记者 | 程大发

编辑 | 刘海川

2020nian9yue，duiruililaishuoshiyigezhuanzhedian，henduozhuanbiandoushicongzheilikaishide。renmenzongshihuishuo“yiqingzhiqian”huozheshuo“fengchengzhihou”。

当地人说，疫情之前，瑞丽遍地黄金，“生意很好做”。证据之一，是这个云南边陲小城玉石交易市场外的豪车，不同型号的保时捷、路虎、法拉利经常出现。仅2019年，瑞丽就接待672多万游客，成为当年全国旅游的百强县市之一。

多次封城之后，游客没了，做生意的外地人也走了。1年之内，瑞丽在全员核酸检测中统计的人口减少了一半。曾经的不夜之城“姐告口岸”，天还没黑就空了。

最后一次解封

zaiyunnandexinanbianchui，ruilizaiyicijiefeng。guoqu3nianli，zheizuobianjingxiaochengjingliguo10duocidefengcheng、jiefeng、zaifengcheng……rushiwangfu。

danzheiyici，renmenxiangxinshizhendejieshule。

2022nian12yue7ri，guowuyuanlianfangliankongjizhizonghezufabule《guanyujinyibuyouhualuoshixinguanfeiyanyiqingfangkongcuoshidetongzhi》，qizhongtidao，buzaiduikuadiquliudongrenyuanchayanhesuanjianceyinxingzhengminghejiankangma，buzaikaizhanluodijian。suihou，ruilixuanbuzi12yue8ri0shiqi，chururuiliquxiaochayanhesuanjixingchengma，buzaichayanwanggerenlingjiliruishenpi。

dangwan，yiweiruilijuminqizhemotuochelaidaoruiligaosulukou，zaigenshoufeizhangongzuorenyuanquerenkeyichuchenghou，shouzaizheili。yiguolingdian，tajiuyiluqixiangdongbei，laidaodalikanrichu。

tazaizijidedouyinzhanghaoshangjilulezheiduanfengkuangdeshifangzhilv。jinguanleng、pijuan；jinguantakanwanrichuhaidezaiqixing400gongli、ganzaiwanshang7dianqianhuiruilishangban，dantayijiuquanchengxingfen，yinweitakandaole“xinshenghuodeshuguang”，taxiangxinshenghuojiangyinglai“yigequanxindekaishi”。

12yue9ri，ruilishizuidadenongmohugongyuanjuxingwurenjidengguangxiu，shangqianjiawurenjizairuilishangkongbaichu“wozairuilidengni”dengziyang。kuanghuanchixuleliangtian，qingzhuderenqunjianggongyuande3gechurukoududeshuixiebutong，wangyuechesijichenlinzairenliuzhongyibianhuanmannuoche，yibiangankai：“liangnianle，haishidiyiciduche。”

比起武汉，瑞丽居民对疫情的感知要来得晚一些。2020nian9yue，yinliangmingmiandiantouduzhexiedaixinguanbingdurujing，daozhiruiliduorenbeiquezhen，dangdirenjinglileyiqingfashengyilaideshoucifengcheng。2021nian3yue，ruilizaicifashengjingwaishuruyiqing，tongwangmiandianderuilikouanbeiguanbi，liangnianli，fengchengzaizheigebianjingxiaochengfashengle10duoci。

fanfudefengchenghou，yixieren"taoli"leruili。genjumeitibaodao，2021nian4yue，ruilishicanyuquanyuanhesuanjiancederenshushi38wan，daole2022nian4yue，zheigeshuzibianchengle19wan，jianshaoyiban。zheicijiefenghou，yiweizaigonganxitonggongzuodechengkeyougaosuchenlin，zuijinmeitiandouyou3000zuoyouderenhuidaoruili。

