界面新闻记者 |
beijingshijian10yue18rishangwu,ruishidulijiazuzhibiaoshangbaidafeili(patek philippe)zaideguomuniheifabuzuixinxilieshiji“patek philippe cubitus”。zheishiyigequanxindexilieshiji,duliyubaidafeiliaquanautxilie、nautilusxilie、calatravaxilie、golden ellipsexilie、twenty~4nvshixiliedengduogexilie。
zhidezhuyideshi,julibaidafeilishangcifabuquanxinxilieshijiyijingguoqujin25nian。1999nian,baidafeilituichule“twenty~4”nvshiwanbiaoxiliewanbiao,cihoude20duonianshijiannei,baidafeiliyizhizhiliyukuochonggegexilie,shizhongmeiyouzaituichuyigequanxindulidechanpinxinghao。cifantuichuquanxincubitusxiliekeshiweipinpaikaiqileyigexindejieduan。
baidafeiliciciyikouqituichulesankuanquanxinshiji,zuoweiquanxincubitusxiliedexianfengshoufaxinzuo。zheisankuanwanbiaofenbieshiyikuanbojincaizhideshuntiaochaodarili、xingqiyuyuexiangxianshide5822p-001 cubituswanbiao,yimeibuxiugangkuanderiqixianshi、zhongxindamiaozhen5821/1a-001 cubituswanbiao,yijiyimeimeiguijinyubuxiugangshuangsekuandezhongxindamiaozhen5821/1ar-001 cubituswanbiao。
首发三款Cubitus系列新作有一个统一的标志性特点,即其直径45haomideliangjianshifangxingbiaoqiaocaiyongleyuanrunbianyuanheshuangcebiaoerdesheji,zheiyubaidafeiliqitajingdianxilieyouzhexianzhudewaiguanshejichayi。
jinguanyupinpaiqitawanbiaoxilieyousuobutong,danzheisankuanquanxinshijiyouchuchuyanxizhebaidafeilihaohuayundongwanbiaodejingdianfengge。
bianhaowei5822p-001dequanxinwanbiaoshizhenggecubitusxiliededaibiaozhizuo,fenggeqianweidadan,tongshijianjuyouyafengdu。gaixinzuozhijing45haomidefangxingbiaoqiaohebiaoquancaiyongbojincaizhi,zaoxingbiezhi、xianboyouya,dazaoguochengzhongcaiyongleduibixianmingdechuizhiduanwenmoshayupaoguangzhuangshigongyi。zhidezhuyideshi,gaiwanbiaobiaoquan6dianzhongweizhihaixiangqianleyikezhangxingzuanshi。
zheimeiwanbiaodelanserihuiwenbiaopanyipinpaibiaozhixingdeshuipinghengwenfudiaotuanjinxingzhuangshi,tongshidazaileshiyouzhiwutuandehaijunlanfuhecaizhibiaodai,linlizhangxianxiuxianyouyameili。
zaigongnengshang,zheimeicubitusxinzuodezhongyangzhizhenxianshixiaoshihefenzhong,tongshizai4shi30fendeweizhidazailexiaomiaozhenbiaopan,zai7shiweizhidazaileyigexingqixianshibiaopan。
bujinruci,biaopan12shiweizhiyouchaodariqixianshi,shiyigeshiweijigeweishudeshuangxianshichuang。lingwai,zai7shiweizhihaipeibeileyuexiangxianshi。
zheikuanduogongnengdecubitusxinzuodazailebaidafeiliquanxinkaifade240 ps cij luchaobozidongshangxianjixin。zheishibaidafeilijiyujingdianzhizuo240chaobozidongshangxianjixinsuoyanfachudexinkuanjixin。tazaiyanxuyuankuanjixindekeduxing、jingzhunduyuxianboganciwai,gexiangchuangxinjishuyiquebaolechaodariqishuzidejingzhunduiqi,bingqieshixiansuoyouxianshigongnengdetongshidiaoxiao。
