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到鹤岗去:疗伤、避世或者安家 | 正午视觉

“maifanghou,zhubuzhuzaizheilibuzhongyao;guanjianshizaixinli,ganjuerenshengyoutiaotuilu。”

2023年01月16日 鹤岗来源:界面新闻

正午

| 蔡星卓

| 《zaiheganganjia》jilupian

zaidangdirenkanlai,hegangzhishiyigeputongdedongbeixiaocheng;danzaimeitihewailaizheyanzhong,hegangqueyoulingyifanmianmao,yinfangjiadierhuodebishitaoyuanbandeshenmiguangcai。

xiaoyuanshihegangbendiren,tajideershiguoniandeqingjing:jiajiahuhuzhupingfang,zijiajiuyougeyuanzi,fengnianguojiekeyiguahongdenglong、fangbianpao。haimeidaoniansanshier,darenmenjiukaishizhawanzi、mahua、jiaoye,zaihemailaideguazi、huashengyiqi,fangzaiyuanzidedaganglidongshang,yifanglaoshutouchi。chuxiyedenianyefan,darenmenhuiweiyigudeqinrenduofangyifuwankuai,shengshangdanshudejiaozi。zhengyueshiwuhaiyaojishizhesongxing,darenmenhuilingzhehaizizhanzailubian,geyiliangmifangdianjumoxie,dianshanglazhu……

jintiandeheganghedabufenchengshimeiyouqubie,zhuzailoufangliderenhennantihuipingfangheyuanzilidenianweier。beixiyindaohegangmaifangheanjiaderen,chulefangjia,tamenkanzhongdedaodishihegangdenaxiemeilini?jilupiandaoyanqinxiaoyuecengzai2021nianzhongqiujiezaihegangpaisheguojiweiyijucididenianqingren,yincibeixuduomeiticaifang。zuijinwomenyuqinxiaoyue、jilupiandezhurengongzhiyijingjing,haiyouhegangbendirenxiaoyuanliaoleliao。

yixiashitamenyanzhongdehegang:

 

小圆:本地年轻人都不愿意留下

woshihegangren,80hou,zaiyijiaqiyezuocaiwu。

zaidijiafangdebiaoqianhehegangbangdingzhiqian,waidirengengshuxide,yinggaishigedinengkandaode“hegangxiaochuan”,haiyoucongzheilizouchuqudecanyinpinpai——xijiadeshuijiao。zaiwokanlai,resouhewailaigoufangzhebingbunengladongdangdijingji,zheigechengshideguoquhexianzaiyilaideyizhishimeitanye,zhengtijingjixiangduiluohou。

hegangbuda,congdongdaoxi,yitanggongjiaocheyigexiaoshijiunengzouwan。suishuodequeyourangrenjingyadejiwankuaidedijiafang,danshangbaiwandefangziyebushao。hesuoyouchengshiyiyang,fangjiahuishoudaodiduan、kaifashangdengyinsuyingxiang。zaidangdizhimingxiaoxue、zhongxuezhoubian,yeyousuoweidexuequfang,jiagebudi。yibanshuolai,kaifashanggaideshangpinfangshimeipingfangsansiqianyuan,zhengtaofangzimaidaoshangbaiwan,maopibieshukeyichaoguosanbaiwan。erpenghuqudegaizaofangjiagejiudiyixie,yeyoukaifashangjiangshangpinfangjilezhengfu,huaguiweipenggaifangerdijiachushou。shijinianqiandepenghuqugaizao,ranghenduozhupingfangdejiatingfendaoyitaohuohaojitaofang。woxiang,zaihegangmaifangtouziderenyinggaibuduo,yinweishengzhikongjianyouxian。

hegangnianqingrendaduobuyuanyiliuzaibendi,gaokaoshidoubaowaidiyuanxiao,biyeleyebuyuanyihuiheilongjiang。biyehuidaobendidenianqingren,ruguokaoqugongwuyuan,gongziyoukenengchaoguo4000kuai,zaiqiyedehua,gongzigengdi。biqidachengshi,zheilimeishenmerenwenqixi,zhongxiaoxueshiziboruo,yinweizinvjiaoyufangmiandekaoliang,bushaorenxiangwaiyiju。zheilidongtianhanleng,laonianrenxinxueguanjibingyeduo,jinxienianhenduolaorendouqushandonghuozhehainanguodong。

buguo,hegangyesuanshihejuzhudechengshi,zheilisijifenming,keyizhaodaozongjiabuchao10wanyuandefangzi,wujiadi,wangluogouwuyefangbian。congzheigejiaodulaishuo,wonenglijieneixiecongwaidilaimaifangderen,yexutamenmeiyounenglizaidachengshimaifang,hegangchenggongdixiyinletamen。

buguanshigongzuohaishishenghuozhong,wohenshaojiechulaihegangdewaidiren。wojuede,bendirenhewaidirenkenenggeyougedequanzi。yigerenlaidaorenshengdibushudedifangshenghuo,yeburongyiyudaotaoxintaofeidepengyou,tamenkenenghui“baotuanqunuan”ba。

