记者 | 周卓然

wangyuanyuanyijingbujide，zheishitadijicimaipoloshanle。tabusuanzhongdushishangxiaofeizhe，danyezhidaoshuqiyiling、chuanshangxiongkouxiuzhemaqiubiaodepoloshanshizhongguonanxingmenzuichangxiangdaodeshimaoxuanze。

jiangzheikuanfushihemaqiubiaozhifayangguangdaderenzhengshimeiguoshejishiralph lauren，qunian，qitongmingpinpaigangzaiquanqiufanweineijubanwan50zhounianqingdian。chushengyulaogongjiatingderalph laurenjiangxiaozuofangfazhanchengbaohangaoduanfushi、jiaju、tongzhuangdengduoyuanchanpinxiandeshechipinwangguo，kanchengmeiguomengdedaibiao。erzigaipinpaizai1990niandaiyushanghaikaichudiyijiadianhou，tasuochengzaidemeishigaoduanshenghuofangshiyejinerzaizhongguofajiao。

raner，bansuizhewushuzhongguonanxingzai20nianjianshuqiyiling，zhongguoyechengweileshanzhaipolodezhongzaiqu。weiduikangshangbiaoqiangzhu、jiahuodengzhishichanquanwenti，ralph laurenzoushanglemanmansusongzhilu。

一场已持续三年的诉讼

2018nianxiabannian，ralph laurenzaiyiqishangbiaozhengyianjiandeyishenzhongbaisu。ralph laurendequanzizigongsiboluo/laolunyouxiangongsiyuguojiagongshangxingzhengguanlizongjushangbiaopingshenweiyuanhuideyishenxingzhengpanjuedepanjueshuxianshi，beijingzhishichanquanfayuanbohuileyuangaoboluo/laolunyouxiangongsidesusongqingqiu，weichileguangzhouaichipijianyouxiangongsiguanyu“polo sport”jituxingshangbiaodengxilieshangbiaodezhuce。

guangzhouaichipijianyouxiangongsichengliyu2008nian11yue5ri，zhucedizhiweiguangzhoushibaiyunqutonghezhenyishunjie。jujiemianshishangchayueguojiazhishichanquanjushangbiaojuwangzhanfaxian，gaigongsiqixiabaokuopolo sport、polo club、polo world、polo、 polo golfdengshugepinpai，yongyoushitimendianguobaijia，qizhongbufayoupinpaidezhuceshangbiaoyuralph laurendemaqiutuanshifenxiangjin，jinzaidamaqiushideshou、renwudewanyaochengdudengxijiechucunzaibutong。

weiboshangyeyouxiaofeizhefenxiangzijidegouyijingli。yiweimingjiaoxingkongdewangyouxiedao：“jintianmailejianyifu，yiweizheishimeiguolafulaolunsidepolo sportxilie，wohaishitainianqing。”lingyiweizeshuo：“bushisuoyouwuyinliangpindoushimuji，bushisuoyouqiaodandoushiqiaodan，polo sport gengbushiralph lauren。”

yinbufupanjuejieguo，boluo/laolunyouxiangongsihenkuaijixushangsuzhibeijingshigaojirenminfayuan。juzhiqingrenxiangjiemianshishangbiaoshi，ralph laurentaidujianjue，yinyouduocibaisu、zuizhongzaizuigaoyuanqudeshenglide“qiaodanan”dexianli，pinpaifangrujinduiyuzijizaigaoyuanfananyebaoyijidadeqidai。

shishishang，zheichangshangbiaozhengduanzhijinyichixule3nian。2015nianniandi，yixiezhongguobentulingshoushangkaishishiyongpolo sportwenzishangbiaozaishanghaikaipimendian，gaipinpaichanpinshangdemaqiubiaoshi、mendianzhuanghuangdefenggedengyinqileralph laurenfangmiandezhuyi。

