzirandejiuxiangdaozaigugonglaixuanjianliwu。zaigugongdeshihou,tamenyejingchanghuituijiandaowomendetongqiguan,yinweitongqidaibiaozhezhongqi,feichangyouxingzheitaowuniuyesuizhewomenguojialingdaorenyechufanglemeiguo,songjilemeiguodelingdaoren。

neimedangranhoulai,womenyouhenduodebaokuowomendelu,baokuowomendema,baokuozaigezhongdewaijiaochanghedouchuxianlewomendezheixiegugongyuansudewenchuangchanpin。suoyiwoyeshijuedehenyouxing,zhenggeguanyugugongwenchuangchanpindekaifashangmian,womenhuodeledadehuibao。baokuogangcaishuodewomenzaigugongqishinenggoukandaozheiwutoudadeniu,zheiyeshifeichangqitede。yinweizaigugongshimeiyoudangdaideyishujiadezuopinde,neimeweiyiyoudejiushizhubingrendashidezheiwutoudadeniu,zheiyeshidangshidanyuanzhangtichude。gugongsuoyoudewenwudoushibunengpeng、bunengmo,tashuonizuowutouniufangzaiguangchangshang,rangdajiakeyipaizhaoliunian,shenzhihaikeyichumo,zhijiedilaiganshou。suoyizheici,yinweiwomenzaigugongdewenchuangchanpindekaifashoudaoledajiadefeichangduoderenke,jiexialaiwomenjiukaishilesuoweideliansuopinpaideyunying。cong2014niankaishidaoxianzai,womenzaiquanguoyeyoujiangjin100jiademendian。womenyeshitongguole,birushuoxiangbuxingjie、xiangjichang、xiangyixiegaoduandeshangchang,zheiyangdebuju,rangchuantongdefeiyinenggouhuohua,nenggourangdajiaxiai。shouxiannishinenggouchumo,ninenggouganshou,ranhounikenenghuixiai,nikenenghuinahuijia,zheishiwomenzhenggepinpai(de)yigeluoji。

neimewogangcaishuodaole“chao”,zheigeshihoushizhenzhengdelaile。danshihenmingxian,ruguowomenqukanqiantangjiangchaodehua,jiaoyonglichaotou。haiyouyige,chaoqishiyeshihenweixiande,niyaoyonglichaotou,niyidingshiyaowusuoweiju,bingqiezishenyaoyouhenqiangdadenengli,nicainengjiayuchaoshui。jiushiwomenzaizhenggeguochengzhong,zhongjianruguoyouyigehuanjiemeiyouguoqudehua,kenengjiuganbushangzheiyibolangchao。neimeduiyuchuantongwenhua,ruhebatazhuanhuadaowenchuangdeguocheng,womenyezongjiechuleyixiejingyan。birushuo,womendechanpinyaotixianwomendeshougong,zheishiwoyizhizaiqiangdiaodeduiba?jiushinisuoyoudechanpin,nibushijixiehuadechanpin,yinweinishiyongtongzuode,nibushimaiwujinjian,nibushimaizilaishuilongtou,nibushimaimenbashou。womenshiyongtongzhuzuo,danshiwomenbushiwujinjian,womenbushigongyehuachanpin,womenshichuantongfeiyi,womenshiyaoshouzuo。neimeshouzuoyouhepiliang,hepinpaideyunying,baokuochengbendekongzhi、zhiliangdekongzhi,taqishishiyouyidianmaodunde。ruhebaozhengzhenggepicidezhiliangdetongyixing,bingqienenggourangyigedajianenggoujieshoudejiagelaigoumai,suoyiwomenyezuolefeichangduodezheizhongyanjiu。ruhetongguoyixieliushuixianlaijiangdichengben,ranhouzenmetongguozaiqiwushangdezheizhongshougongdehenjilaibiaoxianjiangrenduiyuzheizhongqiwudelijie。zaizheigefangmiandezheizhongjiehe,worenweihaishiqudelechenggongde。