2022年9月12日,站在鹤岗的平安宝塔上,可见远处是一片棚户区改造房。平安宝塔是新近才建设好的网红打卡地,去年过年时,这里还上演了一次大型烟花秀。(摄影:小圆)
2023年1月7日,鹤岗,旧棚户区。小圆说,除了建成改造房,就是种上树,或是留下这样坑坑洼洼的土地。(摄影:小圆)
2023年1月7日,鹤岗的商场。(摄影:小圆)
2023年1月10日,鹤岗的超市。春节将近,这里也变得热闹起来。(摄影:小圆)

 

静静:在鹤岗有个家,感觉心里有了退路

wojiaojingjing,wenzhouren,80hou。henduorentongguozhibopingtairenshiwo,wocengyongduanshipin“zhibo”lezijizaiheganganjiayulikaihegangdezhenggeguocheng。

quhegangzhiqian,wozaiyiwushenghuolejiangjinliangnian。congyifu、wazidaomaojin、sijiantao,wodedianshangshengyifugailedabufenxiaoshangpin。neishiwozhuzaiyiwudeyigedianshangcun,xialoujiukeyinahuohuozhefakuaidi,yishiyitingdefangzi,yinianzujinbudaoliangwan。

2018nian,hegangshanglexinwenresou,woyinxiangshenke。tongguowangshangzhaopianheshipin,wokandaohegangyouhenduogongyuan,jiedaokuankuo,huanjingyiju。2020nian10yue,tongguozhongjiedeshipin,woyongdagai4wanyuan,yuanchengmaixiazijizaihegangdediyitaomaopifang。wodexiangfahenjiandan:yongbianyidejiagejizijiliuyigebeixuandezhuchu,jianglairuoyouburuyi,jiukeyiguoqushenghuoyizhenzi。

2021nian3yue26ri,wodiyicitashangqianwanghegangdelvtu:congyiwuzuofeijidaobeijing,zaifeidaojiamusi,zuihouhua80kuaiqianpinleyiliangquhegangdechuzuche。yiludexuejingrangwozheigenanfangrenhenjidong,chengshiganjing,biyuqidegenghao。daolefangzisuozaidexiaoqu,woshenzhizhejimanghuangdizoucuoledanyuan。hezaiwenzhouwozhudelaofangzixiangbi,zheiliyaoxinjinghenduo。zuizhongyaodeshi,wenzhouneifangziwomeiyueyaohaidai8300yuan,erzheige68pingmikongjianwoshiquankuanmaixiade,meiyourenhehaidaiyali。daohegangyigeyuehou,woshenzhijifumumaileyitaofangzi,xiangweiyihoudeshenghuozuozhangqidasuan。

鹤岗不仅干净,也很有烟火气息。东北人热情又不排外,很容易交到新朋友,我觉得幸福感很高。北方的冬天比南方漫长,白天城市热闹,晚上八九dianhoujieshangderenjiushaole。zheiliyeyouyeshenghuo,erqietingchequanbumianfei。hegangheqitaxiaochengchabuduo,dandongtiankeyikanxue,xiatianshihebishu,erqiekaojinxiaoxinganling,lvyouziyuanyefengfu。

laiheganghou,wodezhuyaorenwushijizijidefangzizhuangxiu,yeshunbianbangbierenzhuangxiu。wodelingyishenfenshizimeitibozhu。quhegangdelushang,wopailezijidediyitiaoduanshipin。yexushiyinweicengdaohegangdeliuliang,yixiazijiuhuole。jiezhezheiredu,zaihegangwuliaoshi,wojihumeitiandouzhibo。renqizuigaoshi,youjishigerentongshizaixianpeiwoliaotian。zuozimeitiyerangwojieshilebushaohegangbendidepengyou,haijieleyixieshangjiaguanggaohuotandianyaoqing。

weilezhengmingwokeyizuoshitidian,2021nian11yuewohedangdipengyouhekaileyijiahuoguodian。henduopengyoujiyuhendagulihezhichi,yougejiejieshenzhizhuanmencongbeijingguolaijiwopengchang。wodeshijiankaishibeihuoguodiandeshengyizhanman。xianzaixianglai,huoguodiankenengshiwozaihegangshenghuodefenshuiling。tazhanjulewotaiduoshijian,shenghuozhiliangdadaxiajiang。canyuhuoguodianduanduanjigeyuehou,zaishengyizuihaodeshihou,wobataguandiaole。