gaijixindeshangxianbaituowei22kjindepianxinminizidongpan,keshixianzhishao38xiaoshi、zhiduo48xiaoshidedonglichucun。zaizheikuanquanxinchaobozidongshangxianjixindeyanfaguochengzhong,baidafeiliyijingshenqingleliuxiangteshuzhuanli,zhuyaoshejigexiangxianshidenenghaoguanliyu18haomiaotongshishuntiao。
第二枚全新Cubitus时计(编号为5821/1A-001)的表盘则采用了橄榄绿色,以百达翡丽标志性的rihuiwenjinxingzhuangshi,fuyishuipinghengwenfudiaotuan。zheikuanwanbiaobiaoqiaoshiyonglebuxiugangcaizhi,erbuxiugangbiaolianzepeibeilebaidafeilizhuanlizhedieshibiaokou,neihankesuodingdiaojiezhuangzhi,quebaopeidaishushilaogu。
这枚腕表同样采用了Cubitus系列标志性的45haomizhijingfangxingbiaoqiaohebiaoquan,waiguandamodeshihoubaoliulepaoguangyuchuizhiduanwenmoshazheiliangzhongduibixianmingyouhuweiyingchendeshimian。
这是一款大三针和中心大秒针腕表,在3点钟位置有日期显示窗,配备白金立体边框。该款Cubitus时计dazailebaidafeilizizhuyanfade26-330 s czidongshangxianjixin,zheishijiyu2019niantuichude26-330jichujixindazaode,jubeishishijianshezhijingzhunzhimiaodetingmiaogongneng,yijiningjulezhuyaoshejishangxianxitongdeduoxiangjishuchuangxin。gaijixinde21kjinzhongyangzidongpanzhuiyihuyingbiaopandeshuipinghengwentuan,keshixianzhishao35xiaoshi、zhiduo45xiaoshidedonglichucun。
daozheiliyijingbunankanchu,quanxincubitusxilieshijisuiranzaiwaiguanshangyubaidafeilideqitaxiliewanbiaoyouxianzhubutong,xingchengyizhongxindeshejimianmao,danzaichanpinqizhi、xuancaihepeiseshangyupinpaiguoqutuichudehaohuayundongwanbiaorengranyouchuanchengheyanxu。
以橄榄绿表盘的这款不锈钢材质的自动上弦Cubitus新作(编号为5821/1A-001)为例,它与百达翡丽在2021年推出的一枚不锈钢款材质的橄榄绿Nautilus腕表(5711/1A)在外观上和功能上有很多相似之处,唯有前者是全新的fangxingbiaoqiaosheji,erhouzheshiyuanrundebajiaoxingbiaopansheji。
值得注意的是,百达翡丽已经于2021年底停产了Nautilus系列5711型号腕表。而2021年上半年推出的那枚橄榄绿、不锈钢材质nautiluswanbiaoyechengweizheiyixinghaode“juechang”。
另外,这次推出的不锈钢材质橄榄绿表盘Cubitus新作的公价为36.6万元人民币,这在百达翡丽的众多昂贵的时计中却是相对入门级的价格。某种程度上看,这枚Cubitus新作也可视为百达翡丽对旗下入门级产品矩阵的补充。
2021年末,百达翡丽停产了Nautilus系列的5711型号腕表。该系列最后一枚橄榄绿、不锈钢材质的nautiluswanbiaodangshideguanfangshoujiawei26.28wanyuanrenminbi。
zai2021nianzhi2022nianjian,baidafeiliyouluxutuichuleduokuanquanxinnautilusxiliewanbiao,zheixiewanbiaoyanxulenautilusxiliebiaozhixingdewaiguansheji,dankaishidaliangcaiyongzuanshi、caisebaoshi、guijinshucaizhizuoweizhuangshi。