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birushuowomenzheigeipyeshibijiaolihai,zheishiyigesonghuizongde“ruihe”,womenzuolezhengtaochahu,baokuowotaishangdechahu。zheiyeshiwomendewanghongchanpin,yizhiyizhizaihuojiang,huolehaoduodedajiangdeyigedanpin。zheiyeshituolewomensonghuizongdefu,tuolezheimedingjide,dingliudezheifuminghua《ruihetu》defuqi,daidonglewomenzhenggexiaofei。baokuoxianzaizheilikandaodeshiwomenhe《guojiabaozang》laihezuode,jiushiwozheilidezheitoushenlu“jiuselu”。gen《guojiabaozang》dunhuangipdejiehe,womenzuoledaliangdeludeticai,yeshishoudaolehenhaodehuanying。yinweiwobenrengangcaijieshaole,wotongshiyeshizhejiangshengdegongyimeishudashi,yeshifeiyichuanchengren,neimebenshenzaijiyishangshiyaoyouyidingdezhuiqiu,yaoyouyidingdechuangzao。zheiyeshiwoyizhizainulizaiyanjiudeyigeketi,jiushichuantongjiyiruhehuohua、ruhexianjie、ruhegenjin?womenduiyuwenhuadexuqiu,guochaoyehao,chuantongwenhuayehao,yuelaiyuewanggaoji,wangshendu(de)fangxiangfazhan,zheigeshidajiakeyilijiede。gangkaishidajiakenenghaishirenshibushen,chanpinkenengbijiaoyouzhi,cengcikenenghaimeiyoumanmantisheng。

danshizheige“chao”gualekuai10nianle,neimexiaofeizheduiyutongyangshi“guochao”,taduiyuzheizhongjiyideyaoqiu,duiyubiaoxiandeyaoqiu,shiyuelaiyuegao,tadeyanjieyeshiyuelaiyuekuanguang。zheigeshihounichuantongdejiyiruguomoshouchenggui,suirannishilaojiyi,kenengbiandezuihouyaolaibaohuni。yinweinigenbushangxiandairendexuqiu,youqishigenbushangxiandairenshenmei。laodejiyiruhehexiandaideyishu,zenmebatajieheqilai,suoyizheilizuoleyidiansikaogendajiafenxiang。zheishiwozuijinzuodeyixiezuopin。yinweiwozaihangzhou,zaisongyundefayuandi,songyundemimandi,womenhangzhoubiandidoushisongwenhua。neimesongwenhualimiandezheixieshanshanshuishui,songhuashizhongguohuadeyigedianfeng。ruheyongtong,ruheyongchuantongdejiyilaibiaoxianchusonghualimiandezhongguoshanshuideqiyun。jidajiazaikanyixia,zuijindewozijibenrendeyixiechuangzuodelinian,zheijiushizaichuantongdejifashangdeyixietisheng。chuantongdediaoketashimeiyoubanfabazheizhongqiyun、bazheizhongchouxiang、bashengdonggannenggouzuochulai。suoyigangcaishuodaole,suiranshichuantongjiyi,danhaishiyaoyushijujin,haishiyaohedangxiadexuqiu,dangxiadewenhuachuangzaobata(men)zuoyigehenhaodejiehe。

haode,wojiujiangdaozheili,xiexiedajia。

感谢本次论坛机构支持奥纬咨询、官方贵宾伴手礼朱炳仁·铜。

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新国潮大会丨『朱炳仁·铜』品牌创始人朱军岷:新国潮下的匠人品牌