2022nian2yue,woyizaihegangshenghuolejiangjinyinian,yinweijialiqingkuangfashengbianhua,yekaolvdaonanpengyoudeganshou,wojuedinglikaihegang。

likaideqianyiwan,woyiyeweimian,juedezijimeihunhao。zaibierenhuowodefensiyanli,wokenenghaimeizuochengshenmeshiyejiuhuiliuliudihuiwenzhoule。zheixiejinglibeichengxianzaiwodeduanshipinli,yebeiwangyoupingpan。buguo,hegangdejingliduiwoyeyoujijideyimian,wobuzaijupajinruxindeshenghuohuanjingheshenghuofangshile。

xianzaihuixiang,wobuhouhuizaihegangjizijiliulegejia,yecongweixiangguobafangzimaidiao,zheikenenghewoduifangzidezhinianyouguan。woyougegege,suoyifumudefangzibuhuishouxianliujiwo。5nianqian,wodeqianfuhewodeguimizaiyiqi,woxuanzelelihun,neijianzaiwogongpomingxiadefangziyebushiwode。zaiwoxinli,youyigezijidegudingjusuofeichangzhongyao。zaihegang,woyejiechuguohenduozaizheilimaifangdelihunnvxing,wocaitamendoushixiangyongyouzijidefangzi,danyoubuxiangfudantaizhong,erhegangzaifangjiadidezhuduochengshizhongzuiyouming。

laihegangmaifangderen,doushitouguoxinwenhewangluomeitilejiezheigedifangde。zaiwojiechuderenzhong,chaofanghetouzidezhanshaoshu,duobanhaishixiwangliuzaizheiliguorizi,suoyi,likaiderenbingbuduo。haiyouyibufenren,mailefanghougenbenmeilaiguohegang。kenengtamenhewoyiyang,zhubuzhuzaizheilibuzhongyao,guanjianshizaixinli,ganjuerenshengyoutiaotuilu。

 

秦潇越:远离家乡的人都有不为人知的故事

woshiyimingdulijilupiandaoyan。hehenduowangyouyiyang,woduiheganghenhaoqi。2021nianzhongqiujie,wodaohegangpaishele《zaiheganganjia》duanpian。zuijincaifangwoderenyouduoleqilai,zheigedongbeixiaochengxianranyouyinglaileyiboredu。

meitijihegangtielehenduobiaoqian:fangjiabianyi、liaoshangzhidi、xiaofeishuipingdi……danwoguoquyihoufaxian,zheixiecibingbunenggaikuohegangdequanmao。suiranshiwankuaiyineinengzhaodaozhiliangbucuodefangzi,danhegangyeyouyibaiduowandebieshu。suishuoshigongyechengshi,danhegangjietoukanbudaomingxiandezhonggongyehenji,meikuangbeigaizaochengyizuozuogongyuan,congkongzhongkanquxiangyoulechang。zheilideyeshenghuoxuanzebuduo,buguo,yidanmougejiubahuokafeiguanzuochulezijidetese,suibianyigechuzuchesijidounengbaniladaomudedi。

paishejilupianshi,womenfaxian,zheilidefangzihewoxiangxiangdebutaiyiyang。woyuanbenjihuajiluxiaconggoumai、zhuangxiudaomaidiaofangzidezhenggeguocheng。kandaoshijidefangzihou,womeiyoutaiduogaizaodeyuwangle。woyiwei,xiaoquyinggaijubeiweiqiang、menwei、lvhuadengyuansu。danzaihegangfangjiadiliandexiaoqu,zheixiedoubucunzai。liucengdelaofangzi,hunandeloudaolibumanxiaoguanggao,zhengchuangloukongkongdangdang。jiashangyiqingdeyingxiang,womenfangqilepaishemaifangguochengdexiangfa。

gangdaohegangshizhengfengzhongqiujie,xiazheyu。heqitaxiaochengyiyang,hegangdenianqingrenliushidefeichangyanzhong。juwoguancha,dangdibulunnianqinghaishinianzhang,dourenweiliuzaihegangshimeiyouxiwangde。zheiliwanquanbushishenmexiyinbendinianqingrenhuiliude“shiwaitaoyuan”。