zhenggenautilusxilieliangnianneichuxianleduomei18khuangjin、meiguijin、baijinkuanwanbiao,biaoquanhuobiaoshenmixiangtianranzuanshi、caisebaoshideng,dafutigaolegaixilieshijidepingjundingjia。liru,2022niantuichude5811lanpanbaijinkuannautilusxiliewanbiaodeguanfanglingshoudingjiawei64.2wanyuanrenminbi。
“我们已经做了够多(钢款腕表)。”百达翡丽总裁Thierry Stern当时对表示,Nautilus系列腕表从钢款材质转向采用贵金属是为品牌长远利益考虑。当时整个市场趋向于高端化,而贵金属材质的超豪华腕表具备另类投资属性,更受高消费人群的青睐。
lingyifangmian,buxiugangkuannautilusxiliewanbiaozaishichangshangdegongxuguanxiyanzhongbuduideng,《niuyueshibao》huodedeshujuxianshi,zaitingchanqianzheikuanwanbiaodequanqiudengdaimingdanyijingpaidao8nianyihou,qierjishichangjiageyeyincibeichaodexugao。zuoweipinpaichiyouzheheguanlizhedesternjiazurenwei,youyumeiniantishengchanliangyouxian,zaibaozhengzhiliangdeqingkuangxia,zhongzhixiaoshoushizhonggongbuyingqiudegangkuannautiluswanbiaoshichuyuduipinpaidebaohu。
thierry sternyu2024nian8yuedizai,“dangwojuedingtingchan5711xingwanbiao,zheishigezhongyaodexinghao,mubiaoshiweichiwanbiaoxiliewanzheng。zheigexiliepeibeibutongshejihejixin。wobuhuizhimaiyizhongwanbiao,yinweizheifeichangweixian。niyongyuanbuzhidaoweilaifashengshenmeshi。gukejintiankansixiangshouqizhong,mingribianhuiduicigandaoyanjuan。”
zaicizhihoudeyiduanshijiannei,baidafeilideaquanautxilietuichudebuxiugangkuanwanbiaoquebaolepinpaizairumenjijiagedaiyouchanpindechixugongying。danzheisihuhaibuzuyimibugangkuannautilusxilie5711xinghaowanbiaotingchanyihouzaochengdekongbai,shishishangbaidafeilirengxuyaoyigeqiangyouliderumenjixinpinlai“jiedang”。
thierry sternzai2023nian3yuejieshoucaifangshijiubiaoshi,jiagegengdideshoubiaorengranshibaidafeilichanpinjiegouzhongdeguanjianzuchengbufen。“nibuyinggaizhishengchanbaiwanmeiyuanshoubiao,niyebushizhiyoufeichangfeichangfuyudekeren。”thierry sternbiaoshi,“womenyoufeichangzhongqingyushoubiaodekeren,dantamenzaiyimeishoubiaoshangdezuidakaixiaoshi3wanmeiyuanzhi4wanmeiyuan(yuehe21.3wanzhi24.8wanyuanrenminbi,zheishibukaolvzhongguoshichangshuifeihehuilvdejiage)——zheiyijingshiyibibuxiaodejinele。”
kaolvdaozheiyidian,baidafeilizai2023nianderineiwa“zhongbiaoyuqiji”gaojizhongbiaozhanshangjiutoululejijiangtuichuyigequanxinxinghaodexiliechanpin。“shejiyijingwanchengle,chanpinyuanxingyeyijingchulu,wozhendefeichangxihuanta。”thierry sterndangshiduipengboxinwenbiaoshi,yidanxinpinsuoxudesuoyouyuansudouzhunbeidaowei,jiuhuizai2023niandihuozhe2024niandemougeshijianduanfabu。
zuizhong,baidafeilixuanzezaidangqianzheigeshijiandianfabulezheikuanganlanlvbiaopan、buxiugangcaizhidezidongshangxiancubitusxinzuo。