12yue10ri，mangshisijikangshuaidaizheqizilaidaoruili，bandaikuan、jiaodingjin，maileyitaodanyuanfang。kangshuailejieguo，yiqing2nianduo，mangshidefangjiapubiancongmeipingfangmijunjia7000yuandiaodaolejunjia4000yuan。taquanjiemianxinwenjizhe：“zhidetouzi，xianzaizhengshirushoudehaoshihou！”taxiangxinruilizuoweizhongyaodemaoyikouan，jingjiyidinghuizaijiefenghouhuidan，fangjiayehuisuizhihuifu，shenzhizhangdegenggao。

zheishiyizhongpubiandeleguanqingxu。liuzairuiliderenmenxiangxin，chunjieguohou，rendouhuihuilai，ruilidejingjiyehuihaoqilai。

曾经不夜城

chenlinjide，yiqingyiqian，ruilishiyigeyeshenghuohenfengfudechengshi。

chenlinshipao“ruili-mangshi”zhuanxiandesiji。ruilimeiyoujiaotongshuniu，waidilaiwangruili，zuibianjiedejiaotongfangshishidaozhoufumangshizuofeiji。yiqingqian，chenlinmeitianshengyizuihaodeshihoushicongwanshang7diandaolingchen4dian，likaidehedaolaiderendouduo。

jiegaobianjingmaoyiqushidaduoshuyexingzhedezhongdian，yeshiyewanzuifanhuadedifang。2000nian，jingguowuyuanpizhun，jiegaochengweizhongguodiyigeshixing“jingneiguanwai”teshuhaiguanmoshijianguanmoshidebianmaotequ。liantongjiegaokouanyuruilichengqudejiegaodaqiaozhongxinxianweihaiguanguanjingxian，haiguanzehousheyudaqiaoxice。

ercongmiandianjinrujiegaobianjingmaoyiqudehuowuhewupinmianguanshui，haiguanbushixingjianguan。jumiandiandanbangdongbudisitequguanfangshuju，jiegaokouanzuoweizhongmianbianjingmaoyidezhongyaomaoyiguankou，meitianzhishaoyou400-600lianghuochejinchu。

52suidebaihuacengshihuochesijizhongdeyiyuan。2010nian，tachengweiguachesiji，zairuiliyumiandianzhijianyunsongyumi、ganzhe、damidengnongzuowu。qidiandaozhongdianzhijianzhiyou10duogongli，baihuameitianzhishaowangfanliangtang。tajide，ruilidaqiaoxixingdedaoluyongyuanshidude，jishishishenye，jiegaodaqiaoshangyepaimanledahuoche、xiaoqichezaidengdaitongguan。

juzhongguoshangwubudeshuju，2019-2020cainian，zhongmiantongguobianjinghehaiyundemaoyizongeda120yimeiyuan。qizhong，daliangdemiandiannongchanpintongguojiegaokouanjinruzhongguo。

zheizuobianjingxiaochengdefanhua，lingyibufenlaiziyuzhubaomaoyi。juhaiguantongjishuju，miandiannianchan2wandundeyushimaoliaozhong，yueyou6000dunliuruzhongguo，qizhongtongguoruilikouanjinrudejiuyou4000dun。zuoweiyushimaoliaojinruzhongguodeshouzhan，“jiegaoyucheng”zhujianfazhanchengweiguoneizuida、zuichengshudeyushimaoliaojiaoyishichang。

miandianrenwangju11suishigensuimamalaidaoruili，chuansuozaijiegaoyucheng、ruilizhubaojiederenqunzhongjian，tongguoxiangshangchenglidezhongguozhubaoshangrendoushoumiandianyuanshimouquboli。zaitadejiyili，ruilijuminhaoxiangyongyuandouhenmangliu，“biqijiaxiang（mandele），zheizuochengshicongtianliangdaotianheidouhenrenao。”