2016nian6yue，ralph laurenzhengshizaishanghaizhishichanquanfayuan、shanghaixuhuiqurenminfayuan、shanghaihuangpuqurenminfayuan、shanghaiyangpuqurenminfayuantiqileshangbiaoqinquan、zhuzuoquanqinquanjibuzhengdangjingzhengsusong，beigaoweimeiguoboluogongsijiqizhongguodebeixukerenhefenxiaoshang，ruqianchejinxiangguananjiandegongsijiuyouguangzhouaichipijianyouxiangongsi、shanghairuifafushiyouxiangongsi、shanghaiqianshengfuzhuangyouxiangongsi、guangzhouboluowopijuyouxiangongsi、qingyuanshihuahaozhibopijufushizhipinyouxiangongsi、guangzhouhuahaoshiyeyouxiangongsidengshushijia。

meiguoboluogongsidechuangshirenxilijinliang，tatongshizaiguangzhouaichipijianyouxiangongsizhongchigu78%。julejiegaianjiandezhiqingrenxiangjiemianshishangbiaoshi，ralph laurenfangmianzaishangsushuzhongjuzheng，lijinliangzai2011nianjiesanlekongqiaomeiguoboluogongsi，bingzai2016nianjiangmeiguoboluogongsiqixiashangbiaojunzhuanrangjileguangzhouaichigongsi。

3nianlai，ralph laurendefalvtuanduizhuyaoweiweiquanzhidinglesangecelve。diyileianjianshiqisulijinliangmingxiaqiyejigejifenxiaoshang，zhuzhangshangbiaoqinquan、zhuzuoquanqinquanhebuzhengdangjingzheng，muqiangaianhaiweizuochuyishenpanjue；dierleiweizoushangbiaofaxingzhengchengxu，zhuzhangshangbiaojuchexiaozhengyishangbiao；disanleizeshiyingduiqiangzhushangbiaochiyoufangduizijidesusong。

dierleianjianzuijinyeyoulexinjinzhan。2019yue3yue6ri10dian30fen，guangzhouaichipijianyouxiangongsiheguojiagongshangxingzhengguanlizongjushangbiaopingshenweiyuanhuideyishenjinxingletingshen。zaitingshenxianchang，jiemianshishangzhuyidaoguangzhouaichipijianyouxiangongsidesusongdailirenzhichuleqixiapinpaisuishiyonglemaqiushangbiao，danyuanjiandisanren——meiguopinpairalph laurenjiqizipinpaidancizuhebutong（ralph laurenweipolo，guangzhouaichiweipolo sport）、fayinbujinsi、maqiuyundongtuanjuyoupubianxing、qiejingguoduonianjingyingyijuyouxiaofeizheshibiexing，gubuyuralph laurenjiqizipinpaigouchengjinsishangbiaodengqingkuang。

zheixiebianhuchenshucengzailiangzheguoqudeshugeanjianzhongduocichuxian，yeshipandingliangfangzhengyishangbiaoshifoujinsidezhuyaojiaodian。

shuoshihua，tianxiameiyouaidaguansideshangren。danjinnianlai，heralph laurenyiyangdewaizishenghuofangshipinpaizhengyuelaiyueduodijuanrudaozhongguodezhishichanquansusongzhong。

2018nian10yue，zhongguozuigaorenminfayuanduiyidalishechipinpaiermenegildo zegnayuzhongguopinpaiyves zegnoazhijianzhangda5niandeqinquanzhengyizuochulezuizhongpanjue，pandinghouzheduigaizhuceshangbiaodeeyishiyong，queshiqinfanleermenegildo zegnadezhishichanquan。

gaianbei《nvzhuangribao》pingjiawei“feizhongguogongsishoucizaizhongguojingneihuodezhishichanquanqinquananjiandeshengsu，shijuyoulichengbeiyiyidepanjue。”youyushangbiaoqinquananhennanjianding，ciqianzhongguoduiyugaileianjiandepanjuezuiduoyejinjinshichengrenlianggepinpaizhijianjuyouyidingdexiangsixing。