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bababazheigexiaoxichuandijiwodeshihou,xianzaikanqilai,woturanhaoxiangkaiqiaoyiyang。yuanlaiwomenhaikeyiquzuogugong,yuanlaiwomenhaiyougugongzheigejudadebaozang。dangran,woyuanlaikendingyeshiquguogugong,danshimeiganjue,meiwangzheifangmianquxiang。suoyiwojiugankuaiqulegugong,bazhenggewenwudoukanwan,huilaiyihouzaisisuo。ruguowomenyaozuogugongdewenchuang,womendaodigaizenmezuo?womendangshimianlindesuoyoudewenchuangchanpin,shigangcaiwoshuodeneixie“xiaodongxi”。wojuedegugongdaibiaodeshi“guojiadui”,gugongdewenwudaibiaodeshizhongguochuantongwenhuadedianfeng,shisuoyouchuantongwenhua、chuantonggongyi、chuantongmeixuedejidachengzhe。woyaozuodeyinggaishizhongqi,woyaozuodeyinggaishirangdajianenggouliuchuanxiaqude、chuanchengxiaqudewenchuangchanpin。dangshizheigelinianquedinghaoyihou,wojiukaishikaifa。zheigeshihou,womenzhenggezhongguodewenchuang,qishiyinglaileyige“ipshidai”,neimehoulaidajiadouhuifeichangduodiqutanlunipdeliliang。queshizai2013nian,2014niandeshihou,wo“zhuazhu”lezhenggegugongdedaip。womenkaishiquzhaogugongdeminghua、gugongzuidingjidewenwu、gugongdejianzhu、gugongdelishi,danshi,women(you)yigelinian,jiushiwomenjuebuzuowenwudefuzhi、fuke。

yinweidangshijihusuoyoudebowuguanzuodewenchuangchanpin,danfanshidayidiandetiliang,yidingshifuke、fuzhi。birushuowomenyouqingtongqi,womenfuzhigeqingtongqi,womenbuquzuozheigedongxi。womenzuodeshiwenchuang,yidingshizaiyuanyoudewenhuayuansudejichushangzuochuangzao,fuhedangdairendexuqiu。zheishiwomanzhangdewenchuangchanpinkaifadeyigejingyanjiaoxun,jiushinizuodedongxibushinizijixihuan,ershiyaorangxiaofeizheyoushiyongchangjing,rangnidejingzhunkehuyouyigeshiyongchangjing。womenjiyuzheiyangyigelinianquzuodeshiwenchuangdekaifa,suoyiwojuedewo“zhua”zhuledade“guochao”。zheige“guochao”shizhiguojiadechuantongwenhuadefusu、zhenxing,wenhuadezixin,zheishiyigedadeshidaibeijing,bingqiewozhuazhulegugongzheigedakaifa、dawenchuangshidai。suoyisuirangandeshizaole,danshihaozaiwojianchi,suoyijinrulesuoweide“ ipshidai”。neimewomenzuoshenme?womenzuoledaliangdegangcaishuode,gengugongyouguandewenchuangchanpin,erqiezuodeshizhongqi。birushuowomendezuidangjiade(chanpinshi)womendewuniu,dajiadouzhidaogugongyouyifutufeichangyoumingde,jiao《wuniutu》,tangdaideyifufeichangyoumingdehua(zuo)。

womenkandaozheifuhuayihoufeichangdejingyan,feichangdejingya,yuanlaiwomenzaitang(chao),1000duonianqiannenggouhuachuzheimexuxurushengdewutouniu,bingqiequequeshishidaibiaozhezhongguodechuantongjingshen。nikantabushixiangxifangdehuaerjieniuzheimezhangyang、zheimemanniu,tashifeichangruyade、fuzhongdelaohuangniu,shiruziniu。neimewomenbatafuzhichenglewutouxuxurushengdewutouniu,fangzaiyigeanjishang,bingqiejitaqugemingzijiaozuo“wufulinmen”,duiba?wutouniudaibiaolewugefuqi,wugeyuyi,tayuyifeichanghao。women(chule)zuolewutouniu,yezuole“qianlongbajun”。womendangshiqukansuoyoudeguanyuwenwufangmiande(ip),womenjiusuodingleqianlong。weishenmesuodingqianlong?zheigehenjiandan,wogangcaishuode“ipshidai”,qianlongshidaip,renrenzhidao。hao,neimetaxihuanshenme?women(jiu)quyanjiuqianlong,faxiantafeichangxihuanma,tayefeichangxihuanlu。neimema,taqinglangshininghuaguotade《bajuntu》,neimewomenbabapimazuochengbapixuxurushengdetongma,tiliangyehenda,feichangdadetongma。tongshiwomenyequkantadeluyuan,tazaixiangshandeluyuan。tazaigugongzhanghualide,xiang《caizhitu》,tagenluzaiyiqideneixietu。wojuedeluyeshizhongguorenfeichangxiaideyigedongwu,jixiangderuishou,womenjiukaifalehenduodeguanyuludeticai。