2017nianqi，zhibodaihuozhujianzairuilixingqi。zijietiaodongjituanyufeicuiwangchaogongsihezuogongjiande“duobaozhicheng”zhibojidi，zi2019nian10yueshiyunxingzhi2020nian11yuedi，xiaoshouzongejin55yiyuan；erzhongguoshichangxuehuiyualiyanjiuyuanfabude《zhibodianshangquyufazhanzhishuyanjiubaogao》xianshi，2020nian，ruilizhubaozhibojiaoyieda102yiyuan。

jiegaoyuchengzhibojidi、delongyeshi、duobaozhichengzhibojidichedijiangruilibianchengyizuo“buyezhicheng”。zhibotanweishang，diannao、buguangdenghexuanhuajiaocuoderenshengcheyebuxi。ouer，ruilideyekonghuituranbeiyanhuozhaoliang。neishidushidezhubozaiweitadeshitoutaocaitou，tahemaixiayushidehuozhudouqidaizheyidaobianfu，“yidaozoushangtuhaolu”。

daxuebiyeyihou，wangjuhuidaoruili，yechengweileyimingyushizhubo。tapifubai、weipang、toufaweijuan，bushidianxingdedongnanyarenzhangxiang，zhibojianlijingchangyourenwenta：nizhendeshimiandianrenma？zheiyushibushijiadeba？

tazongshiliezuidaxiao，yuanyanmichengyitiaofeng，ranhouyongmianyuhuida：“shideya，wojiushimiandianren。zhibuguoxihuanzhongguo，henxiaojiulaidaolezhongguo。”tadeyushizhibogenchangjiandebutong，meiyouguyongmiandianrendekanjiabiaoyan、yemeiyouchezhesangzidesihou。tajinlizaixingzhedeshihoudoukaizhibo，yongzhencheng、qinmian，yijicongmamaneilixuedaodeyushizhishilaidadongren。

xiabohou，wangjuhuilaidaojiangbianguangchangchidongxi。yikaofujinyushijiaoyishichangderenliu，jiangbianguangchangyebianchengleruilirenliuliangzuidadexiaochijisandizhiyi。baitian，zheiliyoumiandianrenmaideshuaibabahepaoluda，daizurenmaidesapie，haiyoubendixiaochipaojijiao；wanshangzheiliyouyanxunhuoliaodeshaokaopeiacaigao、kaofantuanheshaobaba。

tazuixihuanzaitiepidejianyifanglidianwanxiaochihou，anjingzuozailubiandengdaideshike，jinchushicuzhuangderongshu、benliuderuilijiang，jiangduianshijiegaokouan，zaiwangdong，guomenzhiwaijiushitadeguxiang。

疫情下的"财富"故事

yushishengyinengyouduozhuanqianni？jiangxirenchunhuafenxiangleyigetatongxiangdegushi。

tongxiangyushangshiji90niandaicongjiangxilaidaoruili，qianxinianhou，kaishizairuiliheguangzhouliangdizuoyushishengyi。dao2020nian，tongxiangkaozhemaimaiyushizhuandeqian，zairuilimaile9jiangongyu、zaiguangzhoumaile2taobieshu，haimaile5lianghaoche，jisangeernvmailedianmian。

tongxiangdegushizhenjiananbian，danzaiyunnan，zai21shijizaoqiruju、kaoyushiqijiaderenbibijieshi。wangjuhuiyixiaoshihoudezhubaoshichang：“ruguonikandaoyindurenhuozhemiandianren，beizheyigejiujiudedanjianbao，shenqingjingti，nizoulujinlianglitayuanyidian，qidiandongchejingguoyidingbuyaoturanjiasu。yinweitadebaolideyibandouyoufeicui、zhubao，shaozezhijiwan，duozezhijishiwanshenzhishangbaiwan、shangqianwan。”

congruilidaomangshi、yingjiang、tengchong、baoshan，bianjingxianshangchongchizhedadaxiaoxiaodecaifuchuanqi。chunhuahezhangfuyeshibeizheiyangdecaifugushixiyin，zai2020nianlaidaoruili。

ciqian，chunhuazainingbodecaishichangzuolejin20niandepifashengyi。maicaideshihou，chunhuameitianlingchen3dianjiuyaoqichuang，kaizhehuochequchengjiao，daotianjianditoushougounongmindeshucai。zhuangmanchehou，zaizaoshang8dianqiangandaoshucaipifashichang，dengdaimaijiashangmen。daotengyitian，tahezhangfunengzhuanjibaikuaiqian。