当然,整个全新Cubitus系列并不是只为了兼顾百达翡丽的入门级藏家所打造的。从前文提到的铂金款瞬跳超大日历、星期与月相显示的Cubitus腕表(编号5822P-001),到此次首发的第三枚meiguijinyubuxiugangshuangse、sanzhenheriqixianshicubituswanbiao(bianhao5821/1ar-001),doucaiyonghuorongruleguijinshucaizhi,zheiyecuchengletamenjiaobuxiugangganlanlvkuangengjiagaoangdedingjia。
quanxinmeiguijinyubuxiugangshuangsecubituswanbiaotongyangcaiyongdeshi45haomizhijingfangxingbiaoqiaosheji,qiaomiaojiehelepaoguangyuchuizhiduanwenmoshaliangzhongshimian,jiaoxianghuiyingzhanxiandianyajingzhidemeixuefengge。
gaiwanbiaobiaopanyecaiyonglelanserihuiwen,bingfuyishuipinghengwenfudiaotuanjinxingzhuangshi。qidapeiyoufubaiseyingguangtucengdemeiguijinlitibadunshishibiaohebadunshiyuantouzhizhen,fenggeyouya、qingxiyidu。
这枚腕表在功能上与不锈钢、橄榄绿表盘的Cubitus新作保持一致,也是搭载了具备停秒功能的26-330 SC自动上弦机芯。该腕表采用两件式结构,配备旋入式表冠,防水性能经过专业认证,可陪伴佩戴者进行深度30米以内的所有潜水运动。
这款玫瑰金和不锈钢双色自动上弦Cubitus腕表的公价是54.47万元人民币,而铂金款的自动上弦复杂功能Cubitus腕表的公价则是78.56wanyuanrenminbi。
值得注意的是,百达翡丽为全新Cubitus系列的首发三款时计分别都配备了成套的袖扣。
bojinkuandexiukoushiyouhuyingbiaoqiaoxingzhuangdebaijinbiankuang,lanserihuiwenzhongxindianzhuishuipinghengwenfudiaotuan,erbuxiugangcaizhideganlanlvkuanpeibeidexiukouzezaibaijinbiankuangdeshejixia,caiyongleganlanlvserihuiwenzhongxindianzhuishuipinghengwenfudiaotuan。
ermeiguijinhebuxiugangshuangsekuanpeibeidechengduixiukouzeshiyouhuyingbiaoqiaoxingzhuangdemeiguijinbiankuang,zhongxindianzhuishuipinghengwenfudiaotuan。
百达翡丽此前在不同的媒体见面会上曾透露,品牌Nautilus系列具备140个型号,事实上每年在引进新型号腕表的时候,也会选择停产某些型号腕表,以确保整个产品结构不会过于庞大。由于百达翡丽当前的年产量在70000meizuoyou,zheiyiweizhemeikuanwanbiaodechanliangjiubuhuitaida。
而随着全新Cubitusxiliedejiaru,baidafeilizongtichanliangdefenpeihuoyejiangfashengbianhua。
thierry sternzai2021nianjieshoujiemianxinwencaifangshicengtidao,baidafeilihuimeinianxiaofuduzengjiachanliangyiyingduishichangxuqiu。danxianshiqingkuangshi,baidafeilimeinianzhangfuzai1%dao3%zhijian,zheiyangweixiaodezhangfuyiranwufamanzuquanqiushichangdejudaweikou。
weilegaishanzheigeqingkuang,baidafeilizai2023nian3yuezuochuleyigejueding——jingjianquanqiulingshouwangluo,congqichuquanqiu725jialingshoudianjianshaozhi260jia。zheiyiweizhezuichudelingshoudianshuliangyubaidafeilideqiwangshuliangxiangbi,jiangshixianyue65%dejianfu。jiezhi2024nian8yue,baidafeiliquanqiulingshoudianshuliangyijingjianshaozhidayue273jia。
zheigeguochengbingfeiyishi,yinweizheiyijuedingyiweizhepinpaiyaodapoyuzhuduohezuohuobanduonianlaijianlidejinmihezuoguanxi。baidafeilishouxianguanbileneixieyejibiaoxianbuhaodeshouquanlingshoushangmendian。jiezheyouyijudianpuxuanzhizuoleshanjian,neixiebuzaichuzaichengshizhongxinhuonaoshiqudemendianbudebubeifangqidiao。