womenzheixiezhongqinachulaiyihou,danyuanzhangkandaohoufeichangdejingqi,tashuonizenmehuiyouzheimeduogugongdechanpin,yinweitabuzhidaoqishiwoshi“pingkong”zuochulaide。neimedangran,woshiyouyidingfengxiande,xianzaikanqilaizheiyinggaishiwowenchuangshengyadezuihouyibo,yinweiwomenyouyicitoule1600duowandeqidongzijinlaikaifagugongdewenchuangchanpin。gangcaiwojiangleqianmianbanianwoyizhimeiniandou(yi)1000wandesuduzaipeiqian,yijingpeibuqile,zheibaruguoshudehuakenengwojiubuwanle。danshiyunqihaihao,zheicidekaifashoudaoleshichangderenke。dangranzheigelimianyehenquzhe,womenzheixiechanpinnadaogugongdeshihou,meiyourenkanhao,suoyouderenbukanhao,jiushuonifengle,nizaigugongchaoguo100kuaidongxibuyaomai。dangshishi2014nian,yinweiwo2013niankaishikaifa,kaifalezhengzhengyinian。ranhou2014niandanyuanzhangbagugongzuihaodeyikuaidifang,jiaozuo“qianlonghuayuan”,rangwoquzuowenchuangchanpindezhanlan。dangranzhanlanshijishangshixiaoshou,danyuanzhangzaizheigeshangmianfeichangdekaifang,tarenweinijiushidongxiqueshihao,danshiniyidingyaomaidedong。niyidingyaoranglaobaixingnenggoutaoqianmaihuiqu,zhiyoumaihuiqucaishijiaozuo“bagugongwenhuadaihuijia”。wojuedewoxinlimeidi,dajiabukanhao,yinweichaoguo100kuaibuyaomai,gugongmeiyoukenengmai。

yinweiwoshidajiqianshenzhishangwandedongxi,duibudui?zenmekenengzailvyoujingdianmaishangwankuaiqiandedongxi,zheizhongmoshimeiyoujianliqilai,zheizhongshiyongchangjingdajiagenbenbunengxiangxiang。yinweiyuanlaimaideshishuqian,10kuaiqianyizhangdeshuqian,qianbihe、xiangpi、qianbi,maideshizheiyangdedongxi。danshiwomendezuopinqueshishoudaolehenhaoderenke,woyemeixiangdao,keyishuoshiyipaodaxiang。womenyeshishoujiajinrugugongdewailaipinpai,yinweiyuanlaigugongdekaifadoushineibuzaizuode。weishenmehuodedajiaderenke?wojuedeyoujigefangmian,yifangmiandajiazaizheigeshijiandianshang,xiaofeizheduiyuchuantongwenhuadexiaireqingfeichanggaozhang,tongshixiangyingdenenggoupipeizheizhongchuantongwenhuagaodudezheixiewenchuangchanpinshichangkongque。dajiayigunaoerdiquzuoneixiexiaowenju,lvyoujinianpin,meiyoubatazuoweiyigedeyishupindechuancheng,shenzhishishouzangpindechuanjia、chuanshidegainianlaidazao。dangranwomenyeyouhenhaodejiagetixilaiweihu,lairangdajiajuedezhendeshiwuyousuozhi,suoyiwomenzuolexiangdangduodewenchuangchanpin,womenjiujinrulegugong。