60suineinian，chunhuajuedinglikainingbo。maicaideshengyitailei，tanianjidale，xianghuanyigexingdang。yushi，tahezhangfucongjixuzhongnachu30duowanmaileyushi，youmeigeyuehua1200yuan，zairuilidedelongyeshizuleyige4mizhangdetanwei。

xinshengyikaizhangbudao2geyue，ruilijiuyinglailediyicifengcheng。zhihoumeicijiefeng，chunhuadouganjuedelongyeshishangdeshangjiahemaizhushaoleyixie。zaitagebitanweideguangxinvhai，meicitingdaoyouquezhenbinglidefengsheng，jiudiyishijiankaichebeishang，paodaotengchongbifengtou。2nianli，nvhailikaile5ci，youdi6cihuilai。

chunhuayexiangguolikai。henduozuoyushidetongxingdoupaodaoleguangdongbaitan，zaifoshanpingzhouhezhaoqingsihui，yeyouzhudachengpinjiaoyideyushishichang。dantadatingleyixia，zaiguangdong，shichangtanweidezujinhefangzudoushiruilide2beiyishang，“erqieyiqingma，nalimeiyou？jintianzheili、mingtianyoushineili。womennianjidale，buzhetengle。”chunhuashuo，tahezhangfuliulexialai。

2021nian10yue，cengguazhiruilifushizhangdedaironglifawenhuyu“jiujiu（ruili）zheizuoyingxiongdechengshi”yinfashehuiguanzhu，suihou，ruilishizhengfuxuanbucaiquqianghuashehuiminshengbaozhangfangmiandecuoshi，biruyinxingwei68huqiyekuanxianhaikuanqixiandeng。jiegaoyucheng、delongshichangdengruiliyushijiaoyishichangyexiangjixuanbu，zhishichangfugongfuchanshi，jianmianshichangneigeshangjiadezujin。

xuduobendifangdongyejianmianlezukefangzu，chunhuadefangzucongmeigeyue700yuanjiangdaolemeigeyue400yuan。xianzaihuikan，chunhuajuedezijidejuedingshigengmingzhide。zheiliangniansuiranmeizhuandaoqian，danbiqipaodaoguangdongdetongxinglaishuo，tayemeikuigengduo。

chunhuayiranbaochizhemaicaishideqinmian。zaidelongyeshi，chunhuahezhangfuzongshilaidezuizao、zongdezuiwandeneipirenzhiyi。suirantamaideshididuanyushi，yizhishouzhuo50yuan，chengbenbugao、lirunyebugao，danmeicijiefeng，yitouyinfadetazonghuizhunshichuxianyeshili。

边境线上

从地图上看，瑞丽是一个不规则的长方形，三面毗邻缅甸。瑞丽市长尚腊边曾公开介绍：“瑞丽全市68%的人口相当于抵边居住。”

zairuilixinanyue11gonglichu，shenzhiyouyigezhumingjingdian“yizhailiangguo”。zaizheili，zhongmianbianjingde71haojiebeijiuchulizhaizhong，guojingxianjiangdaizucunzhaiyifenweier，shuyuzhongguodeyicecheng“yinjingcun”，shuyumiandiandeyicecheng“mangxiucun”。yiqingqian，zhongguoyoukezhanzaiyinjingcundejianyitiewangqian，jiunengmaidaoyigelaizimiandiandeboluo。