womenzaigongyuanlipengdaoyigezaifangchelichuisakesidelaodaye。tashidingjuzaiwaididehegangren,congsuzhouzijiahuilai,erzizaishanghaimailefang。suirantingshuohegangjinnianfazhanbucuo,dantarengranjuede,ruguohailiuzaihegang,neishimeichuxide。womenhaipaisheleyigezaibeijingzuohulianwangdehegangnianqingren,tadeguandianleisi:qianxinianhou,congzuijichudejiaoyukaishi,zheilideyiqiedouzaigaosunianqingren,kaochuqu,biehuilai。buguo,hegangdezouhongranghenduowaimiandenianqingrenlaidaozheigedifang,kenenghuidailaixindejiyu。

wohoulaiyepaisheguoqitachengshi,yutamenxiangbi,hegangzuimingxiandexiyinlishifangjiabianyi。zheigeyinsujilehenduorenzuichudekenengxing,rangtamenkeyimeiyoufudandiqibu,xiangyaodeshenghuohuimanmanfuxian。

wolejiede“hepiao”yangbentaixiao,kongpabuzuyizhanxianwailairendequanmao。 “liaoshang”shiwojieshide“hepiao”zhongbijiaotuchudeyigetedian,biruduanpianpaishedegeshoudiya,tashipeizheyiyuzhengdelaopoyiqilaidehegang。wohenpeifuyixienvhaiyuanchengmaifangdeyongqi,dantamenzaijingtouqianbutaiyuanyitouluzijidegushi。meitidebaodaoduihenduolaihegangderenyerongyizaochengshanghai,tamenbenxiangzhuiqiuyushigejuedeshenghuo,buxiangbeiguoduodarao。yinci,tamenweishenmeyuanliqinpenghaoyoulaidaohegang,zheixiegushishijilupianwufazhijiepaidaode。

maifangbudengyu“anjia”,tazhishirenmenhuodeanquangandefangshizhiyi。bumaifang,huozhemeiyougudingdejusuo,yekeyiyoubutongdeshenghuofangshi。paiwanhegangzhihou,wohetuanduijixupaishelexiliejilupian《qunaanjia》,guancharenmenruhexunzhaolixiangdeshenghuo。womenquhuzhouanjipaishe“shuziyoumin”,quhangzhouqingshancunbaifangzuoshejishidexincunmin,qudalitanfangxinxingjiaoyu。

zaishandongrushan,youyigebeichengwei“guicheng”dedifang,womenpengdaoyige76suizijiafangcheluguocididelaonainai。youhenduotuixiulaorenyijurushan,shenghuodedouhenkaixin,chongmanhuoli。zaimeiyigegushili,zheixiedifangdoubuzhishilvyoudian,yijuzhehuihedangdifashengguanxi,xindeshenghuoyehuishengzhangchulai。

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航拍鹤岗。
鹤岗航拍,选煤厂。
航拍鹤岗国家矿山公园。
鹤岗国家矿山公园。
航拍鹤岗居民楼。
鹤岗街头的房屋广告。
鹤岗街头,高层楼房。
鹤岗本地探店博主小杨手机里的草稿,记录下了鹤岗房价与房屋地理位置的关系。
一套保障性住房内部。这类户型房屋的厨房都设置在阳台上。
航拍鹤岗。
来自广东的康叔展示了一套装修了80%的房子,本是康叔帮一个19岁女孩买下的,当时花了3万7千元。后来女孩一时冲动不要这套房了,康叔自己便把它买了下来,想把它们改成民宿。
鹤岗某小区住宅。
来自温州的静静也在鹤岗买了房。她在直播,男友在一旁摆摊。
静静与男友在鹤岗的居所。
王小宝是鹤岗本地人,现在是一名北漂。
婷婷是一名来自成都的美容师,她在鹤岗远程买了房,后来还租了一家店铺。
歌手迪亚在展示自己老婆的照片。在发现老婆患抑郁症后,他决定带着她一起来鹤岗生活。他形容在这个城市里“谁也不认识谁”,并且,这里的猪肉六块多一斤,“你说那还叫钱了?”
鹤岗街景。
鹤岗的早市。
当早餐店老板听说摄制团队是上海来的,说:“远道而来的,好好招待招待。”
鹤岗菜场物价。
鹤岗公园里演奏乐器的人。
鹤岗街头。
鹤岗公园里跳舞的人。
鹤岗街头。
鹤岗风光。

 

——完——

本文采访者蔡星卓,界面摄影记者。

*除特殊标注外,文中图片来自纪录片《在鹤岗安家》及素材截图

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