可是没过几天，日本生活方式品牌无印良品又爆出因商标侵权案败诉。

juxiangguananjianpanjueshumiaoshu，zhengyishangbiaozaiyufugaimianzhipin、maojin、chuangdan、zhentaohebeizhaodengchanpinde24lei，zaizhongguo，riben“wuyinliangpin”beizhucede24leishangbiaozuizaoyouhainannanhuashiyemaoyigongsizhuce，youxiaoqizhi2021nian4yue27ri，houbeizhuanzhicicixiangguansusongdeyuangaofang——zai2000nianchenglidebeijingmiantianfangzhipingongsishouzhong。

2019年3月，来自意大利的“山寨”Supreme也在上海高调开店，美国潮牌Supreme也正式宣布向中国官方寻求行政保护。zaiciqiandecaifangzhong，yiyoubushaorenbiaoshiwufabianbiebencizaishanghaikaishedianpudepinpaisupreme italiahedanshengyumeiguodechaopaisupremecunzaibutong。

eryidalibansupremeyusanxingdewulonghezuo，zejinyibuzhengmingleshangbiaoqinquanwentizhengzaijidaganraozhongguolingshouchanyedeshangyezhixu。

代理的锅，直营不背

shishishang，cong2011niankaishi，meinianwoguogejirenminfayuanshoulideshangbiaoqinquananjiandeshuliangjiuyizhichengxianshangshengqushi。zaijinrihejiemianshishangdecaifangzhong，huojinluweiguojilvsuozhishichanquanhehuorenfengzhenbiaoshi，zheibeihoudequdongyuanyinshiduofangmiande。

“lifacengmian， 2013nian《shangbiaofa》dexiugaijiadaleduizhuceshangbiaodebaohulidu。sifacengmian，gejifayuanyezaibuduantanjiuruhezaixianyoudeminshisusongzhiduxiajiaqiangduizhuceshangbiaodebaohu，youqishitongguohelirendingqinquanpeichangshueyichongfenbuchangquanlirenshoudaodesunshi，yijitongguochengfaxingpeichanglaidajieyiqinquanren。zheixielaizilifa、sifacengmiandejijixinhaorangquanlirengengyouyiyuanqutiqishangbiaoqinquansusong。”

lingyifangmian，fuzhuangpinpaidexiangguangongzhonggengjiaguangfan，jingyingfushibiyixiexingye（rujingyingyiliaoqixie、jinrongfuwu）dezhunrumenjiandi，yinci，fushixingyedepinpaigengrongyichengweibeiqiangzhudemubiao，shangbiaoqiangzhuanjianyebijiao“xijing”。duiyuyixiehuranbaohongdepinpai，ruguopinpaifangzaipinpaichengzhangdeguochengzhongshangweicaiqubijiaoquanfangmiandeshangbiaozhucezhengce，jiuyoukenengjuedexingfulaidetaikuai，duituranzengzhangdeshangbiaoqiangzhuyouxiecuoshoubuji。

haozaisuizhezhimingwaiguofushipinpaiheshechipinpaiyijingbajingxiaomoshizhuanweizhiyingmoshi，tamenxianzainenggougengzhijiediganzhidaojiamaochanpin、qitaleixingdeshangbiaoqinquanchanpinduiqixiaoshouyejiyijishangyuchanshengdexiaojiyingxiang，yinciyeyougengduodedongliqudajishangbiaoqinquan。

fengzhenshuo：“ziwobiaodashifushixingyehuozheshechixingyexiaofeidequshi，zheixiexingyegerenzhuyisecaibijiaoqiang，wogerenrenweizheizhongxingyewenhuahuozhetezhiyehuishidezheigexingyexiangduiqitaxingye（rushipin、maoyideng）gengyuanyizaiyushangbiaoyouguandeanjianshanghuafeifalvfeiyong。”