绵延169.8公里的边境线给瑞丽带来了发展机遇，也jiruilidailailejudadefangyiyali。zhongguokexueyuandilikexueyuziyuanyanjiusuodeyipianyanjiubaogaobiaoming：zaichuanranbingshurushang，ruilikouanshizhongguo91geyanbiankaifangkouanzhongjinyoudegaofengxiankouan，qiefengxianxianzhugaoyuqitakouan。

guojingxianquanyajiaocuo，duiyuzhongmianbianminlaishuo，keyiyueguoguojingdefangshiyewuhuabamen。keyifanshanlu；yekeyizoushuilu，youxiedifangyouguoqu、youxiedifangtangzheqixishendeshuijiuguoqule；haikeyicongtiangengjianzouguoqu。

bianjingxianshangdejumindoujingliguo，yiqingqijian，fengkongzhongdebianjingcunsheweiqiangliangce，turanjiumaochuyitiaojianloudedixiatongdao；baitianganglashangdetiesiwang，yelijiubeirenjianduanle；minjingqianfanfeifazhiliudemianjirenyuan，qianfandejingchehaimeidaoruili，beiqianfanderenyijinghuilaile。

2021nian7yue，yangshiwangpandianleruilifashengdejiaodaguimoyiqing，faxian“sanciyiqingjunyumiandianyouguan”。gengzaoyixie，dangnian3yuefashengyiqingshi，xinhuameiridianxunzaiqiweixingongzhonghaoshangfabiaopinglunwenzhangzhichu：shifouyiweizhedangdi“waifangshuru”rengyouloudongweiduzhu？

juruilishizhengfu2021nianzhengfugongzuobaogao，weileduzhuloudong，ruilileijitouruyiqingfangkongzijin3.66yiyuan，shezhifengkongdian605ge，jianchengbianjinglinshifangyisheshi197gongli。

rujin，zhangzhangdebianjingxiandoubeijin10migaodezulansheshigekaile。tianjianditouweishangletiepiweilan；guomenchudesuoyoushumudouyibeikandiao，xiashuidao、handongdengyeguanshuinidusi，rongyifanyuededifangjiaguleyicengyouyicengdaidiantiesiwang；weifangtouduzhewadidaorujing，youdediduanhaicongtiesiwangxiangdixiadale1.5mizuoyoushendegangtiao。

yutouduzheyiqibeijieduande，haiyoucengjingfanrongdebianjingmaoyi。

miandiandexigua、ganzhejinbulai，mangshidexiangjiao、huluobu、huolongguoyeyunbuchuqu。benyingshishouhuodejijie，daliangdezuowuquelanzaidili。chenlinjide，2021nian，pingshi2-3kuaiqianyijindexiangjiao，jiagediaodao1kuaiqianyijinyemeirenmai；shouchenghaodeshihou，yuminengmai6000yuanyidun，neinianyidunquezhimaideqi1500yuan。

duiyushishichangyeshizhendang。ruilimaoliaoshichangzuidadejingzhenglizaiyukaojinchanqu，xinxiandeyuanshinengyuanyuanbuduanliuru。guomenguanbihou，yushiyunbujinlai，shichangshanglailaihuihuiliuzhuandedoushi“laohuo”。zhibodechengjiaoliangxiajiang，danjingyingzhibozhanghaosuoxuyaoderenli、cailichengbenquemeiyougaibian，yixiezhong、xiaozhubojianjianfangqiyushi，likaileruili。