xianzaidajiakandaodejiaozuo“qianlonghuayuan”,wojianyidajia,ruguoqugugongyidingbuyaocuoguoqianlonghuayuan。quqianlonghuayuanhaiyaozaihua10kuaiqian,danshiwojuedefeichangzhidequyikan。yinweitashiweiyugugongzhenbaoguanlimiandeyigehendadeyuanlin。gugongdehaodongxiqishidouzaigugongzhenbaoguanlimian。zaigugongdezhongzhouxianshang,nikandaodeshidadejianzhu,qishizhenzhengdehaodewenwuzaizhenbaoguanlimian。neimewomendeqianlonghuayuanjiuweiyugugongzhenbaoguanlimian,zheigesiheyuanjiushidangshilaizuozhanlandesiheyuan。muqiandajiakandaodezheizhangzhaopianjiushiwomenweiyuqianlonghuayuanlimiande,jiaosuichutang。suichutangshiqianlonghuangdituixiuyihouzijizhudeyigexiaoyuanzi,yigesiheyuan,womendangshidezuopinjiuzaisiheyuanlizuozhanlan。zheijiushiwomenzaisuichutangzhanlandexianchang,baokuomenkouduishizijiaotaihexiongshi,yeshiwomenzuode。danshilingwaiyizhangtupianshangneigegangbushiwozuode,gangqueshishiqianlonghuangdiliuxialaide。guanyugangdegushiyeshimanyouyiside,houlaiwomenzhudashiyejigugongfuzhilehenduozheiyangdegang,yinweitamengugongdeganghoulaiyediushilehenduo。

suoyizheijiushiwomendangshiganshangle“chao”,womennenggoujinrugugongzuihexindejingqulimianzuozhanlan。qishiwomendangshizhendehenruoxiao。nishuopinpaiyehao,nishuoqiyeyehao,zhendeshifeichangweibuzudaodeyijiaqiye,yigegenbenmeiyoubapinpaizuochulaideqiye,danshiwomenyinweiyouzheiyangdejiyuanqiaohe,womenjinrulegugong,bingqieshoudaolexiaofeizhe、shoudaoleguanzhongdexiai。yinweiwomenzaichanpinkaifashangqueshifuheledangshideren,baokuoxianzaideren,duiyuzhongguochuantongwenhuadegaodu、dingjidexuqiu,zheigegenwo2005niandao2013nianshihouzuodewanquanbuyiyangle,tashihuidaolebenshenyingyoudegaodu。zheijiushidangshi,wogangcaijieshaode《wuniutu》,womenzuochenglewutouniu,(jiao)wufulinmen。zheigeshiguojiadeyixielingdaoceng,yinweitamenyaoxuanyixieguolideshihou,jiuhuidaowozheigedianlilai,keyidaodianlilaixuan。houlai,jiushiyinweidanyuanzhangdalikaifawenchuangdeshihou,quanguolaobaixingdouzhidao,gugongwenchuangzuodefeichanghao。neimeguojia,baokuogegebumen,tayouchufangdeshihou,tahenzirandejiuxiangdaozaigugonglaixuanjianliwu。zaigugongdeshihou,tamenyejingchanghuituijiandaowomendetongqiguan,yinweitongqidaibiaozhezhongqi,feichangyouxingzheitaowuniuyesuizhewomenguojialingdaorenyechufanglemeiguo,songjilemeiguodelingdaoren。