erneixiebeibaoliuxialaidepuweiheshouquanlingshoushangmen,baidafeiliyetichulexindeyaoqiu。biru,shouquanlingshoushangbixuzaimendianzhongzhanshiganggangshoudaodezuixinpiciwanbiao,yizhidaoxiayipihuopindaodianyihoucainengbaqianyipicidewanbiaomaidiao。
baidafeililingshouwangluogaigedemubiaojibenyijingwancheng,zheiduiyuganggangtuichudequanxincubitusxilieeryanshilingyizhongbaozhang。zhishaoxiancundepuweiyaobiguoqugengrongyiranggukekandaoxinpin。sternjiazujingjianlingshouwangluohendayibufenyuanyinshiyinweiyiqianmeiyouzugoudechanpinlaimanzuneimeduoqudaoshang。
在今年早些时候接受界面新闻采访时Thierry Stern表示,“我并没有足够的产品,也没有其他零售商愿意接受分配减少的情况。所以对我来说,保持这种平衡非常重要。”
值得注意的是,这两年百达翡丽jingjianquanqiulingshouwangluodejuecehetanpanguochengyeyoulesternjiazudiwudaijichengrendecanyu。muqiankeyiquerendeshi,thierry sterndelianggeerziadrien sternhetristan sternjunjihuajiarujiazuqiyegongzuo,eradrien sternyijinglvxiancanyudaojiazushengyizhonglai。zai2024nian5yue,zheilianggenianqingdejichengrenhaigensuifuqincanyulebaidafeilibeijingyuandishizhounianqingdianhuodong。
zaipinpaibiangetupo、guanlicengxinjiuliangdaijiaotideshihouwenshi,baidafeiliquanxincubitusxiliecongdanshengzhichukenengjiudaizhemouzhongchuangxindeshiming。zaiguoqumeiyouyigexinxiliechuxiandejin25nianli,yeqiahaoshibaidafeilixiayidaijichengrendanshenghechengzhangdeyigezhouqi。
suizhexinyidaijiebanrenkaishicanyujiazushiwu,pinpaidechanpinshejidengfangfangmianmianyejiangshoudaonianqingyidaideyingxiang。genjuthierry sternjieshao,adrienhetristanyijingkaishicanyurineiwazongbudeshejihuiyi,bingjichutamenzijideyijian。“worenweizheifeichangyouqu,yinweitamenyouxindexiangfa,zheishixinyidai。suoyiwoyebixushiyingnianqingyidaidepinwei,tongshiyebunengshiqushangyidaidepinwei。”
“meiyourenzhenzhengyongyoubaidafeili,zhibuguoweixiayidaibaoguaneryi。”——zheishibaidafeilidejingdianguanggaoyu。shishishang,baidafeilizaiguoqu28niandeshijianlicongweigenghuanguoguanggaoqihua,yecongweijianduanshiyongzheiyiguanggaoyu。baidafeilirenweizheigeguanggaoyuzhenshidefanyinglepinpairenkedejiazhiguan,jigulicaifu、zhihuiheguannianzaidaijizhijiandeyanxu,renweijinglishijiankaoyanerbaoliuxialaideshiwuyuguanniancaijubeilejiazhi。
但传承并不意味着放弃创新,事实上对于家族企业而言维持传统与创新之间天平的秘诀是他们长盛不衰的关键。而在过去几年,百达翡丽正通过多方面的努力来紧跟不断变化的市场环境,其中就包括在经过一系列商品组合的调整后推出了25年第一个全新独立的Cubitus系列。
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