deque，ruguohuikanralph laurendeanjian，huifaxiantafaqisusongdeshijianzhenghaoyudiaozhengquanqiujingyingcelvedeshijianwenhe。2010nian1yue1riyiqian，polo ralph laurenheralph laurendeshangbiaoheshangpinjunshijieyouxianggangdishengchuangjiangongsijinxingfenxiao，deyixunsuzaizhongguogedachengshikaidian。

danshi，guoyuzhongshixiaoshoushuzidedailishangjuebuhuihepinpaizijiyiyangaixiyumao，tamenjihubuhuitourujingliqubaohupinpaijiazhi，ergengshanzhangtongguodaliangzhanlingqudaohedazheqiangduoshichangfene。

zaonianjian，yixieyixianchengshideshequxingbaihuoheersanxianchengshideshangyedichanzaizhaoshangshibingbuhuiduipinpaizizhijinxingyangeshenhe，jinyibucushilepolo sportdengpinpaijinrulewandaguangchangdengduogeshangchang，duirujinralph laurenzhengmingzijishangbiaodechimingxing、shichangshifoucunzailingxiaofeizhehunxiaodepinpaidengwentizaochenglekunnan。julejie，supremeyefaxianzaizhongguoyudaoleleisiwenti。

zhengruboluo/laolunyouxiangongsiyuguojiagongshangxingzhengguanlizongjushangbiaopingshenweiyuanhuideyishenxingzhengpanjuedepanjueshuzhongxiedao：“suzhengshangbiaozishenqingzhucehouyijingguoleguangfandaliangdeshiyong，xingchengleyidingdeshichangzhimingdu，qiezaifuzhuangshichangshangshijicunyouyidingshuliangdeyimaqiuyundongtuxingzuoweishangbiaodetongyejingyingzhe，yincixiangguangongzhongzaiyudaocileituxingshangbiaoshiwangwanghuishiyigenggaodezhuyili，jibiansuzhengshangbiaoyuyinzhengshangbiaojuyouyidingchengdudejinsixing，yishangkebeixiangguangongzhongsuoqufen。”

huiguoshenlaideralph laurenweileshouhuidailiquan，yu2009nianhedishengchuangjianxuangaofenshou。2013nian，ralph laurenyaochedizaizhongguozhongxinlaiguo，tamenbaneididiyijiazhiyingdianfangzaileshanghaibandaojiudianzhong，jinlinchanelheprada，zhanlvezhongxincongpolozhuanxianglegaoduanzhuxianhegengshechipindezipinpaipurple & black label，bingjiangzhongguoqugongsizhucemingcong“baoluolaerfulaolun（shanghai）youxiangongsi”gaiwei“laerfulaolunmaoyi（shanghai）youxiangongsi”。

zheishiyinweizhiyingmoshixuyaojianligengmingquehezhuanshudepinpaixingxiang，yinciduishangbiaoshiyongdengquanxiantichulegenggaodeyaoqiu。weileheshimianshangfanlandejinsichanpinyumaqiutuanqiege，susongchengweilebixingzhilu。

“zhongguoshishangdaolebudebuzhimianzhishichanquanchenkejiujideshihou。jiahuorangyuanchuangzhechibubao，xingyehaizenmefazhanxiaqu？”yiweibentufuzhuangshejishiduijiemianshishangshuo。

ersuizhejinnianlaiipjingjidebaofa，pinpaijiazhigengshizailianminghekuajiezhongnengdeyitixian。qianzhenzi，chaneljinyibuqiangdiaoqishangbiaozaiwenzishangdebiaoxianxingshi，quanweidaxiezimu。zara、burberrydengpinpaiyexiangjidiaozhenglogo，zheiduiyusuqingjileidejiahuowentiyouyidingbangzhu。

bijingshechipinyinxiyoueranggui，shishangyinnengyinlingerfeigensuichaoliuercunzai，meiduoyigefangzaopin，douzaidadabiansunyuansuoyouquanrendeliyikongjian。zheiyeshisupremehaiweijinruzhongguo、queyijingdashangleguansideyuanyin。

dangzhongguozaiguojilingshoushichangshangdezhanlvediweitigao，dajiadouzaijinliangzhengqudangdixiaofeizhedezhuyi，xiangyingdi，haiwaipinpaizaizhongguodeyemanshengzhangshidaiyexuangaolezhongjie。