胞波之城

12yuexiaxun，ruilijiedaoshangxishi、xinuandezonglvkezhiwulvyiangran，yimumian、sanjiaomei、huoyanlanyezaichengshidegegejiaoluoshengkai。

dongrishangwu10dianduo，zhiyoubowulongzhaozherengweikaifangde“yizhailiangguo”。yiweibaozhefensetoujindenianqingnvren，qizhediandongchelaidaoyinjingguomenqian。tazaiguomenqiantingxia，dawanyigedianhua，jiuzhengzhengdiwangzheduimian，beitiesiwanghetiemengekaidemiandianjiedao。

henkuai，duimianjiedaoshanglailelingyiliangdiandongche，shiyigezhongnianfunvlingzheyigexiaonvhai。xiaonvhaitiaoxiadiandongche，chongzhezheitoudenvrenyonglizhaoshou。gezhefengbidetiemen，tamendashengdiyongmianyujiaoliulejifenzhong，suihouxiaonvhaihuishougaobie，diandongchexiaoshizailemiandiandejiedaoshang。

nianqingnvrenshuo，neishitademamahenver。yinweiyiqingfengkong，tabeiliuzairuili。zheiliangnianli，nvercongzhihuijiao“mama”zhangdaolenengshuohuidao、kaishishangxuedenianji。ertaquexilenverdechengzhang。jinguankeyiyongshoujishipintonghua，dantahaishijingchanghuipaodaoguomenbian，yuanyuandigenhaizishuoshuohua，yinwei“zheiyangwomendejulinenggengjinyidian。”tashuo。

zheiyangdefenlibingbushiguli。4nianqian，ruilirenzhangchenghemiandianrenwangjujiehun，hunhouliuzaiwangjujiaxiangmandelejingyingmucaichang。3nianqian，tamendenverchusheng，suihouxinguanyiqingkaishi、guomenguanbi。ta3nianmeinenghuijiaxiang，muqinyecongweiqinshoubaoguozijidesunnv。

在瑞丽，到处都可以看到“胞波之城”的标语。“baobo”yiweitongbao、xiongdi，shiduizhongmianliangguoshendujiaoliuheyouhaoqingyidechengwei。juruilishizhengfuguanwangshuju，2019nianshangbannian，jiegaokouanchurujinglvkechao835wanrenci，qizhongmiandianjizhan91.35%。

“ruilidelaowushichangli，90%yishangdoushimiandianren。”chenlinshuo，tacengjingkaiguoyigexiaocanguan，zaizhaogongdeshihoufaxian，bendilaobanmendouxihuanzhaomiandiangongren，yinwei“bianyi、nengchiku”。

miandianrenyegengyuanyilaidaoruilidagong。wangjushuo：“biqimiandian，ruiliyougengduodegongzuojihuihegenggaodebaochou；erbiqiqitachengshi，ruilihaoxianggengrangrenanxin，yinweiyouhenduotongbao。”tacongxiaojiufaxian，miandiandetongbaomenchongchizairuilidelifadian、xiaochidian、qichexiulichangdenggexinggeye。

axiangzai2015nianyuzhangfulihunhoulaidaozhongguo，kaozaijiudianzuofuwuyuanyanghuolianggenver。2020nian9yueyihoutajiumeihuiguomiandian。tanqilianggenver，yanleijiuyongshangtadeyankuang，“（jianbudaotamen）xinhentengde。meibanfa，yaozhuanqian，zaizhongguoqiangenghaozhuanyidian。”tashuo。

12yue8ri，jiegaodaqiaokaifang，suiranguomenhaimeiyoukaifang，danrenyijingkeyiziyoujinchujiegaobianjingmaoyiqu。meitian，jiegaokouandetiesiwangqiandouyouzhangwangdemiandianren，tamenyijing2nian——shenzhigengjiumeihuijiale。yiweilianxu3tiandaojiegaoguomenqianshaitaiyangdemiandian“baobo”shuo：“meitianlaizheilizuozuo，jiugenhuxiguomiandiandekongqiyiyang。”

jiefengyihou，axianggongzuodejiudianlianxukeman。suiranmeiwandouyaojiabandao11dianban，dantaxinqingyuyue。fenlizhongyujiejinweisheng，taxianzaimeitiandoupanzheguomendakai，“ranhoujiukeyiqingjiahuijiaqula！”

（yingcaifangduixiangyaoqiu，wenzhongjunweihuaming）