neimedangranhoulai,womenyouhenduodebaokuowomendelu,baokuowomendema,baokuozaigezhongdewaijiaochanghedouchuxianlewomendezheixiegugongyuansudewenchuangchanpin。suoyiwoyeshijuedehenyouxing,zhenggeguanyugugongwenchuangchanpindekaifashangmian,womenhuodeledadehuibao。baokuogangcaishuodewomenzaigugongqishinenggoukandaozheiwutoudadeniu,zheiyeshifeichangqitede。yinweizaigugongshimeiyoudangdaideyishujiadezuopinde,neimeweiyiyoudejiushizhubingrendashidezheiwutoudadeniu,zheiyeshidangshidanyuanzhangtichude。gugongsuoyoudewenwudoushibunengpeng、bunengmo,tashuonizuowutouniufangzaiguangchangshang,rangdajiakeyipaizhaoliunian,shenzhihaikeyichumo,zhijiedilaiganshou。suoyizheici,yinweiwomenzaigugongdewenchuangchanpindekaifashoudaoledajiadefeichangduoderenke,jiexialaiwomenjiukaishilesuoweideliansuopinpaideyunying。cong2014niankaishidaoxianzai,womenzaiquanguoyeyoujiangjin100jiademendian。womenyeshitongguole,birushuoxiangbuxingjie、xiangjichang、xiangyixiegaoduandeshangchang,zheiyangdebuju,rangchuantongdefeiyinenggouhuohua,nenggourangdajiaxiai。shouxiannishinenggouchumo,ninenggouganshou,ranhounikenenghuixiai,nikenenghuinahuijia,zheishiwomenzhenggepinpai(de)yigeluoji。

neimewogangcaishuodaole“chao”,zheigeshihoushizhenzhengdelaile。danshihenmingxian,ruguowomenqukanqiantangjiangchaodehua,jiaoyonglichaotou。haiyouyige,chaoqishiyeshihenweixiande,niyaoyonglichaotou,niyidingshiyaowusuoweiju,bingqiezishenyaoyouhenqiangdadenengli,nicainengjiayuchaoshui。jiushiwomenzaizhenggeguochengzhong,zhongjianruguoyouyigehuanjiemeiyouguoqudehua,kenengjiuganbushangzheiyibolangchao。neimeduiyuchuantongwenhua,ruhebatazhuanhuadaowenchuangdeguocheng,womenyezongjiechuleyixiejingyan。birushuo,womendechanpinyaotixianwomendeshougong,zheishiwoyizhizaiqiangdiaodeduiba?jiushinisuoyoudechanpin,nibushijixiehuadechanpin,yinweinishiyongtongzuode,nibushimaiwujinjian,nibushimaizilaishuilongtou,nibushimaimenbashou。womenshiyongtongzhuzuo,danshiwomenbushiwujinjian,womenbushigongyehuachanpin,womenshichuantongfeiyi,womenshiyaoshouzuo。neimeshouzuoyouhepiliang,hepinpaideyunying,baokuochengbendekongzhi、zhiliangdekongzhi,taqishishiyouyidianmaodunde。ruhebaozhengzhenggepicidezhiliangdetongyixing,bingqienenggourangyigedajianenggoujieshoudejiagelaigoumai,suoyiwomenyezuolefeichangduodezheizhongyanjiu。ruhetongguoyixieliushuixianlaijiangdichengben,ranhouzenmetongguozaiqiwushangdezheizhongshougongdehenjilaibiaoxianjiangrenduiyuzheizhongqiwudelijie。zaizheigefangmiandezheizhongjiehe,worenweihaishiqudelechenggongde。

tongzheigedongxiwoyizhizaishuo,ruguotalikailewenhua,tashimeiyourenhedejingzhengli。ruguotalikailegongyi,ruguotalikailelishi,tameiyourenhedejingzhengli,woshuodejingzhenglishiheta(yu)qitacailiaoxiangbi。birushuonishuoyikuaitong,nibufuyutawenhuaneihan,bufuyutashouyi,bufuyutalishi,tajingzhengbuguobuxiugang,jingzhengbuguolvhejin、boli、suliao,tameifajingzheng,duiba?tacongjiaweishangshuo。dangshizai2005niandao2013nian,womenjiushijiandandirenweitongshigecailiao,womenbatongcailiao(dezuopin)zuochulaile,womenmeiyoufuyutahenhaodewenhuahegongyijiazhi。neimexianzaiwomenzhaodaolezheiyangyigetongdejiehe,yeshiguigongyu,yaodeyiyuchuantongwenhuade“chao”gangganghaodaolai。bingqiewojuedetayeshiyuelaiyuesheng,wanmabenteng。zaikejiandeweilai,dajiaduiyuzhongguochuantongwenhuadezheizhongxiai,zheizhongchengduyidinghuiyuelaiyueshen、yuelaiyueqiang。suoyizaizheigeshijiandianshangjinru“guochao”yidingmeiyouwan,jiuxiangwomenkenengqudebijiaozao,danshixianzaiqu,xianzaijiaruyeyongyuanbuhuiwan。suoyiwoyezaisikaolingwaiyigehuati,jiushiwomendeguochaochanpin,ruhenenggoukuaisuderangdajianenggoujieshou,bingqietayouyixiegongyinenggoutixianchulai。