听CEO、创意总监、还是法律顾问的？

buguo，jingyingqiyeshigefuzadeguocheng，guanlizhedeshijiaoyoushibingbuhuiwanquanhefalvcongyezheyizhi。yinci，chuleduikangwaibuqinquanzhe，shishangchanyeyeyaopinghengneibubutongzhinengzhijiandekaoliang。

juyigelizi，yidalishechipinbottega venetashigezaichanpinshangmeiyoulogodepinpai，tadeshangbiaocengzaiyidalizaoyuqisu，beixuangaolewuxiao。zhanzaiweiquanjiaodu，falvguwendangranhuijianyipinpaishelizijidelogo，yifangbianzaiweilaibaohuzijideshangbiaoheqitazhishichanquan、jiaqiangshangbiaodexianzhuxing。danchuyuduiyishuhepinpailishidezunzhong，zheigejianyiquelingyi“wulogo”weiaodechuangyibumenweinan。

lingyifangmian，kuaguoqiyehaishejigengzhangdeguanliliuchenghexinlaiwenti。jinianqian，dangoumeipinpaiyaozaizhongguodaguansishi，tamenwangwanghuigengqingxiangyuxinlaiwaizilvsuo。jishiwaiguolvshibunengzhijiezaizhongguodailisusonghechuting，xuduopinpaiyexihuanzhaowaizilvsuozuoweipinpaihezhongguolvsuozhijiandeqiaoliang，laixiediaohepeihezuozhan。

buguoxianzai，suizheguojihuarencaidezengduo、bentulvsuofulidaiyudetigao，zhishirencaicongwaisuoxiangneisuoliudong，yechuxianleyuelaiyueduomeiguo、riben、deguoqiyezhijiexunzhaobentudingjilvsuodailianjiandeqingkuang。oumeiqiyeyeyouduozhongtujinglaixuanzezaizhongguodedaililvshi，keyixuanzezaibenguoxinrendelvsuopinpaizaizhongguodebangongshi，yekeyishibenguolvshituijiandezhongguolvshi，haikeyitongguowangluojiansuoxuanzelvshi。tamentongchanghuixuanzejijiahouxuanlvsuo，ranhoujinxingbijiao。genjumeigelvsuodebutongzhuanzhangyijikehudejutixuqiu，huizuizhongquedingzuishihetamendelvsuo。

“rujin，shifouyouwaizibeijingbingbushikehuxuanzelvsuozuihexindeyinsu，danshiruguopinpaifanghewaizilvsuodewenhuabeijing、yuyanbeijingyouqihe，neimeyouzhuyuyupinpaifangjianlixinlaihezhangjiudefuwuguanxi。yixiewaizisuoduizhishichanquanqianyanxingdewentiyanjiujiaoduo，zheigezhuanyeyoushishitamenshoudaotoubupinpaiqinglaideyuanyin。”fengzhenxiangjiemianshishangbiaoshi。

因此，内外阻力往往令品牌的诉讼要历经极长的年月。从Ermenegildo Zegna、mujidaoralph lauren，duogezhiminghaiwaipinpaisuoshejideshangbiaoqinquanjiufenanjianjunxianshichuleweiquanshijianzhang、anqingfanfu、yishenershenshibailvjiaogaodengwenti。yixielvshiyebiaoshi，youshijicengfayuanshengchengbaohuminzupinpaierzuochudepanjue，kenengyecanzaleshouhuiwenti，zaochengsusongnanduzengjia。

zaiguoqu，weilezhengqukaituoshichangdeshijian，falvguwenyoushiyehuijianyiqiyeraoguosusong，tongguogoumaiqiangzhushangbiao、genghuangongsizhucemingheshangbiaoxingtaidefangshiqiangduoxinxingshichangdexianfayoushi，danzheiyangzuo，wuyichengweilefangzongqinquanxingweidebangxiong。

“jiuzhishichanquananjianlaishuo，yigepanjuepingjunhaoshi18geyuedao24geyue，qiezheigeshijianhaishishiyongyuanzibijiaoduodefayuan，birubeijingzhishichanquanfayuanhuoshanghaizhishichanquanfayuan。”shangshuanjianzhiqingrenxiangjiemianshishangbiaoshi，“zhongguofanmangdefayuanshenpanshijianhuiyuezhang，danpinpaimenhaishibijiaoxihuanzaibeishangguangqisu，yinweizheixiediqudefaguanxiangduigengyoujingyan。”

如何打赢这场硬仗？

zonghelibi，weiquandaozuqiezhang，tantuduanqilirunhaishitouzizhangyuan，shimeigeshishangpinpaidejingyingzhedouxuyaodianliangdeshi。danduiyuneixiezhengzaizhandoudepinpailaishuo，meiyicixingdongdouyoukenengweihoujizhedahaodiji。

xuduopinpairujindeweiquantaidudougengjiajianding。liruliangpinjihuahebeijingmiantianyouxiangongsideshangbiaozhengduanhaizaijixu，juliangpinjihuaciqianxiangjiemianshishangtigongdeziliaocheng，gaigongsiweilequhui24leishangbiaoquancengyubeijingmiantianfangmianzhankaizhangqisusong。xiangguansusongzai2012niancengbeizuigaorenminfayuanbohui。danmuqianliangfangguanyu“3nianbushiyongshangbiaojikechexiaoqishiyongquan”dexingzhengsusongrengzaijinxingzhong。

yucitongshi，liangpinjihuachengzhuyidaozhongguoshichangneichuxianjin30jiashiyongmujihongseheziti“wuyinliangpin”mentoudedianpu，zaidiaochahoufaxianzheixiedianpusuiranjingyingshitibuyi，danjunweidedaobeijingmiantianfangjiqizigongsibeijingwuyingongsixukededianpu，yinciyikaizhanfalvweiquanxingdong。

xuyaozhuyideshi，pinpaihaiyinggaizhengquerenzhisusongcuozhe。zhengruqianwensuoshuo，gaoyuanfanandeqingkuangbuzaishaoshu，liruguessgongsiyijuqizaifuzhuangdengshangpinshangchimingde“guess” shangbiaoduidisanrenzaibiyuntaodengshangpinshangshenqingzhucede“guess” shangbiaotichuleyiyi，zuizhongzai2017niandizuigaoyuandezaishenchengxuzhongshengsu。

2018nian，dunhillzaiqisupingjiananzhuangpinpaidanhuoli deanjianzhongshengsubinghuode1000wanyuanrenminbidegaoepeichangjin，yeshitoubupinpaidajifangmaozhedeyigejingdiananli。

“dunhillzaishangbiaoqinquansusongzhongtongguozhashidezhengjugongzuohuodeleyuanchaoguoshangbiaoqinquananjianpingjunpeichangedegaoepeichangjin。zheilianggeanzijilingshouxingyepinpaishangdeqishishi，falvgaiyoudeyijingyoule，zhiyaopinpairenjinxinglerenzhen、zhashideanjianzhunbeigongzuo，jiuhuishouhuolianghaodejieguo。”fengzhenshuo。

tatongshiyejianyi，tongleipinpaizhijianyinggaijianlitongmengguanxi，yibangzhuxingyezaizhishichanquanshangxingchenggenggaodexingyegongshi。

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