birushuowomenzheigeipyeshibijiaolihai,zheishiyigesonghuizongde“ruihe”,womenzuolezhengtaochahu,baokuowotaishangdechahu。zheiyeshiwomendewanghongchanpin,yizhiyizhizaihuojiang,huolehaoduodedajiangdeyigedanpin。zheiyeshituolewomensonghuizongdefu,tuolezheimedingjide,dingliudezheifuminghua《ruihetu》defuqi,daidonglewomenzhenggexiaofei。baokuoxianzaizheilikandaodeshiwomenhe《guojiabaozang》laihezuode,jiushiwozheilidezheitoushenlu“jiuselu”。gen《guojiabaozang》dunhuangipdejiehe,womenzuoledaliangdeludeticai,yeshishoudaolehenhaodehuanying。yinweiwobenrengangcaijieshaole,wotongshiyeshizhejiangshengdegongyimeishudashi,yeshifeiyichuanchengren,neimebenshenzaijiyishangshiyaoyouyidingdezhuiqiu,yaoyouyidingdechuangzao。zheiyeshiwoyizhizainulizaiyanjiudeyigeketi,jiushichuantongjiyiruhehuohua、ruhexianjie、ruhegenjin?womenduiyuwenhuadexuqiu,guochaoyehao,chuantongwenhuayehao,yuelaiyuewanggaoji,wangshendu(de)fangxiangfazhan,zheigeshidajiakeyilijiede。gangkaishidajiakenenghaishirenshibushen,chanpinkenengbijiaoyouzhi,cengcikenenghaimeiyoumanmantisheng。

danshizheige“chao”gualekuai10nianle,neimexiaofeizheduiyutongyangshi“guochao”,taduiyuzheizhongjiyideyaoqiu,duiyubiaoxiandeyaoqiu,shiyuelaiyuegao,tadeyanjieyeshiyuelaiyuekuanguang。zheigeshihounichuantongdejiyiruguomoshouchenggui,suirannishilaojiyi,kenengbiandezuihouyaolaibaohuni。yinweinigenbushangxiandairendexuqiu,youqishigenbushangxiandairenshenmei。laodejiyiruhehexiandaideyishu,zenmebatajieheqilai,suoyizheilizuoleyidiansikaogendajiafenxiang。zheishiwozuijinzuodeyixiezuopin。yinweiwozaihangzhou,zaisongyundefayuandi,songyundemimandi,womenhangzhoubiandidoushisongwenhua。neimesongwenhualimiandezheixieshanshanshuishui,songhuashizhongguohuadeyigedianfeng。ruheyongtong,ruheyongchuantongdejiyilaibiaoxianchusonghualimiandezhongguoshanshuideqiyun。jidajiazaikanyixia,zuijindewozijibenrendeyixiechuangzuodelinian,zheijiushizaichuantongdejifashangdeyixietisheng。chuantongdediaoketashimeiyoubanfabazheizhongqiyun、bazheizhongchouxiang、bashengdonggannenggouzuochulai。suoyigangcaishuodaole,suiranshichuantongjiyi,danhaishiyaoyushijujin,haishiyaohedangxiadexuqiu,dangxiadewenhuachuangzaobata(men)zuoyigehenhaodejiehe。

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